I tried hooking an Autometer Phanthom pyrometer to a Banks Ottomind PN62901 ser#01917. The meter won't read temp. I called Banks, was told the Ottomind converts the pyro sensor to a signal not understood by the Autometer pyro. Banks fix is to purchase a Banks Pyro for over $110. Does anyone know how to make this work?? Yes I had the wires hooked up correctly. They are red/tellow out of the Banks tuner to red/yellow on the Autometer gauge. I also tried hooking the Autometer gauge to the pyro probe wires where the probe wires enter the Banks Tuner. I actually had Banks and Autometer using same probe signal. When I did this the gauge works and the tuner seems to function. The gauge read 2000 degrees at idle in the drive. Is there any reason why this wouldn't work???

Autometer gauges dont know how to cuss and swear at junk...
LMAO

Autometer gauges dont know how to cuss and swear at junk...
LMAO
What a way to help out on a question. And you're a vendor?-:t

Autometer gauges dont know how to cuss and swear at junk...
LMAO



That is down right funny ! BUT VERY TRUE!!!!!! and sometimes the truth hurts!

On my OTTO Mind, the pyro goes from the ex. manifold to the box and then from the box to the guage. I'm thinking there is additional resistence between the Banks box and the Banks guage. This can be done either through a resistor or through the wires themselves. That is the only reason for a guage to read 2000 degrees, unless of course you're runnin' 1200 rwhp tune on "kill", pulling a 15,000 lb trailer, up the side of 6% grade for 20 miles. If you could find out what type of signal, amplitude, voltage, etc. is coming from the Banks box you may be able to make it work. But, the truth is if a vendor makes a product proprietary then that forces the customer to buy only their products....compaq computers were notorious for that, anyways, you might call Banks again and ask to speak to a technician instead of the sales staff. If you can get some idea what is coming out of the box you may be able to make the Autometer guage work. Good luck man and post if you find a solution....or even if you don't.
JP

What a way to help out on a question. And you're a vendor?-:tmy appologies Gale.:o:

Best fix for it is get rid of the Banks, get something better.

Small world I grew up in Princeton, IN. What is a realistic temp for the truck at idle??? I have no experience with a pyro. I did talk to a tech at Banks. I don't remember which way this went. I think he said a Banks gauge works on a microvolt and the Autometer gauge works on a millivolt. If that is correct I don't know of a way to boost the strength. This kind of makes sense. When I connect the Autometer gauge to the Banks ottomind the needle only moves a very little.

Small world I grew up in Princeton, IN. What is a realistic temp for the truck at idle??? I have no experience with a pyro. I did talk to a tech at Banks. I don't remember which way this went. I think he said a Banks gauge works on a microvolt and the Autometer gauge works on a millivolt. If that is correct I don't know of a way to boost the strength. This kind of makes sense. When I connect the Autometer gauge to the Banks ottomind the needle only moves a very little.
You have a PM reply.
My '01 idles, after sitting a for a few seconds, at an EGT temp of round 250 - 300*, and I have the Banks guages and OTTO Mind. Boosting the strength of the signal voltage would be some work and may not be accurate if you did. Better off finding a correct guage.
JP