I'm going to finally get around to installing my SPA boost/egt gauge. The problem or question is where can I find a racheting type T handle large enough to hold a 1/4-18 NPT tap?? What has everyone who has installed probe on exhaust manifold with engine running used to hold/work tap?? Thanks for any input.

32ports


I used a 9mm box wrench to tap mine... all you have to do is give the end of the tap quite a bit of pressure with your finger to get the thread started, then just hold down on the end of the tap while you turn the wrench... I just did it today and that's the way I did it... It was pretty easy, just have to have a little patience... make sure the engine is running and you get a good amount of grease on both the drill bit and tap, just in case some shavings try to find their way into the exhaust manifold... Good luck.


Dan

I used a 3/8" drive ratchet and a socket to fit over the head of the tap. I had plenty of leverage without really exerting a lot of force, which made it easier for me to control the process. One thing I did, and I think Hoot mentions it in his instructions, is to tap a little then back it out and try the NPT fitting, going in just a bit farther each time until you get to the depth you want.

TC

How do you keep the metal shavings out of the motor?

run the motor ad idle while you're doing it...


if you're really concerned you can take the manifold offhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

Just how difficult is it for a to remove the manifold? http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif


Has anyone ever heard of someone having shavings fall inside the manifold when drilling/tapping with the engine running?








Thanks,


Kevinhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Drill and tap while it's running. The chips blow out and it doesn't get that hot. After you're done it's anticlimactic.

Here are Directions (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=946&PN=1)

http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/egt/egt2.jpg

If you can find an 8 point socket it works realy well also. I don't remember the size off the top of my head. I had to go and buy one due to the fact all I own is 6&12 point sockets.

Wear safety glasses while doing this. You get the Star Wars hyperdrive effect once you break through with the chips blowing out at you. Safety first.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Tap it while its running.


If this office worker can do it, anyone can!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

Thanks everyone...I'll do it a-la-hoot method!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Just a couple of final questions...


What brand/type of drill bits, and taps are the best to use, and where can I get them?


Thanks again!


Kevinhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

Just how difficult is it for a to remove the manifold? http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif


Has anyone ever heard of someone having shavings fall inside the manifold when drilling/tapping with the engine running?





Has anyone removed the manifold and are there any gaskets to replace?

Thanks everyone...I'll do it a-la-hoot method!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Just a couple of final questions...


What brand/type of drill bits, and taps are the best to use, and where can I get them?


Thanks again!


Kevinhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif








I found the bits, fluid, tap & T-handle for the tap at Sears (Craftsman http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif)

Just how difficult is it for a to remove the manifold? <IMG id=chkImg1 alt="Click on image to open in new window" src="http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif" name=chkImg2>
Has anyone ever heard of someone having shavings fall inside the manifold when drilling/tapping with the engine running?



Has anyone removed the manifold and are there any gaskets to replace?



The gaskets are re-usable.Edited by: hoot

The easy part is the drilling and tapping. My question is: How in gods name do you access that part of the exhaust manifold? I can turn the wheel left, right or remove it, but how does one remove the wheelwell plastic cover. It has several plastic rivet-like fasteners, but I can't get to all of them inside the engine compartment without removing many many parts above it. Is it harder than it looks?


Please help, Ray

Rayzi, the plastic fasteners for the passenger fender liner are all accessed from the wheelwell. you pry up the center section of the fastener with a flat screwdriver and then can pull the whole fastener out. There's a small metal clip under the headlight. There's one big plastic "dart" over in the front lower that has no center and is a bugger to work out. You'll also see a couple of gray stems in the top of the liner that are holding wiring harnesses down under the coolant overflow tank - push these out from the inside of the fender liner while you're in there. The whole liner comes out and you can access and drill the manifold without removing the wheel. Liner goes back in in the reverse order and the fasteners push and lock right back into place. This is also a very good access for changing out the fuel filter. I have installed riv-nuts and replaced my plastic fasteners with 1/4-20 bolts and washers.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

Hoot, great instructions on the EGT tap!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


I not real clear on how far to tap the hole. Do we run the tap all the way through the hole or do we stop just prior to the hole being 100% threaded.


Thanks again for the great info!

Not to steep on hoots question but you tap and then check the fitting depth. This is how I did mine. Run the fitting in to see if you need more depth on the tap. I did this till the fitting would set almost flush with the manifold with alittle wrench pressure.

NoWake, the NPT (National Pipe Thread) tap is tapered. The further you tap, the larger the hole will be in diameter. The cast iron in the manifold where you are tapping is only about 1/8" thick, you will cut threads almost immediately, but if you over-tap you will make a hole that will allow the fitting to pass through into the manifold without getting tight!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif You will only need to run the tap in between 1/2 and 3/4 of the teeth on the tap. It's very good to stop and trial fit the fitting - I do not recommend tapping until the fitting is near flush - that gets you close to pass-through AND puts more obstruction into the manifold. My fitting is tightened up about halfway up the threaded section on the fitting. I ran the probe all the way in until it touched the back side and then backed it out about 1/2" before tightening to ensure that the tip of the pyro was in the center of the manifold.

Not to steep on hoots question but you tap and then check the fitting depth. This is how I did mine. Run the fitting in to see if you need more depth on the tap. I did this till the fitting would set almost flush with the manifold with alittle wrench pressure.


I believe that's all in the DYI article. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif

DYI??????????????????? come on HOOT


Geno

Guys thanks for the info.....just want to have everything in my little head right before I do it!


Thanks again!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif