The engine is bolted in, might be running tomorrow afternoon.
It's real fun trying to get the Holset bolted up, first off it has a 4" inlet to the compressor, not worky so good with the factory 3" inlet, had to do some plumbing. Then there's the flange style outlet on the compressor to the IC tubing, well that don't work either, had to remove the compressor housing and grind the flange down to near the same OD as the outlet so the Kennedy IC piping and hoses would fit, i think i got it but won't know till i take the turbo back to the shop tomorrow. And BTW, you guy's are scaring me with the cracked blocks in the other thread! :(

Hope she works out for ya, we need to see some smokey 6.5 burnouts in the video section. Did you check to see if that diamond is in the valley? I did some more checking and found that your blocks casting number is the same as the GM one that you had before, the same as all of the 506 GM blocks. I couldn't find anything to really decifer it, but it looks as though you have a late GM casting from all of the identifying marks and stampings. The main casting number breakdowns are for the hummer blocks and not the trucks.

My NEW block says 506 on it BUT it has the Diamonds all over it.

Sorry about the turbo CR. I had forgetten about the 4" inlet and the outlet configurating. Hope you made it through everything OK and are progressing. You getting that turbo all bolted up?

IS IT GREEN YET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?

IS IT GREEN YET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?
You can always go with the color my buddy used on his JEEP engine. RUBY RED(although he calls it labia red:eek: , pretty close match actually):h ), it's a cross between red and purple. Really stands out, even to the blind:lol: .

I thought you were doing it this weekend!!!!!!! Cause i was going to come down tommorrow at 12 be there by 2:30, kid has a hockey game in morning

I thought you were doing it this weekend!!!!!!! Cause i was going to come down tommorrow at 12 be there by 2:30, kid has a hockey game in morning

Thanks but the shop the truck was at is putting it in and i talked em into working saturday, i'm just getting the turbo stuff ready to fit, truck was already there anyways, just gonna cost me some more $$$ to work them saturday.

ok but i want to see video and pics of it lol

Other bad news today was no triple shock towers for the front, they quit making them as they were having troubles with them... damn it, just have to go plain ole 6" lift then.

it still is better then stock CR

Cr the trailer you haul with your truck what does it weight in at. And have you ever pulled it up the Dunvegon on the way to Fairview??

Dunno where that is. Trailer is 7000, truck is 7000, last steep grade about 8% x 11 km's = BOOM!

Hiway 2 north of Grande Prairie Just pass Rycroft. And where was that 8% grade you were on?

Other bad news today was no triple shock towers for the front, they quit making them as they were having troubles with them... damn it, just have to go plain ole 6" lift then.

that's a good thing. if they were having trouble with them, you don't want them. IMO double and triple shock setups are strictly for show. If you need better damping, all you have to do is buy a better shock.

Have you looked at King shocks? They can custom make anything for you and they have a remote reservoir. They look pretty cool, too.

8% grade on hiway 24 just behind Little Fort, its a MONSTER and a truck killer, tow truck driver said he gets plenty of business from that hill. Theres another MONSTER coming out of Ossoyous (sp?) too.

Chicago

Whats that boost canister set to move at on the Holset. I hooked up some air with a good gage and it doesn't start to move until 30 PSI, moves fully at 40 PSI. I'm thinking EGP should help it before that but thats kinda hi?

Boost pressure assists EBP in opening the WG - set to about 18psi stock.

Get a small air pressure regulator, plumb it in to the dash panel, connected between intake manifold and the WG servo, and Voila! - you got adjustable Boost pressure.:cool:

BTW - you could have at least power-washed the engine bay before you stuck that clean piece of machinery down in there.........................:eek: -:t

tough to power wash the engine bay sitting in a garage parking lot covered in snow.

Melt some snow - make some water...........;)

Boost pressure assists EBP in opening the WG - set to about 18psi stock.

Get a small air pressure regulator, plumb it in to the dash panel, connected between intake manifold and the WG servo, and Voila! - you got adjustable Boost pressure.:cool:

BTW - you could have at least power-washed the engine bay before you stuck that clean piece of machinery down in there.........................:eek: -:t

Thanks GMCTD, that is correct, I have mine set at 25 psi by adjusting the threaded rod part. You need to just tap in to the intake and out a 3/16 hose barb and hose to the canister to get ur assisted boost pressure that will help open the canister. That regulator idea is a good way of having a boost controller too.

Well i don't want to be putting anymore than 10 PSI to this thing for the first while.
Also the DP didn't fit right, were unable to get the bolts in the back as the DP was hitting the exhaust manifold, had to egg the DP some to fit without hitting the manifold, one DP bolt can't be tightened into the back of the turbo without the turbo off either. Still working on 1 bolt under the turbo too, tough to get at to bolt it up. All of this was expected with trying something new though.
Chicago what did you do to run to the air filter, i've been able to make up some plumbing pipe but unable so far to figure out how to run the CDR yet, might have to do that later once i get it home.

Then you'll need to use CDP's method -

Connect Boost pressure hose to the actuator, and adjust the rod longer for less Boost.

Plumbing is in place for the boost to the cannister, just 'T'd into my gauge line, that was the easy part. Will have to watch boost on first fire to see where its at. I'm hoping Chicago was conservative and set it low by a measurement on his set-up.

CR, you should be able to bolt up the DP just fine, that studded bolt, the bottom one, has to be threaded first.

To keep the DP from hitting the exhaust manifold, you might have to "rotate" the exhaust housing on the turbo by loosening those 4 14 mm stainless bolts. That is how I did it on mine and set up urs the same way. You might want to loosen that rod a little more too on the actuator, you have WAY more fuel then me, that just mite make u way more boost, or it really should no matter what. Just to be safe

Nope, DP wouldn't fit, but with a little pressing on the bench to clear the manifold......... all is in now and all is well, didn't have to egg it to terrible, just between a 1/4- 1/2 ". Loosened the rod real good, hit 10 PSI with little effort, around town she stays at 0 - 1 PSI, i won't go above that now as i'm what you would call CHICKEN. Have to get the exhaust fabbed up on monday and do some intake and CDR work.