Im looking for a hydraulic winch......something that will haul 750 lbs up a 45% grade.....Im guessing 6000 lbs should cut it....?

Anyway, I cant seem to find much.....especially for sale. Im not sure about brands, etc.

Is MileMarker a good name in winches? Someone told me they were low end, but I think that the guy is a moron trying to sell me something else.....

Im looking to go hydraulic over electric because Im not sure the tractor electrical system will handle an electric one, and access to the hydraulics shouldnt be too hard.....it will also pull faster (125 feet of line is what Im looking for) and should not heat up like electric.

Tractor hyd system is a 6.4 GMP at 2400 PSI, some of these winches say max 15 GPM, but they dont say minimum......?

Any help is great

Thanks

Try this. http://www.warn.com/

been there.....they dont list prices and they are closed.....

Im kinda trying to find someone thats used them because all of the manufacturers websites dont give comparos.

Just a thought....see what you can find for a simple hyd. orbit motor and rig it up to the gearing you desire. I have know idea what access you may have to agricultural suppliy stores.

As far as electric goes...
I have had a Warn(in theLate 80's) wasn't too impressed with it...My buddies had Ramseys on their trucks and they out pulled my warn easily...Mine was not a planetary though (long flat ones) mine stuck up about 18" and looked like it had a standard starter motor on it...

on edit...I really like that other guys idea about a spare rim...no tire and using an implement to raise the wheels off the ground...once the buggy is at the top set the wheels back down and theres your brake...

Manny,

If you are going to use this winch as a daily production tool, I would stay away from electricly powered winches. The duty cycle of electric winches is normally very low.
If you want to power the winch from your tractor, you are not compelled to use the tractor hydraulics. Several companies make PTO powered hydraulic pumps. That way you can size the pump to match your winch. You can effectively use all of your tractor's PTO horsepower if that is required.

There are several other factors to be considered in choosing a winch.

These are some that I can think of.

1. Drum capacity. Will your drum hold the size and length of cable that you require?

2. Line speed. What line speed do you require? Will the line speed be to great or slow?

3. Duty cycle. Is the winch capable of doing the amount of work required without overheating or breaking down?

4. Weight and size.

5. Parts availability,

6. Vairable speed. Some applications require variable speed control. This is easier to achieve with hydraulic winches.

7. Ability to free wheel. Usually a dog clutch that can be disengaged to allow cable to be pulled off the drum without having to wait for the winch to spool the cable out. Very useful when your truck is sinking fast and the nearest tree is 100 feet away! :eek:

8. Fairleads. This is a necessity for almost any winch, especially when the object being pulled may not be in line with the drum.

9. Levelwind. A very nice (and expensive) addition to a winch. Not all winch manufacturers offer this option.
A levelwind unit automaticlly keeps the cable evenly wound on the drum. A levelwind unit that is properly sized to the winch can increase cable life ten fold.

10. You should do a calculation on how much work will be performed by your winch. Then convert this to horsepower required. A good rule of thumb would be to obtain a winch capable of doing twice what your calculations show. Remember you can slow a fast winch down by using a pulley on the load end. (Snatch Block.)

There are probably many more things to specifying a winch, but that is all that I can come upo with on short notice.

Note:

Try to find a winch that does not incorporate a chain drive between the motor and the winch input shaft. Chain drives are maintenance intensive, subject to dirt contamination and are generally more dangerous than a direct coupled unit.

Years ago I maintained a dredge that used hydraulic winches. They were manufactured by a company called Braden. Braden made industrial winches. I don't know if they are still in business or not. A quick search on Dogpile for industrial winches should show them if they are still in business.

Britt

I am putting a Milemarker hydraulic on my Dmax. Have a PTO drive ramsey 8,000# for sale if you are interested.

Thanks Britt, that was very helpful. Ive suddenly got a lot more research to do......

Mitchagain - PM incoming

RKI makes industrial winches, both hydraulic, electrical, and mechanical:

www.rki-us.com

http://www.rki-us.com/winches_home.shtml



Here is a good info page about winches in general:

http://www.rki-us.com/winches_general.shtml

Manny,

You got mail!

Thanks Mitchagain....Ill be in touch

Im beginning to see a possible problem.......

When I begin picking, Ill have to find a way to get this 150 lb cart down this hill with some sort of control......Is the unwinding process on most winches just a free spin thing? Are electric winches different from hydraulic winches in that respect? In other words, is there a brake?

Thanks again

Manny, with most PTO winches there is a reverse capability, controlled but very slow! Slow as in < 20' per minute.

Hmmm.....

I found this place: winchesplus.com Good prices!

I called and talked to the guy, he has got a few options for sale. A mile marker 5400 lber looks like it will do the trick.....good line speed at 25 FPM....All I need is a valve to cut the pressure from the hyd pump on the tractor.

He said that letting out the cable on a hyd winch is controlled by a valve, you can do it as fast or as slow as you want.....Is that right?

Yep, That's the way I've set mine up. You need a 2 way valve power forward & reverse. Check my links on the previous thread. You could get everything you need at surpluscenter.com. Or check for abandoned service trucks - valve, winch, pump, reservoir, filter, motor & cable. You would be set up to the point of your PTO connection. I would think you could get by with 3/8" winch cable - has oil rope in the center. Use a swivel attachment at the cart or eventually your cable will ball up. Have a load on the cable the first time you roll it up - when you load the winch. Make sure you stack youe cable tightly on the reel. You'll save yourself heartache & aggravation later. You will want a fairly large reservoir so your hydraulic oil doesn't overheat & a cooler isn't a bad Idea. Also choice of hydraulic fluid matters.
You will also be able to adjust how hard your wich pulls. You can adjust the speed with how far you pull the vale handle. I adjusted mine to be compatable with the 5/16 cable I used. I was usually pulling straight up 50-200' & had tp watch that I didn't overload that which I was attached to. The load pick point always had double the line load unless I 2 or 3 part lined it. If you have plenty of speed you might consider 2 part lining for double the power.

one of my friends has a big Milemarker hydraulic winch on his truck, runs off the power steering pump. He loves it...

Manny does your ZF have the PTO option?

Manny I looked at the 5400 unit, and unless I misuderstand your situation, it looks like a fit. Are the trees you are picking in a verticle row on this hillside? I ask because the best fit would be to have a stationary mount on the top of the hill with a snatch block (pulley). Keep the winch down hill with you. Tie it off on a tree after picking your fruit, man the winch, pull the load to the top, have someone unload, then you lower the bucket... you never have to climb the hill. At the end of the job have the winch pull itself to the hill top. :ro)

Or something else. :rolleyes:

That place sells the 5400 unit w/o the gas engine......Ide buy either that or the 9k mile marker.....the only real differences are the weight capacity and the speed.....I wont come close to maxing either out on weight, so I need to decide speed.

Either way, it will be mounted to the tractors frame.

OH, I definetly have climb the hill no matter what winch I get......:D

Personally, I would go with a winch that was made for doing what you are talking about on a day-in, day-out basis, rather than adapt a vehicle recovery winch to work. It may be just fine, but why not get one that is more suited for your application? It would probably be cheaper, anyways.


But to answer your question about the electric winches, mine unspools at the same rate that it spools (doesn't free-spool) and it has a brake to stop it wherever you quit letting it out.

I looked into that......and from that I found, they were more expensive.

I am trying to figure out how to get the hydraulics to the winch now......all of the tractors hyd ports are used with the FEL.....Ide rather not have to disconnect the FEL to plug in the winch because I may be using them in tandem.

You could add a pto mount pump. I have a friend that runs his carriage augers this way. He has quick couplers to the tank & motor.

I am planning to set up a motor & pump with quick couplers to my winch so I can run it off a tractor or anchor the winch & run it off the motor.

Actually you can't get a much better winch than those used on the boom trucks. My winches have all had auto brakes. Including the tow truck winches I used. The most I've spent setting one up is about $450 -not including the cable- & I had to buy a PTO to run the pump for the 81 ford I installed it on. If you could find a retired truck you wouldn't have to figure anything out. It's a matched system aready. I don't know how hard these are to find these days. With the price of scrap, they might be going away as fast as they come in.

I usually get my cable & chain producs from Fehr bros, Industries.
www.fehr.com
Remember to use cable with an oil rope center.

Even if you use a 2 part line use a swivel at the end of the cable. A ball bearing swivel works best. Simple swivels can bind up under a load.

"Years ago I maintained a dredge that used hydraulic winches. They were manufactured by a company called Braden. Braden made industrial winches. I don't know if they are still in business or not. A quick search on Dogpile for industrial winches should show them if they are still in business."
Britt

These are the same orbital winches they use on the boom trucks. I would think these winches would be well oversized for your purpose. Thus making them more versatile for other uses.

The hydraulic valves I used regulated the cable speed. The farthur you pulled the lever the faster the cable speed. I set them up so pulling was taking cable in & pushing let the cable out.

I'm curious about how you will control the cart on descent. What will keep the cart from veering off course?
You could locate a retired factory buggy -kind of like a golf cart on steroids- & mount the winch on it, putting the valve by the steering wheel. If you wanted you could even make the valve foot controled so you had 2 hands to steer. You could use a 2 lever valve so you had one handle for forward & one for reverse. If you found a running machine you could power the pump off the carts engine. Many are 20hp or bigger. & some already have a tow hitch. Or make a stand alone frame attached with brackets with quick pins so you could take the winch off & use it for other purposes. I would make the frame such that you could also hook it to your 3 point. This way you could steer the cart up & down the hill. Some of the carts even have ROP's or you could add a roll cage if roll over is a worry. This would also free up your tractor if you had an anchor up top. Something you could always install - a piece of pipe & some concrete.
I intend on using my winch to pull trees from the river. I'll make a bracket to put it in the loader bucket. If I need more brakes I can stick the hoe in the ground.