hey all,

i have a 2005 2500 without power locks and power windows, if i wanted to put them in are there already harnesses in the doors or do i have to run wires elsewhere for power? also will the electric motors for the windows fit behind the door panel or will i need a different door panel? thanks

You will have to add the wiring. I've never been impressed with the aftermarket power windows. The aftermarket power locks are pretty good though.

so for wiring all i would have to do is tap into a switched 12v somewhere?
i gathered a parts list so far and this is wut i have, window regulators with new motors, door panels, the switches, power lock kit, do i need anything else?

It depends on if you can get power windows on a base model from factory or not. If not then you are going to have a nightmare. Might be easier to put power windows out of an 02 or older truck.

how come i would have such a big headache? shouldnt everything just wire up and bolt into place?

LOL No. GM went to a data system in the 03+ trucks. The base models are quite different from the higher trim models. You would need drivers door module, passenger door module along with many other things to make it work. I would say it would be pretty much impossible to do. Unless of course GM offered power windows in base trucks then it would be not so hard.

Unless of course GM offered power windows in base trucks then it would be not so hard.
GM does offer power windows in a base model truck as SEO (5B5) - Power windows and mirrors ($738-$815), but that also requires RPO (AU3) Door locks, power programmable. I assume the upgrade includes the same wiring harness, etc. as the higher trim level.

so does that mean i can do it ?

Max Power

Wouldn't it be possible to have a "dumb" PW/PDL system like the old vehicles did by just using generic universal kits? Mount switches, motors and actuators, run wires to the doors and power it up.

If you got the basic sytem in, You could use an aftermarket alarm to gain keyless entry and maybe add a window roll up module.

I think it would be a tremendous amount of work, and pretty dang expensive. I'm thinking over a grand in just parts alone, and thats shopping conservatively. I guess it boils down to how bad do you want it.

What trim level is your truck? The very base model can have at least have locks without the databus.
P.271 of the upfitter electrical guide shows the power locks without the pdm/ddm

i have a 2005 2500 base model truck, no power locks, no power windows, no carpet, non folding armrest, you know the work truck. what is this data bus and computer stuff you guys are talkin about? dont these things work on switches and electricity anymore?

Max Power

Wouldn't it be possible to have a "dumb" PW/PDL system like the old vehicles did by just using generic universal kits? Mount switches, motors and actuators, run wires to the doors and power it up.

If you got the basic sytem in, You could use an aftermarket alarm to gain keyless entry and maybe add a window roll up module.

I think it would be a tremendous amount of work, and pretty dang expensive. I'm thinking over a grand in just parts alone, and thats shopping conservatively. I guess it boils down to how bad do you want it.
That would definately be possible. The aftermarket power window kits don't work all that nice but I think that is the only real option here.

well since we know its feasable to do, what exactly do i need to get this done?

catch2otwo ,

Before I get started, This is just my opinion. So if you do it and get a raw deal don't bllame me. Please do your own research befor hand.

Anyway, If I was in your position I would check here.

http://electric-life.com/main.asp

I just did a quick search and thats what I came up with. I don't know how good the stuff is, but based on the initial look at their site, it seems like they know what they are doing.

In addition to a PW and a PDL kit, I would look at getting a good remote start alarm to utilize keyless entry.

Now If I was going through all this, I would be sure to get a alarm with multiple aux channels, maybe a 6 channel rather than a 4, and get a PW roll up/down module. I would also want to be able to activate the high idle after I started it as well using the transmitter.

I think it is most definitely possible, and good luck to you.
If you do do this install, take lots of pics and document for us please.

Later

thanks Tb, i found the kit im going to use from A1 electric, ill be doing it when i get to go home in the summer, ill be sure to take lots of pics. Their install instructions seem to be pretty clear from what i can tell, so thanks for everyones help.

I think you'd need a BCM reflash too in addition to the DDM and PDM....

Tony may correct me if im wrong on that. These trucks (especially the 2003+ trucks) are so complicated and integrated electrically its quite hard to add electrical things unless the truck came with them from the factory :(

Ben

DURAtotheMAX, We were taking about doing a "dumb" system without a databus or BCM. Basicly accomplishing the task with 15 year old technology, using aftermarket add ons. But you are right, trying to install a factory system after the fact would be a nightmare.

I'd live with what it has rather than buy what could be a problem. Put the money aside toward the purchase of you next truck when you decide to trade and upgrade.

I did the same in my 05 crew cab. Like these guys said to make it work with factory system would be major and cost crazy money. I installed power windows and locks using aftermarket stuff with GM window regulators from ebay. A1 electric has decent aftermarket units as well. I used their MES power lock kit and it was easy to install. Power windows in the front is also an easy install. The main issue is where to mount the switches. I wanted them in the armrest and not the door panel so that added some work. Also, the Base model armrest is smaller and will fit less switches. This made the crew cab a problembecause of all the switches.

The back doors of the Crew cab are a nightmare. Most makers don't offer a good kit for this reason. The problem is the window motor is mounted where the speaker goes in the rear door panel. Why they moved the speaker location on the base truck is beyond me. I had to drill the rivets out on the motor and move it up on the track to make room for the speaker. There was also some jigsaw cutting of the door. The other option would have been to buy new door panels for the back doors from a power equiped model. The clearance is still tight after moving the motors up 5 inches. Cutting the switches into the armrest isn't that hard. I made a cardboard template to mark the location and used an exacto knife to cut the vinyl. Then drill a few holes and use a dremel tool with a round steel cutting/deburring bit to finish. It's a lot of work but it's not difficult if you have some skills. I'll take some pics and post them in the garage before I Dynamat the doors.

Heres the kicker. I lost the plastic threshold for the drivers side. It's not a small piece to loose so I can't figure it out. I looked everywhere. All the parts were in the back seat during the project. Also, this project will take 1 case of Heineken and two weekends to complete. Any more Heiniken will require more weekends to get it done.

Check out that link I ran accross. The motors they have run a cable or somthing in a loop driving a slined wheel at the other end. You put the slined end over the original crank inside the door panel and attch the motor where it fits best. This means you use all the factory window hardware and don't have to worry about things lining up perfectly.

thanks fellas, ill make sure i check out all the options before i start the project, still got a few months to go before i get to go home. thanks again

I put a couple of pics of the window/ lock install in my garage. The switches I used were for a 2000 Volvo V70 wagon. The drivers switch has a power lock button, on/off lockout for the rear windows, and auto down for the driver. The other 3 switches were rear door switches. The other picture shows the window motor of the rear door mounted higher than normal. You can also see where the lock actuator is mounted. The power window regulators were from an 05 Suburban. I used MetriPack 280 connectors throughout. The power locks are a MES kit from A1 Electric.

thanks daversj i sent u a pm

I have the power lock keyless entry actuators mounted in my doors now and that went pretty smooth. It was just too hard to reach the manual lock in the rear with the seat belt in the seat blocking it from the front. I haven't had time to do the wiring but the hardware was actually pretty easy. And I can confirm that there is NO extra wiring in the door. And yes EVERYTHING communicates with the databus like DTM and MP said.