Sorry to bother you guys with yet another problem but i would like to straighten this one out.

The other day i changed all GP's as per the other thread, at that time i removed my secondary fuel filter setup also and removed the GP timer that was installed.

I ran the truck and warmed it up, it ran just friggen great, i went to the car wash and washed off the engine bay, ever since its been stumbling like crazy at idle. Here's the scoop...

Starts great so far, idles wonderfull untill it gets up to temp, as soon as it hits a certain temp (170'ish) it starts to stumble, pretty much sounds like a cammed up gasser, i have the dual hi idles on a switch also, either hi idle and it still stumbles pretty good. Shut it down and unplug the coolant sensor and it runs just fine at idle, put it in gear with the sensor plugged in and it hardly stumbles, runs great on the hiway in cruise or on the peddle, just stumbling on idle by itself, the ECT sensor is clean as a whistle, fuel rate at idle is 1-2mm when it's stumbling, (which is always). Did i get something wet at the car wash??? If you put any load on it, it runs great. Fuel pressure is 6.75 lbs at idle and that was through 2 filters, now its just 1 filter.

BTW, these old tires make some nice smoke... :lol: , made a nice slippery J the other day.

Sounds like its trying to go into TDC Offset learn mode...But if it was, and if it was staying there, then you would have tripped a 1214 Code.

Whats the idle fuel rate when its NOT stumbling? 1-2mm sounds a little odd...

Man CR I hate to hear that; Lord knows you been thur a nuff already... The only thing I can say is if you ever want to come down south to Texas for a "get-a-way" I'll make sure you'll have room and board with me. Sorry wish I could help more:o: .

I will have to check the fuel rate when its cold before it stumbles tomorrow and i'll also check with the ECT unplugged to see, let ya know then.
TDCO is -1.58 now, hasn't changed.

NEED SOME MOVIES!!!!

I wanna see what a fueled 18:1 will do:D !

NEED SOME MOVIES!!!!

I wanna see what a fueled 18:1 will do:D !

It will go like a mthr fker.... :lol:

But i really haven't pushed it yet. And remember its 7000 lbs!!

Edit: I weighed it today, 7560 lbs at the goverment hiway scale, half fuel load.

What does your timing do when it hits 170F? If ACT is dropping to ~3.5 or atleast considerably lower than it was at 169, then its a TDCO problem.

Can't see ACT numbers go there unless i run a time set command, it is always between 12-13 at idle on the AE scanner.

CR
Your welcome to my Snap-on scanner...if that will help, sorry about not hooking up last week,(read the PM too late) if you were in the fort, you would have damn near drove past my house to get home, I'm on the east side of Edm. 137ave and Victoria trail

It could be a short since washing the engine brought it on. ECT and IAT sensors are very sensative and reactive to volt surges, should be able to scan those values, try jiggling wires at ide with the scanner hooked up.

CR
Your welcome to my Snap-on scanner...if that will help, sorry about not hooking up last week,(read the PM too late) if you were in the fort, you would have damn near drove past my house to get home, I'm on the east side of Edm. 137ave and Victoria trail

I was on Victoria trail at one point, I can't remember my bro inlaws address but i probably was within a couple of blocks of you but i don't know Edmonton very well at all. Then we were out at the Fort for a couple of hours too. If you have room in your shop i might be able to make it up there sunday for a few hours to check some stuff out?

ECT and IAT problems would cause increase in idle fuel rates - CR indicated idle fuel rates of 1-2mm when 'stumbling'.

If high IAT\ECT caused PCM to reduce fuel, it would not do so at idle, but only at driving rpm ranges, where he indicates the engine runs well

In TDCO LEARN, PCM goes to backup mode and 1000rpm, which requires increased fuel rate over stock, which should be 7-10mm out of cold advance\fast idle

Best bet is to R&R all engine harness connectors and engine harness to PCM harness connectors, check for corrosion\oxidation\moisture.

Use the significant other's hair dryer to correct any damp situation.

Also check the main harness where it passes the lower AC tube into the firewall for chafing.

I don't know if this will help, but I was/am having the same problem and it turns out it is the tps. I would have replaced it, but it was 5 bills so I decieded to clean it first, I did and it runs much better. I had the same problems with the temp too, it ran fine cold and warm, but 170ish wasn't good in traffic

I don't know if this will help, but I was/am having the same problem and it turns out it is the tps. I would have replaced it, but it was 5 bills so I decieded to clean it first, I did and it runs much better. I had the same problems with the temp too, it ran fine cold and warm, but 170ish wasn't good in traffic

OK, heres the latest scoop and thanks for the info GMCTD.

With the ECT sensor plugged in the truck will start to stumble when temps get above 180F, i thought earlier that it would run fine with it unplugged at that temp but it stumbles with it unplugged also above 180F, it stumbles on both hi idles above that temp also, below 180 there is no stumble on idle or hi idles. Fuel rates on the above info bounces from 0-2mm.

Now here's the funny part, pull the truck into gear so it won't roll and the stumbling appears to be gone and fuel rate holds steady @ 2mm. Even though the fuel rates are low remember i'm flashed for the 5068 pump @ 92mm so they probably arent representative of the actual fuel rate, that still needs to be adjusted by Westers to read correct rates, but its steady @ 2mm and no stumbling.

Here's something else i've found and maybe can be pointed in the right direction to fix it. When looking at the engine parameters its saying the ignition voltage is 25.5V, gotta be something wrong there, scanner reported correct voltage before on the ignition?

The scanner also display's ignition voltage in the tranny parameters and when reading it there its @ 13.7V. These reading must come from different circuits?

What can i do to trouble shoot the ignition to see why its reporting such hi voltages?

Here's a shot of the weather i'm working in so i'm not doing to much until i get home or to Nicks. lol

Must be something in the IP - PCM monitors idle on a per-cyl basis, altering Fuel Rate to maintain steady rpm.

That per-cyl control is seen on the scanner as minor FR variation at idle.

Put a load on engine, as with AC or shift into any gear range, PCM alters fuel rate such that idle speed does not drop.

Now, it would appear as though the IP is over reacting to PCM idle control when not loaded, causing excess idle rpm variation to which PCM then over reacts, causing missing\stumbling, but smoothing out under load.

Could also be bad fuel, or cloudy fuel - don't know what type of problems were encountered, causing Stanadyne to discontinue that 5068 IP

TDCO looks good, so maybe you should just drive it for a week or so - don't tweak or relearn, don't mess with the mix - let driveability parameters soak in .

Don't let it idle in Park or Nuetral for the next week, since it smooths out when in a gear range, and keep an eye on trans temps

What about the 25V ignition reading?

What about the 25V ignition reading? it's doubtful but your batteries are hooked up correctly aren't they. in parallel or in series. one would give a reading of say 12.? volts or 24.? volts.

Everything else reads +/-13v both with the scanner, the dash gauge (14ish) and the inverter i use.

Flux invertor? I thought you had a flux convertor.

We know your paralleled batteries are not putting out +24v, so that must be a bug, barring any other logical explanation, of course.

May be those are metric volts, eh?

OK, tonight i drove home (1.45 hrs). Took off the upper plenim, checked all plug ins, good and dry, checked return line off the IP to the tank and blew compressed air through it, good, changed my FSD to a spare and fired it up again. Still stubles once up to temp. WTF?

Heres a pic of the glow plug timer i took out, that relay on the left wasn't suppose to stay for anything was it? I never got directions with it as i didn't put it in and DAS never gave me any info on it.

No, but it would make a good relay to kick all four headlights on when on bright.

Time for a sound clip.

Encoder (optic) measures fuel temp also

Maybe bumping optic back a little might help.

Still not a fan of the 5068 pump on your application

Fuel temps seem to be acting normal according to the scanner, don't remember the temps of hand but they warmed up with the engine.

I have another relay for the head lights..... if i ever get the time to do it.

Below op temp PCM is in cold advance\fast idle mode with increased fuel rate, so engine runs well.

Op temp calls for reduced advance, reduced fuel rate, engine stumbles with indicated 1-2mm fuel rate - again, may be the 5068 Inj Pump acting squirrelly in cold ambients.

PCM is calling for - Des - 12deg, IP is responding with - Act - 12 deg, so it would appear that all - or most - is functional.

Need a warm day - over 80deg - for comparo.

Maybe bumping optic back a little might help.

Still not a fan of the 5068 pump on your application

Never been bumped that i know of, ran like a top till the first blow up, ran pretty darn good until the above stated changes also. Just went for **** when i washed it.

Can the stepper motor jam up and not throw a code that will cause stumbling and low fuel rates?

5068 pump the optic is bumped way over from conventional normal pumps.

no, stepper motor either works or doesn't. Probably throw code and show no advance or stuck adv.

move the optic and the rate would have to increase and might put you back to a better setup

Observe the TSM control rod while the engine is running, see if it is oscillating slightly.

I looked at it yesterday while it was stumbling, it wasn't moving from what i could see. Have to check it with someone on the go peddle.

CR,

You wouldn't happen to have a relay setup to isolate the OPS and lift pump, would you?

I have another relay for the head lights..... if i ever get the time to do it.

If you figure out how to do this mod while still having the DRLs work like normal let me know. My electrical engineering buddies couldn't figure it out ):h

TSM actuator should move up and down slightly at idle, moreso when app is moved to increase rpm.

At any rate, indicated Act timing will follow Des timing if functional

If you figure out how to do this mod while still having the DRLs work like normal let me know. My electrical engineering buddies couldn't figure it out ):h

Mr.Tailight shows you how> actually easier than it looks.

http://www.mrtaillight.com/product_info.php?cPath=391_393&products_id=544&osCsid=4d29846c96faeedc4b88d93606b86e6a

Mr.Tailight shows you how> actually easier than it looks.

http://www.mrtaillight.com/product_info.php?cPath=391_393&products_id=544&osCsid=4d29846c96faeedc4b88d93606b86e6a

Actually that method kicks out the DRLs on the Canadian trucks. Even Mr. Taillights has said that they can't find a fix for our DRLs up here. Thanks though.

ON EDIT - The link you provided is for the NBS anyways.

Stepper moves smoothly with the accelarator peddle...

Bet you gotta bunch of Cylinder Balance DTC's stored.............

Maybe bumping optic back a little might help.

Still not a fan of the 5068 pump on your application


when I first did my optic bump, I moved it in the wrong direction. I moved the bracket that bolts down on the optic sensor instead of the sensor itself. In effect, the bump went in the wrong direction.

I while trying to restore it to the original position (without a scanner), I got it to the point where the idle was very rough, like a high lift cam in a 454. The tech at the dealership set the tdco by rotating the pump. He got it perfect, but since the optic sensor was off, the rough idle persisted.

Adjusting the optic sensor smoothed out the idle.

Your idle is probably good on warm up because timing is altered in warm up mode.

I'm not the guy to tell you what adjustments to make, but I suspect that rough idle is related to the position of the optic sensor. Forget what timing and tdco #'s you have. You can have perfect #'s, but if the optic sensor is not set right, you'll have issues.

Once the optic sensor is set right, I suspect you'll see some added power.

when I first did my optic bump, I moved it in the wrong direction. I moved the bracket that bolts down on the optic sensor instead of the sensor itself. In effect, the bump went in the wrong direction.

I while trying to restore it to the original position (without a scanner), I got it to the point where the idle was very rough, like a high lift cam in a 454. The tech at the dealership set the tdco by rotating the pump. He got it perfect, but since the optic sensor was off, the rough idle persisted.

Adjusting the optic sensor smoothed out the idle.

Your idle is probably good on warm up because timing is altered in warm up mode.

I'm not the guy to tell you what adjustments to make, but I suspect that rough idle is related to the position of the optic sensor. Forget what timing and tdco #'s you have. You can have perfect #'s, but if the optic sensor is not set right, you'll have issues.

Once the optic sensor is set right, I suspect you'll see some added power.

I HAVE NOT TOUCHED THE OPTIC SENSOR!!! IDLES FINE COLD, IDLES ROUGH WARM.
RAN JUST FINE BEFORE CHANGING GLOW PLUGS, REMOVING SECOND FUEL FILTER, CHANGING PMD, ADDING HIGH IDLE CONTROL AND TAKING IT TO THE CAR WASH!

I have since grounded the battery's to the block and grounded the battery's in a couple of different spots, no change. I have checked all connectors at the IP under the plenim, still have to check them at the glow plug controler. The LP is running as per factory set-up, no relays or nothing to fool with it. Fuel pressure when not running was 6.75 lbs, it runs pretty good on the hiway, just stumbles at idle.

Maybe the optic moved when i hit the pump with the car wash gun :D

Bet you gotta bunch of Cylinder Balance DTC's stored.............

Scanner show's stored (History i think) and cleared codes unless that aint working, also captures snapshot data, its clean as a whistle whenever i check it. SES has never come on either, except when the old GP timer was in it.

Well I guess your pump is bad if you don't want to move the optic.

Cyl Bal DTC's do not set MIL, but store only in HISTORY registers.

See how it runs over this next week.

Any chance the Hi IDle installation got fnorked up?

Cyl Bal DTC's do not set MIL, but store only in HISTORY registers.

See how it runs over this next week.

Any chance the Hi IDle installation got fnorked up?

Don't think so, it works like it should and if you hit the brake or put it in gear it goes to normal idle. I also disconnected the wires at the toggle switch to see if that was causing it and jiggled everything at the back of the ECM. I changed the fuel filter today, cleaned the bowl, fixed up some buggered wiring job that DAS did with the GP timer at the controler and checked all the wires back there too. Checked the wires below the a/c too, i'm at a bloody loss here now.

Diesel Pro

I sometimes have trouble trying to decifer if your being sarcastic or giving good advice, this would be the reason i haven't bumped the optic as i thought you were screwing with me because of the 5068 pump in my application.

How the heck would it idle fine before and not now?

When just cruising normal down the hiway on flat ground around 70 ish the truck will also appear to drop out of lock-up for a few seconds and then lock-up again, it does this really often on flat ground. I've noticed that the calculated load at that time goes from 1% to 0% when it does this. Always stays in lock-up when the load is 2% or better. To me it seems the truck isn't working at all when cruising down the hiway and feels that way too. Its like there's more power than needed to keep it cruising if that makes any sense. Goes into complete lock-up on any slight up grade and drops a couple hundred rpm? Goes out of lock-up on the slightest down grade, i mean so slight you can't even tell your going down hill.

When just cruising normal down the hiway on flat ground around 70 ish the truck will also appear to drop out of lock-up for a few seconds and then lock-up again, it does this really often on flat ground.

This was a symptom of an optic bumped too far iirc wasn't it???

I have a Quick-time movie file i'll email to anyone that wants a listen and look see, just PM me your email address, its only 2.4 megs.

This was a symptom of an optic bumped too far iirc wasn't it???

Dunno, your memory must be better than mine, i'm getting old. :D

Maybe it "bumped" itself? Maybe the optic sensor is loose an it has moved durring run time?

Maybe it "bumped" itself? Maybe the optic sensor is loose an it has moved durring run time?

Seeings TDG had his hands on it last won't that P!ss him off. Damn thing can't have anymore than 8k on it.

Maybe it "bumped" itself? Maybe the optic sensor is loose an it has moved durring run time?

Incoming email dude!

[quote=CanadianRigger;990177]Diesel Pro

I sometimes have trouble trying to decifer if your being sarcastic or giving good advice, this would be the reason i haven't bumped the optic as i thought you were screwing with me because of the 5068 pump in my application.

How the heck would it idle fine before and not now?

**********************************************

Never can tell about free advice. Really can't tell about "before and not now" deal. l Got to go with my uncanny ability to decipher these things.

Thinking the optic is just a tad to far over. When the ecm. asks for the low idle delivery the thing starts the injection on the wrong part of the camring and you get the stumble. I'm just guessing. I am thinking the computer says "Hey,I want you to idle at 600" and the computer keeps cutting the fuel back till it idles there. Only problem is your pump is putting out to much, so it cuts back to the point where it can't control it any more because it's not in the normal parameters of control.

I hope this explains things as I see it. And I am purely guessing as I have no experience in such odd behavior on a normal 6.5l.

Now where was the joke I was going to stick in here?

Pump has more miles on it going back and forth, than the engine has running.:)

Same as the 5521 for the bump? Instead of hiding the scribe mark make it even more visible, if its even there?

Seeings TDG had his hands on it last won't that P!ss him off. Damn thing can't have anymore than 8k on it.
Pretty much impossible for it to move itself...

Here's my case, when I built that pump, I knew it was going to CR, so I knew it was going on a '00 truck that belonged to a person on this website which he and I both frequent. I am always very thorough and nit picky with my DS's, since I knew that everyone on the web was going to be reading about how this one worked out, I made sure it was absolutely top notch.

Setting the Optic sensor is about the only critical setting there is, and I definitely did not set it 'hot' at all, I never do.

But still, Fuel Rates in the 0-2mm range at warm idle are much too low.
And normally, I admit, it would point directly to a pump problem.
BUT, since this has a PCM that's been reflashed to work with a different IP it's really tough to call.

But before you people start PMing Lyndon, hear me out, I'm not pointing the finger at him at all. Lyndon and I have been having a lot of correspondence lately about some programming ideas and I'll try and figure out some more of what he changed to try and pinpoint this problem.

Of course I don't think that its a pump problem, but unfortunately, it is a DS pump, which seems to be at the nexus for murphy's law, let's not forget how much warranty work Stanadyne and GM ate because of it. So, anything could happen, and because CR is trying to do so much so right, it will probably happen to him, sorry Russel, I will be doing everything I can from here.

In the mean time, I think that DieselPro is on the right track. You should probably do a reverse bump to the optic and even I am confident at this point that it will fix your problem.

Its a compatibility issue, detuning the pump will make it a little less sensitive and will probably help your kicking out of lockup problem too.

Gee Thanks! Never said it was a problem with the pump. I too think it's a compatibility issue. Un-bump it a little.

Engine is so dam efficent "Rigger" is going to have to start pumping fuel out to keep the fuel from pouring out the tank after he drives it. Already idling on nothing and now it wants to unlock the convertor because it's coasting to fast.

Lol

Brain fart here... I just remembered something but don't know if its relevant or not.

Not sure if this would make a difference at idle or not but thought it should be mentioned. When i changed the PMD the first time it had a #4 or #5 resistor in it, i swapped it out for the #9 and every time i've changed it since i've been putting in the #9. Would that make this thing stumble at idle? And if so what do i do for it to recognise it when i change the resistor back to 4 or 5?

I don't think it would matter CR. The thing will actually run without a resistor at all, although it would throw a code. I think it relearns the new value every 50 on/off cycles.

I think this all might stem from the hi-idle thingy you did, take it out, give it a try.

I think this all might stem from the hi-idle thingy you did, take it out, give it a try.

Well i pretty much eliminated that by taking off the wires from the switch, only thing i didn't do was pull them out of the back of the ECM, but did do lots of the wiggly thingy there with no change.

FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fuel rate at idle is now a steady 3 with the odd bounce to 4mm!!!!!!!!!

YIPEE!!!!

Now maybe i can get back to mods. :D

WELL? Don't keep us in suspense:badidea:

move the optic and the rate would have to increase and might put you back to a better setup

DO NOT DO THIS.

Lyndon
www.ecmprogrammer.com (http://www.ecmprogrammer.com)
Westers Garage

Didja jump the bump past the hump?

I didn't move the optic, never even went close to it Lyndon. I wanted to eliminate other possibility's first and it worked.

I didn't move the optic, never even went close to it Lyndon. I wanted to eliminate other possibility's first and it worked.

Good man...
Resistor was the culprit ?

Lyndon
www.ecmprogrammer.com (http://www.ecmprogrammer.com)
Westers Garage

TDG originally indicated using lower number resistor with the bump, closer to #1, to improve idle

Good man...
Resistor was the culprit ?

Lyndon
www.ecmprogrammer.com (http://www.ecmprogrammer.com)
Westers Garage

YES, you hit the nail right on the head there.

After getting home last night i took out the #9 resistor and put in the #5 i had, i never started the truck after that until this morning, it sat in a 70F garage all night.

When i fired it up in the morning it barked, farted, blew black smoke and ran rough for a bit, shut it down, restarted and it ran fairly good but still stumbled when warmed up. After driving to work and a few restarts and 1 TDCO command it is idling pretty much 100% now, even on the hi idle switches. :cool:

I still have a #4 resistor and was wondering if i should go to that one?

Guys please help me out. How in god's name is the resistor the problem?

I am guessing here but think it was confusing the ECM in some way, i would think it more specific to my 5068 reflash combo than a normal pump, resistor allowing more fuel, ECM says no and cuts back, ECM argues constantly and keeps cutting fuel to maintain a desired RPM, stumble, stumble, stumble...

But i'm sure someone here will have a much better explanation than i could possibly give.

Congrats Russel!!

Get some damn VIDEO going now :D

Will do as soon as i have the time, Chicago has a video of the hard stumbling but with work and all i just haven't had to much time for that stuff yet.

BOOST IT!!!!!!!!!

BOOST IT!!!!!!!!!

I had a cracked boost pressure line to my gauge the other day, i thought i was running 15 PSI max, but it appears now its 17 PSI but only on a hard stab. Runs constant from 10 -12 on the hiway as it sits.

I'm not going any higher for awhile yet, may actually turn it down a hair....
Why?
Cause i'm SCARED AS HELL!! :badidea:

:D lol, in time, just get miles on it and when you get down to Chicago thi summer, we will open em up.

drag strip is only about 35 miles away, I'll race you there;) .

....I'm glad its 'better' for now, but I'm not convinced yet that its really fixed.

My understanding is that resistor value does not affect idle characteristics or apparent fuel rate. But now that I think about it, on the test bench when the computer is determining and testing resistor value, there is a run @ 600RPM and ~12mm which would be Low Idle. So perhaps it does...

I also was under the impression that the Reflashed PCM would ignore resistor value and always assume that #9 was present anyway.

I am under the impression the computer won't recognize a different resistor until so many crank cycles have elapsed. That's why when a PMD is installed without a resistor the engine runs fine with no codes till later after the cycles have elapsed. So are we sure this is it???
What cycle are you on? AC or DC?

What cycle are you on? AC or DC?

??

this has been an interesting thread to follow. I guess those resistors don't like water too much. Would it be okay to use dielectric grease on the pmd connection? This would help protect the resistor from the next engine wash.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Glad to hear it's running better.

What cycle are you on? AC or DC?

hmmm....what cycle are we talking about??......bi- motor- menstral- ?

this has been an interesting thread to follow. I guess those resistors don't like water too much. Would it be okay to use dielectric grease on the pmd connection? This would help protect the resistor from the next engine wash.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Glad to hear it's running better.

It would have been near imposible to get water in mine the way its located inside the fender well. It was also dry when removed.

A good rule of thumb to follow is not to wash those engines off. The tighter clearances in the injection pump can actually cause components to 'seize' by a sudden temperature change. Never EVER p-wash a hot engine.
Water intrusion can follow wiring a long way--and sometimes ends up really hard to find. Make sure all weather pack seals are good--and hopefully, nothing was backprobed.
Because we're still running sub-weather right now, evaporation rates aren't the same...so hopefully you actually found the problem, and it wasn't something else.

Lyndon
www.ecmprogrammer.com (http://www.ecmprogrammer.com)
Westers Garage

Aside from the dangers to the pump, water on a hot turbocharger or exhaust manifold can cause it to crack too.

Hmmmm.... guess the only way to know if that was it for sure is to swap the #9 back in then huh?

Hmmmm.... guess the only way to know if that was it for sure is to swap the #9 back in then huh?

With the sh!tcloud that follows you around bud, DON'T! :badidea:

I gots to know:grd:

Yep. Don't-ja just hate back'n up your stuff with facts when you know your right and everybody else is wrong?

Now on to the good stuff! Let's see some tire smoke.

I finally got around to changing my resistor back to a #9 from the #5 i had in it, the truck was up to temp before the 2 minute change. Truck ran fine...... initially....

It took about 15 min's with about 5 or 6 key cycles to learn the new resitor when all of a sudden it started to stumble just as it had before. I let it run this way for 10-15 minutes with some more key cycles but it ran the same each time (stumbling like crazy).

So hey i figure stumbles with a #9, runs good with a #5.... lets try no resistor! Stumbled until it relearned that there was no resistor in it again, once it relearned there wasn't a resistor it took off to 1300 rpm and stayed there :wtf: , when i stabbed the peddle it would thow some black/gray smoke, did a few restarts and throttle stabs but it just settled back to 1300 rpm each time... weird.

So i just happened to also have a #4 resistor with me, i put that one in and on immediate start it ran smooth again, running fine so far and i don't plan on taking out the #4 for awhile.

Maybe this info can help a little from the programming end, maybe not. Dunno if this would be applicable to another pump model or the stock ECM but maybe it might help someone to diagnose some stumbling with the #9 resistors?? Fuel rate at idle is 4mm and steady.:cool:

CR, that is bizarre. I wonder if it is an idiosyncracy of the pump or reflash?

Glad you solved your dilemma, but it just raises more questions, for me.

Could ole steak sauce be right?

Does his dash-mounted fuel control really work?

Have we mis-advised millions of seeking forum-ites?

Are we really just........trolls?

Nah!..........a man's gotta know his limitations, and he don't!

I dunno but anyone got one of those controlers to send me, i'd give it a go and see if it makes the same differences i've experienced with using diff resistors.

Isnt it the same device used to make a boost fooler? a certain ohm potentiometer that is wired in series that can be adjusted to change the output voltage?

NOt sure myself. It would have to wire into the plug to the PMD and have the ability to change resistor values with the turn of the knob wouldn't it??

Washed the truck today..... and the engine...

No stumbling.... lol

I hate to admit it, I have washed mine before, BUT, I always turn it off and let it sit in the driveway for an hour then I hit it with the Pressure Washer.

Never had a probelm with restarts

Boy CR I missed this fun while I was away; you sure got me puzzled, I've run with resistors, without resistors, swapped up and down by the number and never got what you have going on. Lyndon you do some voodoo in yor program where the PCM does a quick relearn of resistor value. Guess next time I'm over by my injection pump buddys shop we have some experimenting to do, sure got me stumped

Honest TD, thats exactly how it happened. Found it plain ole weird to run 1300 rpm without one in it. And it does relearn it within about 15 min's and a couple of key cycles, dunno if it was the time or key cycles that did it. On one of the changes i didn't even do a TDCO.

Thing that has me puzzled was it learned the #4 on the first start, idle went to normal.:confuzeld

Rigger has a newer vehicle than most. It might just be a faster learner. However, the driver sometimes learns it the hard way. Or so I've been told.:)