Anyone running a pre luber on their truck? I'm thinking with all the other good stuff we're doing filtration/synthetics etc.. to extend the life of these trucks the wear factor all starts with the turn of the ignition. Did a search on the web lots of info, found one site with an application for the DMAX.


http://www.autoenginelube.com/pages/903473/index.htm

I saw the stuff about them a while ago and thought I wanted to get one. I exchanged e-mail with them and suggested that the bottom of the pan (drain plug) might be the worst place to pick up a charge of oil to start the motor every morning. I think most oil pumps pick up from a bit above the bottom. I think I would want to pick up from the dip-stick tube. There was a post a while back from somebody who had put a DIY kit together for < $100, it looked good and I might still do it. There are kits for marine engines, which sometimes stand for many months between start-ups, there is almost certainly one for a marinized version of the isuzu block.

Ooops, different product and different company than the one I remembered. I may have some notes on the other one somewhere, probably a different computer.

later,

This looks pretty good. Much cheaper than the ones with separate pumps. I wonder how long it will hold the pressure? It wouldn't take much until the oil pump kicked in. I guess anything would be better than starting it dry. The more I think about ti, the more I like it. Thanks for the link!!

Before you guys jump into this research ACUSUMP (spelling). It runs off the engine oil pump that pumps pressure into a spring loaded cylinder, holds around two qts oil and when you turn key on it opens a valve and the oil is forced into the galley before you start the engine. ran these on our dirt cars but its been a long time ago. Hope they still make them. Ill ask around.


Geno


Should of looked before I posted, looks close to the sameEdited by: geno

Hi Geno,
Yes, this one is an acusump like design. I tend toward the separate pump for a couple of reasons a) To run for as long as I want to before starting, i.e. to not be limited to the capacity of the reservoir and the held pressure b) To run AFTER I shut the engine off, to keep a still spinning turbo well oiled. My truck stands for a week or more sometimes without being used, I don't feel very confident about the pressurized tank holding enough pressure for that long.
I'll try to dig out the DIY version details - soon.

Those in the know please correct me if I'm off base here but I think that pre-lube is less of an issue if you are using synthetic. Synthetic lubes leave a film so that starting out "dry" is a lot less wearing than if you are using conventional lubes. Another good reason to be running with synthetic.

The coal mine I worked at had quite a few Cummins K2000 engines in the Haul Trucks. They all had Pre Lube and Post Lube. One of the classes I attended on the engine maintenance, they explained why they had the pumps. The first reason was to make sure everything had lubrication at start-up. The post lube was mainly for the Turbo, they said it could keep spinning for a minute or so after the engine was shut down. I have always thought it may extend engine life to have a pre and post lube on a engine

Those in the know please correct me if I'm off base here but I think that pre-lube is less of an issue if you are using synthetic. Synthetic lubes leave a film so that starting out "dry" is a lot less wearing than if you are using conventional lubes. Another good reason to be running with synthetic.
Oil leaves a film. OIL, just regular engine oil.
There are probably NO good reasoons for running with synthetic oil. If you have a problem with this statement consider the factors that REALLY contribute to the demise of vehicles. Look back to the miracle claims of STP and consider how many old people are still driving their '58 Ramblers and 60s Mercury Comets http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif
Right, 30/50 years from now we won't have people driving around in their 02s, 03s and 04s Duramaxes BECASUE they used synthetic oil.

[QUOTE=ArrBee
There are probably NO good reasoons for running with synthetic oil. ...Right, 30/50 years from now we won't have people driving around in their 02s, 03s and 04s Duramaxes BECASUE they used synthetic oil.[/QUOTE]


Awright!! The UNI thread is dying out, things were starting to get a bit boring. This ridiculous statement should liven things back up!!Edited by: Oldman

Gee, does this mean that my engine won't run for hours with no oil like I seen on the TV?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Shocked.gif

Oldman,
You REALLY need to quote the whole post, selective quotations like that are close to the sort of tricks that politicians pull. Do you REALLY believe that your engine is going to crap out before the rest of the truck is ready for the jy ? Do you REALLY Believe that synthetic oil will make a critical difference in the 10, 15 or 20 year period ? Are you going to keep a vehicle that long ? Sure, an original early mustang would be nice to have and to have had since new, but we don't know what will become collectable until a long time later. On (Wal or K)mart's regular $4.xx a gallon that engine would outlast the rest of the truck if it is changed at proper intervals.

freddyo,
It might.
Synthetic oils are just a waste of money. You can throw your's where you want to, you just can't convince me to do the same with mine http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif STP was a hoax, so was tetra ethyl lead, I'm not up for the synthetic one.

Not trying to start anything here but I read somewhere that the synthetic oil drains off the internal parts faster than regular oil.


If this is true, you would better with dino oil.

Oldman,
You REALLY need to quote the whole post, selective quotations like that are close to the sort of tricks that politicians pull. Do you REALLY believe that your engine is going to crap out before the rest of the truck is ready for the jy ? Do you REALLY Believe that synthetic oil will make a critical difference in the 10, 15 or 20 year period ? Are you going to keep a vehicle that long ? Sure, an original early mustang would be nice to have and to have had since new, but we don't know what will become collectable until a long time later. On (Wal or K)mart's regular $4.xx a gallon that engine would outlast the rest of the truck if it is changed at proper intervals.

freddyo,
It might.
Synthetic oils are just a waste of money. You can throw your's where you want to, you just can't convince me to do the same with mine http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif STP was a hoax, so was tetra ethyl lead, I'm not up for the synthetic one.


Sorry ArrBee, I wasn't trying to mislead, just cut out what I felt was not important to what I was saying. To answer your last:


Yes, there is a good possibility the engine will go first.


Synth oil will, based on my own observations/experiences over the last 31 years, make a huge difference, for the better.


Yes, I will keep a vehicle that long. Daily drivers don't usually stay with me that long but those that do double duty do. I am the original owner of the 84 Land Crusier at the house. I see no reason why I won't have this D-Max just as long.


I'm not keeping it/them because of collectable status. I use my vehicles.


My own experience indicates the dino oil will not perform as well as the synth. Things I have personally observed: Much easier cold weather starts, reduced operating temperatures, increased fuel economy, significantly reduced engine wear. Believe what you want, it's your choice. I KNOW syntheic oil is not a waste of money.

Try the -<BIG>Motor Block Oil Bypass Kit- $50 Each</BIG>


from kaleco auto (second item from the bottom)


http://www.kalecoauto.com/perf.htm





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Lets see, what's out there right now ?
Vehicles that I have "handed down" but still live here from time to time (like, they're in the yard/driveway right NOW) include an '80 Olds station wagon, an '80 AMC Concord wagon, a still awaiting a new owner '87 diesel suburban. Then there is a '94 Dodge Intrepid that won't quit, but at only 157K miles that is still quite new. All running/runnable, all fed dino oils at regular sheduled intervals during their first 5 or 10 years, all neglected to greater or lesser extents by their later users.
Neither of us seems to have a statistically valid sample size, so we can't prove ourselves right or the other one wrong.
I propose that we agree to disagree ?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

WOW, give me a break. Get into the 21st century, read the reviews and analysis, and get with it. Dino oil is, well, dino thinking. Some may not be able to make the leap.

The topic started pre-lube or not pre-lube. It sounds like a reasonable thing to do, the basis seems sound, so if it is not a matter of 175 bux, then do it. I have a system on order, and will eliminate the most frequent wear factor my truck will see, especially sense it sits for a week or so at a time. Edited by: ChevyPackin'Heat

I propose that we agree to disagree ? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


If we have to I guess I can go along with that. Though it would be more fun to start a new thread and argue this for a week or two!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Back on topic, I checked out a couple of pre-lube systems a few years ago. Great thing to have, but they were expensive! This one looks pretty nice. I'dlike to see oil pressure readings with this both before and during start up .

Moroso, I thought made the ACUsump system didn't they?

I propose that we agree to disagree ?
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Darn, altogether too civilized. I was getting ready for the fire and brimstone.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif

I am sold on the synthetics - lots of years, lots of research. I looked into recycling synthetics as a business at one time (in a country with an astronomical import duty on petro products). The synthetic molecules do not break down. Recycling consists of getting rid of the impurities and replacing the detergent and you've got new oil.

Its not a statistical sample but I'm running a GM gasser with 150k mi. that has a solid 58 lbs. of oil pressure at 1500 rpm. It's not just that the engine lasts longer, its a tighter engine in the meantime.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

For those considering a pre-lube, a feature that you should be looking for, in those that use a head of air, is some kind of seperation between the oil and the air, typically a bladder. Otherwise the oil will absorb the air head in short order and you will have to regularly recharge it. A pain in the a__.

Darn, altogether too civilized. I was getting ready for the fire and brimstone.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif .


I was all ready for it but he came back with that response. Just can't argue with a guy who's being nice!!




For those considering a pre-lube, a feature that you should be looking for, in those that use a head of air, is some kind of seperation between the oil and the air, typically a bladder. Otherwise the oil will absorb the air head in short order and you will have to regularly recharge it. A pain in the a__.


Good point. Do you know if the system above falls into this category?

I recall somebody making one from an agricultural sprayer pump. It was a lot cheaper than the ones on the market. It just didn't have the electronic brain to automatically start and stop.

Oldman -

I'm not familiar with the unit. I had one many years ago. Outside of the bladder part, one can be made quite simply with an old fire extinguisher with a schraeder valve tapped/welded into the bottom (going to be the top) so it can be charged with air when necessary. Install it upside down plumbed from the bottom into the lub system through a constant duty solenoid valve actuated by ignition-on. Simple.

Several varieties for your perusal.





http://www.autoenginelube.com/pages/903473/index.htm


http://www.masterlube.net/home.asp


http://www.espperformance.com (http://www.espperformance.com)

OK I have a question.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


If the tank on these prelube kits hold a couple of quarts of oil would you have to add 2 more quarts? If not would it be the equivalent of running 2 quarts low then? If you add oil then would you not have too much oil at start up? That is when my pressure is the absolute highest. (or when the pressure comes up. ) I would worry about too much oil in the motor...


I don't know. Am I off base here?

OK I have a question.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


If the tank on these prelube kits hold a couple of quarts of oil would you have to add 2 more quarts? If not would it be the equivalent of running 2 quarts low then? If you add oil then would you not have too much oil at start up? That is when my pressure is the absolute highest. (or when the pressure comes up. ) I would worry about too much oil in the motor...


I don't know. Am I off base here?

Yes, no and yes.

When you install it your engine needs to be up to the full mark. Then you start your engine and "charge" the tank (very much like a captive air tank on a well) then you turn your engine off and you will indeed be low. So you top it up, done.

When you next turn the key to ON, the pressure from the reservoir puts oil to your engine. Hopefully before it all forces its way through the "oh, so tight" clearances and gets down to the pan you will start the engine again, which will recharge the tank and there shouldn't be any surplus kicking around. In theory you COULD collect the extra oil in the pan, but I think it would take a while - a LONG WHILE, not the "wait to start" interval of glow plugs.