What comes with this kit? Any complaints by those people using it?

This is taken directly from the cognito webpage
http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/01-06_GM_8-lug/2-3_leveling_system.htm

1. First, we offer either new shock brackets that replace the factory shock bracket that is bolted to the factory lower control arm, or aftermarket extended length shocks. If you are on a budget, the new shock brackets extend the lower shock mounting point so that the factory front shocks can be used and will not bottom out at full suspension droop. If you would like to upgrade your front shocks, we offer aftermarket replacements such as Pro Comp ES3000 or Bilstein 5125 series that are longer than stock and custom tune your front suspension dampening.

2. Second, we use replacement tubular upper control arms that relocate the bump stop on the a-arm to maximize the down travel of the front suspension. This allows the suspension to cycle without being prematurely stopped, and creating the harsh ride that occurs when just turning up the torsion bars, or changing the torsion bar adjuster keys. The Cognito tubular upper control arms use a polyurethane bump stop to provide a subtler stop, unlike the factory upper arms that use metal-to-metal stops.

3. The Cognito tubular upper control arms, correct the upper ball joint angle that is a problem with angles of the factory upper control arms after turning up the suspension. The alignment of the front end is also corrected so that it will fall into factory alignment specifications, something that is almost impossible on a truck leveled out with the factory upper control arms.


4. Last, the Cognito tubular upper control arms are supplied with bolt in upper ball joints. The factory upper control arms use a press in ball joint, and on some vehicles in order to change the upper ball joints, a new upper control arm with the pressed in ball joint must be purchased.

No complaints. Awesome kit. Never realized how little travel there is in the stock suspension until I put this kit on. If your doing it get the idler and pitman arm supports as well.

No correction to CV joint or lower ball joint angles?
Is 3" of lift still a "safe" angle?

The new tubular upper aarm is supposedly redesigned to make the balljoint angles better, and come with bolt-in balljoints.

CV angles would be as steep as cranking anyway, but your ride quality is much better than just cranking, and the balljoint angles are better.
The aarm redesigned helps where if you've cranked too much you lose clearance between the stock upper aarm and the factory bumpstop. I had mine limiting my travel. The aarm would hit metal to metal on the bumpstop. The new aarm is reshaped to provide more clearance there, and has an adjustable bumpstop piece with a non-metal end.

Is 3" of lift still a "safe" angle?

Nope, not on my 1 ton dually. I first cranked mine to 3" of lift in the front with green keys, had a vibration of the CV's. I de-cranked it to 2.5" and the vibration has almost gone, but not quite, truck is still not level. Still makes me nervous about early failure of the CV's. I think I'll just lift my truck 4" with a spindle lift. I know then my CV's will be inline as designed. The Cognito kit will work fine with a CC SB but isnt enough to level the CC DRW.

Nope, not on my 1 ton dually. I first cranked mine to 3" of lift in the front with green keys, had a vibration of the CV's. I de-cranked it to 2.5" and the vibration has almost gone, but not quite, truck is still not level. Still makes me nervous about early failure of the CV's. I think I'll just lift my truck 4" with a spindle lift. I know then my CV's will be inline as designed. The Cognito kit will work fine with a CC SB but isnt enough to level the CC DRW.

Where were you on this thread? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53004

That's what I needed to know.

I believe the only lift spindles are made for 2 wheel drive IIRC.

They're not really lift spindles as in moving the hub down, but the 6"+ kits lengthen the spindle to correct the UCA geometry, and drop the LCA mount as well as the front diff, keeping the CV angles correct.

If you want more than an inch or two, I think the smart move is a 6" kit and de-crank the TR's to lower it a couple of incles... better CV angle than stock (or the same, some of the 6" kits only drop the diff 4.5") and improved ride quality through correct geometry.
Only problem is it moves the front wheels outboard an inch or two and stock wheels (5" backspacing) won't fit... dually front rims are definitely out of the question.

won't fit... dually front rims are definitely out of the question.

Do you know if the 4" Rancho lift will still kick the front tires outward?

All of the kits that include new spindles move the tires out.
The only one that doesn't (and will work with stock wheels) is the ProComp.
Problem is, it is a WAY more involved installation. Instead of moving the lower half of the system down and lengthening the spindles, it moves the UCA's down as well, retaining all of the factory parts, but requiring more cutting and welding.
Cost is comparable (about $1500-$1900 plus installation).

I don't have the kit myself, but isn't CST a full drop kit with no spindles?

Could be... I haven't seen it. I was going by what I was told... which come to think of it... was a guy that sells ProComp :rolleyes:

Put in Hill 4x4 keys in a couple of years ago and raised front end 2.5". Put Bilsteins in a year ago and put on 265's. At 30k, the steering began to get a slight "rattle". Bought a Conito Pitman/Idler kit and the thing worked great. Feels like a brand new truck.

I wish there was a way to raise the front without making stuff up there more likely to break.

Been thinking about getting this kit and 265s on stock PYO rims. Will the 1/4" spacer be needed or not?

For 265s & stock rims you wouldn't need the kit, unless you want to level the truck.
Green keys are a waste of money, I got 3" out the stock keys, at 2 3/4 now to get rid of that dam vibration.

1/4" spacer as in a wheel spacer to move the wheel outward?
That's the opposite of where most of us end up wanting to go... we have trouble finding a wheel made by someone other than American Racing with a 16x8 in a backspacing of MORE than 4 or 4.25. The stock 16x6.5 is a 5" backspacing.

285/75-16's will fit that without rubbing anything, but IMHO, a 285 is simply too wide for the stock wheels. 265 is okay, but I wouldn't go bigger.

The stock wheel on a Tundra/Tacoma is a 16x8, and while the base model comes with a 245/70-16, the TRD and Limited 4x4 come with 265/70-16 (2wd Limited gets a 17").

My plan is to level the truck with Cognito kit and then install 1" or 1.5" rear blocks. By doing so, I've created a modest "lift" for more ground clearance. The reason for rear block is so my truck will be level when it is running with ballast full time in the winter and also when towing heavy.

I am sure the 285 would look better but I want to stay with stock rims and also have room to run chains. Cognito said that some may need the wheel spacers. I need to know if I will need them with my stock PYO rims? Do you think the 265 will look fine with my setup plan?

They'll look better than the 245s that are on there now.
With a full 1.5" lift front and rear, I'm not sure the 265's will fill the wheel wells very well.
I loved the look of mine when I put the 285's on (just cranked the bars to level the front), but when I put my roof rack on the shell, suddenly the tires look small again. I'm smelling some 315's in the distant future :D

If you are going to use the Cog' to level the truck, then lift the rear again (so it's no longer level), what's the point? If you want more height, cool, but if you are looking at the Cog' just to clear the new tires, you won't need it, and I don't think you'll need it with chains. Definitely not on the rear, and I don't think you'll need it on the front.

Slap the 265s on and see how it looks.

I am not looking for something to help clear the tires. I know that 265s will fit fine. It is just that I would like a little more ground clearance. As I mentioned earlier, the point of leveling the truck and then adding rear blocks is so my truck will be level when it have some load in the rear (ballast, towing, etc.). I don't like it when the rear is lower than the front. Not only does it make you look overloaded, but also affect steering/stability.

Maybe I should just crank up the torsion bars and then put the 265s on. Problem is, I am not sure how many turns would be within reasonable range, and still be able to come in alignment. Keep on mind that I plow snow in the winter because I heard it's not good to have CV angle too high with alot of load on it?

This is what my truck looks like with 2" rear blocks and bars cranked to 2 1/2 ". Still has 1" rake front being lower.

Maybe I should just crank up the torsion bars and then put the 265s on. Problem is, I am not sure how many turns would be within reasonable range, and still be able to come in alignment. Keep on mind that I plow snow in the winter because I heard it's not good to have CV angle too high with alot of load on it?
Cognito is still going to mess up your CV angles just as badly as green keys because it does not move the spindles or the diff.
If you're plowing, I'd adjust the stock TR's to level the truck with the weight of the plow and ballast. This isn't going to increase your ground clearance, but is going to be safest for your CVs.
The next step would be a full 4" lift, or a 6" lift with the TR's de-cranked to 4".
Not a cheap option.

Cognito is still going to mess up your CV angles just as badly as green keys because it does not move the spindles or the diff.
If you're plowing, I'd adjust the stock TR's to level the truck with the weight of the plow and ballast. This isn't going to increase your ground clearance, but is going to be safest for your CVs.
The next step would be a full 4" lift, or a 6" lift with the TR's de-cranked to 4".
Not a cheap option.

Cognito uses green keys, upper control arms are just for getting the right angle on the ball joints so they don't prematurly wear out.
Lifting a truck does not give you more ground clearance, just more clearance for bigger tires, then you will have more ground clearance.

don't think cognito comes with green keys. best bet is to call them and get the lowdown.

The factory torsion bar adjusters are turned all the way up or the vehicle happens to have torsion bars that have sagged more than normal, then new torsion bar adjuster keys needed.

This is what my truck looks like with 2" rear blocks and bars cranked to 2 1/2 ". Still has 1" rake front being lower.

You are a good man for still having a real tree! I posted pics of my truck in the Exterior section and my truck (although dirty) is almost the same as yours including the 2" lift.

I just cut down some trees a couple days ago. Nothing beats a real tree.

I just had the Cognito leveling system, pitman / idler arm kits and Bilstein shocks installed this week. I happen to live near Cognito Motor Sports http://www.cognitomotorsports.com. Their friends at Shocker Motor Sports http://www.shocker-inc.com did the actual install.

I new what I was in for with the CV angles but had to compromise because I tow a heavy 5th wheel and didn't want to lift the rear of my truck very much. I also put 19.5" Brentz 8-hole wheels and GoodYear 245/70 G124's on it at the same time.

I'm very happy with the install, looks and ride quality.

I new what I was in for with the CV angles but had to compromise because I tow a heavy 5th wheel and didn't want to lift the rear of my truck very much. I also put 19.5" Brentz 8-hole wheels and GoodYear 245/70 G124's on it at the same time.

I'm very happy with the install, looks and ride quality.

Sweet! Looks great! Did they actually get your truck level? No CV vibrations? My truck wouldnt level out without CV vibrations at about 68 mph to 80 mph.

Your truck looks great, I have my Rickson wheels on order should be here in a couple of weeks and then I will get my 245's installed.

Thanks! No, it's not completely level (the side picture is deceptive, it's an uphill driveway). I asked them to leave it a little high in the back so I'd sit level when towing, and had read in the forum that getting a dually level probably wasn't possible with this type of lift. No detectable vibrations yet, just :)!

What's the height of the tire's. JD

Nice looking setup!

nice setup!! was cheaper for me to go with th 255/85/r16 same tire height and tad wider.. only went about 2.5 inches with mine and the angles don't look that bad and no vibes at any speed.. p.s. J.D tires 33/10/r16 on mine and 33/9.6/R19.5 on his..

Dually Max,
I hate to be the bear of bad news BUT, Rickson's tooling company quit finishing their wheels. Rickson plans on "finishing their own wheels...in house, in about 4 months or so :rant: !
I've had wheels and Michelins on order for about 5 months, I got a letter stating such about a week ago.

VM,
My wheels are from Brentz Wheels. Back in December, I ordered them on a Monday and had them on the truck that Thursday.

DM