Ok, as my research continues (newbie) I have come to the conclusion that another fuel filter will be good for my truck in the long haul along with starting to run fuel additive. What system is the best/easiest install/price etc.? Aside from break-in/fluid/filter changes, this will be my first mod. Then start performance mods as they become more available for the LLY. Larger tires and better shocks also down the road as I wear out the stockers. I was actually surprised when I first got the truck home and could only find one fuel filter, always thought diesels had two! Guess that is why I am a newbie!

I got the Racor kit from Greg at http://lubespecialist.com/ .


I haven't installed it yet, as I was focusing on 2 other projects for the truck. 1. Somone hit my new truck's driver's side mirror off, so I installed some TTT mirrors (lots of work). 2. I made a motorcycle carrier for the hitch.


Looking at the instructions for the kit... It looks complicated (as is any wiring the first time) for the wiring of the heater and WIF sensor. The mounting looks easy.


Marco

I got the Racor kit from Greg at http://lubespecialist.com/ .


<snip>


Looking at the instructions for the kit... It looks complicated (as is any wiring the first time) for the wiring of the heater and WIF sensor. The mounting looks easy.


Marco





It's kind of a pain figuring it out the first time. I got the Racor kit from OFI. Had to call Racor about a couple of things including the wiring. They used an '03 for their instructions and the '04 is a bit different, plus the ferules in the compression fittings for the feed fuel line were in the fittings backwards....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif It took several calls to figure out they went in the way I thought they did, and not the way they came.


Any way, if Greg's kit doesn't say so, there are two sets of pink switched wires underneath the UHFP instead of just one. Use the smaller gauge wire set just below the bolt, not the two underneath that. Also, the tower piece they suggest mounting the relay to is occupied by additional wiring. I trimmed the tab on the relay and slid it into a slot on the UHFP base, then tie wrapped it to the base. It worked pretty well.


GM wants you to tie into the WIF sensor circuit just back from the engine plug for protection from water, etc. according to Racor. Opening up that harness is a pain, but putting it back together taped is a bigger one. Make sure you've got a SMALL roll of electrical tape....


Any other questions you might have, I'll be happy to try and answer them, but there are a few differences between the Racor kit and Greg's, so I may not know. Greg has been really good about answering questions, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Oh, wear some clothes you can toss because diesel fuel doesn't seem to wash out....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

Zeeb,


Thanks for the tips. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


I will be installing next week after I get back from a trip. I might take you up on your offer of help answering questions.


Marco

Ok then

Zeeb have any pick of your install, I'm looking at getting something ASAP.

I wound up routing the fuel lines a little differently because I wanted to retain the plastic clips holding the line to the frame, so I used a 90 degree elbow in the back to avoid kinking the flex line.


The UHFP relay mount pic is a bit blurry (that's the relay you can see with the white, green, black and red wires coming out of it and mounted flat on the bottom piece of the UFHP housing) but I wound up mounting the relay 180 degrees from where this pic shows it. That worked out well. I also routed the harness up into the middle of the UHFP panel instead of the side as Racor suggested. That allowed me to tie wrap the harness to an existing harness instead of leaving it loose. The pic of the bottom of the UHFP shows the two sets of pink wires I talked about in the post above, not the one set shown on the install directions. I sent Racor the pics too.


I didn't take any pics of the WIF tie in, but basically I removed the "corregated" plastic stuff, cut away the tape from an area about five inches back from the engine plug and spliced into the circuit there. Then I re-wrapped all of that with several layers of tape, secured the WIF sense wire with one layer all the way back to the UHFP and re-installed the corregated stuff with tape like the factory puts on it.


Turned out to be more of a project than anticipated, but I wasn't in a hurry since the truck is not my only driver and I wanted it right.


Oh, the "goo" you see is because the truck has been undercoated, and the missing paint is because of me drying off diesel fuel which ate the coating on the frame....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


Going to have to see about getting some of that stuff Hoot's got listed to redo it. I chose not to break the siphon on the fuel line in order to fill the new filter, it worked pretty well, but I think if I were to do it again, I'd break the siphon and deal with priming....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif


The truck had less than 1/8 of a tank of fuel when I did it, but with the siphon effect there was still quite a bit of fuel running out and the fuel fill cap was loose so there wasn't any pressure in it either.


edit info:


GM decided to put a couple of extra bends in the fuel lines on the '04, so the return fuel line runs right over the hole of the top mounting bolt for the mount. If you run the bolts from the inside out and tweak the return line, it clears nicely. The piece of flex line you can see tie wrapped to the return line in the first pic is just in case of chaffing. There's not a lot of room between the line and the compression coupling for the fuel feed line, and if you bend the return line more it won't fit into the retaining clip on the frame anymore. Just the airplane mechanic in me I guess...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/5CD_Racor2.jpg


<IMG onMouseOver="this.style.cursor='hand'" onMouseOut="this.style.cursor=''" alt='Click on

Thanks Zeeb, Now I just need to order one up and give it a shot.

What about the nictane kit? It looks simple, no wiring. Why does the recor kit require wiring?

What about the nictane kit? It looks simple, no wiring. Why does the recor kit require wiring?


The Racor kit has a built in heater and WIF sensor just like the factory filter and it works with the truck's DIC.


Greg's kit can be ordered with or without the heater, and/or the WIF sensor. Supposedly, the Racor kit is GM approved although you'll not find any reference to that anywhere I've seen. The Racor Product Bulletin about the kit does tell you to refer to your local Racor Distributor or GMC Truck dealer for installation assistance.


http://www.o-f-i.com/sec/Racor_Fuel_Filter_Duramax.pdf


I've spoken to several Racor engineers about their kit, and each has made reference to things that were done or incorporated into the kit in response to what GM wanted.


This may or may not be important to you, but if you've got a Service Manager like I have, you'd better get his okay before you start modifying your fuel system, or he might void the warranty. Depends on the dealer as to whether or not they would consider another type of installation as kosher.Edited by: Zeeb

Does the Racor Kit come with a 10 micron only? You can get Greg's with a 2 micron also. Later! Frank

Ya Frank, it comes with a 10 micron... If you don't happen to like that you can put whatever rated filter Racor makes on that head.


I happen to believe that the engineers at Racor and GM who worked on this thing and decided that having a pair of 2 micron filters was not the way to go must know more about it than I, or most of the folks here.


redneck45,


You need to do a search on this topic since I have no intention of opening up this can of worms again. It's been beat to death. After you read some of the threads and opinions about this subject, you'll have to decide which route is best for you since there is no concensus of opinion. The only thing most agree on is that some sort of secondary fuel filtration is a good idea...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gifEdited by: Zeeb

How does the heater work? Is it on all the time when the engine is running (key on). Not sure I need it in Florida, but then you never know I may need it someday if I take a road trip to Buffalo to see my folkshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif.

Power is supplied to it from a switched source, the pink wire tie in, and it's supposed to be thermostatically controlled and turn on below 40 degress F. just like the factory filter.


They (Racor) don't talk about exactly how it works much, although I never asked specifically how it functions. Whether it's capable of variable heat or is just on or off, I don't know.


Maybe Greg's got the answer to that one. I just felt that while it's not normally cold enough around here to cause problems with Winter blended fuel, there are times when it does get really cold, or I go someplace further North. Cheap insurance is my thought about it.

Thanks to Zeeb and the "pink wire" explanation - I just finished my Racor installation. I bought it from Greg at Lubespecialist.


Quality kit, but took me quite a bit more time than anticipated.


1. Greg threw in a rock shield for free (thanks, Greg!), but I had to prime and paint it.


2. Put couple coats of rubberized undercoating on bracket and stone shield over the paint.


3. Replaced hoses with Parker wire mesh lines and went with compression and/or taper fittings for all connections (no clamps). I should add that this is probably way over kill and Greg's kit is great as is.


4. Took wiring harness and sealed each connector with liquid electrical tape. Then sealed all exposed wires with a continuous length of low temp electrical tape. I should hope that there will be no worrys on corrosion or ice. Again, probably over kill.


Other than that - pretty much by the book install. But I have two half days into it (probably about 10 hours total - but this includes painting, undercoat, etc). A couple of items that need to be added to Greg's instructions (he almost got a call from me today).


A. A warning about the cutting the fuel line. It will create a siphon and you will essentially drain your tank of you are not prepared. Sounds logical - but I did not think of this until the line was cut. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif Since I did not use the "slip on" clamped hoses that Greg provided, it took me more time to fiddle with the compression fitting on the mesh hose. Luckily, my son was outside and I yelled for a bucket once I realized why the fuel was continuing to drain out. My fault - and pretty stupid as I should have thought through this first. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


B. That darn pink wire reference in Greg's instructions is semi-useless (no offense, Greg). If it was not for Zeeb and his explanation, I would have had to postpone another day. THANKS, Zeeb!!!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif I have an 04' LB7 and when I pulled the fuseblock off, there are 15+ "pink" wires under there andthe picture provided in the install doc is not real helpful.


C. Connecting (splicing) to the wire that goes into the engine connector - UGLY! Don't know about you but our friends at Yazaki or Delphi left NO slack in that wire. I could hardly fit the splice connector around the wire and was scared to death I was going to pull it out of the connection block. I was very very careful, but very paranoid as it required a fair amount tinkering to get the splice on it. It would be nice if there was someplace easier to grab on to it - maybe where the WIF wire originates by the other OEM filter?


D. A word of warning for those that may not realize this already. If your truck has been undercoated, be sure and remove the undercoating off of the fuel line where you make the cut and beyond the end of the new hose for about 1/2" - 1". Again - common sense to most of us, but it may be worth mentioning. BTW - starting fluid worked great. Spray in rag first.

BK-G22,


Have any pics of your fuel line set up?


Thanks for all the tips guys, it will make it much easer for me when the time comes.

These are pics from last night before any electrical was done.


Note that due to the type of connectors I used, I did not make a single cut in the line. I actually pulled out about a 4-5" section. (All while fuel was pouring out http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif )


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8EA_DSCN3221-65.jpg


Here is unit installed with rock guard (note: no wiring shown yet)


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/3EA_DSCN3223-65.jpg


Lastly, here is one that gives you a better look at the rock guard. One more word of suggestion for Greg. The clearance between the rock guard and the filter is very tight. On mine, they are pretty much touching so it is kinda difficult to get a filter wrench on it and impossible to get your hands around it. The Parker wrench doesn't work either as it does not fit between the bottom of the bowl and that rock shield. If I try to engage the ribs on the bowl while flexing the plastic wrench, I can get about 60% of the bite I should get and this was enough (barely) to loosen the bowl. One trick I did not try was to loosen the whole bracket/rock shield assy to see of that would give me some more room. Not complaints - just observations/possible suggestions.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/6E3_DSCN3231-65.jpg


I will post more when the sun is out (better quality pics) and you can see the wiring harness as well. I would take pictures under the hood but that is all taped up and tucked away. As it stands right now, if a GM tech opened the hood, he would never know anything has been added unless he knew EXACLTY what to look for. I have everything hidden pretty well.


Hope these help.Edited by: BKG-22

BKG-22,


Too bad you didn't read the part about the siphon that I wrote. I had a small piece of hose with a plug in it ready to go, but hindsight says breaking the siphon and dealing with priming is the way to go...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif


As far as the pink wires go, that took some fiddling with the multi-meter as Racor's instructions weren't very clear. But it was about 8:00PM when I discovered that so it was either try and figure it out or wait another day. I, like you, put two half days into it with the changes and chasing down information that wasn't clear on the install instructions.


Now for the best part. I, like you, installed the d*mn thing in order to leak check it before I hooked up the electrical. When I got to the part about testing the WIF sensor, I kind of did an AH SH*T..(golf terminology there). BUT, there is a way....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


The bowl on mine came with a small nylon plug where the WIF sensor goes. Open the fuel cap to relieve the pressure and just take out the WIF sensor and put in that plug for a few minutes. Then just use the clamp section of a test light or something to short the two contacts on the end of the WIF sensor and presto! The DIC promptly informs you of "Water In Fuel". You'll get just a little fuel out of the bowl when changing back and forth, but not more than an ounce or so.


Hope that helps....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


edit info:


You seem like the careful type, but just in case and it might be overkill, but I cleaned the WIF sensor off with some Electric Contact Cleaner and dried it before I hooked the harness back up and shorted the ends for the test....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gifEdited by: Zeeb

Thanks Zeeb -


I have had this filter kit since mid-February but it has either been too cold for me to install or I have been travelling. I never thought to take another look out here in the forums to see if there has been any updated info (like yours). When I pulled the UHFB and saw the mess of "PINK" wires, I mumbled one of your "golf terms" and hoped that if a did a search for "pink wire" on this web site, I would find someone else who ran into the problem. Thanks again!


Yes, mine did have the nylon plug, I will give it a try. I am a little concerned about that WIF connection at the engine plug anyway. I checked, and the splice is locked closed, but did not sound or feel quite right. I really do not want to screw up that connector! That would be a tough one to get fixed under warrantee! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif


Thanks again for your input!

Found the original nylon plug - pulled the WIF and put in the plug. Tested GREAT! WATER IN FUEL came on as expected on the DIC.


Whew! Breath of fresh air! All checks out "Green Light"! Time to put some miles on it. I just turned over 3000 and lovin' every mile!


Thanks to all!


BTW - it got pretty cold last night (below freezing) and was still cold when I started tinkering with it this a.m. After testing WIF, I noticed as the fuel ran down my arm http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif, it was WARM. Kinda surprised me - but then I just grinned!!!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif The ol'fuel heater had started doing its job as soon as I turned the key on! COOL!!! (I mean WARM!)Edited by: BKG-22

If you guys would just put the Shop Vac hose over your fuel tank filler and let it vacume while you cut you would not get a shower. Also just a little pressure in the tank will do the bleeding for you. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif Edited by: VaderDmax

Instructions and better pictures are going to be done soon. This will help when it comes to which pink wire. I never was any good at writting anything but I hope it will be a little clearer this time around.





As for the rock guard you need to pull the filter head all the way to the left before you tighten things up. The head has slotted holes in itand by sliding it all the way to the left you will have just enough room to get a wrench on the filter. You will then take off the filter and then use the bowl wrench once you have it in a vise.





I will have 25 more kits available Friday. I broke my foot this past Thursday so things are going to be a day behind on shipping because I have to wait for my son to do the packing at night for shipping the next day.


One good thing is I hope to get my web site work done while I am setting in the lazy boy with my fee up and laptop in hand.





Greg

LanduytG - I hope you didn't take my suggestions above as a negative on your instructions. I think they were pretty good. Just a couple of things you can add in version 2 that would make them even better.


I'll try the adjustment on the filter head for spacing between the rock shield. Thanks!


If you need pics - let me know. I would be happy to help (although mine is not exactly a "standard" install).


Take care of the foot - OUCH! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif


Love the filter kit - thanks again! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

BKG-22


I can't improve anything without feedback. I would have the holes punched a little different on the rock gaurd next time. Also I have to look but I think the yellow wire can be hooked up under the fuse block instead of going all the way up to the engine.





Greg

Still on the fence here. Once this thing is on it don't look easy to remove in case of warranty issues. I have never had any warranty issues with my gassers, but this my first diesel. Part of me wants to do the right thing for my truck (friends have said I am very anal about my vehicles--and I am--or I would'nt be here). The other part of me (comes from getting older and hopefully wiser) and says screw it--GM designed and built it this way for a reason--keep it totally stock, follow their recomended service, and let them fix it if something happens--hopefully before 100k! Then after they replace the injectors, put on the filter and drive it! I mean, this is the most I have ever paid for a vehicle, I should not have to put any $ into it other than regular maintence. What do you all think?

I never hurts to have beter fuel filtration. One thing I have learned in the past year and ahlf or so is that fuel filtertion is just as important or maybe more so than oil filtration. THis is one thing thing you will have to make up your own mind on. Its what eer you can live with.





Greg

BKG-22


I can't improve anything without feedback. I would have the holes punched a little different on the rock gaurd next time. Also I have to look but I think the yellow wire can be hooked up under the fuse block instead of going all the way up to the engine.





Greg





I asked the Racor engineer about that yellow wire tie in location specifically...


He said that while he couldn't see a problem with making it at the UHFP, the location they used was at GM's direction. GM's engineers seemed to feel that would provide the best protection from from exposure to water and the possible corrosion of that connection was the stated reasoning. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me, nor did it to him, but that's what GM wanted so that's what they did.

redneck45 -


I had similar thoughts as well. Coming from a "GM family" and the big $$ this rig costs, my first inclination was just to say to heck with it! Drive it properly and maintain it well (which also get accused of being anal with the care of my vehicles) and let GM worry about any residual problems.


But a couple of things changed my mind:


1. Regardless of responsibility for the injectors, I don't want to be setting dead along side the road because I was trying to "prove a point" to GM. Maybe that is unlikely - but I would rather invest in a little prevention now. Granted, there is still no guarantee - but I am convinced that will help the life of the fuel delivery system on my truck and this appears to be the Achilles Heel of the Duramax.


2. If I DID wait for GM to cover it under warrantee and forget the whole secondary filtration issue altogether, my expereince with dealership mechanics has not been all that great (no offence to all the good dealership mechanics that frequent this site - just stating my personal experience). Everything they have to tear off to get to my injectors and put back together when they are done, I think you "may" be asking for other un-related problems down the road. If I can prevent, reduce or at least significantly DELAY the time before I have to have someone work on my truck, I will do so.


3. I personally like doing projects like this. I know I am taking good care of my vehicles and they generally take good care of me. It's kind of a peace of mind knowing that I have gone the extra mile. That is personal and there is no price tag I can put on that.


4. The only way my dealer would would know the filter system was even on the truck would be if there was an electrical problem and they had to start trouble shooting different circuits. You cannot see anything "out of the ordinary" under the hood. The wiring harness looks as OEM as OEM gets. If they had the truck on the rack and needed to inspect the fuel tank or fuel cooler, they may notice it as well. Although I will never ask my dealers permission to take care of my truck, I doubt he would have a problem anyway - especially once he sees the job is done and it all works great. My opinion - your mileage may vary.


As Greg said - it is your choice. But I think I have been on your fence and this is what made me decide to go the direction I did.


Hope this helps!

redneck45,


As I said in an earlier post. I got my Service Manager's okay for this mod when I showed him the Racor Product Bulletin. Any of the dealers who've dealt with diesels know there are some fuel problems out there. Sometimes, I'll bet most, it's an individual fuel station who doesn't do the proper filter maintenance and water control on their storage tanks.


So as far as the Racor kit and warranty, I think you'll be okay, but you should ask your Service Manager about it. The other "Catch-22" here is that some members have posted about GM denying warranty claims for fuel system problems when rust is found in the fuel filter. GM is very specific about not wanting you to use any kind of water control additive in your fuel, but if you must, a de-emusifying agent is the only type they will okay. So if you add an additional water trapping filter to your system and maintain those filters, your odds of preventing water in fuel problems should be dramatically reduced.


Have you done any of the searches and reading I suggested about this?


I ask because you'll not get a "cut and dried" answer to your question. You'll have to decide which way to go is best for you, a second filter or not, if a second filter which type and which location.


You are not alone in your indecision as BKG-22 has said, we've all gone through this secondary fuel filtration issue.


I hope the input has been useful to you and good luck...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gifEdited by: Zeeb

As far as the corrosion goes I send along the moisture resistent quick splices. This was recommend to me by a fellow member. They are filled with a silcon or something like that.

Greg

As does Racor for the yellow WIF sensor wire. I only mentioned that location deal in case you were attempting to duplicate Racor's efforts where warranty considerations might come into play...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif


If it's done according to GM's own recommendations, they can't say much if it doesn't work the way it's intended.

Ok, which kit are you guys using? The 660R2K for $175? Confused as to which one, he has seveal on his site. Once in place how often are you changing the fuel filters then? Both once a year? or sooner?

Still on the fence here. Once this thing is on it don't look easy to remove in case of warranty issues. I have never had any warranty issues with my gassers, but this my first diesel. Part of me wants to do the right thing for my truck (friends have said I am very anal about my vehicles--and I am--or I would'nt be here). The other part of me (comes from getting older and hopefully wiser) and says screw it--GM designed and built it this way for a reason--keep it totally stock, follow their recomended service, and let them fix it if something happens--hopefully before 100k! Then after they replace the injectors, put on the filter and drive it! I mean, this is the most I have ever paid for a vehicle, I should not have to put any $ into it other than regular maintence. What do you all think?


Eric


You will have to decide what you want to do. Without extra filtration your fuel milage will slowly go away as you get more miles on the truck and with my luck the injectors will then wait until 102K and take a crap at my expense. Just trying to improve my odds!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

redneck45


All depends on if you want a heater, water in fuel sensor nothing or both. Have been selling the heck out of the GM660R122 kit. That has heater and wif. It might be best if you judst give me a call. All kits come with everything you need to install.





Greg

Ok, which kit are you guys using? The 660R2K for $175? Confused as to which one, he has seveal on his site. Once in place how often are you changing the fuel filters then? Both once a year? or sooner?


There are quite a few of the members using Greg's kit which is built with mostly Racor components and is a chunk cheaper than the Racor.


Some of us including myself are using the actual Racor kit RK32313 with heater and WIF, which is $307.50, and the filter guard option RK32347 which is IIRC, $34.00. Shipping is free on anything over $250.00 from OFI. These Racor numbers are supposed to be available from Racor distributors, but I got mine, and those prices are from Oregon Fuel Injection:


http://www.oregonfuelinjection.com

I'll be calling Greg. thanks.