Well I am going to do my first oil change today. Using Rotella oil. I called my parts store and they sent me down an ACDelco PF2232. I just want to make sure this is the right filter for an 06' LBZ. Thanks in advance, -Mat-

Yes Sir.

Mat-If you are going to change fluids and filters yourself,why don't you go to Fleetfilter{on the web} and save some real money,especially on fuel filters.I'll never buy local again except if I have to.

Thank you both!
First oil change was a success! What a mess though. Last time I do it on my back. It won't get done again until I have a lift open.
Strange question: why does my motor seem even quieter than before>??? -Mat-

Because you have that old dino oil Rotella T--that's why--great stuff.Reminds me of a gorgeous stripper with fake boobs {Synthetic } versusone with naturals{dino}---Who you goin pick for your LD???:muahaha: :muahaha: :joke: :joke: Do mine{truck} on front ramps all the time--plenty of room--maybe not enough though for the one with the giant fake ones though:muahaha:

Thank you both!
First oil change was a success! What a mess though. Last time I do it on my back. It won't get done again until I have a lift open.
Strange question: why does my motor seem even quieter than before>??? -Mat-

do mine on my back, no mess. First hint, get a fumoto valve. Second hint, let the filter drain a bit before you remove it.

Jim

do mine on my back, no mess. First hint, get a fumoto valve. Second hint, let the filter drain a bit before you remove it.

Jim


Ok I will bite here, what is a FUmoto Valve? never heard of that one. Thanks

Ok I will bite here, what is a FUmoto Valve? never heard of that one. Thanks

It replaces the drain plug. Simple flip of a lever and out the oil comes. Can get one with a nipple, slip a hose over it and other end into a gallon jug and you
jug it up as you drain. Check the supporting vendors, kenneydiesel.com, lubespecialist.com and probably gmdieseltech.com. Others may have them also.

Jim

It replaces the drain plug. Simple flip of a lever and out the oil comes. Can get one with a nipple, slip a hose over it and other end into a gallon jug and you
jug it up as you drain. Check the supporting vendors, kenneydiesel.com, lubespecialist.com and probably gmdieseltech.com. Others may have them also.

Jim

Sounds simple enough, Have you ever worried about the handle getting fipped by mistake? hitting something or viberation? I will be looking into one though, sounds like something I may want to buy.
Again thanks for the information

nope

Sounds simple enough, Have you ever worried about the handle getting fipped by mistake? hitting something or viberation? I will be looking into one though, sounds like something I may want to buy.
Again thanks for the information

as said nope. The handle drops down into a detent. Greg at lube specialist sells a hose clip you can also put over the handle. The valve is above the cross member at the rear of the oil pan. I think you would have more to worry about than the valve if something hit it.

Jim

Got my fumoto valve in the mail today!!! It will be great when I change the oil again, I just changed it so now have to wait till the next change to put it on but from then on it will be Super!!
Thanks for the heads up on this device! they should come on the trucks new!!

Just get a foot or so of 3/8" clear tubing and slip that over the Fumoto... even cleaner than just the Fumoto itself... totally eliminates splashing.

Just get a foot or so of 3/8" clear tubing and slip that over the Fumoto... even cleaner than just the Fumoto itself... totally eliminates splashing.

Got a hose already fitted for it, I wish I would have had the fumoto before I changed the oil a week or so ago. I think its going to be well worth the investment.. Thanks to "JHOLLY" for mentioning it!!!
I had not heard of one till he mentioned it!

I put a Fumoto valve on when I made my first oil change 3 years and 100K ago with no issues. Once you see it, then you will realize that it is next to impossible for it to open on its own.

-Wardster

Yup... there are two kinds of oil pans... those with the drain on the bottom and those with the drain on the edge.

There are two kinds of vehicles... those with the pan tucked up into the frame or even above a skid plate, and those with little ground clearance.

My '03 Tundra had the drain on the bottom, but there was no way anything would hit it... the Fumoto is very popular for them, but I used the Fram Sure-Drain.
My wife's Rav4 has the drain on the bottom and you can SEE the pan looking under the front bumper. The Fumoto would get knocked off by lane markers :D

The Duramax is on the edge of the pan, on the back, well within the frame, AND protected by the skid plate. There's no way anything is going to hit the valve.
The advantage of the Fumoto is there is no "drain part" needed that can be lost like the Sure-Drain. If you lose your 3/8 hose, another one is as close as a hardware store, or you can drain without it. With the Fram, if you lose the drain part, you have to buy another SD to replace it.

With the FUMOTO, does all the oil drain out as it would when you take the factory drain plug off?

With the FUMOTO, does all the oil drain out as it would when you take the factory drain plug off?

Yes, but it takes longer. Run the engine for 15 minutes or so to make sure the oil is hot before you change it. On the Rotella web site, it states only 60 to 65% of the oil will drain when it is cold.

Yes, but it takes longer. Run the engine for 15 minutes or so to make sure the oil is hot before you change it. On the Rotella web site, it states only 60 to 65% of the oil will drain when it is cold.

Thanks. I always drive the truck for 30 min. to heat the oil before I change it. Thanks for the reply. There goes MORE $$$ to spend ):h .

Another thing that I like to do, just to be anal about it, is to "flush" one quart of clean oil through the system with the Fumoto open after it's stopped draining the dirty oil.

I flush the engine about every 100K but that is it. All I use is diesel fuel, I get the engine up to temp, drop the oil, add diesel as if it were oil, run for a minute, and dump/refill. I have used the diesel in farm machinery afterward or for burning.

I flush the engine about every 100K but that is it. All I use is diesel fuel, I get the engine up to temp, drop the oil, add diesel as if it were oil, run for a minute, and dump/refill. I have used the diesel in farm machinery afterward or for burning.
Why would you subject your engine to hardly any lubrication? I can't understand this.Even for a minute,there has to be some slight damage happening to your bearings.Then,you still have residual diesel mixed with your fresh engine oil and that's not good either.Years ago,on a large IH backhoe I had, IH said to mix about a quart of kerosene to the oil in the winter but this is not the same.

Diesel will lubricate quite nicely, with substantial viscosity (if cool), if you don't get it hot. IMO, won't hurt anything, but I wouldn't put a load on it, or get it hot (dangerous).

I don't know if it would accomplish anything, but that's another story.

Diesel will lubricate quite nicely
Umm.... even with the low-sulfer and ultra-low sulfer crap that we're being sold now?
If it lubricated so well, why do we need additives to keep our injectors from crapping out?

Gosh Rich

I'm not saying diesel is a substitute for oil, (or vice versa, yikes).

I think this thread goes back to the most harmless ways to clean the lub system, effectively. But I'm by no means suggesting the above ideas. Just that diesel in the crankcase for a few minutes will do no harm.

Diesel will lubricate quite nicely, with substantial viscosity (if cool), if you don't get it hot. IMO, won't hurt anything, but I wouldn't put a load on it, or get it hot (dangerous).

I don't know if it would accomplish anything, but that's another story.

Well,IMO,it can do some damage.He already has the engine hot-he just dumped the hot oil.I know all about diesel being slippery--we use it to lube and protect the conveyor chain on a sander,protect and lube dozer tracks,but pure diesel in an engine,especially the DM with all its torque and friction mass is just plain dumb.

Ya... we used to use it to lube old wiring when it was time to pull the old lead-shielded high voltage stuff out of the ground.

I wouldn't have as much of a problem putting maybe a 50/50 mix of fuel/(clean)oil in and running it for a few minutes, but pure #2 :eek:

Much safer just to pop on a cheapie Fram filter and 10 quarts of the cheapest CH4 you can find... run that for 10 miles then do another oil change back to a decent filter and your preferred quality oil.

Are the Wix filters as good as ACDelco filters. There are no warranty issues if you use them? Mike Z

i use carquest (made by Wix) and no problems.

Well back in the old days, before filtering systems, we use to flush the engine ( gas )with a quart of diesel when changing the oil.. My uncle still has the old buick he taught me on..

arm

Yeah--back in the days of non-detergent oils.With the super high detergent oils today and proper PM of changing oil and filters,there should be no gunk to accumulate.And,if for some reason there was,you certainly would'nt want to disturb it while the engine is running,only for the gunk to find its way into small passageways,ports,etc.Leave it alone.