Well I blew the front seal on the tranny.
My questions are this...
How easy of a fix is it?
I already posted that the trans was tired, in need of a "soft kit"
I really need to avoid the kit for now as I do not have a proper place to do the work and the money is far too tight to shop it out.
Will I be completely wasting my time and money for the seal swap by not overhauling the thing.
The seal blew while "balling the jack" pretty hard on the interstate.
I have noticed a little white smoke a few times over several months but only when working hard on the interstates.
Was the seal starting to let fluid out but saved by me easing up on the throttle.
I do not have a parts washer nor air tools anylonger to do the work properly... any one have any luck with a total "shadetree" softkit install... ie:on the tailgate...
Thanks again in advance for all the help...
Brent
:iamwithst

Update your sig so we know what year vehicle we are dealing with. There is an upgrade that involves drilling a hole in the pump to relieve pressure off of the front seal, depending on year.

I tried to add info to sig but it seems to have failed to post...
My truck is an 84 GMC halfton with 6.2 and 700-R4.
The trans is painted blue (possibly from rebuild shop) year of trans is not known.
Thanks again... Brent

OK so this forum only adds sig to future posts... COOl
Brent
:iamwithst

Okay folks I am sure someone will be on here today that can give me any tips i will need to do this job in a decent manner as I need to gey to the woods! Hogs in trap and the cop car the wife drives cant be full of hog crap and blood!
Thanks again to those of you that help those of us...
Brent

Removal of the trans and replacement of the seal is only a "quick fix" at best. I would pull the front pump, inspect and replace the bushing and seal as required. Usually the seal failure is the result of bushing wear and convertor "walk". It's a backyard, driveway job, but the degree of difficulty goes up without a parts washer, bushing driver, seal driver, etc. The afore-mentioned modification to the pump housing further increases the difficulty.

Not trying to make this hard, just don't want you to waste your time on a quick seal job that comes back to haunt you.

Thanks, Is the bushing and other seal change going to help with the trans not engaging fully until it is run for 30 to 45 seconds?
With a few cans of engine degreaser, some diesel would I be able to get "decent" results?
I may have access to the drivers.
I will get a manual for the trans if needed but if a few pics posted here will cover me... I will save the 25 clams!
As for the modification... if it is a basic deal... I may try it.
How much money will the bushing and other seal add to the job?
If not much than I should just swap them?

Brent

The modification is to relieve the pressure buildup behind the seal. It involves drilling a small hole from behind the seal, into the pump housing. I don't have the bulletin handy, maybe someone else remembers the exact mods. I'm computer challenged, don't know how to post pictures, etc. Typing presents enough of a problem! (still trying to figure out how to type with beer in hand)

If you choose to disassemble the pump to replace the bushing, do so carefully. (You need the manual) Stand it up on the turbine shaft stator support. Remove the last two bolts slowly while lowering the pump body from the cover. If not, pieces fall out.

The seals and bushing, at my supplier are under $10. I'm more concerned about the slow engagement. That can be a sign of more problems. Internal wear (clutches) can result in abnormal piston travel and slow engagement. Just a thought. The leak must be fixed anyway.

I can tell you how it went for me. Blew mine out on the interstate, Towed it home, pulled the tranny. checked pump everything looked good had a budy check the tolerances and drive the seals back in for 10.00 he added a special seal retainer to it.

All is well for about 3 months then I am driving through town and loose the shift from 1st to second. get it home pull th pan and major shavage in the pan.

Pull it back out and work a deal with a local shop to rebuild the tranny. I have known the guy for 30 years he did a good job but had it in and out 3 times. He told me that it was undoubtedly the most worn out tranny he had ever seen. Needed a case saver, new everything and he found the orignal problem that started it some type of electronic controler was not allowing the converter to kick in.

Results.... If I would have known it was in such bad shape I would have had it rebuilt to begin with but not knowing that i would replace the seal again. I watched him check the pump and replace the seals and will do it myself next time. It is not that bad.

Well, decided to just get the beast back on the road so will be doing a filter change and seal only at this point. Was much new damage done by me getting it home with pouring in several quarts and going til it slipped and add more to the tune of 19 quarts in 4-5 miles?
Did I maybe do some good like a full flush?
Any suggested additives to prolong the life until a more financially advantagous time.
Thanks again for having a place for this shade tree mechanic to do my homework before getting into trouble.

Am I going the right way by leaving the converter hung on the flexplate and sliding trans off and on it?

Brent

I would not leave the convertor bolted to the flywheel. I would remove the convertor with the trans and, then remove the convertor after the trans is out and on the ground. The reinstallation of the convertor is tricky when still in the truck. Damage to the seal and/or pump bushing is likely. You must wiggle, jiggle, turn back and forth, etc., to get the convertor to "seat" into the pump. This is difficult unless the convertor is in your hands while installing it into the trans. Be sure to lube the end of the convertor and the back side of the seal prior to installing them. If the seal gets cut or nicked during installation, it's all for naught!