What's everybody's preferred method of replacing the injectors on the right side of the motor? Pull turbo? Pull fender? Pull nothing and use 3 elbows on your ratchet?

I pulled the inner fender, then the exhaust manifold & turbo as a unit. This was recommended by some other members and I'd do it again that way.

use the right tool. A Snap-On injector socket and do it from the top.

i use a snap on injector socket and a ratchet and just sneak it down between the turbo and head i don't find it that difficult

If you remove the turbo and upper heat shield, it is a snap. even if you don't have the snap-on tool. You can use a 1 3/16th OPS socket(had to use it when the stores did not have a 30mm deep well).
Mark

The Snap-On socket has a hex head on the top in which you can put a wrench on it in a tight spot.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=10720&group_ID=1326

It sounds to me like this can be done without removing the turbo. Since I don't run/own/work in a shop, spending $43 on one socket is a little overboard. My bro-in-law (shop owner) has a 30mm deep impact socket I can borrow for free (more in my price range).

I have pulled the wheel wells several times, so I'm familiar and comfortable with doing so. However, I have never pulled the turbo and I'd guess the bolts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold are pretty stubborn.

Plan of Attack:
I think I'll take a look under the hood, and if it looks like pulling the wheel well would be beneficial, I'll start there. If that makes pulling the turbo easier, and doing so looks as though it will make swapping injectors considerably easier, I may give the turbo removal a go. But if it looks like I can do the job without removing the turbo, I'll go that route. Is there a gasket between the turbo and the manifold?

Would you recommend doing one side at a time, and starting the truck in between doing each side? This should help the truck start a little easier, since it'd only be starting on half as many "unprimed" injectors. Just a thought.

Thanks for everyone's responses.

Wade,
I was expecting the turbo to manifold bolts to be much more stubborn than they actually were. There is no gasket there, but there is one to the oil outlet (I think it was $.65 at the dealer). I didn't do the one side - start, other side - start and wished that I had; it was a bear to get going the first time.

Wade,
I was expecting the turbo to manifold bolts to be much more stubborn than they actually were. There is no gasket there, but there is one to the oil outlet (I think it was $.65 at the dealer). I didn't do the one side - start, other side - start and wished that I had; it was a bear to get going the first time.
There should have been a metal gasket on the turbo itself, was on mine and was only $1.31 at the local diesel shop.
The gasket under the oiler is a paper one and was like said before very inexpensive.
Just treat the bolts with PB Blaster a couple of days before and then prior to doing the job and they will come off easier than you think.
Mark

It sounds to me like this can be done without removing the turbo. Since I don't run/own/work in a shop, spending $43 on one socket is a little overboard. My bro-in-law (shop owner) has a 30mm deep impact socket I can borrow for free (more in my price range).

I have pulled the wheel wells several times, so I'm familiar and comfortable with doing so. However, I have never pulled the turbo and I'd guess the bolts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold are pretty stubborn.

Plan of Attack:
I think I'll take a look under the hood, and if it looks like pulling the wheel well would be beneficial, I'll start there. If that makes pulling the turbo easier, and doing so looks as though it will make swapping injectors considerably easier, I may give the turbo removal a go. But if it looks like I can do the job without removing the turbo, I'll go that route. Is there a gasket between the turbo and the manifold?

Would you recommend doing one side at a time, and starting the truck in between doing each side? This should help the truck start a little easier, since it'd only be starting on half as many "unprimed" injectors. Just a thought.

Thanks for everyone's responses.
Your's was definetely cheaper than mine, but the 1 3/16th was only $12.xx at the local auto store.
Mark

I've done this with only taking the fender splash guard off. the last one, #8 is the tightest. If your brother inlaw has the Snap-On socket use it, the flat end on top is where the wrench goes on because the clearance issue might not let you use the ratchet on the socket.

One good thing about GM is they use real good exhaust bolts. They might look really bad with rust build up and fitting a socket on might be alittle work but they always come out. You might have to warm up the area around the bolt but it won't break off.

Been there done that on the 00 also. Turbo removal was a piece of cake really, just a little awkward getting the nuts off the studs on the turbo but no biggy. Even though you may be able to take the injectors out without turbo removal i'd take it off just for the convenience of it and your better able to get at those pesky return line clamps, you'll also be able to grab your grinder or dremel and do some smoothing work on the underside of the turbo where the exhaust comes into it and also smooth the exhaust outlet for better flow. I did both sides at the same time, cranked for maybe 3 seconds and fired right up. Most injectors can be done with some long extensions and a nuckle or two from inside the fender well with the tire removed. ( I said most...)

Does anybody use wobble extensions? I've been using them for years from Harbor Freight about $10 a set. They had them long before Snap-on.
If your trying to loosen something you can put some heat on, I've had my best luck with Sea Foam Deep Creep. Just started using it last year. I'd never heard of it before that.