Anybody running the standard Bilstein shocks (like what Kennedy sells) with green keys and 2" rear blocks? Wanna upgrade my shocks, but keep the option of green keys open (and avoiding buying another set of shocks). I can't find the spec's on stock shocks, or Bilstein shocks to see if that will work. Some people say they work fine, other people have told me you may over-extend the shock.


--Rob

Until I put on my Rancho lift last week, I was running Hill 4WD keys set at 2" and 1" blocks in the rear, with Bilsteins. The ride was great. I did have one inch spacers under the top shock mount. I think you can get away with having the shock an inch or two from it's center, but any more than that it doesn't dampen as well and the ride gets rougher.


If somebody made a shock that was 2-3" longer than stock, then a guy could crank the T-bars 3" with appropriate keys, drop the yellow bump stop springs the proper amount, flip the tie rods, and install 1.5 to 2" blocks in the rear and have a 3" lift with a good ride that wouldn't cost all that much. However, nobody is yet making such a shock.


Blaine

afp1,


Just a thought, you can buy those aftermarked shock mounts that convert our stem type top mount into an eylet type. That unit appears to drop the shock about 1-2".


LA DMAX

I read somewhere that people were using shocks for the H2 with the 2" key lifts. The H2 shocks were supposed to be 2" longer. Anyone else have any info on this?

Sorry for the dumb question .......... what are "green keys"

Keys are related to the torsion bars on the front end of the truck. Different coloured one let you raise the truck more than others. Basically if you went to a "green key" it would allow more height from the front end of your truck as it starts off in a higher postion right off the bat, than the stock keys would be maxed out. Saves getting a lift kit, if all your after is a little higher stance or cram a bigger tire under the fenders. Don't think you have to be concerned as your lifting one and the other is slammed. You coming down to souther ontario soon??? Man would my truck look good with duals!!!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


BTW i looked in your signature and it doesn't say what exhaust you are running???? Is it a secrethttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifEdited by: heartbeatcanada

Rob, I'm running the Bilsteins w/ the green keys - no issues thus far.


There should be no change in shock as a result of the green keys since the travel hasn't changed - only the static point (of the shock) when riding level. They would (should?) still bottom out/fully compress at the same position (relative to the suspension system) regardless of the green key or stock. If the shocks are correct for a 2500HD, then they should be fine for a 2" torsion bar lift too...


Some people have mentioned that the Bilsteins operate better at "the middle", but I've yet to see real proof of that...


Edit: Quit asking questions and get working on that axleshaft for me!!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gifEdited by: Joe E

<snip>


If somebody made a shock that was 2-3" longer than stock, then a guy could crank the T-bars 3" with appropriate keys, drop the yellow bump stop springs the proper amount, flip the tie rods, and install 1.5 to 2" blocks in the rear and have a 3" lift with a good ride that wouldn't cost all that much. However, nobody is yet making such a shock.


Blaine





FWIW, another fellow told me he experimented with flipping the tie rods, and it made the truck handle very dangerously. It would veer sharply (unintentionally) when changing lanes, etc.


I think the bulletproof tie rods would work best, since they have some drop designed into them so the tie rod ends are at a better angle. Too bad they come with a heim joint setup.


I wish someone would make the shock that you described. It would be nice for the shock to be sitting at the position that it was intended to for maximum performance capability rather than being extended 2" all the time.Edited by: Camstyn

Hi Joe,


Thanks for the clarification. Agreed, the fact that the shock isn't perfectly centered in its travel is a non-issue.


My main concern is that the Bilsteins will be out of travel before the stock suspension. At normal ride height, that isn't a concern. With the green keys, it *may* be a concern. Anyways, ordered the shocks this morning.


Axle shafts: was waiting for that comment! They're happening, but ya gotta get me the lengths for your other 2!


--Rob





Rob, I'm running the Bilsteins w/ the green keys - no issues thus far.


There should be no change in shock as a result of the green keys since the travel hasn't changed - only the static point (of the shock) when riding level. They would (should?) still bottom out/fully compress at the same position (relative to the suspension system) regardless of the green key or stock. If the shocks are correct for a 2500HD, then they should be fine for a 2" torsion bar lift too...


Some people have mentioned that the Bilsteins operate better at "the middle", but I've yet to see real proof of that...


Edit: Quit asking questions and get working on that axleshaft for me!!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

HB Thanks for pointing that out. I think I will add that in right now. Duals you say.................... we'll talk next week, I will get a call into BR yet today.

HB


I think the complete COOL DUAL exhaust weighs in at 87 lbs, are you sure you want that extra weight running down the track?


MB

MBRP- That means i'll just have to add a little bit more nos http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif I figured duals were like stickers, they add 50hp http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif Hope to see ya next week, maybe????????

While the shocks work just fine if the are within an inch or two of their center when the suspension is static, if you go more than that they will cause a rougher ride. This has been experienced many times.


Perhaps the tie rod flip that casued the problem was not done properly. The Rancho kit's knuckles also flip the tie rods, and there are no stability issues with that kit.

The tie rod flip causing handling problems is likely primarily due to the introduction of bump steer and opposite behaviours of each tire. Of course, this is assuming the work was done properly, as you've stated.


--Rob





Perhaps the tie rod flip that casued the problem was not done properly. The Rancho kit's knuckles also flip the tie rods, and there are no stability issues with that kit.

Afp1


what kind of block did you use for the rear? where did you get it from?


thanks

Got them from http://www.hill4wheeldrive.com/


Not sure what brand. They cost $50.