I hear a sharp rapping... not real loud but very consistant coming from the area of the torque convertor. My truck is a relatively early build 01 that was prone to this. I think I just might change them out this weekend just in case.

IIRC hoot it should be a rather hollow thumping/knock kind of noise, but I've never heard it on an Allison.

I once had to change a trans in an 93' gmc dually 4 speed and after two days, the torque converter to the fly wheel came loss. At first I thought the motor was going to blow up. I was the worst sounding thing I have ever heard, it sounded like marbles in the motor. A friend said to check the bolts and sure enough thats what it was. Hope this helps.

Hoot, I never thought of that, That may be your noise, I wonder why if it is coincidental?

I don't think there's any coincidence except maybe the long drive. There is a little thumping or low knock associated.

WHat do I do? Pull the starter? Edited by: hoot

Yes


One of mine was finger tight .... Order new bolts ,they aren't cheap either .... Don't drop one or you might as well order a Transgo kit while it's being taken out for a bolt recovery ...


Mac Edited by: Mackin

Just wanted to throw this out there to you guys, but when I do mine I use Red Locktite Thread locker on them. This will help to keep them in place. Worked on a street stock we ran at the local oval and had troubles with the bolts comming out of the flywheel on 2 different occasions ( they were torqued new bolts ). I told them I had used thread locker on all mine the first time around but they didn't think they needed it. The second time around we used it and we never had a trouble from that point on. I don't know if the shop manual states weather or not you can use thread locker, but I would. Just my .02


Good luck Hoot, Fran

What is behind the little sheet metal cover just aft of the filter? Later! Frank

Hi Fran,


You make an excellant suggestion. The new Bolts come with loctite applied. Have you seen an Allison TC bolt? The head is short. You might want to consider "blue" loctite. I think the chances of stripping the head are greater with "red" loctite.

There is a small inspection cover on the bottom of the bellhouseing that can be removed. Once removed place a flat screwdriver up against the torque converter and try to move it both directions. If you feel it move and stop then the bolts are loose. The only other way would be to remove the starter and check each of them but at that point it's just as easy to put in the new ones. Edited by: Diesel Tech

Good stuff. I hope they have em in stock.

I don't understand why they didn't come loose sooner. Have you recently had some work done down there?

Pull the starter and (disconnect batterys first) turn converter with screwdriver through the hole Diesel Tech described and check all 6 bolts. This is too important to guess at. If you do find loose bolt, pull it out for thread inspection(bad thread on bolt will surely indicate bad thread on converter).If all bolts are loose and threads are not bad, get new bolts from an Allison dealer and pray the flexplate holes are not elongated. Good Luckhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


mike

Trans never touched. I haven't confirmed anything yet. I do have extended warranty.

OK

I got two different part numbers for the torque convertor bolts.

Dealer 1 says 88996639
Dealer 2 says 11589040

Which do I get?


Mac.... Allison wants $1.60 eachEdited by: hoot

the winner is dealer one, That part no is a bag of 6

hoot


Hope you'r converter is stock cause those bolts will go right through the billet cover.

Yes it's stock.

The bolts I got from the Allison dealer are M10 x 1.5 x 15long #23049056. Can you guys confirm the are the same? Allison says this bolt works on the 1000 and the 545 trans. It's cad plated and has red locking compound on the threads.

Does this look right?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Z2B_torqueconvertorbolt.jpg

hoot


That be the one.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


mike

The OEM's look different as you'll see .... Well they did on mine ... Differance is little longer with a self aligning tip ....


Mac Edited by: Mackin

Hoot,


I don't know if it's possible to thighten these bolts thru the inspection cover that Diesel Tech had discussed above, but if you can I would use as torque wrench and torque them to Spec. Glad to see Allison has gone with the Red Locking Compound, that stuff is some strong, but as Geerrhead stated it can be a real bear to break loose after. I have seen the type thats coated on the threads just haven't used it myself so I don't know how it will hold, but I am sure it must work. Let us know how you make out and if it's the cure for your problem.


Best of Luck, Fran

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/tn_convertor_bolts.jpg


This is what I recognize

Eric me too .... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


Butnontheless the Allison ones will work ....Their similiar to aftermarket Converter bolts ...


Geerhead is Oh So correct ,you'll have to manually break the red thread lock TC bolts lose and hopes not to break thy knuckles and strip the head they will be a bear ...


Never reuse .....


Mac Edited by: Mackin

Now I'm scratching my head if I should use the ones I got.

Now I'm scratching my head if I should use the ones I got.


Quite scratchin your going to leave a scar and go pull the wheel well starter and get busy ....


If your doing them one at a time,I'm sure you are,using self centering bolts wont be a issue ....


The OEM have threadlock but not red ... Also like I said they are more expensive compared to Allison ...








Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

It's not easy getting to those bolts. I decided to just check if they are loose. Got the starter out. have no clue how you can get a torque wrench in there while keeping the motor from turning. I'm on jack stands and going it alone. If none are loose, the old ones are staying in.

The stock bolts were all tight.

I did notice as I was turning the torque convertor with a little pry bar (thin one that fits in your pocket), some times I could ever so slightly make a knock noise as I pryed on it. It seemed as if the torque convertor was lifting at the rear (trans end)slightly. Is this normal? Does the front shaft of the Allison wear out?

MAC,

I found the bolt kit. $9.30 for all six. They are just like the ones Eric showed us.


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http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/372_bolt.jpg
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/A23_head.jpgEdited by: hoot

is this a problem of a tapping noise by the converter sounds like a typewriter on drivers side comes and goes

IF THIS WAS A PROBLEM DID GM CORRECT IT IN THE 2004 S

is this a problem of a tapping noise by the converter sounds like a typewriter on drivers side comes and goes


Yes it was corrected a long time ago during the 01 run.

jampsdmax... the noise you are hearing is normal. It' called the Tick.

It sounds like an erratic valve tap. Don't worry about it.

I had that "tick" for the first time in almost 6,000 miles on my '04 this past weekend, it went away.

I thought you sold your duramax/alli ?