I'm going to crank my torsion bars between 1"-1 1/2" and was wondering what Bilstein shock part number you were using. I have Bilsteins 5100s in the rear and would like to run them in the front as well. Thanks.

When I cranked my Tbars up 2 inches I ordered my Bilstiens from DPS and John said I needed the 2 inch extended front shock , no spacer just a longer shock. ;)

Anyone? Currently, I have them cranked 1", but may go another 1/2".

Does anyone have the BE5-C154-TO that cjsho recommended?

Stock length is long enough.

teamx, what is the part number on your front shocks? Are they the 5100 series zinc plated?

Cheyenne19, you say stock length Bilstein is long enough, how do you figure when I've read people claim that the stock/factory shock bottoms out as its too short?

cjsho, the part number you listed in the beginning of the thread, is that a zinc plated shock? You state to take advice from those with the experience, just curious, but have you personally used the shock you suggested? I'm not doubting you, I just wana make sure I get the right shock.

Cheyenne19, you state that you can make contact on the bumpstops with the upper control arm using the Bilsteins, what bumpstop are you referring to because the only one I see is above the lower control arm.

Also, the bumpstop that is closest to the top of the BOTTOM lower control arm, mine is VERY close to each other. Is this normal or is it because I cranked my torsion bars 1"? Do I need to remove the bumpstop or get shorter ones? Again, I'm thinking of cranking them another 1/2".

Lastly, you state that the stock replacement Bilstein has more travel than the stock shock, does it have enough for a truck that has been lifted with the torsion bars 1"-2"?

THe factory shocks do bottom out, but the bilsteins have a longer travel the the stock ones do. I've put on two sets, different trucks, so i guess i don't have that much experience. However, in both instances with the bilsteins on we could get the upper control arm to contact the bumpstop. To me, that meant that the bumpstop was limiting travel, not the shock. This might not be true for everyone. I'm also going by what Kennedy claims.

The std length Bilsteins are all a guy needs. If you are realy worried, I have a pair of aluminum shaft spacers available.

Kennedy, what is the part number for the Bilstein 5100 series stock replacement shock that you sell? Just wana see if its the same/different than the one posted.

I do not sell the 5100's...

I'm not trying to stir the pot or get in an argument. I'm just stating what i've seen work. If you look at the upper ca where it mounts to the frame, you can see a tab under it. I believe it is under the rear mount. It is steel. When the upper ca maxes out it contacts that stop. John Kennedy's bilsteins are the ones i'm using.
on edit, my t-bars are turned up all the way

Kennedy sells the OEM replacement shocks. They are of the yellow/blue color variety. I was hard on about the 5100 series until I starting putting my mind to the issue. If you think about it, pushing the wheels down 2" does not actually translate to 2" in extra extension on the shocks. Think of it like a lever, the shocks are closer to pivot than the wheels. Thus, they do not get extened by 2" when you crank the t-bars. It's more like less than a 1/3 of the 2" and not even a factor on the standard bilstein shock position when you consider manufacturing tolerances. I run the blue/yellow kind and they work AWESOME. The stock shocks are crap, but everyone has already heard that.

One final thought, I was wanting to suggest that people consider the differences between the yellow/blues vs the 5100's (i.e. the ones sold through ORU) in terms of valving instead of length. I could not locate the valving info, but I know I have seen it before. If someone would step in and explain that the "x" type of shock will ride softer and the "y" type of shock will ride stiffer, it might help solve the delima between using the yellow/blues vs the 5100's since the additional length is not actually needed (as an engineer, I feel safe that I can concude that this is true based on the physics of the problem and a basic understanding of mechanics).

06DMAX00CAMSS
Yes it's a down travel stop.

zinc plated 5100's I had purchased from ORU will post the pn tonight...

teamx, I just need the front shock part number, thanks.

I wanted to run Bilstein 5100s to match my rear shocks. Kennedy doesn't sell them, so I guess I'll go through ORU. ORU lists them for $160 a pair and Kennedy lists a set of 4 for $270. So that's $67.50 a shock compare to $80 a shock. Are the 5100 series shocks more expensive than the "regular" blue/yellow Bilsteins? What's the difference between them anyway?

I just installed a set of bilsteins in the front. This is the part # on the box. F4-BE5-C154-TO. Hope this helps.

Here is what I have
Rears F4 BE5 6682 H5
Front F4 BE5 C154 To

By the way they are for sale $175 for all 4 plus shipping...

Back to the original question: What Bilstein shock part # are you using with cranked torsion bars 1"-2"?

00-04 HD Model; HD Front = BE5-6081-H0 . . . Rear = BE5-6082-H0 (yellow & blue)

I just put these on my truck yesterday & they're just Great !

My understanding is that you don't need the 5100s unless you have a lift and/or doing serious off-roading

I called Bilstein directly when I was first looking for them and talked to their tech support department. Bilstein does not make a shock for the 2500 that is 1-2" longer than stock. Bilstein does provide ORU with the shock casings and components and ORU builds the shock and the part number is ORU specific. Not sure if this helps or creates more confussion.

You don't need a 1-2" longer shock. With our 1/2" spacer, the std front shock will be able to travel far enough to let the upper a-arm ping on the mechanical stop.

Is the spacer needed? Either way, you don't sell the 5100 series shocks which are zinc plated and that's what I'm looking for as that's what I have in the rear and I want them to match.

I sell the properly spec'd OEM replacement yellows. In the future, (fall 2006?) there will be a Bilstein 5100 for this application that is just a fudge longer, and we'll likely carry this one when released. The key is, it's not a Ford application that happens to fit and match fairly closely...

Is the spacer needed? Either way, you don't sell the 5100 series shocks which are zinc plated and that's what I'm looking for as that's what I have in the rear and I want them to match.

Did you end up finding the 5100 Bilsteins for the front? If so, who did you get them from?

Standard length bilsteins work fine. How many other ways can i say that?

I want the look of the 5100's. They look better than those yellow/blue on my black/chrome truck