Background- bought truck July 2004..Put 60,000+km on in past year.
Consistantly gets 20+ MPG with my foot in it always. Truck has never stalled...

Ran it out of fuel yesterday on the way home fueled up from my 2 gallon can that I ALWAYS have in the truck and drove home...
On my way to the Cardlock to fuel up, cruising at about 50mph it seemed like someone turned off the ignition just for a second and turned it back on. When I got home I added 150ML of Howes to my 82 Litres of fuel. (I never add Howes to this truck just the Cummins) Truck did same thing this morning on way to work. No codes.. Is my FSD going south?

As well since I put my 4" pipe on I had a WHUMP WHUMP exhaust sound when applying the brakes when the convertor was locked. Kinda got used to it. Posted question here months back but concensus was the free flow exhaust. Sound is now gone....truck idles very smooth at 650.

I added a boost fooler on the weekend at have it set for 10PSI under load.
Truck did set a code 78, so I turned it down a bit and no codes since.

Sorry for the long post...

Sounds like a driver off top o my head, yours still pump mounted, if so out of fuel which is supposed to pull away heat from driver on a pump mounted driver could have caused your driver to go out to pasture, but before 100% condemning it outrite go through diagnostics in FAQ, you also may be able to salvage the driver by a retorquing of the transistor lock nuts on back side of driver under the plastic caps. Just a little more than snug 10 inch lbs is about max I'd go so you don't snap off the studs.

Sounds like a driver off top o my head, yours still pump mounted, if so out of fuel which is supposed to pull away heat from driver on a pump mounted driver could have caused your driver to go out to pasture.

come to think about it my pump went shortly after i once ran out of diesel. wanted to see just how many miles i could go on an absolutely 100% full tank of fuel. had to restart it a couple times till i could safely pull over and dump my 5 gallon jerry can in. and do you know I cannot remember how many miles I did get. :badidea:

Try to pull a code. If none than the PMD would be a likely suspect. One other thing. The injection pump works very hard on these trucks. The only relief it getts is the fuel running through it. The fuel tank is a giant heat sink to cool the fuel off going back to the pump.

Thanks for the input guys but PMD is mounted on a dealer installed FSD cooler. (see sig) Has been there since I bought the truck. In fact I looked at 9 or 10 trucks before I bought this one and every one had an FSD cooler..I will try re-torqueing the nuts this weekend. Truck stalled on me today....first time in 64,000 KM... I wonder if I shook the PMD harness loose soldering the wires to the MAP sensor for the boost fooler? I will check this first.

Doh missed the cooler in the sig, your cooler is it intake mounted, my driver went 1 time on the engine mounted and 2 time on drivers side fender, retorque of nuts fixed twice last time #4 it fixed it for about 50 feet, I went with Heath after that

It could be the ignition switch itself too. Not the key switch either, but the big relay that makes it all happen. Do your gauges or anything else act like the key was turned off? Both ignition switch issues and PMD's can look alike in their failures.

sounds stupid, but double check your battery connections before spending any money. Pay close attention to the ground on driver's side battery. If that connection is bad, it can give pmd-like symptoms. Tighten all terminals then see if you can rotate cable against battery. If there is ANY movement, you have a bad connection. In my particular case, I added a ground cable connected to the top post. Not saying this is your problem, but it's a very good place to start, especially since EVERY fuel control component relies on good battery connections. Personally, I spent money on the more expensive parts before diagnosing bad battery connections.:cool:

It could be the ignition switch itself too. Not the key switch either, but the big relay that makes it all happen. Do your gauges or anything else act like the key was turned off? Both ignition switch issues and PMD's can look alike in their failures.

I have the old ignition switch out of my truck. I repaced it because I thought it was bad. It's not. I'll accept any reasonable offer.

Again, check battery connections first. If truck won't start, adding a ground with your jumper cables, either terminal to terminal on your top posts, or driver's side top post to block. Check all grounding straps while you're at it (pass side battery to body, tranny dip stick tube mounting stud to frame-frame to body.)

After you've ruled out ground connections, then you can look towards other components. It costs less.

Are your stalling problems gone now Joispoi?

Thanks for all the reply's guys.... Removed FSD cooler this morning as truck stalled 2x on way to work. The allen head screws that holds the driver to the cooler were very loose. I checked the nuts on the back and yes they were loose as well. Hopefully this is it..Truck still has a PMD mounted on the pump. I have always considered that to be my spare. Is there an easy way to plug the PMD in without removing the intake? I may have to in the near future.

Thanks for all the reply's guys.... Removed FSD cooler this morning as truck stalled 2x on way to work. The allen head screws that holds the driver to the cooler were very loose. I checked the nuts on the back and yes they were loose as well. Hopefully this is it..Truck still has a PMD mounted on the pump. I have always considered that to be my spare. Is there an easy way to plug the PMD in without removing the intake? I may have to in the near future.


Not really, extension harness makes it somewhat easier, but on a hot engine not my idea of fun by the roadside, best bet is to remove it from the IP when things are cool, and keep in the glovebox assuming you are out of warranty and you don't have to hear a dealer say, no warranty because it isn't pump mounted, in that case get a glovebox spare new or used.

At 1 time I had 4, 1 glove box, 1 IP mount, 1 one in hand for R&D, and one on a DSG/Kennedy cooler, now a Kennedy mount as the spare (in engine bay), 1 on IP (still some IP warranty left), a Heath mount on the bumper as the main one; when & if it fails and until warranty replacement arrives Kennedy mount is the back up plan.

Are your stalling problems gone now Joispoi?

Almost a week with no stalling:D .

Is there an easy way to plug the PMD in without removing the intake?

None that I am aware of. Whenever I have to take the upper intake off, I use the 10mm socket attached to my cordless drill. It's a good time saver.