I have had lots of play in my wheel for a couple months. I recently went from a 315/75/16 tire to a 36x14.50x16 tire. I now have a major viration. I think its all in the steering. I replaced the tie rod ends over the weekend. I still have the vibration. I noticed some play in the center link while I was changing out the ends. So, has onyone tackled this themselfs? How much are parts? Do they make aftermarket parts?

Moog makes aftermarket versions.

Know who sells them? I cant track any down at NAPA, Aut Tire and Parts or Autozone!

I would have the tires checked for balance and out-of-roundness. Larger tires tend to be buggers.

You can check out of roundness yourself by parking on a hard smooth surface and jacking up one at a time each corner so the tire is just lifted off the ground. Maybe a 1/4 to 1/2" gap from the ground. Then spin the tire. Watch the gap. If it's more than 1/4" chnge as it spins this could be the problem.

I have done that already. I spent 5 hours on her Saturday morning going from front to back looking over and re-torquing the lift. Checked the ball joints, tie rods, rear end, blocks, shocks, the whole nine yards. This is the only thing left. Had the tires balanced and trued 3 times now. Its not the tires. I cant get the vibration to move from the front end when I rotate the tires.

I had my SM, whos a friend check out my front end on Saturday. I had the same problem. Idler arms etc were all nice and tight. His best guess was the steering stabilizer shock. That was my guess too after checking out everything pervious to his check.


I wonder if Rancho has a setup or a shock for our application


Bill

Yes they do. I had one. Sent it back. It didnt feel any different thatn stock. What problems are you experiencing? I feel like the whole front end it going to shake out at 58-62 mph!

Yes, I had my idler and pitman arms replaced.


Here's the story: I decided I should try a 4x4 launch one day just out of curiosity to see how much harder it would launch. I tacked it up to about 2 grand (I didnt know what I was doing at the time) and left off the brake and nailed it. It broke all 4 tires loose and hopped like crazy and bent the right side tie rod into a 45 degree angle.


I took it to the shop to get it fixed. After they checked stuff out they told me I had play in the steering wheel and that I needed new pitman and idler arms. So I trusted them and told them to put them on.


Came back to pick it up and they through a $300 bill at me just for the pitman and idler arms plus the labor to install them(not including the tierod or the labor for that)


I took the truck and it didn't drive any different than before.


So, I think I got good hosing on that one. There was still the same tiny amount of play in the wheel too.

When you jacked your front end up did you find any play/slack in your idler or pitman arm?

I did find some lay in the idler arm. But, when one goes out, do they both go out?

I did find some lay in the idler arm. But, when one goes out, do they both go out?


Not nessecarily, but if your gonna replace one might as well replace the other. I still am not sure thats your problem. I guess with 36" tires it might cause more of a vibration problem than you would see with smaller tires. It sounds more like wheel bearing to me. Did you not feel alot of play in your wheels? Like alot of movement left to right when jacked (only the wheel/hub not the whole front end)? I just know that alot of vehicles that are lifted run into wheel bearing problems.

Maybe the rubber control arm bushings can't handle it?

Energy Suspension

Did you check the bolts that hold down the steering box. I mean this is a really hail mary shot, But a 88' 1 tonner we had, had this absolutely horrible shimmy when traveling above 50, Or when hitting a nasty pot hole. Ended up that the bolts would come loose to the steering box and just throw everything out of wack.


Another person mentioned here at this site that the only real way to balance a tire is by a "road force" balancer????? I think it was WhiteDuramax that mentioned it. I dont see what else it could be.


How long have you been running that wheel and tire setup?


Bill

the idler arm is easy to get out 2 bolte and the nut for the shaft on the end of the idler arm joint. the pitmen would require the gear box losned and positione back so you can gain access between the front diff and the front frame support. the center link is one unit from side to side. seen the center link on many truck get wear at the little rubber boot on each side (inner tie rod)..this can cause a virbration....

The bearings are good. No play in the hub. I thought it was my inner tie rods....I replaced them. I have went over evrything with a fine tooth comb. The idler arm is the only thing I can find play in. Someone else metioned the bushings. Its possible, but there are trucks WAY bigger that mine that have the stock bushings. I did check the uppers, the look great. The last time I went to have my tires balanced, I went to a place that had a HUNTER machine. I think they did do the force balance. Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

Well I have replaced the inner tie rods, outter ends, pitman and idler arms, rebalanced the tires 3 times, once road forced, and got and alignment. Still have the vibration. I am at a loss. It weird how it fades in and out. Its not constant. Also, get this, on a freshly paved road (asphalt) the vibration is worse and more noticable. It kinda sticks around, it dont fade in and out. Got any ideas? I am about ready to sell the tires, crank down, get a smaller block and go back to 33's!!

Don't know if this helps but I was talking to a guy over here about his 6" Pro Comp lift on a 2002 HD. He had the vibration problem you're talking about after installing 35's. He installed a slip yoke eliminator kit in the rear and all is good now. He also thought the vibration was coming from the front but it wasn't. Worth checking into.

I would stop guessing and start measuring. An Electronic Vibration Analyzer would be the weapon of choice. From your description, I think you are feeling first and second orders of vibration. It's possible you are feeling a third order, but you would have to be traveling quite fast. Do you feel it in the seat? Is it low and rumbly? Or is it high and fast like a tool engraver? Once you measure the frequency and amplitude, the guessing is over and the repairs can begin. This is how I would approach this problem, Hope it helps. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

It is in the seat and feels worse on my passenger side. It is low and rumbly. So...........whats the problem> http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

What were your road force numbers on your tires?? You could try a set of tires that you know do not vibrate off of another vehicle to see if its the tires. I would guess that it is either tires or from the driveshaft. Might have to pull the shaft and have it checked.

I would drive over to Hoot's house, and borrow his wheels!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


I would guess 10 to 20 Mhz, 1st order vibration. It sounds like you have high R.F.V. If you can't get a vibration analyzer, swap the wheels.


Seriously, put your original wheels back on. If the vibration goes away, you know it's in the wheels.Edited by: Geerrhead

If it's in the seat, then I would second the vote for d-line vibes. If it was in the tires, I think you'd feel it in the wheel, more than the seat.

Well.....I used a 315/75/16 on the same wheels fo 8000 miles and the vibe wasnt there. I moved up to the 36x14.50 and that is when I got it. Its not the tires. I cant get the vibe to move from the front end no matter what tire is where.

It's sounds like you answered your own question. I'm curious, why can't it be the tires? You will still feel high R.F.V, on either axle. If you get a vibration analyzer, I'll give you the formula to calculate it. Where are you located? Drive it by sometime. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif Edited by: Geerrhead

Well.....I mean to say I dont think its a out of balance tire. If one was bad I could get the vibe to move form corner to corner. Wouldnt I? I understnd you PM you snet me, it makes sense. The more i think about it, the more I think it might be the case. Would abetter shock help eleviate the problem? I just have some cheapie SuperLift shock on the front right now.





LOL, I would gladly drive it by sometime. But CT is a pretty good drive from MO!! Edited by: 1BADHD

I still think it could be a tire. I work at a tire store and it doesnt really matter where a bad tire is, if its there it will cause vibration problems and sometimes a pull. Seems how you said it started when you switched to these tires. It could also be more than one, are these the radials or the bias? I would be very interested to know what the road force numbers where, but Im sure they didnt tell ya. Did they put them on the back of the tire??

You know, I dont think they ever told me any numbers.....I will look on the tire to see if there is any numbers.

Yea, it does make a difference. If the road force was over around 50 or so, they will probably vibrate some.

I see some chalk marks on the inside, but nothing that resembles a number. Where can I find a Vibration Analizer and waht kind?

Well...


I heard you could buy one from a small engine repair shop. I have seen a Briggs and Stratton version. It was 1 or 2 inches in diameter. They place it against the side of the engine for tuning purposes. I have access to the high tech electronic versions, so I have never pursued the B&S gauge.

This might be it.






<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="95%" align=center bgColor=white border=1>
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<TD align=middle>19200</TD>
<TD align=middle>Vibratach
- The tach that works on all engines, ideal to have in your tool box.</TD>
<TD align=middle><A href="http://www.manddsmallengine.com/briggs/tools/images/19200.jpg" target=top target="_blank">http://www.manddsmallengine.com/briggs/tools/images/19200-s.jpg
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<TD align=middle>$ 21.60</TD></TR></T></TABLE>

So I need to put it on the engine? I am confuesed how this thing works....