While visiting with Mike at Quadzilla yesterday we discovered that we both have had broken tierods. I have broken two tierods. Everytime I go offroad messing around I brake a tierod. He is getting beefer tirods made and I am first in line when he get them. I was under the assumption that he will be selling these on his site. So Mike correct me if I am wrong. There is a market for aftermarket tierods for our trucks. Edited by: BassinRVer

I am off road pretty much every day, and rough as heck many times.


And I have yet to hurt anything on the truck. And when I say rough at times, I am saying where the front tires are air borne.

JUST ADD JUICE AND PROPANE TO A HOLESHOT LAUNCH AND YOULL BE WORKING ON YOUR TIERODS TRUST MEhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

Peanutgrwr, didn't you snap one doing a 4-wd launch??? how many psi of boost did you launch with anyways?

YES THE LAUNCH "FROM HELL" WAS 4X4. AS TO HOW MUCH BOOST I HAD I REALLY DONT REMEMBER. IT WAS WHATEVER A DMAX WITH JUICE WILL PUT OUT AFTER STALLING IT A GOOD 20 SECONDS OR MORE WITH MY FOOT ALL THE WAY IN IT.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif I DIDNT HIT THE PROPANE UNTILL I RELEASED THE BRAKE AND THATS WHEN ALL HELL BROKE LOOSE

My truck is about to turn 40 (we may need a partyhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif )


And I have used propane or some other power addons for nearly all those miles. I guess it is the driverhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

What matters worse for me is that with these 2" keyways the angle of the tierods is not level. Mike with Qaudzilla has a stock suspension and he broke his in the same location/fashion.

BassinRVer where are you breaking your tie-rods? Inner joint, outer or actual relay rod? Any pictures? I am running 36" tires on my 1500 Series which has smaller tie-rods and I have yet to have a problem. Any idea what the tie-rods that Mike at Quadzilla are going to end up like? How is he attaching them to the centerlink and steering knuckles? Better yet lets get some pictures.

I would be interested in some beefer relay rods. I have bent them on two different occasions. The ends themslef have held up great.

I would be interested in some beefer relay rods. I have bent them on two different occasions. The ends themslef have held up great.
Best best is to use some chromoly tube threaded wit heim joints. The outer mount is easy, drill out the steering knuckle to accept the heim. The inner heim is a little harder espically of a stock truck. Here are some pictures below.

http://www.bulletproofsuspension.com/data/img/P0003407.JPG

http://www.bulletproofsuspension.com/data/img/P0003419(1).JPG

Welcome aboard Bryan! For once I became a member before you didhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif I hope you find the truck you want.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/424_DSC00486.JPG

I am breaking them One half inch left of the silver bolt.

Part of the problem seems to be the threads themselves create a cracking point. Poor design on the thickness of the rod IMHO.

If you add a few nuts onto the threaded section that might help. Torque them together.

Is there anyone near Bullet proof in WI. They need a truck to look at the tierod for beefer ones. Their address is:

Advanced Automotive Technologies Corp.
Bullet Proof Steering
766 Grand Ave.
Hartford, WI. 53027 Edited by: BassinRVer

I just got off the phone with Fabtech and in the next cuople of months they will have an assortment of replacement steering components for our trucks.

Welcome aboard Bryan! For once I became a member before you didhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif I hope you find the truck you want.
Thanks Mike. I’ll definitely find what I’m looking for and if not I’ll just order what I wanthttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif. Now I’m just waiting for GM to release the SRW3500 and LLY Duramax.
<font size="2">I just got off the phone with Fabtech and in the next couple of months they will have an assortment of replacement steering components for our trucks.</font>
I’m not sure what exactly they will be releasing but I know a guy that is doing all the R&D on the replacement parts. Last time we talked he was running the oem tie-rods and didn’t mention anything about new ones but he was running “boxed” pitman/idler arms that Fabtech had designed.

I am not sure who I talked to but he did say tierods. Time will tell. I may go to the dealer buy new tierods (with the center link) and ship them to Bullet proof steering in WI to fab up tierods for me. Then I will start selling them to yall.

BassinRVr,


Hartford is around 20 mins from me. I'd be more than willing to play test dummy for them so they could see what's there and how they could improve on it.


If you could send me a contact name/number I'll make some arrangements and get back to you.

Problem...
http://chevyhd.com/lift/bentrod.jpg
Answer...look closely
Okay for some the link does not want to work so copy and paste the URL below.
http://www.bulletproofsuspension.com/data/img/P0003419(1).JPG
Make sure there the last #1 appears as (1).Edited by: y2kboti

Victory Red,


I am going to send them a tierod so they can biult one. The only bad thing about taking your truck there is they may want to removed it. I do not think that is okay because you would then need alignment. But call them, Contact us at 262-673-4077 Edited by: BassinRVer

Notice in BassinRVer's suspension photo how close the tie-rod comes to the stabilizer bar. It he tie-rod diameter is increased, that would be a consideration although it doesn't take a whole lot of material to make a big strength change. These trucks don't fly so weight isn't an issue.

I know when they design aircraft they often skimp for weight, sometimes in the wrong places too. Sorry if anybody is getting ready to go on a flight....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Stern Smile.gif

I know I keep repeating this but somebody should try adding jam nuts. It's bending due to the weakness the threads create at a critical juncture. The nuts will add strength... possibly enough to stop the bleeding.Edited by: hoot

It would be safer for the stabilizer to give rather than the tierod. This brings up something. On DmaxDiva's truck the vertical bar that is attached to the stabilizer was bent. I wonder if they bent on purpose to get it out of the way? Does DmaxDiva know about this site?

Hey there, Bassin'...thanks for the heads-up on this site. No, I have'nt yet taken my truck back to 4WParts to have the v-bars checked out; I need to do that soon. It's about time for a rotate/balance job anyway, so I'll mention it when I take it in. I'll be interested to find out more about these aftermarket suspension/steering components you've mentioned...I'll keep an eye out for updates.


Thanks!


DMD

I keep you informed Diva.

I know I keep repeating this but somebody should try adding jam nuts. It's bending due to the weakness the threads create at a critical juncture. The nuts will add strength... possibly enough to stop the bleeding.
Hoot While that is something to consider why put a "bandaid" over the wound? Bandaids don't stick forever and eventually they'll fall off. On the other hand I do agree on non-lifted trucks there isn't much room to increase the diamemter of the relay rod. An easy way to create more room would be to buy slightly longer end links.


It would be safer for the stabilizer to give rather than the tierod.* This brings up something.* On DmaxDiva's truck the vertical bar that is attached to the stabilizer was bent.* I wonder if they bent on purpose to get it out of the way?
What are you talking about??? Any pictures?

When you say end links are you talking about the part connected to the green rubber piece?

What I am talking about is the vertical bar in my pic above. Yall say there is not much room and the vertical bar is the only thing in the way of having largger tierods.

Victorr Red is your offer still good fore you to go see them?

BassinRVer the endlinks bolt to the front sway bar and lower control arm to help reduced body roll. I assume the endlinks are the ‘vertical bars’ you are referring to? By the looks of the picture you posted above the sway bar crosses right over the tie-rod. By replacing the endlinks with longer ones it would raise the sway and give you more room for a larger diameter tie-rod. Check out this (http://www.performancelifts.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1128) thread on another site, we are discussing the same subject.

Your right, Fabtech is not working on tierods just pitman and ilder arm. Edited by: BassinRVer

BassinRver,


Sure the offer is still good. I'll call you soon and we can chat. I'm heading for the Grand Rapids GTG on Friday, will be home late Saturday night.

Your right, Fabtech is not working on tierods just pitman and ilder arm.
Yeah supposedly the arms are “boxed” is how it was described to me and they will last longer. They looking different compared to the stockers but I don’t see how they could prolong the life span.

BassinRVer and Victory Red how about some information on the tie-rods you guys are talking about.

y2kboti,


I chatted briefly with Bassn tonight. He's going to do a call back and make the arrangements. When he get's back to me, I'll call and setup the time to meet with them. I really won't have any real information until after I meet these guys and let them see our setup.


Most of this is BassinRvr's deal. I just happen to be in a locale that makes it possible for them to see and play with a setup live. Just my little thanks to all the freebie's I've gotten so far. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif Than again down the line we'll all need some new rod's if we keep our vehicles long enough, so long term, it'll benefit us all.

I like to call myself the "weekend Fabracator"...always in the garage making/modifying something. I build buggy frames, suspension, nerf bars, bumpers. ETC. I think building a set of "BULLETPROOF" tie rods using chromoly DOM tubing and chromoly hiem joints would do the trick....Question is???


How much are people willing to pay? I'm truley thinking $250.00 COST in MATERIAL alone. (Bad Boy hiems are like $50.00 a piece).

I like to call myself the "weekend Fabracator"...always in the garage making/modifying something. I build buggy frames, suspension, nerf bars, bumpers. ETC. I think building a set of "BULLETPROOF" tie rods using chromoly DOM tubing and chromoly hiem joints would do the trick....Question is???


How much are people willing to pay? I'm truley thinking $250.00 COST in MATERIAL alone. (Bad Boy hiems are like $50.00 a piece).








Any way you could make something that won't make us drill out our factory spindle? Do they make a tepered bolt for Heim joints? Would you replace the entire center link?

I'd keep the center link, and either machine a tapered unit that would fit the O.E. spindle, or drill it out for a grade 8 bolt....

The more I think about it (actually my insurance agent), I need to look into the liability portion of it. "off road use only?" Need to talk to a lawyer before I get started......http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

now you know why my "beefed up" tie rods are only on my truck...

now you know why my "beefed up" tie rods are only on my truck...
Thats fine but atleast post some pictures.