I installed a banks six gun with the speedloader today, I previously had a edge juice with attitude and it seemed to have alot more power than the six gun. Is this common or should they be closer to the same power out put?

Seems like for most, the consensus is the Edge has more.

We installed one Thursday and must say it was very smooth, but level 6 felt like a Juice somewhere between level 3 and 4. Edited by: Professor

Has anyone had any problems with the six gun. It looks like from reading all the posts the power is a little down compared to the juice but I havent seen the problems like I have with the juice..

I don't think there are enough units compared to the juice in use to see many problems yet.

I don't know about the OJ , but the banks six-gun has on board diagnostics and can tell you if all is well on all systems that are being monitored. very well engineered IMHO and smooth as a kitten

We'll find out monday how the banks does vs the Hypertech... guy at the shop said that Hypertech would take off the governor, didn't so I sent it back and used the cash from that to help buy a 6-gun/speed loader...


Banks told me what it will and won't do, still won't take the governor off but it'll definately give a kick in the pants on the way to it.. Can't complain... 95 in a 55 would be bad enough anyway...


It shows up tommorrow... gonna leave work soon as the missus says its here to put it on and go lose some rubber on the street playing with it... Hope to give raving reviews tomorrow :)Edited by: SpoolinTurbo

I did the same thing you're doing. I went from a Hypertech to a Banks Six-gun/speedloader. The Hypertech was damn near just as fast-I mean real close-to the 155hp/385tq of the Banks. The Bullydog (95hp) is faster than the Hypertech AND the Banks.


Hypertech(96hp)-15.45 1/4 mile


Banks Level 6-15.30 1/4 mile


Bullydog (95hp)-15.15 1/4 mile


If you pull alot, you may be happier with it. Just don't expect to win many races against trucks with other modules/programmers..

I wonder what the juice does in the 1/4 mile.......

well all my hopes for today of a 6-gun install went down the drain.. apparently the sales staff doesn't quite comprehend the whole shipping aspect of the business... Purchased the 6gun on the 11th, and was told it was going out and would be in my lap.. right about.. now! Instead, UPS/Banks are telling me it didn't even leave the warehouse until 10 PM the next day... not like I'm paying for shipping or anything..wait.. I am. Oh well.


Heaven forbid I order a exhaust system with a set time reserved with my favorite local shop... imagine what might happen then.


Maybe I should have gone with the juice or something.

I think juice 90hp runs about what ours does on level 6, about 15.30. We can't compete with any that gains more than 100hp in a race. I guess I still just don't feel the power that it should. I think it would be a whole different animal if the hp/tq curve would continue upward until peak at 3200rpm. Instead, it peaks at 1900rpm and drops like a rock. At 3200rpm, it's only gaining about 85hp. I'm still waiting for someone to stack on the six-gun. Another 50-70hp would help, and I think the tranny would take it. With 50hp more, it would be at 135hp at shiftpoint. I'm a little let down by it. Would of went with something else if I knew it would be this slow.

FWIW, a buddy of mine has an Eagle Talon that runs 14.5's. I raced him with the Juice on level 3 (I meant to put it on 5, forgot) and we were dead even all the way to ~95mph when we shut off.


I was happy to see it would run around a mid-14, and even happier when I realized I was only on the 70-horse setting. Can't wait to see what it'll do on the 125 setting.Edited by: Camstyn

Did he have something done to his Talon? All the Eagle Talon TSi AWD's I've seen run a 15.1-15.2 in the 1/4. A Mid 14 on the 70hp setting seems too good to be true. Maybe it's just cause I got the Banks Blues.

i like the # shown on scotty's post, with the bully dog. is this what i could expect to get-15.15 in the 1/4 with the power pup on a stock 02 duramax crew cab with ally, with the 95 hp setting? iam interested in starting my upgrades with a power pup and havent seen any tests anywhere with it.

Ya, that's what it ran on an extended cab short box. Actually, a couple of times it ran a 15.05 and the worst it ran was a 15.17. It runs strong. On the 155hp setting, it screams. The 2001 and 2002 trannys will go into limp-home mode when shifting to 5th. On the 2003 and 2004 models, the clutch plates don't slip as easily. We've tried it on three different models, one 2003 and two 2004's, and none have gone into that mode. EVERY time we've tried a 2001 and 2002, it has. I guess the plates are coated slightly different on the newer models, according to Bullydog. Just an FYI.

Did he have something done to his Talon? All the Eagle Talon TSi AWD's I've seen run a 15.1-15.2 in the 1/4. A Mid 14 on the 70hp setting seems too good to be true. Maybe it's just cause I got the Banks Blues.





Yes I saw it run a 14.5 last summer, at sea level mind you. I'm not sure what he's got done to it, nothing too radical but it's not stock. He didn't have any excuses for not pulling away and didn't want a do-over so I assume his run against me was the best he's got.. We'll see.


Cam

I smoke my buddies auto 2004 mustang GT on level 3 not once, not twice, but three times. And that's on level 3 with the plane ole juice not attitude. Must say so far I've been very pleased with my little box of fun and after reading about the banks six-gun am liking my 590.00 price a paid as well.

I did the same thing you're doing. I went from a Hypertech to a Banks Six-gun/speedloader. The Hypertech was damn near just as fast-I mean real close-to the 155hp/385tq of the Banks. The Bullydog (95hp) is faster than the Hypertech AND the Banks.


Hypertech(96hp)-15.45 1/4 mile


Banks Level 6-15.30 1/4 mile


Bullydog (95hp)-15.15 1/4 mile


If you pull alot, you may be happier with it. Just don't expect to win many races against trucks with other modules/programmers..


Well, I got the 6 gun installed but haven't tinkered with the speed loader. I went and bought a tap/die set but they didn't have the right tap for me to be able to drill and tap the exhaust header. I might just drill a bigger hole and weld it, but I don't think that's a good answer. I could also just stuff the exhaust probe under the dash and run conservatively with the speed loader, but I think that'd be negating Banks' built in protection they designed. I actually like it compared to the hypertech. The hypertech pulled "more" than this, however with what I have been reading on here I'm actually going to be better off in the long run with the banks.

Remember, you have to take the exhaust manifold off completely and clean out ALL of the metal shavings. The next place they will go is into your turbo. You DON'T want that. Instead of fussing with taking the wheel/tire, inner fender, and exhaust manifold off, I took mine to my local dealership. They did it in 1.5 hours and charged me $140. The guy that did it is very cautious on everything he does. Although BANKS say that you COULD try to vacuum those shavings out, they also recommend to take it off. Trust me, you'll want to take them off to make sure you get the manifold squeaky clean. Welding is not an option. DO NOT hook up the speedloader without actually installing the probe in the manifold. This WILL NOT work if you hook up the probe to the six-gun and lay it in the cab or anywhere else other than the manifold. What that will do is give you an error flash on the module and it will not work UNTIL the probe is installed in the manifold, resulting in stock power. Even if you unhook the exhaust probe from the module and/or unhook the speedloader-it still will not work. Trust me on this. Don't hook up the speedloader or the exhaust probe until it can be installed in the manifold itself. I hope you read this before you try it. Otherwise, you're going to have a stock truck. The six-gun doesn't seem to realize that you're backing out of this procedure. Hope I didn't confuse you.

LOl.. not confused.. Just not speed loading until I get some gauges. I bitched about the whole shebang, but in all honesty, it's smooth power and I am happy with what I paid for, even "reloading by hand" as it may sound.. lol.





Here's a link to me playing around


http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/bc/1d01a345/bc/Chevy+Pictures/Burnout+one.wmv?BCUTUWABhP9l.tJi

i think iam going to like the power pup. what i have learned from you guys is helping me make my decision. if i stay with just the 95 hp version, shouldn't that keep me out of trouble with the tranny limp thing?

Yes, you should be safe. I did see one post about a 95hp Power Pup causing limp-mode, but that's it. Maybe his tranny is weak. From what I've seen the magic number is around 115hp or more. From there on, it depends on the shape of your tranny.

yea that is what i was thinking too. im going to start out with upgradeing to a 4 inch exhuast and then put the pup on, then some gauges. maybe later on when the money is right , i will go to tranny upgrade then the 155 hp. thanks.

Remember, you have to take the exhaust manifold off completely and clean out ALL of the metal shavings. The next place they will go is into your turbo. You DON'T want that. Instead of fussing with taking the wheel/tire, inner fender, and exhaust manifold off, I took mine to my local dealership. They did it in 1.5 hours and charged me $140. The guy that did it is very cautious on everything he does. Although BANKS say that you COULD try to vacuum those shavings out, they also recommend to take it off.


Banks swings and misses again... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif


You don't need to remove the exhaust manifiold to drill the EGT probe. Almost everyone has done the "hoot method." Just run the engine at idle to apply exhaust pressure thereby pushing shavings out the drill opening. It's worked like a charm for years. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

You do not need to remove the manifold or run the engine. A good ole $4 flex magnet works like a charm, and it will take away any chance that one of those shavings could do damage to the turbo.


For $140 you could buy all of us one of those magnetshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

How does the "hoot" method work when you've got the drill bit drilling into the manifold AS the exhaust is trying to push out the shavings? I'm not going to trust a magnet to get all of those shavings out, either. The turbo is worth alot more than $140. Didn't you guys watch the "Power Block" on March 6th and 7th when they did an install for the Six-Gun on a 6.0 Ford? Mine came off, as they strongly suggested. To each his own.......

Remember, you have to take the exhaust manifold off completely and clean out ALL of the metal shavings. The next place they will go is into your turbo. You DON'T want that. Instead of fussing with taking the wheel/tire, inner fender, and exhaust manifold off, I took mine to my local dealership. They did it in 1.5 hours and charged me $140. The guy that did it is very cautious on everything he does. Although BANKS say that you COULD try to vacuum those shavings out, they also recommend to take it off.


Banks swings and misses again... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif




depends on how you interpret directions.WOULD YOU expect a company like banks to be resposible if your 1/8 npt tap broke. Maybe thats why from a engineers point of view it makes more sense to use a 1/4 npt tap so it wont break rather than a 1/8 in .see below

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/banks_dir.jpg

How does the "hoot" method work when you've got the drill bit drilling into the manifold AS the exhaust is trying to push out the shavings? I'm not going to trust a magnet to get all of those shavings out, either. The turbo is worth alot more than $140. Didn't you guys watch the "Power Block" on March 6th and 7th when they did an install for the Six-Gun on a 6.0 Ford? Mine came off, as they strongly suggested. To each his own.......








If you felt that you were not comfortable doing it yourself and have the money to have it completed, then That is fine by me. I do not know what your mechnical expertise is. But it is a very easy task. I also believe that the shop ripped you off, because this can be done in less then an hour with the proper tools. (and this is with removing the manifold) But it is done and over with! I hope you enjoy the new found power.





And welcome aboard!

depends on how you interpret directions.WOULD YOU expect a company like banks to be resposible if your 1/8 npt tap broke. Maybe thats why from a engineers point of view it makes more sense to use a 1/4 npt tap so it wont break rather than a 1/8 in .see below


I agree, sounds like a poor engineering choice to go with an 1/8" NPT tap. Mine was an 1/4" NPT.


And I'm not aware of any aftermarket product provider that warranties the install.

depends on how you interpret directions.WOULD YOU expect a company like banks to be resposible if your 1/8 npt tap broke. Maybe thats why from a engineers point of view it makes more sense to use a 1/4 npt tap so it wont break rather than a 1/8 in .see below


I agree, sounds like a poor engineering choice (banks again?) to go with an 1/8" NPT tap. Mine was an 1/4" NPT.


And I'm not aware of any aftermarket product provider that warranties the install. Edited by: Ray403Dmax

As I'm sure we've all seen, drill bits have several cutting surfaces as well as open areas for material to move. At those open areas, engine exhaust gases push the shavings out. In addition, the cutting surfaces move the cut material away from the hole, rather than pushing anything into the opening.

depends on how you interpret directions.WOULD YOU expect a company like banks to be resposible if your 1/8 npt tap broke. Maybe thats why from a engineers point of view it makes more sense to use a 1/4 npt tap so it wont break rather than a 1/8 in .see below


I agree, sounds like a poor engineering choice (banks again?) to go with an 1/8" NPT tap. Mine was an 1/4" NPT.


And I'm not aware of any aftermarket product provider that warranties the install.

those direction's i posted came from banks and they say to use a 1/4 npt. other venders use 1/8 npt. mine came from banks and it is 1/4.

How does the "hoot" method work when you've got the drill bit drilling into the manifold AS the exhaust is trying to push out the shavings? I'm not going to trust a magnet to get all of those shavings out, either. The turbo is worth alot more than $140. Didn't you guys watch the "Power Block" on March 6th and 7th when they did an install for the Six-Gun on a 6.0 Ford? Mine came off, as they strongly suggested. To each his own.......


Scotty, that is why drill bits have the flutes. The flutes evacuate the shavings back towards the drill. The airflow from the exhaust is helping to push the shavings out. I haven't decided which way I will do mine yet, but it should be safe to do it without removing the manifold.

Step drill in that size cuts with one edge, and has a very large straight flute...

If you decide to do yourself, start with a smaller bit size and increase the bit several times. Also, it's a good idea to not lean into the drill, instead let the drill bit do the work so the shavings are smaller.

Cast iron doesn't make big chips anyway.


Tapping cast iron doesn't get much easier.


1/8 NPT is close to 3/8" OD so it should be an easy job.


1/4 NPT looks like overkill.

If cast iron doesn't make big chips, then there is no need to remove the exhaust when drilling the manifold.


As far as the 1/8 to 1/4" debate, I'd suspect the probe solution determines the opening. The smaller the opening the smaller the probe thickness. For mine, I'd prefer a more durable probe. There's nothing overkill about that.