http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Fuel_filter_after_12k_miles_001.jpgThis is what my filter looks like at 12k while running a lift pump with one pound of pressure measured at the bleeder on a Kennedy Mega head.


Note there is no sign of striping and all the media is one color.The bottom of the can is free of rust or other contaminant as well.


I've been running a 50/50 mix of FPPF Total Power and Cetane Boost adding 8 ounces per tank.


JK,in an earlier post you indicated you saw a lot of crud come out of the bottom of your Mega Filter.I drained off about 2 ounces and no water or debris found in either the stock or the Mega.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Fuel_filter_after_12k_miles_002.jpgthis ought to be easier to see

thats a good sign, its evenly coated. Perhaps next time, I wouls shorten the interval some. Just more evidence of why a lift pump is a good idea, even with out having other uses for it. You use the entire element

The filter is "blacker than a cats a$$" so I'm changing the interval to 10k.


We'll see if it looks any different.

Lift pumps look like the hot ticket! Yes that filter is trashed.

NWDmax


It does look like it's working very well, and it only makes sense to have slight pressure on the system versus a constant vaccum as your pictures and others with lift pump setups have proven.


What type of lift pump are you running, and how do you regulate the pressure? Do you have the excess from the lift pump plumbed back into the return line to the tank? Do you have any pictures of your lift pump setup?


I am interested in running a lift pump on my 04. I do have the Nicktane setup and I think I will be doing some modifications to suit my needs. I want to have the lift pump first then I will be running another Cat head using the Cat Fuel Water Seperator with a part # of 175-2949 prior to the Nicktane setup, both will be Pre OEM.


Thanks in adavance, Fran

Fran I'll get a pic or 2 for you in a day or so.


I'm running a set up similar to A-Bears and control the pressure with a needle valve.


The pump is the AC Delco unit like the one most of us are running.


I think JK's website shows one too.


Hope this helps!


Blake

NWDmax is this also the same setup JPBlock uses? I have seen his setup and it looks great, I just wan't to see as many different setup's as possible to give me more ideas, and to determine which way I will go. Thanks again, Fran

Wow! That filter is really dirty after only 12K miles. I chaanged mine at 16K and it was no where near as dirty.


http://dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/5Z3_web000_0008.jpg


http://dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/61F_web000_0006.jpg

Hey 04 heres the pic I promised


The red lines are air compressor to my airlift bags in the back.


I bought all the hardware and fitting at the local Ace hardware store.


Not as high tech as JP's set up but works perfect.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


Blake


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/944_Filter_pic_and_Heaths_pic_006.jpg

04wanabemax, You can find more filter and lift pump pics in my sig. Just copy and paste the below webshots link. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

NWDmax:


Nice smooth cut. I see you didn't use an ax, like some of the filter pics we've seen.


I wonder if "filter color" is any indication of the filter being plugged. JohnnyO's filter, (no lift pump), looks like a couple I've seen at 10K miles. With the filter only about 1/3 full on dirty side with a stock system, the dark color 1/3 up is typical.


With a lift pump installed, we may see the entire filter dark or black, but that might not mean it's dirty.


Anyone have insite on this?

modified,


Good point. I was wondering if the Total Power additive I use may change the fuel color enough to discolor the filter even more.


I would not think that 4 ounces per 26 gallons would be noticeable but who knows?


Even after the filter has sat for a few days its still as black as before.

NWDmax, & a bear


Thanks for the pictures it realy helps to see how you guys had done it. Now the question's???? How are you regulating the pressure to the schrader port. By both of your pictures it appears you are allowing fuel from the tank to be bypassed around the lift pump? What are the reasons? I am answering below what I believe


1. allows you to regulate fuel line pressure with out having a return to the tank from the lift pump?


2. Should the lift pump fail it allows fuel still to flow from vaccum of injector pump? I am assuming these are the answers, but feel free to correct me.


Where is the schrader valve located? I assume it's somewhere on the high pressure rail, do either of you have a picture of this location?


Is there a special type of gauge to use on this?


On intial install where do you start with the pressure? Bypass fully open?


a bear, I was wondering where you purcahsed your oil switch and if you might have a part number?


I know I asked an lot of questions, but I want to do this right the first time.


Thanks in advance, Fran

If I did this right, you will see a picture of my fuel filter & pump setup. I am using no pressure regulation and haven't seen the need for it. I have about 6,000 miles with this setup with no problems.


Well, I guess I didn't do it right. How do I add a picture?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/CDE_SmallFilter.jpgEdited by: Flyboy

Click upload image and choose your pic.(2nd up arrow top right)


You'll have to resize to 150kb or smaller using paintbrush or whatever program you like.


It'll let you look at it before you post.


When it asks you to be patient make sure you click ok.


Good luck!!!


Blake

Thanks Blake, It worked.


Gerald

Flyboy;


Thats a cool set up!


Where you get the idea?


Picture came out beautiful.


Blake

It's hard to see in the picture, but both filters are mounted on a single piece of angle iron. I wanted to keep it simple without any needle valves and bypass hoses. My own idea. I just started putting things together and it came out that way. It is mounted on the inside of the frame just forward of the tank and spliced into the metal line. I measured the current draw of the pump and it was less than two amps, so I wired it straight to an oil pressure switch without any relay. I couldn't get any data on the switch, but so far, it's working good. I will switch to a 10 micron Raycor when I change filters. It's a 2mic now.


Gerald

So you'll end up with 10 mic to 2 mic and then the stock filter?


Just curious.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif


Blake

Flyboy,





Where did you install the oil pressure switch?





Blaine

Flyboy,


Nice looking setup, your's sure looks much simpler without the added plumbing. With that said, I will be looking to regulate the pressure because I don't know enough about this fuel injection system to feel comfortable doing it with out knowing what effects it would have on the system over time. From the little I think I know it will send the high pressure from the lift pump up to or through the I.P. and to the Rail Pressure Control Valve, then on to the injectors on the rail. I am just thinking that the possibility to over pressureize the sytem may do some damage over time, but I certainly could be wrong! It's one of those things you have to be comfortable with when messing with a $40,000 truck, and mine only has 750 miles on it at this point, and it's not paid for.


Thanks for the Idea as they all make you think about it more before you make the decesion on which way to go.


Fran

NWDmax


abear


Flyboy


Can you give me the Part No of the pump you are using? I have looked through all the arcives and can't seem to find any Part Names or Nos. Thanks


Rich

04wanabemax,


You are right with your answers. The pump by-pass valve is to adjust the pressure leaving the pump. It can also be used as a 2nd flow port if the pump fails but with the flow through design of the pump it's probably not needed for that purpose. The schrader valve is located right behind and to the right of the alternator. It has a black plastic screw on cap. If you decide to go with a bypass make sure it has viton or other diesel compatable seals or it will greatly affect your adjustment as the seal swells and later erodes. With the number of owners here running full lift pump pressure (some up to 16 Psi) I'm kinda thinking its not needed. The AC Delco pump I run puts out about 6 Psi w/ 3 Psi at the engine if the bypass is closed with new filters. I don't remember the PN on the oil pressure switch but it's a standard normally open switch that I purchased at my local NAPA dealer. The GM gauge with hose and schrader coupler runs about $200.00 at the dealer but a better setup will run about 1/2 that price at Kennedy diesel. You can also use a clear hose for measuring lower pressure (around 0-2 PSI) 1' of height of fuel in the hose = .364 Psi. I am presently working on a in cab gauge setup. Waiting on a Low press fuel isolator that is on back order. Total cost of this gauge project will run about $140.00.


Flyboy,


Nice setup ! I'm up against the fence on the bypass. The added pressure (some up to 16 Psi) doesn't seem to be causing any issues. I'm tempted to shut the bypass off and just let it pump. The max my pump puts out @ the pump is about 6 Psi. However if someone was to install a non flow through design pump I would definitely recommend the bypass.


Poorloser,


The pump I run is a AC Delco part # EP158. It is a flow through design and puts out about 6-7 Psi.

a bear,


Thank's for the replies! I didn't realize that your pump setup was only putting out 6-7 psi. This makes me feel a lot more comfortable about not having to run the bypass due to high pressure from the pump (I was assuming in the 20 psi range). I also didn't know you had a flow thru type pump that will allow the I.P. to use it's vaccum if the lift pump did fail.


At this time I will probably end up using a bypass for the lift pump so I can be regulate it at the schrader valve to 1 psi. I do tend to take the cautious approach, and work from there. Glad you had the part number for the lift pump as this will be my next purchase for this project, then the fuel water seperator setup. I allready have the Cat Nicktane setup so I am getting there.


Thanks again for all the info as it's greatly appreciated. Fran

The pump I am using is the ACDelco EP309 GM# 25117340. The oil pressure switch is Borg Warner S380 screwed into a port on the oil filter housing. I don't know how much pressure the pump is putting out. I've never put a gauge on it. There were two pumps listed and the EP309 is a higher volume of the two. I can't find the other part number.


A Bear: If I decide to regulate the pressure, I will make a check valve-pressure regulator that will replace the bleed screw on the OEM filter with a return line to the tank. That will give me continous bleeding anytime the pump is running and the check valve will prevent drain back when pump is not running. So far, I don't see the need for it.


NWDmax: Yes, I have the Racor in front of the pump followed by the Cat. The OEM filter is still in its normal place, so I have three filters. I'll probably change the Racor to a 10 micron when I change filters.


Gerald

Either the EP158 or the EP309 has a built in relief valve that allows it to deliver fuel at a lower pressure. Now if I can remember which one.

Did a google search and this is what I came up with. Not much! If you find out, let me know. http://www.globemotorists.com/AC%20Delco%20Products/ac_delco_electric.htm

Flyboy


It looks like you have the better pump for our application. It is the EP309 that has the built in regulator and lower output pressure. I know my bypass valve doesn't have any seat seal left. This is probably why I am seeing the lower pressures w/ the EP158. See the below link for the info.


http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=006760