Well, I finally got the TTS and I am very :D . I had the PPE Hot + HJ/AT before this new computer. The truck runs better, shifts better, responds better and melts tires:) . I am very pleased with the product and cannot wait to get the truck to the track. I recently installed the big head and have it set to 8 turns, which equals about 30psi, on my truck. Seems to work well. I had it set to 9 turns and seen 33-34psi...dont need a turbo yet.;)

So..for the title of this topic, I will get to the story. It is late at night and the roads are clear. This means its a perfect time to try some boosted launches and see how it shifts through the gears. (I had my buddy with me and he was all excited to ride in the truck the first time) So here we go...build about 13-14psi...brakes cannot hold...put it to the floor. The truck launches for a second...I hear the chirp from the tires and BANG! The next thing I hear is thump, thump, thump. :eek: So I pulled off to the side of the road and check the damage. You can see the result of the launch...not good. So, in the garage I go to replace it. It took about 20-25 min to remove only and $100 later (Advance Auto) with core swap. Now I gotta go and install it:rolleyes:

They refunded the core charge when you gave them that?

Welcome to the club! (Turn your t-bars down next time)

Sorry to see that. :(

Perhaps lowering the torsion bars before that hard of a launch in the future. :D

after reading the thred and seeing bang , consider your self lucky, it could have been a bang for $2000 for a turbo

That's too bad. How high are the torsion bars cranked up?

tape the snot out of that box before you attempt to take that core back....

They refunded the core charge when you gave them that?

Welcome to the club! (Turn your t-bars down next time)

Whats wrong with that shaft?:D I think it just had a bad cv boot):h . They told me that as long as the axle was not broken. I did not ask any questions and went along with it. I thought I would have to pay without the core refund.

As far as the t-bars....I know, I know. I have always turned them all the way down and just decided to "play" this one time. You live and learn...and replace parts:D

I was actually just teaching my friend a lesson on what not to do with the tbars cranked up!:)

Lesson learned!

That's too bad. How high are the torsion bars cranked up?

Too high:D Dont know the amount of turns, but it is close to maxed out. Bad idea, I know. At least the tierods were ok:)

What do you expect from "teamhertz" :D

What do you expect from "teamhertz" :D


OJ, to come running with parts ):h ):h ):h

Ouch.... that scares me. My Extreme will be going in Friday. My question is, since I have green keys am I asking for the same carnage? I'm betting my risk is considerably higher isn't it?

I lower my T-Bars all the way down until the bolt will come out and have well over 150 boosted launches at the track without any issues.

The angle is what kill's the CV's, and you sure killed that one........

Now you know why Mr. Cole requires that waiver........:eek: ........stuff will break.........

Don't sweat the small stuff.............:D
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Wait a sec. My T-bars are cranked right to the tits with a 6" lift and I never had a problem(yet) We finished the track season with over 400 boosted launches and my front end has held up very well. This is not a common problem for most on here I'm sure. Nick

I lowere my T-Bars all the way down until the bolt will come out and have well over 150 boosted launches at the track without any issues.

The angle is what kill's the CV's, and you sure killed that one........

Now you know why Mr. Cole requires that waiver........:eek: ........stuff will break.........

Don't sweat the small stuff.............:D
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Do you have the factory keys turned up or green keys?

I didn't know you could actually take the bolt out and drive it. Huh. I guess I wouldn't see why you couldn't as all the tension is really on the key itself, the bolt just "adjusts" it for ya.

Oh I'd say common or not, I'm gonna giv'er he!!.....

Pull the bolts out at least the first time and antisieze the heck outa em on reinstall.

With a green key even with your bolts out you will still have a little more crank than a guy with a stocker but oh well, you should be ok.

Hows the trans doing for ya?

I hate to tell you, but the aftermarket ones from AA are nothing short of junk! My last truck had a factory one go at 205,000 miles, I then went through 3 from Advanced in the next 13,000 miles, the third one took the front differenial with it.

will the same carnage happen with a leveling kit????

Pull the bolts out at least the first time and antisieze the heck outa em on reinstall.

With a green key even with your bolts out you will still have a little more crank than a guy with a stocker but oh well, you should be ok.

Hows the trans doing for ya?

Yeah I figure it will still be sitting a little bit higher, due to the index of the key itself.

Probably 2-3k on it I'd say, somewhere around there I'd imagine. Finally put the Co-pilot on 2 weeks ago. Seems to be good? 4-5 shift every once in awhile seems violent, dunno about that. Still haven't had the taps cleared, don't know if that will fix that shift or not? Basically drives like a stocker til ya mat it, nice shifts! With the tow/haul button on it will bark the tires 1/2 on a stock truck, now that's funny right there! Real test will be in 2 days! :rockit:

I hate to tell you, but the aftermarket ones from AA are nothing short of junk! My last truck had a factory one go at 205,000 miles, I then went through 3 from Advanced in the next 13,000 miles, the third one took the front differenial with it.

I know I said Advance Auto, but I actually meant Napa. I called about 10 AA but they did not have them. I finally found 1 at Napa. I dont know why I said I got it at AA. I called the dealer and they told me $585. The guy continued to tell me not to buy it at the dealer as he got two of his at an auto parts store. Nice guy, huh?

Ouch.... that scares me. My Extreme will be going in Friday. My question is, since I have green keys am I asking for the same carnage? I'm betting my risk is considerably higher isn't it?

With the bolts all the way out of a green key truck you are still considerably higher than where you should be for high boosted launches.

Duramaxdiesel,

A 6" lift relocates most all of the componenets up front. Take a look at your CV shafts and observe the angle. They are probably pretty horizontal compared to the pics that were shown here.

Do you have the factory keys turned up or green keys?

I didn't know you could actually take the bolt out and drive it. Huh. I guess I wouldn't see why you couldn't as all the tension is really on the key itself, the bolt just "adjusts" it for ya.

Oh I'd say common or not, I'm gonna giv'er he!!.....

Stock Keys.........never have I attempted a high boost 4x4 launch without lowering T-Bars.........

Make sure you got sleeves, or else you'll explode a tie-rod too........:eek:
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See this post about the quality of aftermaket axles: http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50879

See this post about the quality of aftermaket axles: http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50879

Thanks Max. I never realized about the differences. I actually got a call from Napa and got flagged for the core. I guess someone else must have seen it and said WTF?:D I told them that I wanted to purchase a new one instead as it comes out to be cheaper. I was not going to pay for the core on top of the price. The new part is $140 compared to the $100 + $150 core.

What would you reccomend for a replacement? I will run this one for now, but is there anything besides a $585 OEM that is as strong?

Well, as far as the strongest I would say factory. But you know those can break too:D What about looking for a factory one at a junkyard and keeping the Napa one as a spare? Or possibly look for somebody who is selling the parts left over from a SFA swap?Thanks Max. I never realized about the differences. I actually got a call from Napa and got flagged for the core. I guess someone else must have seen it and said WTF?:D I told them that I wanted to purchase a new one instead as it comes out to be cheaper. I was not going to pay for the core on top of the price. The new part is $140 compared to the $100 + $150 core.

What would you reccomend for a replacement? I will run this one for now, but is there anything besides a $585 OEM that is as strong?

Well, as far as the strongest I would say factory. But you know those can break too:D What about looking for a factory one at a junkyard and keeping the Napa one as a spare? Or possibly look for somebody who is selling the parts left over from a SFA swap?

Sounds like a good idea. It is getting to be winter time here in NJ, so no more track until the spring. I guess I have time to do some searching. The only time the truck will be in 4wd is for plowing and snow days. The axle should hold up to "regular" 4wd use:) . Maybe I will only throw in a 5psi launch here and there.:D

imo, that didnt happen from sheer power, it most likely happened when your frontend started hopping! next time dont boost it up so high, may be a cheaper ride next time!

imo, that didnt happen from sheer power, it most likely happened when your frontend started hopping! next time dont boost it up so high, may be a cheaper ride next time!

Yes, I know it was from the t-bars. Next time I will lower the tbars and boost it higher:D

We can start a new thread called " My truck has so much power it........":) ;)

My truck has so much power it...... made my friends sister puke ):h

Excuss the ignorance, but if you have to adjust your bars all the time, than would'nt that get expensive since it is recomended to have the front end aligned when bars are cranked.

thats why you count the turns!

measure the bolts and reinstall them to that height after running ,that will help in keeping the wheels aligned

I lowered/raised the T-bars 20+ times over the summer. Gets old after a while but you get good at it also :) I always try and jack the front end up if possible when screwing them up or down. ...taking the weight off the front prolongs the life of the bolts and makes them easier to turn. I have always gone by fenderwell height to know when I'm back where i was. Counting threads makes me dizzy :)

Answer taken. I should have known the answer:rolleyes: .
It would seem to be a hassle to have to jack up the front to crank bars.
I am sure there are those that do the boosted launch in 4wd when out cruising around to the store or what ever and are not actually expecting or preped (bars cranked down) to KILL a needed victum.
That would be a sight to see someone do a pit crew scene just before the light changes.
Do you think the person next to you would think twice about racing you if they saw you do that?

man by the looks of that tie rod sleeve you better move it to unless you want to buy some new ones after the next bang):h Tighten her up a little
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11527&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1132768109 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11527&d=1132768109)

i just keep my bars down. not all the way, but close. rides better too

I heard a "bang" w/ my hypertech+LP only I was on a trip from CA to GA. I was in Utah. Needless to say, I learned my lesson as well.

Maaaaaaaannnnn! that sucks. I guess I'm in for it too. I've already snapped a tierod, have sleeves now but I have 285's so my bars are cranked up 5 turns. Are you guys not having rubbing issues going down the track with 285's?? I haven't been to the track yet and won't be able to go often. When I see someone that wants to run on the street, I can't exactly get out and turn em down. Maybe I should lose the bigger tires?:(
Someone asked earlier about the leveling kit, with it(Cognito) will the axes still be at such an angle?
Any other fixes or help, other than turnin down bars?

I ran green keys for a while, but all the way down with them it's like 6-7 turns with the stockers. After bouncing around the track with Diesel Power at Sac Raceway, I pulled the green keys and went back to stock. At least I can get them all the way down for pulling/racing. The stock keys don't go quite as high as the green keys, however.

If you adjust your T-bars a lot; be sure to use a jack and check the torsion nuts for wear. I replace my torsion bolt/nuts about once a year.

Teamhertz get that front end down and hold on!

Doug

i run all kinds of 285's. the ones on the hummer rims are a little wider(wider rims) small amount of trimming and then the only time it rubs is when theres 1200lbs on the frontend!

man by the looks of that tie rod sleeve you better move it to unless you want to buy some new ones after the next bang):h Tighten her up a little
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11527&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1132768109 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11527&d=1132768109)

Do you have your sleeves tightened up to the nut? I just tightened my sleeves up to the end of the thread on the tierod.

Sleeve should be jammed against the nut, or better yet, get rid of the nut and use the sleeve as the jam nut. The threaded part is the weakest part of the tie rod and that is what you want the sleeve covering.

Sleeve should be jammed against the nut, or better yet, get rid of the nut and use the sleeve as the jam nut. The threaded part is the weakest part of the tie rod and that is what you want the sleeve covering.

Thanks Max. I learn something new everytime I visit the board:)

Thanks Max. I learn something new everytime I visit the board:)

You can always learn from the keeper of the boobs ):h

I love being the class nerd on some of this stuff! Am I right doing boosted launches in 2wd does not affect the front end?,all this talk about tie rod ends. I guess Im just concerned about 2wd wheelies and hurting something,,,,,,,yeah, right.

I can't get away w/ doing much of a 2wd launch w/out spinning my tires. You won't hurt anything up front even if your T-bars are cranked.