I am going to install a egt probe and have a couple of questions.


What is the easiest way to remove the plastic rivets?


Are they re-usable or destroyed upon removal?

Mine were pretty much wrecked when I got em off. I only pulled off a couple to have enough room to do the EGT probe and never did replace them. I keep intending to get some new ones, but the fender liner is just fine without the couple that are missing.

Your name says it all......http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Its a two piece fastener, pry the center out with a small screw driver, theres a slot on the head to do that. The center doesn't have to come out all the way. just until its loose, then pry the outer/larger portion out. I've had mine in and out for the probe install and fuel filter replacement, still reusing the same fasteners.

Napa even sells a little tool to remove those fasteners properly and without damage. They also sell replacements....

Anyone try the rivet nuts? My passenger's side wheel well comes out with 6 screws/washers into a rivet nut. Very fast, secure, and no messing around. Fuel filters are right there in front of me.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif SPICER

Do you have any part numbers for this "rivet nut?" It sounds as if you replaced the plastic studs with screws. Is this correct? I am very interested in how you did this as I have to remove the liner often.

I work at and aerospace company where they are laying around like candy.

http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/rivnut/images/DSCN2985.jpg

http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/rivnut/images/DSCN3049.jpg

http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/rivnut/images/DSCN3055.jpg

Here are the rest of the pictures. They're just internally threaded rivets.




More Pics (http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/rivnut/index.htm)

WillowCreekStable


That worked perfectly, guess I made it harder than it really is.


I want to thank everyone for their input. There is a wealth of knowledge on this great site. Hope I can help out somebody one day.

Do you have any part numbers for this "rivet nut?" It sounds as if you replaced the plastic studs with screws. Is this correct? I am very interested in how you did this as I have to remove the liner often.
As shown above......The ones shown are aluminum. I can't recall the size, but they are slightly bigger than the fender plug holes in your fender. The holes must be drilled JUST big enough to get the rivnut through. Be careful, there is one hole at the top which is directly in front of your radiator overflow reservoir. If you push the drill bit too far you will put a hole in it and not be happy. Then the rivnut is threaded onto the rivnut gun, inserted into the hole and squeezed into place. There is a lot of info about it on thedieselpage.com, do a search. Most of the rivets you will find are steel. These are stronger but will rust. I used aluminum. Also do not OVER squeeze the gun because you will bust the rivet. If you Do bust it, just drill it out and start again. I busted a bunch until I realized I didn't need to squeeze so hard. LOVE IT!!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif SPICER
On edit, you will also obviously need to buy matching screws and fender washers. I got stainless steel. Works great. Most bigger hardware stores probably have these.Edited by: SPICER

Is the RivNut tool at Harbor Freight any good? Harbor Freight 1210 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1210)

The next cheapest one I can find is over $50. If this is junk, I'll forget it. Can someone vouch as to whether this $13 kit really works?

Thanks!

Dittos to Spicer's post…

Tundracamper,
If you buy a RivNut tool, I would recomend you get the better one (more$). I started out with a cheap one from JC Whitney that looks like the one from harbor freight. The JCW tool is OK but it won't last to last too long when using it with 1/4 Rivnuts. The stamped sheet metal used for JCW tool is quite soft. After installing the rivnuts on my fender liner it was bent. I ended up buying a professional quality Marson (http://www.marsoncorp.com/hand_rivet_tools.htm) tool from a local fastener supplier (about $75 IIRC) that works much better and will last.
http://www.marsoncorp.com/images/39000.jpg

Also,
The 1/4 in size RivNut is the size to use but it requires the holes in the body to be opened up slightly with a drill. Like Spicer said be careful with the hole under the coolant overflow tank. On mine there wasn't enough clearance to drill without removing the tank. I reused the plastic fastener on this one but I plan to replace it the next time I remove the liner. I also used some locktite to help prevent the Rivnuts from becoming loose.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif Edited by: jbplock

Thanks! That's exactly the type of info I was needing.

I noticed that the Marson unit only goes up to 3/16". The Big Daddy is needed for the 1/4" rivets. That unit looks different than above - and more expensive.

Ah - The 39200 goes up to 1/4".

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/498_tstool.jpg

Side cutters/nippershttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/DDC_nippers.jpg work very well in removing the fasteners. Its easy to get them under the head.

I noticed that the Marson unit only goes up to 3/16". The Big Daddy is needed for the 1/4" rivets. That unit looks different than above - and more expensive.

Ah - The 39200 goes up to 1/4".

Tundracamper,

Yes, Thanks for clarifying this http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif ...The tool in your picture looks like the one I have. The picture I posted is a pop-rivet tool - not the RIVNUT-thread setter tool.

This is the Kit I have...
http://www.marsoncorp.com/images/thrkit.JPG
Thread-Setter Kit / 34501 (http://www.marsoncorp.com/threadedInserttools.htm)

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif