Well, I finally drilled, tapped and installed my pyro probe yesterday! A major accomplishment in my book!http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


I then proceded to install my oil temp sender...I could not get the 8mm hex plug to break free from the oil filter head no matter what I did!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif I didn't want to break the filter head by using a cheater bar on the ratchet, but this thing wouldn't budge! What's the trick? Did GM use some type of thread lock on these things? If I use enough force to break it loose, will I risk cracking the housing itself?


Also, is the wastegate hose the black rubber hose, about a foot and a half or so long, that is located under the plastic resonator? Am I correct in assuming it is 1/4" I.D.? I think installing a tee in it for my boost gauge is going to be the best way for this bonehead, mechanic wanna-be to do it!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif


I'll sure be glad when I finish with these gauges!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif





Thanks,


Kevinhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gifhttp://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif

I'm bringing this back up, hoping for some responses.


Thanks,


Kevin

wastegate hose is 1/4" but it goes from thea actuator on the PS of the turbo to the outlet. there is little metal nipple coming out of the turbo housing on the outlet side that makes a sharp 90* turn then the hose connects to it. don't think my hose is 1.5 feet long tho.

Thanks DP,


Thats it...I wanted to verify before I spliced into it.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


What's your opinion on the oil port? Is there a risk of cracking the filter head, or can I just muscle it free? I was thinking if I ran the truck for a while and got it to operating temp, it may help some...Any suggestions?





Thanks,


Kevin

I've tugged pretty hard on a oil filter a couple times .... Might just take some leverage by way of cheater bar ... No jerking just steady pressure ... I'd imagine GM used sometype of sealent ...


Never taken one off tho ...


Mac Edited by: Mackin

wastegate hose is 1/4" but it goes from thea actuator on the PS of the turbo to the outlet. there is little metal nipple coming out of the turbo housing on the outlet side that makes a sharp 90* turn then the hose connects to it. don't think my hose is 1.5 feet long tho.


I just looked at the hose again as I was pulling the aFe intake to check the intake tube. The wastegate hose is only about 10" long, not 18".http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


Sometimes I am surprised I can even put fuel in this thing!http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif








KevinEdited by: Fireman

i've never removed the plug you're talking about.. sorry.

What plug are the people removing that install bypass oil filters?? I thought they were removing these hex headed plugs. If it is loctited in there, a little heat will help. Heat breaks down the epoxy lock compound quite well. You don't need much heat (a propane torch may do it, but maybe there is too much heat sink).


Maybe one of the great techs here know???

I removed the hex plug closest to the filter last week to install an oil pressure switch and it was very tight. I had to put my foot on it to break it loose. It did not damage anything but I put enough pressure on it that I was worried about it.

Why not tap for boost in the actual intake manifold..that way you see manifold pressure instead of pure turbo output...

What plug are the people removing that install bypass oil filters??* I thought they were removing*these hex headed plugs.* If it is loctited in there, a little heat will help.* Heat breaks down the epoxy lock compound quite well.* You don't need much heat (a propane torch may do it, but maybe there is too much heat sink).


bypass feed.
http://thumb2.webshots.com/s/thumb1/0/56/42/65005642hlJEYv_th.jpg
3/8 NPT pressurized oil port (http://community.webshots.com/photo/65003591/65005642hlJEYv)

When I got the plug out it had what looked like red loctite on it. I had the engine warm and used some Kanolabs (http://www.kanolabs.com/) Kroil penetrating oil (https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/kanopnlu.htm#anchor173855) to help it break it free (great stuff). The plug was definitely hard to break loose. I also tried to remove the larger plug on the drivers side of the oil filter adapter (through the wheel well) but after breaking a 3/8 drive hex in process I gave up and just used the plug on the bottom. The apparent purpose of the bottom 3/8 NPT port is access for an internal check valve. The valve's purpose appears to be a bypass/feed for the for the oil cooler (?) which is part of the full flow oil filter adapter. Before using this port as a feed for the bypass filter, I tested it with a mechanical oil pressure gauge and found that the valve opens and the port is pressurized instantly once the engine in running.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

This is where I installed my oil temp sender in the oil filter housing. Not a drop of oil spilled during the installation.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif The 10mm plug was a bear to get out though!http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif


http://mct.truckmoxie.com/gallery/Fireman/124484.jpg (javascript history.back();)





The temp gauge is working great.


Thanks to all for the help!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif











Kevinhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif