I have an 04 LB7 w/4" exhaust, and plan to run a MILD tow tune. I tow heavy (21k GCW) and am looking to reduce EGTs while towing. I saw this "LB7 Boost Increase Valve"

Would the extra boost help reduce EGTs on a mild tow tune? Or is this product only effective on bigger tunes (i.e. overkill on mild tunes)?

Thanks,
Paul.

It will help some but you can make your own for about $4.00 from the local hardware store.

It will help some but you can make your own for about $4.00 from the local hardware store.

:) I read your post(s) about that the other night while doing research... It might be one mod that I can actually do myself (those are rare)... :) Any guesses on much "some" is... 50 degrees on a heavy tow? 100 degrees? Worth the effort?

One thing that confuses me a bit... I was under the impression that more boost means higher RPMs in the turbo charger, meaning hotter air (albiet MORE air). Is it just that MORE air offsets HOTTER air and results in a slight lowering of EGTs? --Paul.

Can someone point me to the instrcution to make the boost valve from hardware store parts?

Can someone point me to the instrcution to make the boost valve from hardware store parts?

Here (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35732&page=5&highlight=boost+drill) is the thread/page, and here is the post.

Tell us again how to make this "boost valve"???

one 6" long piece of 1/4" tubeing.
Flare both end up slightly
Drill a .100" hole in the tube 3" from the end
Cut Boost hose to wastgate
Install new tube with two hose clamps
Go test truck
If you need more boost open the hole somemore but donot exceede 32 psi on a stock turbo or it will join the othe'sr that Juice broke

Total cost less than $4.00 for two clamps and one tube

Another:

If your willing to spend about $10 you can just get a 1/4" steel hose tee and an ice maker bleed valve from Home Depot or a good hardware store. Get a valve that doesnot use plastic parts. Connect the the tee into the wastegate hose with clamps. Connect the free port to the bleed valve. If you donot want to here the noise connect the other end of the bleed valve to the air cleaner. When the bleed valve is closed you will be at stock boost levels, as you open the valve you will raise the boost. Most of these type valves have about 10 turns before fully open so they work just fine as long as no plastic parts are used. So now you have the $4.00 fixed adjustment way and the $10.00 adjustable way. Event a cheap farmer can afford these!

do you put this T in that line that goes to the boost valve?That metal thing w/ the long skinny rod?lol

ttt

Gey You Some Very Small Copper Tubing I Think 1/4 In And Drill Some Very Tiny Holes In It And Try It Out Just Watch Your Boost And Make Sure You Start Off Small. Just Insert It In Like You Would The Boost Valve. Probaly Have About 5-10 Bucks In It

With a mild tow tune (Juice Level 2) I didn't see significant improvement in EGT by raising the boost level at which the wastegate opens. I added a throttle return spring on the wastegate arm and towed a 15k trailer up a 6% grade both with and without the spring. No noticeable difference in EGT!

Maybe in Level 2 the engine can't develop enough boost to reach the point that the stock wastegate starts opening.

It might not reduce EGT's but if you don't adjust it properly you could be buying a turbo............
.
.
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
.
.

Raising the boost will lower the EGT's differently based on which tune you are running with it. On a LB7 factory turbocharger do not exceed 30 - 32 psi or you will be buying a new unit. Raising the boost does raise the turbine speed but it all depend where you are on the compressor map as to what will happen to the intake air temperature. The efficiency of the compressor changes as the speed and pressure ratio change, so there is no blanket answer that's right. Most times a few pounds of boost will not harm anything and will lower EGT's.

The boost tube as we call it goes in the hose between the compressor houseing fitting and the wastegate. The hose size is 1/4" and you can find most parts at any hardware type store to make one. The cheap one should run no more than $4.00 for the parts and the adjustable one about $10.00

Heading out to the hardware store shortly... plan to go the $10 route (i.e. adjustable). Will set it so that max boost is around 27-28 lbs. Should be safe, and moderately better than the low 20's I'm seeing now. Hopefully not too loud. :) --Paul.

You'd of thought after some blows up 2 turbo's they'd quite,lmao..

Man I love drinking Juicy Juice

Heading out to the hardware store shortly... plan to go the $10 route (i.e. adjustable). Will set it so that max boost is around 27-28 lbs. Should be safe, and moderately better than the low 20's I'm seeing now. Hopefully not too loud. :) --Paul.

If you are conceerned with noise put a hose on the outlet side of the valve and route it over to the air cleaner box. Just put the end of it in through the opening between the fender and air box. You will not here a thing different from the bleed then.

:snipersmiYou'd of thought after some blows up 2 turbo's they'd quite,lmao..

Man I love drinking Juicy Juice


LOL..... I'm gonna throw ya a beatin' just for that:lol:

Measuring at the Engine intake tube 32PSIG is safe. 34 is only slightly less safe. Although IMHO a bigger wastegate is safer.

Just my .02

Paul - do you understand this bleed device leaks boost all the time, even when you're below the wastegate opening point. This means that the boost you're trying to increase is at a lower level to begin with. How significant is this leakage? That's a question that would take precise measurements to answer. Kennedy's limiter and the Banks BigHead don't have this negative. But they're more bucks.

The amount of air bleed out the bleed hole will not lower boost under any operating condition. If you look at the fitting coming off the compressor housing you will see it has a factory restriction in it. This restriction plus the location of the bleed tube orifice only affects the wastegate. The manifold pressures remain the same both before and after the modification at anything less than Max boost pressures. It's been measures more times than I care to remember! We have event gone so far as to completely remove the hose and the only downside is the boost with a good program will go to about 40 psi for a very short time. :eek: Just ask "Got Juice?" what happens above 32 psi he is the expert with stock turbo in this range. Right Juice?

We have event gone so far as to completely remove the hose and the only downside is the boost with a good program will go to about 40 psi for a very short time. :eek: Just ask "Got Juice?" what happens above 32 psi he is the expert with stock turbo in this range. Right Juice?

Expert... no.
Experienced...yes sir!:ro)

For the $$$ spent it is hard to resist the bang for the buck that a bleed offers. Just be careful about that "BANG" part:o:

30 no problem /mild barks
32 no problem /mild barks
34 no problem /louder barks
36 be careful / Caution do not bark!!!!
37+..........:snipersmi

Of course, fuelling/altitude/humidity/stupidity all play a part in when it will go boom.

I just happened to have adequate quantities of all 4 variables that conspired to accidentally nuke 1..... no 2...... no 3..... no 4..... "Ebay Specials!"

Kennedy's valve, Diesel Tech's Pipe..... Have the benefit of their R&D behind them. If you install either with a Large program, follow their directions to the letter!

Oh, And those looking at a Turbo XS controller, they work pretty good too. Especially the dual control setpoint model.

STAY AWAY from HKS VPC or Greddy PFCon!
They don't act quickly enough for a fuel throttled engine!

Menards:

$3.49 1 Tube to MIP Needle Valve 1/4" x 1/4"
$1.99 1 Female Pipe Tee 1/4"
$1.98 2 Hose Barb to MIP Adapters 1/4" x 1/4" (2 x $0.99)
$1.16 2 Hose Clamps 1/4" - 5/8" (2 x $0.58)
----- ------------------------------------------------------
$8.62 TOTAL

:)

It looks nice but you will find as I did , they dont give any better boost in the area you need it, I made three diferent versions and the one that worked the best was simular to yours but had the hose hook up at the bleeder outlet as it was more consistant as the air was forced to go around a corner . all in all nothing works like a BIGHEAD for overall boost , it holds the mid boost longer and stronger, and is easy to adjust.

It looks nice but you will find as I did , they dont give any better boost in the area you need it, I made three diferent versions and the one that worked the best was simular to yours but had the hose hook up at the bleeder outlet as it was more consistant as the air was forced to go around a corner . all in all nothing works like a BIGHEAD for overall boost , it holds the mid boost longer and stronger, and is easy to adjust.

You might be right C.A.P. but based on Steve's comments and the fact that it's only an $8.62 experiment, it's worth a shot. If all it did was lower the EGTs 50 degrees (or even 25) when towing that monster mountain it would be worth it to me. How much does a BIGHEAD cost?

Being fairly ignorant in regard to diesel mechanics, I've learned a lot on this site, but still consider myself pretty much a "newbie" in a lot of areas. That said, can anyone layout a simple explanation of how air intake works, specifying the terminology for all the components that effect the air as it passes along the way? Including potential add-on components such as an intercooler,BIGHEAD,...etc.?

Thanks much!
Paul.

cheapest is not always the best!!! the Banks is a $175.00 deal but with a small program it is not that crucial (edge ez) as is a bleeder. Where you realy start to notice them is at high hp tunes, do a search on bleeders, there have been several discusions on this

cheapest is not always the best!!! the Banks is a $175.00 deal but with a small program it is not that crucial (edge ez) as is a bleeder. Where you realy start to notice them is at high hp tunes, do a search on bleeders, there have been several discusions on this

I totally agree with you in regard to "cheepest is not always best"-- usually isn't, but sometimes cheepest is sufficient. I will do a search on bleeders... but I'm still looking for someone to take me through "Air Intake 101". :) Thanks, Paul.

Air intake 101? Anyone? --Paul.

Air intake 101? Anyone? --Paul.

Oh boy.
That would take a lot of space up.

www.howstuffworks.com (http://www.howstuffworks.com)

for the general gist of things.

What we've found is that the bleeder works for 90 % of what people are looking for. The other 10% of the people are running things way beyond the stock truck limits so it's time to spend the big bucks to get every last little bit out of it then.

What we've found is that the bleeder works for 90 % of what people are looking for. The other 10% of the people are running things way beyond the stock truck limits so it's time to spend the big bucks to get every last little bit out of it then.

So would you recommend this valve or the big head for use with your extreme, steve ?

We use the boost tube as we have found it works just fine. We have some customers that have use the big head and we have been unable to find any differences between the two. If your looking for perfect it will never be found but in theory a wastegate with a stiffer spring in place should be better. The adjustable bleed as showen above allows yoou to change the settings based on what your doing which makes it nice if you want to cut the boost for normal driving then crank it up when going to a Race or dyno event.