Ok so me and some of my friends were junkyarding at this hillbilly junkyard in upstate New York this weekend and man did we score big.

ready for this?

perfect Dana 60 off a K30 Chevy.....100 bucks
perfect Dana 44.....75 bucks
perfect divorced NP205....50 bucks
driveshaft for the divorced NP205....20 bucks

oh but thats not even the best part.

good condition running 4,000 pound capacity propane powered HYSTER FORKLIFT!!!! 200 bucks DELIVERD!!!! (the school shop is about 35 minutes away from the junkyard)

It was dropped off at the junkyard over the winter, it ran perfectly when dropped off. Hydraulic fluid looks great, hoses perfect (not cracked), just has a lot of paint rubbed off and the seat is kinda crappy. However we do need a propane cylinder for it. We need some fittings too...I guess it has the old style propane fittings. Hopefully we'll get it running today, we already have a stereo and big speakers to install on it, and we're gonna drive it all around campus blasting tunes, just cause it will be really funny ):h ....of course we'll also use it at the shop as an engine hoist, flexing out trucks, moving crap around..

anyway...I still cant get over the deals we scored..im so excited! Does anyone know anything about these Hyster propane fork lifts? Anything about maintinence or problems with them? Being propane powered, I assume the engine is in good condition. It has 900 hours on it, oil looked great.

Ben

I wonder if the forklift will fall off the tahoe's tailgate too..:think: ):h

I know a bit about propane powered forklifts but can't comment on maintenace as it leaked so much oil that it got an oil change about every month and a half. The engine will be good but I would check the coolant to see if any oil is in at just incase.

Anyways nice find.

Ben slow down!


Dude these things flip easy so be careful! :D

ah we got the flipping part coverd. Its got ROPS and a seatbelt!! :D

Don't talk to me about working maintaining fork-lifts.

Clarks
Pettibone Mecury
Yales
Cats
Hysters

Had them all and my mitts on everyone -:t

All LP converted with Hot Shot distributors.I'll give advice but NO wrenching service!

I wonder if the forklift will fall off the tahoe's tailgate too..:think: ):h

If he gets it up there, the tailgate will fall off ):h

Jim

Do you know if the engine is a GM 6Cyl? also what model is it?

Most likely a Continental flathead 4 banger.Very common engine

Some later Cats had Mit's in them

Its a Hyster something or other. Its orange with a black ROPS. Not Hyster yellow...maybe repainted?? I didnt look at what model, I should have...it was supposed to be here today but looks lik Wednesday now. Its a flat head 4 banger. Maybe 1.0-1.7 liters of displacment??? Liquid cooled. Carbed, distributer ignition, has about 900 hours on it...

Ben

Either a continental or hercules motor I would say

you got a damn good deal. i work for a world wide rental company and any warehouse fork lift with 900 hours is like new. we just sold a hyster with like three thousand hours for like eight thousand dollars. so you got a good deal.

if i were you i would see if it also has a gas tank on it cause they run much better off fuel. as far as services the rule of thumb is every 300 hours for oil and fuel. every 1000 hours for hydraulic.

be careful cause they do tip easily and you could bend the boom(seen it happen). especially if you are driving around campus.

I think its only propane... can you convert them to gas?? :confused:

thanks for the info everyone!!!

I think its only propane... can you convert them to gas?? :confused:

thanks for the info everyone!!!

Most trucks come gas,tank is probably there.

Need to change whole fuel system. Propane is easy to come by.Just go to a commercial supplier for the tank.

look to see if the system is already set up, most come with both systems ready. they usually have a switch by the motor for "lpg or gas".

I would think that the hour meter has turned over once so it may have already done like 10000 hours, 900 hours is too little just to dump in a junkyard.

there hour meter has 5 digits, so I dont think it rolled over..never know tho!

I would think that the hour meter has turned over once so it may have already done like 10000 hours, 900 hours is too little just to dump in a junkyard.

Think about it..most forklifts are run for what, 5 minutes at a time? 900 hours is a ton when you look at it that way..

Think about it..most forklifts are run for what, 5 minutes at a time? 900 hours is a ton when you look at it that way..

I don't know Scott. If they are used a napa store to get fuses off the top shelf yeah, but in a wherehouse they might be used the whole shift. Just
depends.

Jim

Its a Hyster something or other. Its orange with a black ROPS. Not Hyster yellow...maybe repainted?? I didnt look at what model, I should have...it was supposed to be here today but looks lik Wednesday now. Its a flat head 4 banger. Maybe 1.0-1.7 liters of displacment??? Liquid cooled. Carbed, distributer ignition, has about 900 hours on it...

Ben

$200 may not be such a good deal if it never shows up.....):h

I drive a hyster at work, things are nice, ours has around 1100 hours IIRC, runs good only problems we have had with it are a radiator leak and a hydraulic leak. Works great, and believe me we put it through its paces, It does the two wheel a lot.:D Then i'll have to break out the Heli with the inline 6 diesel, my favorite.
Hysters are good though at least in my experience.

Think about it..most forklifts are run for what, 5 minutes at a time? 900 hours is a ton when you look at it that way..

trust me.. you might think 900 hours is alot but for a warehouse fork lift its nothin.;) if we get fork lifts back with 2500 hours theyre consider to be used little. if it had 10000 hours it wouldnt be running right now. they just dont last that long:D .

does the fork lift have any rental markings on it or a tag by the steering wheel that says the year? this will give you a better idea of what youve got.

trust me.. you might think 900 hours is alot but for a warehouse fork lift its nothin.;) if we get fork lifts back with 2500 hours theyre consider to be used little. if it had 10000 hours it wouldnt be running right now. they just dont last that long:D .

does the fork lift have any rental markings on it or a tag by the steering wheel that says the year? this will give you a better idea of what youve got.

Who says it was a warehouse forklift? If it has air filled tires, its likely not a warehouse machine. Most warehouse machines are hard rubber tires....

it has solid tires, not pneumatic tires.

even if it has pneumatic tires it is still most likely a warehouse fork lift. they dont make reach forks that small. a lot of people actually prefer the bigger tires so they can take them out side and not get stuck on a pebble...

Sounds like it needs a programmer and a 150 shot of laugh gas...:muahaha:

:funnypost :iamwithst

that would be fun ):h

:funnypost :iamwithst

that would be fun ):h Who you callin' stupid?:boxing:

Sounds like it needs a programmer and a 150 shot of laugh gas...:muahaha:

Don't forget this is Ben, he has experience with BD turbo installs now as well. I am sure he wouldn't mind doing another install for the forklift team.

:muahaha: Maybe it'll be the first forklift to smoke a powerjoke...

unless you like your teeth rattled out of your jaw, I would leave it in the shop. THose solid tires dont offer much cushioning. And if it doesnt have a roll cage (depending on how old) be very careful. If it has a roll cage adn it starts to tip, dont jump off keep your hands onthe wheel and pray to God you remembered to buckle up.

yes, luckilly it has ROPS. I always buckle up ;)

I'd like some more info on dual LPG/Gas complete at a flick of a switch systems myself.

Who you callin' stupid?:boxing:

haha bring it!!:badidea:

:joke:

haha bring it!!:badidea:

:joke: Look out your window..Thats me.You got any beer?;)

Look out your window..Thats me.You got any beer?;)

drinkin one right now;)

Hysters are good fork trucks- super easy to find parts for. All hyd cylinders and fittings are standard sizes- no metric b.s. Tilt and steering cyls are the ones that will leak... should never have to mess with the mast. They're simple to re-pack with new rod and piston u-seals. (I worked for an industrial seal distributor in college and saw my fair share of forklift jockeys).

My father has got 4 of them in his cabbage storage... XM50 and 60's.... The oldest one(i think its mid90s) has got somewhere in the range of 17-18,000 hrs on it, put new gm3.0 engine in it last yr... The next one got a new engine this past fall w/i think 11000 hrs on it.. Other 2 are still original w/7-10,000 hrs on them...
Off the top of my head i cant think of any major problmes weve ever had w/them, and they are WELL abused. They get backed into walls, driven outside in the mud, down the rd, rarely lifts anything under 1000lbs... It usually gets fully service every month tho, and never miss a beat. If you plan on doing amt of drivin on unsmooth ground and high speeds, do your self a favor and get rid of the solid rubber tires. We have ours filled w/fix a flat stuff due to working w/wood boxs/pallets and the ride is night and day...
For parts, look up Liftech in Syracuse. There might be one closer in Watertown but i dont know. Syracuse seems to be the warehouse location tho... Hope it helps
You guys that are flipping these things or close to, must be doing some outrageous stuff...Ive never come closed, and safety is usually the last thing on my mind... I have managed to get the rear end of the ground pretty good when lifting...

My father has got 4 of them in his cabbage storage... XM50 and 60's.... The oldest one(i think its mid90s) has got somewhere in the range of 17-18,000 hrs on it, put new gm3.0 engine in it last yr... The next one got a new engine this past fall w/i think 11000 hrs on it.. Other 2 are still original w/7-10,000 hrs on them...
Off the top of my head i cant think of any major problmes weve ever had w/them, and they are WELL abused. They get backed into walls, driven outside in the mud, down the rd, rarely lifts anything under 1000lbs... It usually gets fully service every month tho, and never miss a beat. If you plan on doing amt of drivin on unsmooth ground and high speeds, do your self a favor and get rid of the solid rubber tires. We have ours filled w/fix a flat stuff due to working w/wood boxs/pallets and the ride is night and day...
For parts, look up Liftech in Syracuse. There might be one closer in Watertown but i dont know. Syracuse seems to be the warehouse location tho... Hope it helps
You guys that are flipping these things or close to, must be doing some outrageous stuff...Ive never come closed, and safety is usually the last thing on my mind... I have managed to get the rear end of the ground pretty good when lifting...
Foam filled are the way to go

Foam filled are the way to go

Thats what i meant to say, had a brainfart..

I'd like some more info on dual LPG/Gas complete at a flick of a switch systems myself.

Well ??

Well ??

im not exactly sure how this system works but if you give me till monday we have one down at the shop and i could give you more info on it

Well did they ever deliver the thing????

no, i havent had one come in until today. im still trying to find time to look at how it works. if i figure it out ill let ya know...

Well did they ever deliver the thing????

NO!!!! The Censored stupid idiot hasnt delivered it yet. We've gone up at least 13-15 times to the junkyard and his house/trailer. Hes NEVER there. Wife always says hes out on deliveries. We asked for his phone number but she gave us a totally BS number. Many of the times his sons or "employees" are crawling around the mess of a junkyard, but they never know where he is or when he'll be back. We took tow straps out there and talked to one of his "employees". We said "well we'll try to pull it out and move it ourselves so its ready to be picked up" and the guy all of a sudden got all nervous "uhhh pick what up??". "the forklift that we bought 4 weeks ago and was supposed to be delivered the next day". "ohh uhhh ummm...ill have Joe call you to schedule a delivery". "we're just gonna try to move it ourselves and pull it out to the road side". The dude kinda chuckles and says "well what're ya gonna move it with?". "the truck" (pointing to the dmax). "that black truck?". "yeah, the black truck". He laughs with a sigh of releif..."ohh you aint gonna move it for **** with that!!"

frikkin stupid back country fool. We paid 200 bucks for it, and for all intents and purposes, the guy robbed us. Now we have to leave for summer next week and I bet you we're never gonna see that damn forklift. My friends and I are so mad. We're going up once more and then trying the police for help. We NEED to get it by the 12th. We have exhasted every option, and the guy is either never around or is avoiding us. Its rediculous, we want that damn thing NOW.Censored :rant:

$200 may not be such a good deal if it never shows up.....):h

Ahem.....:p: some things are just to good to be true.....:(

If ya can't take it with you on the same day you buy it, don't buy it....;)

NO!!!! The Censored stupid idiot hasnt delivered it yet. We've gone up at least 13-15 times to the junkyard and his house/trailer. Hes NEVER there. Wife always says hes out on deliveries. We asked for his phone number but she gave us a totally BS number. Many of the times his sons or "employees" are crawling around the mess of a junkyard, but they never know where he is or when he'll be back. We took tow straps out there and talked to one of his "employees". We said "well we'll try to pull it out and move it ourselves so its ready to be picked up" and the guy all of a sudden got all nervous "uhhh pick what up??". "the forklift that we bought 4 weeks ago and was supposed to be delivered the next day". "ohh uhhh ummm...ill have Joe call you to schedule a delivery". "we're just gonna try to move it ourselves and pull it out to the road side". The dude kinda chuckles and says "well what're ya gonna move it with?". "the truck" (pointing to the dmax). "that black truck?". "yeah, the black truck". He laughs with a sigh of releif..."ohh you aint gonna move it for **** with that!!"

frikkin stupid back country fool. We paid 200 bucks for it, and for all intents and purposes, the guy robbed us. Now we have to leave for summer next week and I bet you we're never gonna see that damn forklift. My friends and I are so mad. We're going up once more and then trying the police for help. We NEED to get it by the 12th. We have exhasted every option, and the guy is either never around or is avoiding us. Its rediculous, we want that damn thing NOW.Censored :rant:


haha what a dumbass, i move those things almost everyday. im sure a dmax with all your mods can handle one):h

If you really want the fork lift that bad, you might be better off sending a flat bed wrecker for it. It may cost you another $50.00 but at least you would have the fork lift.

no, i havent had one come in until today. im still trying to find time to look at how it works. if i figure it out ill let ya know...

From what I've seen the whole fuel delivery system is converted to LP and the Petro is disabled.

I could be wrong but I have seen many fork-lifts,never dual fuel. :confused:

From what I've seen the whole fuel delivery system is converted to LP and the Petro is disabled.

I could be wrong but I have seen many fork-lifts,never dual fuel. :confused:

all of ours are dual fuel, simply flip the switch, crank it over and away you go...:ro)

So has it shown up? does it run? Start it up and drive it down the road to school, it isnt to far to school if IIRC.

theres no propane tank on it so we cant start it up...we still ahve to get it from the guy.

You better either go load it up and get it yourself or get your money back. Doesn't someone around there have a flat trailer you can use.

We have a Hyster 80 at work..powered by a GM 6Cyl...propane. dual front solid rubber tires...the ride isnt too bad on the gravel areas of the lumber yard. It has 150hours on it I believe.:ro)

Ben, have you gotten the police involved yet?

we got the forklift. The guy finally delivered it!!

we threw a battery charger on it (no idea if the battery was good or not) for a couple hours and cranked it over. Starter made a grinding noise, we hit it twice with a hammer, and it spun the motor over. We didnt have a propane cylinder so we just sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body (propane; no carb) and cranked it over....within 2 seconds of cranking it fired right up!! I swear that darn thing was the smoothest running little engine ive ever heard. Cant even hear it running its so quiet and smooth. Runs like a top. So for 200 bucks, we literally got a 'turn key' forklift. Total investment from us to get it running was 2 hours of our time (to charge the battery) and 40 bucks for a full propane cylinder!

can any of you guys beat that deal??? :D

:nopics:

So what are you gonna use it for now :lol:

flexing out trucks, to determine correct shock lengths, and engine hoisting...and finally swaping bens frame/engine with mine:ro) ive always wanted a BD

:ro)

heres pics

ide say it has a few more than 900 hours on it but still a good deal:ro) . looks like you just drove it out of that durango;) .

no lets see what you can get it to do in the 1/4 mile:eek:

for 200 bucks delivered im not complaining about the paint :D

ide say you got a good deal. ive seen ones in worse shape go for about 6-7 grand:eek:

personally i wouldnt feel bad about blowin the motor with nitrous or other fun toys for that price:ro)

$200 !!?? For that price it could look like a giant dog turd and if it ran, it'd be one heck of a deal.
You just CAN'T go wrong for that price.
Good for you!

thats a steal! awesome...you're lucky :)

it KINDA has a slight lifter knock or something clatter. Rod bearing?

it only has 1,000 hours on it. I took it all apart and went thru it last night....man what a cool little design. It has a torque converter transmission!!! :eek: Think Mike L. has a Suncoast triple disc availible for it? ):h I thought that was really cool...I just assumed it was some hydrostatic setup. Pulled the engine oil cover off, no blowby or anything. Just quietly goes "clack clack clack" and its consistent with rpm. Sounds like its coming from the vaLve train..im gonna pull the rocker cover today... When you rev it, it seems to completely go away for a split second on DFCO (defuel cutoff), like when you let off the throttle and the motor coasts back down to idle.

Otherwise it runs like a top, needs an oil change and top off of fluids, and new tranny and engine oil filters....anyone know where I could get those? Hyster S40xl forklift, 4 cylinder (dont know mfg) propane engine. Anyone know anything about propane setups? It has some wierd things on the engine, and I dont know anything about propane engines. Has some wierd propane regulator with coolant running thru it, and also has a MAP sensor of some sort :confused:. I dunno its just some little disc thing (like a pressure sensor) thats attached to the intake manifold with a little pipe...has two wires going to it. I also need an electrical schematic...lots of wires were cut or not connected, tranny temp sensor light, oil press sensor light, vacuum advance for the distributer (could that cause teh knock? I havent checked timing), and some other mystery wires. The NSBU switch actually was hooked up and works too! Looks like someone took it off roading, the oil pan is dented to crap. Hydraulics are nice and fast, even at idle, steering is perfect, and the tranny works like a dream. Brakes are a little funky, but the fluid was low in the master cylinder, so I topped it off.... anyone know what oil for a propane motor? I assume just some 10-30...ill throw that in there.

ben

should be same oil as regular motor. basically everything is similar as a gas motor just runs off propane instead of gas. i would check timing, that could be causing knock, since you let off and it goes away it.

as far as sensors go, im not a mechanic on these just been around alot of them in my line of work. sounds like you got a screamin deal. hope you get everything workin right. good luck

changed the oil....friggin thing is a camel! Took almost 5 quarts! For a little 4 cylinder...still dont know what kinda motor.... inline 4, liquid cooled, propane, overhead valve, 2 valves per cylinder. Strangely the pushrod tubes are separate of the cylinders/block. (like theyre visible from the out side of the motor) I see this on air cooled motors but I dont think ive seen a liquid cooled engine with these external pushrod tubes....

its gonna be sweet when we get it all fixed up...we stripped it down and are going to paint it gloss black with a silver stripe on the side....we already installed lights and im looking for a blue police car style rotating light to put on top...we also installed a big old AHHH-OOOOOH-GAH horn on the rollbar, facing forward....im telling you guys....this thing is gonna be BLING. I re did the whole wiring harness but theres still some mystery wires from oddball propane components on the engine (what looks like a map sensor thing? i dunno...). Needs a tranny filter and engine oil filter...not sure where to find one. I pulled off the inspection plates and checked out the torque converter. Its pretty cool, and big too!!! Its easilly the size of a 4L60 TC, maybe a bit bigger. We also have a cheap junk stereo we're installing on it, and when we're not using it for work, we'll drive around the campus with the stereo blasting and revolving roof lights on....just to see how many wierd looks we can get hahaha... :lol:

The thing with propane going through it and the wires is the fuel solenoid. When you turn the key on, it should "click". The thing with the water lines is one of the regulaters. The lines flow engine coolant so the reg. won't freeze up.
It sounds like you'll have a great rig to pick up (fat) chicks with.

You said the oil pan was bent up , check to see if the crank is hitting the pan.

You said the oil pan was bent up , check to see if the crank is hitting the pan.

ahh yes....ya know that did occur to me, but I didnt think much of it, thanks Puffer.

we're probably gonna pull the engine anyway at least just to clean it off. Its so simple to pull it out anyway, so its not a big deal. We want to find out what the knock is before we drive it around a lot...

ben

some pics of the fork lift right now....lots of hard work but it looks a little better now:D

we did more painting today, we're gonna paint the boom/fork thing tomorrow. painted all the foot surfaces with heavy duty truck bedliner spray stuff. painted wheels hyster-yellow and the hubs black, sides gloss black, rear weight is rustoleum "hammered finish" black. Everything was completely ground/sanded down to bare metal. no more rust anywhere, and its all smooth...rewired and new horn/lights/key switch/wiring installed. We're pretty sure we found the source of the knock....I look underneath and some dude must have offroaded in it or something...friggen oil pan is all caved in and dented to crap. I put my hand on it and the knock was consistent with what I felt on the oil pan.....so we're pretty sure the crank is hitting it. I dont see how a rod bearing or something would be going bad at "only" 1000 hours. Propane is pretty easy on engines and otherwise I understand these little 4 cylinder motors are built pretty tough.....I changed the oil and we've run it a fair amount and the oil is 100% as clean as when it went into the engine.....

anyway here are the pics.

take note of the:

ahh-oooo-gah horn.
two duramax's in the background.
red control knobs.
tilt steering wheel. (this forklift was a fully loaded model, which made the 200$ even more of a deal)
dual red rotating safety lights. (a whole 7 bucks, shipped on ebay)

more pics. note the torque converter. we're having Mike L. spec out a custom Suncoast triple disc for it. no, really, we are.


the engine IS clean, it just had a lot of sanding/grinding dust on it. Anyone know what that wierd disc thing is in pic #4??? Its got to be a MAP sensor of some sort cause its plumbed into the manifold and has two wires...I ahve no idea what for tho.

and last one.

That boom/fork "thing" is called the mast...

Why did you paint the bottle green??? Don't you know bottles are supposed to be blue....;)

yeah after looking at the bottle we're probably gonna paint it yellow with the wheels......blue is a good color tho!!!

alas....if only you put this kind of effort and detail into the lady folk...there would be so many lil Ben's running around it wouldn't be funny....nice job on the lift tough...

That could be a safety switch ben .
When you crank it over it creates manifold vaccum and that switch closes and likely puts power to some electrical propain shut off valve which in turn supplies fuel to the engine .

That could be a safety switch ben .
When you crank it over it creates manifold vaccum and that switch closes and likely puts power to some electrical propain shut off valve which in turn supplies fuel to the engine .

That's what she is.
The carb can freeze during periods of long use causing pane to continue to be discharged and that shuts the fuel sol when no vacum is present (engine not running).

update: the forklift is all painted...we are just waiting on a new seat. Aswell as figuring out the easiest/ safest way to remove the oil pan so that we can remove the depressions that are causing the crank to strike the oil pan (or so we think) Someone took this thing offroad:confused:...anyone have any suggestions besides removing the engine (which we did think about) to get to the oil pan. Ben nor I feel comfortable getting under the 7000lb forklift to reach the oil pan. There isnt really a great place to jack it from, or to put a jack stand on...its just an awkward size for how much the damn thing weighs. It would be nice if we could find a pit to drive over...BEN, POST NEW PICTURES IMMEDIATELY!!:)

update: the forklift is all painted...we are just waiting on a new seat. Aswell as figuring out the easiest/ safest way to remove the oil pan so that we can remove the depressions that are causing the crank to strike the oil pan (or so we think) Someone took this thing offroad:confused:...anyone have any suggestions besides removing the engine (which we did think about) to get to the oil pan. Ben nor I feel comfortable getting under the 7000lb forklift to reach the oil pan. There isnt really a great place to jack it from, or to put a jack stand on...its just an awkward size for how much the damn thing weighs. It would be nice if we could find a pit to drive over...BEN, POST NEW PICTURES IMMEDIATELY!!:)

finish your test first!!

Get a couple of 8 ft. 4x6 timbers, cut a slope on one end and you have instant ramps. There should be plenty of room under there to remove the pan, change the oil, etc.

finish your test first!!

ALL DONE WITH SCHOOL!!! i think its time for an adult beverage :)



...atleast for a few months. so post those damn pictures ben.

as for the ramp idea, bens dad works for a lumber yard, so i think getting some wood will be our simplest angle of attack! i cant wait to get rid of the knock

I was a design engineer with Hyster (later known as NMHG, as it was the parent company for Hyster and Yale) for 11.5 years (left last year). Do you have the serial number of the unit? It should be something like A187B12345K, stamped on the capacity plate (which should be on the dash on an S40XL, IIRC). Same # should also be stamped on the frame, usually somewhere towards the right front corner (operator's right side).

The engine looks like a GM 181 at a glance. One of my source books lists only the Mazda 2.0L OHC, but another also lists the GM 153 & GM 181.

I'm not sure what the little disc thing was, but I do not think it is for running the LPG lockoff. These trucks used a direct vacuum-actuated lockoff from IMPCO. If you look at the two round devices in the fuel system, the one "upstream" is the filter/lockoff, and the downstream one (with the coolant lines) is the regulator/vaporizer. It has an internal valve which lets the liquid LPG vaporize to a controlled pressure. The coolant lines keep it from icing up (as vaporizing LPG is around -43° F). The disc thing may be for cutting out ignition until the engine is cranking, to prevent backfires from igniting the LPG in the intake. Once I have a serial number I should be able to get a schematic and take a look.

I don't believe Hyster ever produced a factory dual-fuel system, but many models (including the XL series) offered them as a dealer-installed option. They would use a special carburetor with all the gasoline carb parts as well as valving for regulating the LPG in.

Try to get a picture of the hydraulic return line (from the tank to the pump inlet). If it still has the factory line, you should replace it. The factory line on this model was a goofy mix of 90° bends, steel tubing, and corrougated hose. It led to a rash of hydraulic pump failures due to cavitation. I redesigned the inlet plumbing to fix it, but it only went into production at the very end of this model. I set it up in the system so you would get the new hose & fittings if you tried to order any of the old inlet parts.

I like the idea of the long ramps. Keep in mind that the thing weighs 7500 lbs. At the development center we used really beefy "jack stands" which had a cradle for the tire to rest in. We would lift using an overhead crane (or another lift truck), using a chain connected to the top mast crossmember (front) or tow pin (rear).

$200 is less than scrap price for that thing! That is a helluva deal.

I still have lots of friends working there, so I should be able to access almost any information you need. Unfortunately there is no way to get parts discounts.

Regards,
Michael Pliska

Hey Michael-- thanks for the response!! Thats a HUGE help. Serial number is C187V09486R. S40XL. It must be a GM engine, because its not an OHC engine...its a pushrod engine. Automatic trans (torque converter, gas/brake pedals, forward/N/reverse lever on the side of the steering column). The only engine numbers we could find are the sticker on the top, says "manufacturerd to Hyster spec, P/N 1320878". We changed the oil, but thats it...

couple questions... :)

what kind of trans fluid and what kind of filter?
what kind of hydraulic fluid and what kind of filter?
what kind of engine oil filter?

any other standard maintinence other than the obvious fluids that we should do? There is some overspray (spray paint) on the piston of the main hydraulic cylinders...this cant be good for the seals on the pistons, how should we clean it off??

only other problem is it knocks!! Sounds like its coming deep in the block. According to the (working) hour meter, theres just a tick over 1000 hours on it. The engine cant possibly have a major internal problem with only 1000 hours right??? My dad has TONS of Hyster's at his lumberyard (maybe 60+ lifts in the company, or around there, all different sizes) and they all have thousands of hours, no problems... The knock is consistent with RPM, SOMETIMES if you hold the engine at a very certain RPM, the knock goes away. We looked underneath and somebody must have offroaded the thing....the oil pan was all bashed in to crap. We're "HOPING" that its the crank hitting the oil pan thats making the knocking, but what else could it be? Rod bearing? How hard is it to pull the engine and where would we get parts? We have no problem tearing the engine down, but we wouldnt ahve the slightest idea how to pull the engine out...

again, thanks so much for your help!!! Much appreciated.

Ben

Hey Michael-- thanks for the response!! Thats a HUGE help. Serial number is C187V09486R. S40XL. It must be a GM engine, because its not an OHC engine...its a pushrod engine. Automatic trans (torque converter, gas/brake pedals, forward/N/reverse lever on the side of the steering column). The only engine numbers we could find are the sticker on the top, says "manufacturerd to Hyster spec, P/N 1320878". We changed the oil, but thats it...

couple questions... :)

what kind of trans fluid and what kind of filter?
what kind of hydraulic fluid and what kind of filter?
what kind of engine oil filter?

any other standard maintinence other than the obvious fluids that we should do? There is some overspray (spray paint) on the piston of the main hydraulic cylinders...this cant be good for the seals on the pistons, how should we clean it off??

only other problem is it knocks!! Sounds like its coming deep in the block. According to the (working) hour meter, theres just a tick over 1000 hours on it. The engine cant possibly have a major internal problem with only 1000 hours right??? My dad has TONS of Hyster's at his lumberyard (maybe 60+ lifts in the company, or around there, all different sizes) and they all have thousands of hours, no problems... The knock is consistent with RPM, SOMETIMES if you hold the engine at a very certain RPM, the knock goes away. We looked underneath and somebody must have offroaded the thing....the oil pan was all bashed in to crap. We're "HOPING" that its the crank hitting the oil pan thats making the knocking, but what else could it be? Rod bearing? How hard is it to pull the engine and where would we get parts? We have no problem tearing the engine down, but we wouldnt ahve the slightest idea how to pull the engine out...

again, thanks so much for your help!!! Much appreciated.

Ben
Ben,
Your lift was built in 1994 in Berea, KY, and has a GM 181 ci (3.0L) engine. That engine has been known for its durability, with the exception of some bad water pumps produced in the mid-90's (yours probably already failed its original pump). I would check to make sure the hour meter still works - 1000 hours is awfully low for a 12-year-old machine! OTOH, my family business has a 1988 Hyster with around 2000 hours, so it is feasible! I was involved in a teardown of a truck with 10000 hours where we analyzed all parts for wear. It was in surprisingly good condition, and the customer was damn hard on their trucks (I have spent time watching them abuse them!). The key was good maintenance.

Trans Fluid is Hyster Part No. 336831, but IIRC it's really a Deere tractor oil spec; It should take 11 qts.
Trans Filter is Hyster 1328692 (proprietary)
Engine Oil is API CC/SE/SF/SG 10W-30
Engine Oil Filter is Hyster 127644 (not proprietary, should be able to find another usage of the GM 181 and look up generic filters)
Air Filter is Hyster 1344066 (proprietary)
Hydraulic Fluid is API CC or CC/SE/SF/SG SAE 10W oil
Hydraulic Filter is Hyster 1360557
LPG Fuel Filter is Hyster 258321. IIRC, it is a screen filter which may be cleaned.

I would check/clean the LPG filter (it is in the filter/lockoff assembly I mentioned in the previous post).

For cleaning the cylinders, I would try to use some type of chemical paint remover while being very careful not to get said remover into the seals.

Hopefully the knock is the pan/crank interference. Usually those pans are in good shape, as the bottom of the frame is lower than the padn. Damage is usually caused by trying to jack the thing up and missing the frame. It would be interesting to put a real oil pressure gauge on it (even temporarily) to evaluate whether a bearing has spun/disintegrated.

I sent you a PM for some additional info.

Thanks and regards,
Michael Pliska

that is a HUGE help, thanks Michael.

the hour meter definetly works (it "clicks" every 5 seconds or so when the ign is on) but who knows...maybe its rolled over or been replaced??

btw any idea where to tap into for an oil pressure reading? I havent really looked, but maybe is there a plug on the oil filter base?

my dad is about ready to open up a new yard and they just got a couple Hyster 155's (IIRC) in...nice machines those are!!

btw any idea where to tap into for an oil pressure reading? I havent really looked, but maybe is there a plug on the oil filter base?

my dad is about ready to open up a new yard and they just got a couple Hyster 155's (IIRC) in...nice machines those are!!

Good thing your dad got those machines now - they are about to go into production on the new model, and I would stay away from new models until the bugs get worked out! I know the people designing them too well!

Regarding the oil pressure connection, I have asked the main test engineer for GM engines, but he couldn't remember off the top of his head (he was at home). He will check tomorrow and I will post the answer.

The Transmission fluid spec is John Deere JDM J20, which may be easier to get than the Hyster stuff.

Regards,
Michael Pliska

Ben,
I confirmed that your lift came from the factory with the bad hydraulic inlet plumbing. If you need the new plumbing, it is available as a kit P/N 1388350. Look at the attached diagram - the new inlet plumbing is shown as an inset with items 63, 64 & 65. The old (bad) plumbing is shown as items 23, 24, 25 & 26. With the old plumbing, the hydraulic pump was extremely prone to cavitation failures (the inlet ran through 2 90° fittings, plus convoluted hose). The new plumbing is 2 straight fittings plus a formed collapse-resistant hose.

If yours has the old plumbing, you'll get a laugh at the appearance. It looks like it was designed to route around something big, but there is nothing in that location. I started dealing with a redesign of the hydraulic pump to address the high failure rates in the field, and started asking about that goofy routing. Everybody before me assumed that the goofy routing was necessary ("they wouldn't have designed it like that for no reason, so I'm not going to change it"). After digging through design notebook archives, I found that the design was an overzealous attempt at parts commonization, trying to use the same plumbing for the GM engine and a planned Isuzu diesel option. The diesel's exhaust routed right next to the hydraulic pump. The diesel option was dropped very early in the prototype phase, but the goofy design persisted. Back in the early-mid 90's, we were scratching around for $1-$2 cost reductions in components. This design change saved around $80 and made a huge warranty improvement! The initial design was dumb as well, since the diesel option (if it survived) would have been at most 5% of the volume, yet it would have added $80 to the cost of the other 95% of the units!

Thanks and regards,
Michael Pliska

awesome, thanks again for the info Michael, thats a huge help...we dont go back up to school until end of August/beginning of Sept, but as soon as we get back up there we'll check out the hydraulic system to see if its been changed...the hydraulic fluid level WAS low, I do know that for sure.

Ben

ok we did a little work on the fork lift again...


cylinders 1, 2, and 4 have good compression I think, 150psi and holding. Cylinder 3 has a little less, about 125-130psi. It sounds like the "clack clack clack clack" knock is coming from the exhaust manifold side of the engine, right near the #3 exhaust port. Its not lifter rattle, its slightly below that...doesnt really sound like its coming from deep deep down in the bottom of the engine. Every once in a while the clack clack will go away completely for a couple minutes and the engine will sound smooth as a top. Then it comes back. The clack clack clack doesnt really seem consistent with RPM....like if you rev it up and let off the pedal, the clack clack clack kinda changes rhythm on decel, kinda gets off beat OR goes away until the engine settles back down to idle.

Ill try to take a video or something of the noise...maybe that will help diagnose it. Hopefully the engine wont have to come out....cause we have NO way of taking the counterwight off the back...maybe the engine can be squeezed out from the top, without taking the counterweight off?? :)