Traction Bars [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Traction Bars


Coles_D/A
02-02-2006, 07:11 PM
Well my axel is fu&ked up.....have to send it out to have a new one made up. Im pisssed, but what do you expect for a 12" lift. So I come to you guys looking foor some traction bars...I saw the ones I can buy from Superlift...RCD...Fabcrap...Pro Crap....and I think one other brand but I forgot. I know Cognito makes them...but Justin hasnt gotten back to me yet. So what are you guys all running for traction bars??

Collector
02-02-2006, 09:27 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/55-TRUCK-LADDER-BARS-FORD-CHEVY-DODGE-GASSER-DRAG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107061QQitemZ46098 17913QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Coles_D/A
02-02-2006, 11:06 PM
Will these fit?? I have a crew cab short box, you have a long box and you have 55" ladder bars

WhippledHD
02-03-2006, 04:59 PM
I'd talk to Justin about building you a ladder bar style with a shackle at the front/frame connection. Justin knows his stuff and it will look good.

Chris

Liftedhdrado
02-03-2006, 05:17 PM
I just had some Cognito traction bars installed about 3 weeks ago or so. They are 68" long. I just went with the basic tube kind..nothing fancy...I immediately noticed the difference.

I will post some pics this weekend.

Collector
02-03-2006, 06:30 PM
I'd talk to Justin about building you a ladder bar style with a shackle at the front/frame connection. Justin knows his stuff and it will look good.

Chris
Build one like this:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=13146&d=1136081069

dmaxlover
02-04-2006, 11:00 AM
Well my axel is fu&ked up.....have to send it out to have a new one made up. Im pisssed, but what do you expect for a 12" lift. So I come to you guys looking foor some traction bars...I saw the ones I can buy from Superlift...RCD...Fabcrap...Pro Crap....and I think one other brand but I forgot. I know Cognito makes them...but Justin hasnt gotten back to me yet. So what are you guys all running for traction bars??


How is your axle fu&ked? Can you elabrolate a bit?

Coles_D/A
02-04-2006, 02:12 PM
Well were the axel meets the rear diff, the "ears" that go around the u-joints are all caved in and cuped like....and I believe thats why I have a vibration at about 70 mph.... also I was thinking I dont think those 55" ones will fit, they just seem too short.

Collector- Do you have a picture of yours??

Collector
02-04-2006, 02:30 PM
Collector- Do you have a picture of yours??

That is a pic of mine two post above.
Here is another from behind:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=13147&d=1136081069

Coles_D/A
02-04-2006, 06:45 PM
Collector- Did you build those yourself or did you buy them from the place you sent me to? Also how did you mount those to your frame? I know the side that goes to you axel is welded to the housing but how did you go about mounting them to your frame?

DIESELMAN75
02-04-2006, 07:41 PM
if i was going to buy some i would not get those they look small compaired to the truck in the pic the bars dont even go to the cab they are way to short for a CC IMO i would look for longer ones or make your own

Collector
02-05-2006, 01:16 AM
if i was going to buy some i would not get those they look small compaired to the truck in the pic the bars dont even go to the cab they are way to short for a CC IMO i would look for longer ones or make your own

Why do they need to go to the cab? How about to the front tow hooks? I don’t want some jungle gym under there. I compared several manufacturers of truck ladder/traction bars as well as some home made ones I found here and there and the average length was between 50 and 60” and I'm sure there are longer ones and shorter ones out there. If you didn’t use a front pivot or a rear housing floater to prevent binding then the longer the better(this would decrease the arc the rear end travels with the ladder bars) Manufacturers like S&W race cars, Chassis Works, Chassis Engineering and Art Morrison Suspension all make ladder bars between 30 and 34”(for cars) . There is no 65” ladder bar for a long Lincoln Town car cause it “looked like it needed it”, it gets the 30-34” bar also. My point is, do some research first, and then draw your conclusion-looks aren’t everything.

DIESELMAN75
02-05-2006, 11:12 AM
Why do they need to go to the cab? How about to the front tow hooks? I don’t want some jungle gym under there. I compared several manufacturers of truck ladder/traction bars as well as some home made ones I found here and there and the average length was between 50 and 60” and I'm sure there are longer ones and shorter ones out there. If you didn’t use a front pivot or a rear housing floater to prevent binding then the longer the better(this would decrease the arc the rear end travels with the ladder bars) Manufacturers like S&W race cars, Chassis Works, Chassis Engineering and Art Morrison Suspension all make ladder bars between 30 and 34”(for cars) . There is no 65” ladder bar for a long Lincoln Town car cause it “looked like it needed it”, it gets the 30-34” bar also. My point is, do some research first, and then draw your conclusion-looks aren’t everything.

the key there is for cars and they are not lifted long bed trucks (i think yours is long bed) so you dont really need long bars. the reason i dont like the ones that you have are because the angle is to steep and a longer bar will not only look better but work better also and dont tel me to do research first because i have done enough in the past so i could build my own so i think i kow what i'm talking about so you might be the one that needs to do some research before you come at me with that.

rcr1978
02-05-2006, 11:37 AM
Well were the axel meets the rear diff, the "ears" that go around the u-joints are all caved in and cuped like....and I believe thats why I have a vibration at about 70 mph.... also I was thinking I dont think those 55" ones will fit, they just seem too short.

Collector- Do you have a picture of yours??

I don't get what your trying to say here? It sound like to me that just the yoke on the rearend is just worn, how can the whole thing be fooked up. If it is the yoke the reason it is worn is the ujoint straps may have been loose or driving around with bad joints for a long time.

Liftedhdrado
02-05-2006, 11:40 AM
Below are some pics of my Cognito Traction Bars

http://img446.imageshack.us/img446/5594/reartb2es.jpg

http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/5682/stb13sn.jpg

http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/1923/ftb9wu.jpg

http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/2641/stb28zo.jpg

Collector
02-05-2006, 12:04 PM
the key there is for cars and they are not lifted long bed trucks (i think yours is long bed) so you dont really need long bars. the reason i dont like the ones that you have are because the angle is to steep and a longer bar will not only look better but work better also and dont tel me to do research first because i have done enough in the past so i could build my own so i think i kow what i'm talking about so you might be the one that needs to do some research before you come at me with that.
I dont care that you don't like how they look, just Please tell us how the longer bars will "work better". Something to do with "instant center" Have you ever had anything with ladder bars? I am on my 4th, 3 cars and 1 truck. Ladder bar geometry is the same for any vehicle. Where the bars point to -so to say is your instant center of gravity, affecting traction and lift. A 32" ladder bar pointing to the same instant center as a 55" bar will do the same thing. Just a 32" bar won't reach a low enough point on my frame-soo... I needed a longer bar. Just changing the front pivot shackle length will change the IC as well. Besides those long bars tend to take away some ground clearance.

DIESELMAN75
02-05-2006, 01:34 PM
I dont care that you don't like how they look, just Please tell us how the longer bars will "work better". Something to do with "instant center" Have you ever had anything with ladder bars? I am on my 4th, 3 cars and 1 truck. Ladder bar geometry is the same for any vehicle. Where the bars point to -so to say is your instant center of gravity, affecting traction and lift. A 32" ladder bar pointing to the same instant center as a 55" bar will do the same thing. Just a 32" bar won't reach a low enough point on my frame-soo... I needed a longer bar. Just changing the front pivot shackle length will change the IC as well. Besides those long bars tend to take away some ground clearance.

have i ever had any thing with ladder bars yes i have made my own on two different trucks and have bought one set on a third and they all were lifted i have read and been told that the less angle that the bars have is better and take the 32 inch car bars and install them on a car and they dont have much angle to them and they work great and lifted trucks check out fabtech ladder bars they have some angle but not as much as yours do

Collector
02-05-2006, 01:51 PM
have i ever had any thing with ladder bars yes i have made my own on two different trucks and have bought one set on a third and they all were lifted i have read and been told that the less angle that the bars have is better and take the 32 inch car bars and install them on a car and they dont have much angle to them and they work great and lifted trucks check out fabtech ladder bars they have some angle but not as much as yours do

I've grown tired of this game.. good luck.

Trippin
02-05-2006, 01:57 PM
I dont care that you don't like how they look, just Please tell us how the longer bars will "work better". Something to do with "instant center" Have you ever had anything with ladder bars? I am on my 4th, 3 cars and 1 truck. Ladder bar geometry is the same for any vehicle. Where the bars point to -so to say is your instant center of gravity, affecting traction and lift. A 32" ladder bar pointing to the same instant center as a 55" bar will do the same thing. Just a 32" bar won't reach a low enough point on my frame-soo... I needed a longer bar. Just changing the front pivot shackle length will change the IC as well. Besides those long bars tend to take away some ground clearance.

:exactly:

Geometric rules haven't changed in a very long time.

Coles_D/A
02-05-2006, 01:57 PM
Wow, this is funny....dude dont talk about Fabtech ladder bars...those just plain suck. My friends dad had them on his F-350 and snapped them both due to their **** quality. Anyways.....Collector I am going to be ordering my 55" bars tomorrow, did yours come with brackets so you could mount the front?? Or how did you go about mounting them?

Also thanks for the Cognito pictures, Chad quoted my like 400 bucks for the single bars, so I am thinking I will go with the other style.

Collector
02-05-2006, 02:02 PM
Wow, this is funny....dude dont talk about Fabtech ladder bars...those just plain suck. My friends dad had them on his F-350 and snapped them both due to their **** quality. Anyways.....Collector I am going to be ordering my 55" bars tomorrow, did yours come with brackets so you could mount the front?? Or how did you go about mounting them?

They came with solid mounting front brackets. I made a simple shackle to use instead, I added grease fittings and grade 8 bolts. You can see how the shackle works when you get one tire up on a curb.

DIESELMAN75
02-05-2006, 02:04 PM
Wow, this is funny....dude dont talk about Fabtech ladder bars...those just plain suck. My friends dad had them on his F-350 and snapped them both due to their **** quality. .

i'm not saying that they are built strong just that they are long and i know that longer bars are better i was just using fabteck as an example

Collector
02-05-2006, 02:04 PM
i'm not saying that they are built strong just that they are long and i know that longer bars are better i was just using fabteck as an example

And must break easier too:eek:

Coles_D/A
02-05-2006, 02:05 PM
Ok cool, I will post pictures and let you guys know how they turned out.

DIESELMAN75
02-05-2006, 02:12 PM
And must break easier too:eek:

i dont think thay broke because of them being longer but not made well i guess

DIESELMAN75
02-05-2006, 02:15 PM
the thing i like about your bars is the price that is really cheap and i guess they work good i would not know just going by what you are saying

chp777
02-05-2006, 07:10 PM
remember one thing when doing traction bars the rear end still has to articulate or something is going to bind and break because are trucks can't drive with a swing arm well unless you never plan on turning. a traction device is a lever that try's to lift the front end up and push the tire down. here's the easiest way I can explain if you can imagine you could balance your truck on your finger tip now remember that spot. now take a piece of string have someone hold it at the rear end height where you plan on mounting the rear of your bar (do this on the outside of the tire) then stretch it out to where you would be able to balance it on you finger now bring it up to the cams height in the truck ok now look where the string intersects with the frame that's where the front of the bar should mount. sorry this is a very simple explaintion.hope this helps people making a decision. I will be building a set soon and depending on how much it will cost I might be selling them but after I talk with mods here.
also remember all bar's will differ from truck to truck do to truck configuration(cab,bed, height and lift)
cheers
rob

Collector
02-05-2006, 08:44 PM
remember one thing when doing traction bars the rear end still has to articulate or something is going to bind and break because are trucks can't drive with a swing arm well unless you never plan on turning.

Exactly, A Johnny Joint on the front offers 30 degrees of unrestricted movement in any direction as compared to 22 degrees on a common heim joint(more with misalignment bushings). Lets put it this way, if your going to climb over boulders, ladder bars might not be for you.

Coles_D/A
02-05-2006, 11:07 PM
Hey Collector- How do you like those tires? I was thinking about ordering some too.......

Collector
02-05-2006, 11:52 PM
Hey Collector- How do you like those tires? I was thinking about ordering some too.......
So far I like them alot, ride well but are noisy. As far as wear, I only put around 4K a year on my truck and 1500 of those miles on 37" winter meats. So I wont see much wear yet. Bought them from Ebay as well. Paid about 1350 shipped to my door.
http://search.stores.ebay.com/SPORTZTRAILERS_irok_W0QQfciZ6QQfclZ4QQfsnZSPORTQ5A TRAILERSQQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQftsZ2QQsaselZ18822150QQs ofpZ0

Collector
02-06-2006, 12:18 AM
I found this picture on the net of "Long ladder bars". I don't think this is what any of you want unless its going to be used in the circus.;)

Collector
02-10-2006, 01:51 AM
Some members wanted more info on the front pivot I used for my ladder bars. I drew up a quick sketch:

Trippin
02-10-2006, 02:04 AM
Some members wanted more info on the front pivot I used for my ladder bars. I drew up a quick sketch:

I can't build to that print without dimensions. :D

Collector
02-10-2006, 06:11 AM
I can't build to that print without dimensions. :D
I dont have the dimentions anymore, just remember what it looks like. I'd go measure it but it was 1:30 in the morning and 18 degree's out so a picture is all you get. The picture is just to give you an idea on how to make it. Besides if I would make another one, depending on what material I had laying around the shop, I doubt it would be the same dimentions.

OneTALLGMC96
02-10-2006, 07:41 AM
Awesome, thanks!:ro)