This is an area of deep concern after seeing how hard JJ's flywhhel pressed onto the crankshaft. I had him draw it down evenly with a small ratchet prior to beginning with my torque wrench at 80 lb/ft. I must have clicked off 80lb/ft in 10-20 or more pairs in a cross pattern before it even got snug. Each time that I switched pairs, the alternate bolt pairs all showed gaps after torquing. It finally slowed down, byt if memory serves, I went to 120 lb/ft and then 140 and it was still moving after numerous pairs. I finally hit it at 150 lb/ft and it seemed to stop moving.

Knowing how hard it went on, I surely never want to remove it, but fear for the guy who may have to do this if/when the bronze wears out.

And yes we cleaned/wiped the hub prior to install. The OE unit rocked/pried off with a pry bar...

Sawsall and a torch, its junk anyway if you need to R&R it right? :D :grd:

:joke:......good observation though

good question? but the fly wheel is rebuildable (new lining) if you can get it off!!!!!

The one i did was the same way.....

Would it be unreasonable to machine the center opening bigger by .00025"?

Would heating the flywheel in an oven prior to install help?

What about heating the flywheel with a torch to remove it?

Just my .02 this morning.

Evan I sent you a PM on a clutch.

Phil

Would it be unreasonable to machine the center opening bigger by .00025"?

Would heating the flywheel in an oven prior to install help?

What about heating the flywheel with a torch to remove it?

Just my .02 this morning.



Those are good, logical ideas but the fact is the flywheel pilot should be sized properly to start with. It goes on NASTY hard and I don't expect it to be anywhere near reasonable when removing even with heat. The flywheel is a lot of mass to get heated up, especially w/o hurting it or something else. In our case, JJ's truck had to be rolling or I'd have had him send it back and considered putting one of Mac's units on.

If it performs as it should, it should never need to be removed again during JJ's ownership, maybe longer.

DmaxCC6spd is right on with the heat. Heating up around the hub area with a propane torch would do it (not cherry red though). I had to do this on the flexplate to get it off. It should be opened just a smidge however (maybe .001 or so). This small amount won't do any harm.

Has anyone talked to southbend? Why is it this tight and is it supposed to be?

I did not purchase or sell the unit. I figure the Master Distributor would look into it.

DmaxCC6spd is right on with the heat. Heating up around the hub area with a propane torch would do it (not cherry red though). I had to do this on the flexplate to get it off. It should be opened just a smidge however (maybe .001 or so). This small amount won't do any harm.

Well, if you're trying to get that flywheel off the crank hub, that small amount might make all the difference in the world.

Your right on partsguy. .0005 might still be a bit snug, but .001 would be way better. Expecially if grit gets between it and the hub. I deal with this daily. It can be a real pain some times. The final goal is slip fit with no play (in a perfect world).

Your right on partsguy. .0005 might still be a bit snug, but .001 would be way better. Expecially if grit gets between it and the hub. I deal with this daily. It can be a real pain some times. The final goal is slip fit with no play (in a perfect world).

So, the question is, will the machinist be informed about this so this problem will be fixed?

I had no issues removing the test kit the 3 times we did it during R&D with a prybar. They are tight but I prefer that to wobbling on the crank! We have talked to Peter about it and it is plausible to be a problem of the variances in the cranks GM builds than the finely tuned piece of billet steel they are turning out. They are looking into it so you all want to send him a few of your cranks for measurement...probably only need a 100 or so for comparison...ha ha!! If it is tight, a little sanding on the inside will take care of it.

Mine wasn't real bad. I ran mine tight with a long throw 3/8" ratchet and then torqued it. I did use just a little white break-in grease on crank because I remembered that Deadeye posted that it would be a tight fit. I too would rather a tighter fit to a looser one. I have had the trans. out of my truck enough times and the next time I have to pull it it'll get traded in. No more than I do I figure the truck will die before the clutch which is a good feeling not haveing to worry about the DMF anymore!

The OE came off with a bit of persuasion with a prybar. I don't see this one coming off with anything other than some form of a puller and/or major heat.

As I stated above this is the 3rd one in my truck so they must come off?? Had no problems with taking the previous 2 out...no heat, no tool...just some persuasion with a bar. I don't plan on taking this one out for while...so we'll see when it comes time I guess.

Just talked with Peter and it looks like the hole was about 5 thousands too small and the problem has been addressed and fixed. So from now on you shouldn't have to worry about getting the flywheel on or off, it should go on and off as smooth as butter.

Hope this helps out,
Wade

Good Deal,Thanx

Wade, was the hole .005" too small or .0005" too small? 5 thousandths seems like it wouldn't go on at all. Just curious.

Wade, was the hole .005" too small or .0005" too small? 5 thousandths seems like it wouldn't go on at all. Just curious.

I was told from Peter 5 thousandths, he may have been mistaken but I'm just relaying information, I didn't personally discover this so I'm not sure if it's correct or not.

Wade, was the hole .005" too small or .0005" too small? 5 thousandths seems like it wouldn't go on at all. Just curious.


ya .005 sounds like alot. .001 would be really tight.

Suffice to say, I hope to never have to remove it as it will NOT be fun...

Suffice to say, I hope to never have to remove it as it will NOT be fun...

Actually, watching JJ try to take it off should be a barrel of laughs John...):h

Actually, watching JJ try to take it off should be a barrel of laughs John...):h

:funnypost ..................:iamwithst

Actually, watching JJ try to take it off should be a barrel of laughs John...):h

Looks like I found a new use for that Pilot tool :eek: :eek: :lol: :lol:

I had to remove several last fall during testing and examination of the original prototype flywheel. Yes they were very tight to get on. They were removed by using prybars. Some of the DMFs that I had to remove were just as tough to remove as well. Since SBC has opend the crankshaft hub by .003" (that is what I was told) it should be easier for both install and removing, if/when necessary.

Wouldnt using prybars bee extremely hard on the thrust bearings?? i would think a strongback would be safer than risking takin out the thrust bearings with prybars.

i woulden think thats its any harder on the thrust bearing than the amount of force used everytime u push in the clutch!!!!!!!!

I had to remove several last fall during testing and examination of the original prototype flywheel. Yes they were very tight to get on. They were removed by using prybars. Some of the DMFs that I had to remove were just as tough to remove as well. Since SBC has opend the crankshaft hub by .003" (that is what I was told) it should be easier for both install and removing, if/when necessary.

The press fit on the unit in question will not come off with a prybar. Apparently the prototypes were built right and the first production ones were not.

glad i have an alli