-5C here (23F) not what we consider cold. Didn't plug the beast in and got a no go this morning, even after unplugging the ECT, wore dem batts right down. She went with a boost though after..., smoke everywhere running on a half dozen cylinders though for awhile.:mad:

Throw a couple cans of compression in it.

:D

Now you know why GM chose indirect injection, glow plugs, block heater, and 21:1 compression ratio........

how long of a glow were you using? You might want to consider adding a grid heater to the intake(from a cummins)

Set up a manual override for the glows. With mine, when all my GP's worked, i could start it close to zero and have a smooth idle and no smoke almost instantly. With one dead cylinder it still started right up at -5*f, but ran rough for a bit as it tried to pick up that last cylinder.

This is why I want to replace my glows with what it came with from the factory. I started it without being plugged in @ -20 f in Newfoundland 4 years ago, no problem at all.

Glows go out in about 7-8 secs (never counted), it did start but when the glows quit cycling in said it had enough...lol

It would start no problem with the extended timer on it but i took it out because it constantly threw codes for the GP control, very annoying to drive around with the friggen SES light on and not know if something else was wrong without having to always check it with the scanner. I'd like to just jump the GP controler and add a switch in the cab but dunno if that'll make it throw codes again or not. GMCTD at one time was gonna do some checking on that but i never heard anything back.

Explain...you got codes for "what" with a programmed longer timer ? :confused: That'd be a first. Or are you adding a switch to the circuit:eek: --yes, that will set codes. Where did you get your glow plugs ??
I'm not a low CR ratio diesel fan. You should actually have a starter that cranks another 100-150 RPM faster for this application...something I've gotta talk to Peninsular about for colder climates, too.

Lyndon
www.ecmprogrammer.com (http://www.ecmprogrammer.com)
Westers Garage

PCM checks for voltage on the GP harness, DTC sets if PCM calls for glow but no volts, and if PCM ends glow but volts are still there.

Explain...you got codes for "what" with a programmed longer timer ? :confused: That'd be a first. Or are you adding a switch to the circuit:eek: --yes, that will set codes. Where did you get your glow plugs ??
I'm not a low CR ratio diesel fan. You should actually have a starter that cranks another 100-150 RPM faster for this application...something I've gotta talk to Peninsular about for colder climates, too.

Lyndon
www.ecmprogrammer.com (http://www.ecmprogrammer.com)
Westers Garage

I forget the exact codes at this time Lyndon, the timer was wired into 1 of the wires on the back of the controler. Once it was removed the codes never came back. GP's are from napa, autolites maybe? Sure would like to get this ECM reprogrammed for longer glow times though as it started fine that way.

wire in a cummins grid heater in series with your glow plugs. We used to install grid heaters on New Holland tractors because when it got real cold out the cranking speed would be too low for the computer to allow the either to inject into the engine and no start. The grid heater placed in the intake tubing would let it fire right off. Just a thought. On my old 18:1 engine, I added an additional large glow plug into the intake that worked in series with the other glow plugs. I got it from penninsular.:cool:

I forget the exact codes at this time Lyndon, the timer was wired into 1 of the wires on the back of the controler. Once it was removed the codes never came back. GP's are from napa, autolites maybe? Sure would like to get this ECM reprogrammed for longer glow times though as it started fine that way.

The latest ones from GM light up a lot faster. You should be using those, instead. Most of the latest GM updates require the different glow plugs.
(Or...I can just turn up the timer !)

Lyndon
www.ecmprogrammer.com (http://www.ecmprogrammer.com)
Westers Garage

CR,

you most likey had a 12v wire that was on a grounded circuit on the timmer/ to GP controller. I say this because when I wired in a starter solenoid to take over for the GP relay, I had the hot wire on the grounded side and it threw the GP circuit code and little more.

Here's some pictures of the glow plug timer once removed.

Here is a picture of where the timer was wired into also, the blue wire was from the timer and wired into the yellow wire going into the controler, when i took it out the wire was barely attached and only T'd into the yellow wire and wrapped around it and soldered in place.

Pin B8 - Ckt 507 in '94-95, also drives WTS lamp

Pin D7 - Ckt 104 in '96-00 with separate WTS lamp control on C7 and C3

These circuits monitor glow voltage on the harness to the plugs.

DTC sets if voltage does not match demanded condition - On = 12v, OFF = 0v

Manual switch and relay will set DTC.

Maybe a subroutine pointing to IAT to increase duration - ECT can be 190deg, but at 0deg ambient air, starting will need more glow

Other possible method is a 100k resistor substituted into the ECT ckt to tell PCM that it's -40deg outside - gets more advance, fuel, and extended glow.

IIRC, I've posted this b4 - must be that dratted Ozone layer.................

I counted only 5 seconds of glow time this morning before they went out.

My software has a GP learn feature to it, does anyone know how to do this correctly with a scanner?

Since I pulled the GP relay's out, I don't think I can check with the auction accurately. 5 seconds sounds like resistance on the battery to ign cables ect, bad connections alwys shorten the glow cycle.

Battery connections seem fine, she cranks pretty fast without syn in the pan and lasts for awhile before it needs a boost. Connections were clean 4000 km's ago when it was installed.

I know where there's some 0.30 over 18:1 pistons.....cheap.... lol

You dont suppose its yer 18:1 pistons? lower compression lower heat at cold start?
Im only wondering because im thinking about going that route but wonder what the downside is.. (theres allways a downside to anything you do on an engine)

Vince

Battery connections seem fine, she cranks pretty fast without syn in the pan and lasts for awhile before it needs a boost. Connections were clean 4000 km's ago when it was installed.

I know where there's some 0.30 over 18:1 pistons.....cheap.... lol

Like i've said i dunno how many times now, it starts just fine with the extended glow times or when i plugg it in.

Yes its because of the 18:1's but can be cured with longer glows or plugging it in.

I'm also in proccess as i type here of changing my resistor back to a #9 to see if i can prove a point, will post results of that in the other stumbling thread.

Man, I have never had the problems u have had with starting, mine is takes 2 cycles at most and usually I get 7 out of 8 to hit and then the 8th hits about 10 seconds later, and that was letting my truck sit in a train station parking lot for 2 days at -20 F windchill, 5F temp.

I just have those Warp quick heats in my truck, no problems at all.

Must be in the flash then.

Unless i'm even lower than 18:1??

Marine injectors freezing up in cold weather.

Maybe you need a Delphi Thermostart. Use it while your running and make even more smoke.

Remembering Science-101, windchill affects people and other warm-blooded critters, not inanimate objects - 5deg is 5deg to your truck, no matter how many times you call it 'baby'

wire in a cummins grid heater in series with your glow plugs. We used to install grid heaters on New Holland tractors because when it got real cold out the cranking speed would be too low for the computer to allow the either to inject into the engine and no start. The grid heater placed in the intake tubing would let it fire right off. Just a thought. On my old 18:1 engine, I added an additional large glow plug into the intake that worked in series with the other glow plugs. I got it from penninsular.:cool:

CR try getting a Champion CH3 glowcoil abd adding it in the intake.
Thread: M18x1.50
Voltage: 12v
Wattage: 385watts

http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/showpost.php?p=214477&postcount=27

Here is another option.
http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/showpost.php?p=178734&postcount=24

Carey

Onan? We have plenty of them around here, i may add that or something similiar once i get the glow times extended.

Onan? We have plenty of them around here, i may add that or something similiar once i get the glow times extended.

CR,

Cummins V-8 use also them IIRC they are 903 ci.

Carey