SmokeShow
04-25-2006, 11:54 AM
I know that racers and pullers lower their torsion bars all the way down for races and pulls. I'm just wondering about getting them back to where they were so your alignment isn't off so bad when you are done? Or will it always end up being a little bit off no matter what and need to be aligned on a machine to get it back to "0."
It seems like RyanU posted one time about marking his threads or using washers as spacers so he gets back to the same position everytime. Anyone do this or have more info on something like that? How about pictures?
Also, is it necessary to lower the torsion bars if you are running tierod sleeves?
Thanks
Slick
04-25-2006, 12:06 PM
Yes even with sleeves you should lower your bars, because you will pop a CV.
SmokeShow
04-25-2006, 12:38 PM
thanks, i figured there was a reason they still lowered them even though they are running sleeves, etc.
Any ideas on marking so you get back to the same place when finished?
C-ya
Slick
04-25-2006, 12:53 PM
Counting the turns has worked for most. IIRC Touch Racing said he was going to make some spacers so he didn't have to count...
Ratlover made a lengthy post about it, I'll see if I can dig it up.
Slick
04-25-2006, 12:59 PM
Copyed from Ratlover:
Before you do anything measure your front end hight on both sideds of the truck. Pick an easy to repeat spot. Bounce the front end a few times.
Jack the nose of the truck all the way up(till the front tires are off the ground) or use the torsion bar unloading tool. Mark the crossmember in the back were you see the end of the torsion bar. The torsion bar will have a line through the diameter of the end. Mark on your fram to that line so you can reindex it when you drop em. A marker, shoepolish(you should have some if your going to the track ;) ) a punch and a hammer if you want it permanent....i've even used a chicks makeup that I was "friendly with" when she went to the track with me and I forgot my marker(quit laughing.....and no she dosnt speak to me anymore :think: ):h ) Take the bolts out. Stick em some place were you wont lose em.
RACE :D
Now.....raise your truck or install the unloading tool. Clean your bolts threads and make sure they arnt covered in grit or sand. Now coat em and the tip in antisieze. Crank the bolts till your at your mark. Now drop your front end, bounce it a few times and measure your hights.
SmokeShow
04-25-2006, 03:22 PM
Thanks, that should help. I'll sneak some nail polish from the misses this evening before I head out. :D
C-ya
Cummin_Stroke_this_Dmax
04-26-2006, 01:00 PM
That's all fine and dandy..... where does everyone jack up the truck from? The front crossmember? The frame rails - doing one side at a time or what? I saw in another post you shouldn't use the crossmember to do this.:confuzeld
Pure Diesel
04-26-2006, 01:03 PM
Don't forget the anti-seize. This helps out alot.
Greg
SIXINAROW
04-29-2006, 06:15 PM
In the video library there is a white chevy thats pullin at indian back in march (the indoor pull) that truck has a lift on it and I know that for sure he does not lower his tor-bar but I don't know what kind of lift he has on it, I have seen that truck run alot of runs and some with alot of wieght in the bed never seen it brake a shaft, but it must have one real bad !ss set up in it.
Rhall
04-30-2006, 02:08 PM
That's all fine and dandy..... where does everyone jack up the truck from? The front crossmember? The frame rails - doing one side at a time or what? I saw in another post you shouldn't use the crossmember to do this.:confuzeld
I always use the crossmember to jack it up, maybe i shouldn't i've never heard anything bad, i do both sides at once.
-Rob-
Same here, I use the cross member, both tires at the same time.
Cummin_Stroke_this_Dmax
05-01-2006, 04:59 PM
Well, that's what we've always done too. In the drivetrain/chassis section one time they told me not to do that because you could tweak that crossmember and affect the alignment.