Fishnfool
03-19-2006, 08:25 PM
Changed my stock fuel filter this weekend and afterwards decided to work up a clear step-by-step procedure for any new 6.5 owners or anyone who hasn't done a changeout before.
My truck is a 96 with 4L80E auto trans so the procedure should work for most all 6.5's with automatics (I think) - not sure how things are done with a manual tranny in step #6 but if someone knows, speak up and I'll add it in to the procedure. Also, I'm no expert on the 6.5 so if you see something in my work-up that could be done different or better, say so and we'll see about changing it.
A couple of problems I had changing my filter.
1 - when purging air from the filter housing in step #6, I had fuel leaking from it appeared to be underneath the purge valve located on top of the housing. I had a 5/16 I.D. hose attached to the outlet and tried barely opening the purge cap to opening it a full turn or so but it still leaked fuel - is this normal?
2 - I noticed the screen was missing from the pickup tube in the filter housing. It wasn't to be found in the old filter so either I lost it doing a previous change or it wasn't there when I bought my truck used. Anyone know if a replacement screen is available & happen to have a P/N?
6.5 Diesel – Stock Fuel Filter Change Procedure
1 - Open the fuel tank filler cap to release any pressure.
2 - Open the water drain valve (T-handle) and direct the drain hose into a suitable container.
3 - Place a piece of plastic tubing over the bleeder outlet on top of the fuel filter and open the bleeder. Blow through the tubing into the bleeder – this will force most of the fuel in the filter housing out and into the drain container.
4 - Loosen the black retainer ring on top of the fuel filter housing and lift the fuel filter out. When removing the old filter, be sure not to lose the small screen on the pickup tube. Remove any fuel or crud that remains in the bottom of the housing by using an old squeeze bulb turkey baster or other suction device. Wipe fuel filter bowl clean using a lint-free cloth.
One caution when changing the filter; sometimes the stainless steel ring can stick to the top edge of the filter housing when you pull the filter out and it’s easy to overlook. This ring helps hold the lip seal on the filter – look at your new filter and you will see what I’m talking about. Make sure the old ring is not on the housing prior to installing the new filter.
5 - Insert the new filter, re-install the retaining ring, and leave the bleeder open with the piece of tubing still attached. Place the loose end of the tubing into the container you used to catch the fuel that came out of the fuel drain and close the T-handle fuel drain.
6 - Place the transmission in Drive and with foot on the brake, turn the ignition to start. Fuel and air bubbles should come out of the bleeder in about 15 seconds or less. Close the bleeder when all the air is purged. If this doesn’t work, there’s something wrong, most likely the Lift Pump or possibly the Oil Pressure Switch. For help on troubleshooting these other parts, see the 6.5 FAQ section.
My truck is a 96 with 4L80E auto trans so the procedure should work for most all 6.5's with automatics (I think) - not sure how things are done with a manual tranny in step #6 but if someone knows, speak up and I'll add it in to the procedure. Also, I'm no expert on the 6.5 so if you see something in my work-up that could be done different or better, say so and we'll see about changing it.
A couple of problems I had changing my filter.
1 - when purging air from the filter housing in step #6, I had fuel leaking from it appeared to be underneath the purge valve located on top of the housing. I had a 5/16 I.D. hose attached to the outlet and tried barely opening the purge cap to opening it a full turn or so but it still leaked fuel - is this normal?
2 - I noticed the screen was missing from the pickup tube in the filter housing. It wasn't to be found in the old filter so either I lost it doing a previous change or it wasn't there when I bought my truck used. Anyone know if a replacement screen is available & happen to have a P/N?
6.5 Diesel – Stock Fuel Filter Change Procedure
1 - Open the fuel tank filler cap to release any pressure.
2 - Open the water drain valve (T-handle) and direct the drain hose into a suitable container.
3 - Place a piece of plastic tubing over the bleeder outlet on top of the fuel filter and open the bleeder. Blow through the tubing into the bleeder – this will force most of the fuel in the filter housing out and into the drain container.
4 - Loosen the black retainer ring on top of the fuel filter housing and lift the fuel filter out. When removing the old filter, be sure not to lose the small screen on the pickup tube. Remove any fuel or crud that remains in the bottom of the housing by using an old squeeze bulb turkey baster or other suction device. Wipe fuel filter bowl clean using a lint-free cloth.
One caution when changing the filter; sometimes the stainless steel ring can stick to the top edge of the filter housing when you pull the filter out and it’s easy to overlook. This ring helps hold the lip seal on the filter – look at your new filter and you will see what I’m talking about. Make sure the old ring is not on the housing prior to installing the new filter.
5 - Insert the new filter, re-install the retaining ring, and leave the bleeder open with the piece of tubing still attached. Place the loose end of the tubing into the container you used to catch the fuel that came out of the fuel drain and close the T-handle fuel drain.
6 - Place the transmission in Drive and with foot on the brake, turn the ignition to start. Fuel and air bubbles should come out of the bleeder in about 15 seconds or less. Close the bleeder when all the air is purged. If this doesn’t work, there’s something wrong, most likely the Lift Pump or possibly the Oil Pressure Switch. For help on troubleshooting these other parts, see the 6.5 FAQ section.