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Hi all,


I have looked at a few trucks with the 6.5 turbo, and it seems that any with mileage over 200K (kilometers-Canada-about 125K miles) have had substantial repair work done, often to the heads. This makes me nervous of any that have not yet had this type of work done.


What's the scoop ? Are these motors any good? What should I look for or avoid ? How long do they last requiring 'normal' maintenance before major repairs ?





Thanks for any feedback.





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I have not had to go into the engine, I did the timeing chain as an extra preventive thing, a GM Tech I know well said I didn't NEED to do it. I have 163,000 miles.


A post from another place.


Truck is still stock, 157,000, no problems.
Brother's truck has 237,000, also stock, no problems. Both 98's, HD engines, auto tranny, 4X4. Think you just don't hear of the ones that don't have problems.
http://forum.thedieselpage.com/ubb/cool.gif K. D.





I think that poster has a point that we don't here much on the Forums about trucks wilth no problem.Edited by: 16gaSxS

Royzell,


What will you be using the truck for? If it's mostly commuting and light hauling, the 6.5 should last well, and be ecomomical on fuel. For heavy towing and hauling, the 6.5 works pretty hard. - I pull 9,000 lb of trailer &amp; compact tractor now and then, but mostly dirve it empty or lightly loaded.


From reading these and other boards, my sense is that the early electronic models, say '94 - '96, had more problems than the '92 &amp; '93 mechanically injected models, or the later '97 - '00 units. (I'm sure there are folks here who would disagree ;) The advantages of the 6.5 include cheap parts, generally good fuel mileage, and the fact that they come in a well-built truck with a decent ride - at a reasonable price. Also, the GM automatic transmissions are more reliable than Ford or Dodge, according to many, including our local transmission specialist. There are fewer 6.5s around than 1990s era Powerstrokes or Cummins 5.9s, so finding good ones may take some looking.

royzell, I have 240k on my 2002 6.5 diesel and the only mechanical things replaced so far are one lift pump (NOT injector pump) and a leaking oil cooler line.


I know of a '97 with over 900k on it and the heads have never been off.

I'm thinking the restrictive factory downpipe and crossover put back pressure on the engine that can kill a 6.5 block prematurely. i have a '93 with 180,000, a '94 with 300,000 (40,000 on a new block, a mechanic droped a bolt in the #6 cylinder on the old one and it went 20,000 miles before it went) and a '96 with 200,000. no head problems, no crank problems.

Hi guys


I'm new to the forum too....thot you'd like to know though my 1994 silverado 6.5 turbo has 440,000 km (around 300,000 miles) only thing really done in recent years is injectors....amazing what prayer and lots of hiway miles can accomplish.http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif


What can I expect might come my way next in terms of repairs???


Rattler

Rattler,


I would ask what you have done to it as far as modifications? Have you removed all of the factory installed obsolesence.

Hey QM


Actually I haven't done much to it other than remove the "turbo power" engine cover last summer and the usual maintenance.


What do you suggest?

The air restriction in the fenderwell behind the airbox, The upper intake cast web, The entire exhaust system. DIY REmote wiring harness relocator for the FSD ( Fuel Solenoid Driver),FSD Cooler, boost controller, and OPS BYpass relay.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/3EF_restrict.jpg


One 1/4" screw behind the battery holds it in.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8B3_96intake2.jpgno cast web.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/442_downpipes.jpg


factory installed backpressure.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Z41_exhausts.jpg


Twice as long, ten times bent and a TD396 sounds beautiful unrestricted.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Z86_96l65.jpgThe FSD is on the aluminum


cooler (heatsink) in the upper rt. corner( blue wireloom).The boost controler comes off the MAP sensor(red wireloom).


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/877_96dashswitch.jpg This non-linear taper 10K OHM potentiometer gives 10 psi at half pot. and 15 psi at full pot, or 6 psi off. It cost 2.99 and the nob was .30 It took 30 min to install with a solder iron, wire pliers and a drill with a 1/4 bit for the hole.





























Edited by: quantum mechanic

I've got a '95 6.5L Turbo and it runs fine, other than regular maitenance it has a new starter(It gets cold here, hard on starter), and a low temperature sensor.

291,000 kms.