Today I will probably have time to install my lift pumps. I looked at the wiring harness and was wondering if the wires for boost and oil are double wires going into the plug underneath the fuse panel. I was also wondering where the red 14ga. wire for the fuse holder had to be installed. The instructions stated to mound it on the front stud on the front of the fuse/relay box.

The wires are all setup to be done under the fuse box under the hood. The instructions come complete with pictures of everything installed so take a look once your under the hood and then look at the pictures again. Using the factory stud on the firewall to hold the fuse holder is just aeasy way to do it but you can mount it differently is you so choose.

I will mount the fuse holder where it is in the picture. I am wondering where the wire goes to the fuse panel at. I am almost sure that the wires I have identified are the right ones but they are doubles. I have a LB7 and the plugs in the installation picture differ from mine. That is why I was wondering if they are double wires going into the plug.

Best to use a multimeter and find the wire with the coresponding pin for the boost and oil wires

All the wires are called out in the instructions at the two connectors above the driverside valve cover by pin number and color code. Pick your model year and use those wires. Use a DVO meter to check the wires if your not sure about the wires in the loom coming from the valve cover area. Give us a call on Monday if your still unsure.

It's raining for the next couple of days. I thought I might have to use a continuity test.

A continuity test is exactly how I located and confirmed the wires since the instructions give you the pin numbers / conector numbers for your truck. You just have to make sure you are picking up the right wire close to the fuse box.

I found the installation to be pretty easy with two exceptions. One of them is not Steve's fault. My truck is a 2003 and finding the boost sender wire(Lt/green) was a pain. There are three of these wires in the bundle. I used the DVM to find it and of course it was the last wire to test. It was at the bottom of the bundle. (Not Steve's fault)The other was getting the fuel hose off of the top of the tank. I finally had to take the muffler out of the way in order to get both hands up to release the connection. This was done with the fuel release tool and thanks to John@ DPS for letting me use it. Thanks Steve.
Greg

Ok. I finally just finished up this installation and have a question. Without going to the track and testing it, how do I know the pumps are working? I crawled under the truck and put my hand on the first pump and couldn't tell if it was running(with truck on). I double checked all my connections with a DVM and the only thing that confirms their working, is when I took the gray(priming one) wire and grounded it. I could hear the pump start working. So is this a correct install??? Thanks ahead of time.Greg

Ok. I finally just finished up this installation and have a question. Without going to the track and testing it, how do I know the pumps are working? I crawled under the truck and put my hand on the first pump and couldn't tell if it was running(with truck on). I double checked all my connections with a DVM and the only thing that confirms their working, is when I took the gray(priming one) wire and grounded it. I could hear the pump start working. So is this a correct install??? Thanks ahead of time.Greg

A fuel press guage would be easiest. On idle the pumps arent on. (this i didnt realize till i had fuel press guage installed) Looks to be once you hit 900rpm the first pump comes alive. Once you hit 15 pis boost the second pump is turned on.

Isn't the first pump on at idle on the new version? I might rewire mine to have both pumps on all the time. It shouldn't hurt anything.

on my truck the first pump primes at key on then once you have oil pressure it stays on...the second one comes on at 10psi of boost but that quit working on mine so put a switch on it. as far as knowing when they are working get you some LEDS, find a spot where they wont blind you when youre driving and hook the positve wire to a constant hot, hook the negative wire from the LED to the negative wire on the pump.When the pump gets signal from the controller it will also turn the LED on. Works great and theres no doubt when the pump is on. Just make sure to hook the negative to the output to the pump on the controller wire. if you hook to the input it wont work.

The pumps work when oil pressure is above ~25 psi. So if you run a thin oil they may turn off at idle and the engine is at operating temperatures. When ever you turn the key on there is an automatic prime for ~2 seconds. The second pump will come on after ~10 psi boost is reached. There is no need to run them all the time when they are not needed.

finishing installation today...

I went to the track last night and yes the pumps are working. So far Steve, their awesome. I did 5 runs and the truck was very, very consistant. I could totally tell the difference and no bursting.
3-runs in a row
1st 14.449 1/4 @ 90.894mph r/t.097 60' 1.965
2nd 14.433 1/4 @ 92.142mph r/t .051 60' 1.96
3rd 14.437 1/4 @ 91.770mph r/t.030 60' 2.006

Best run was 14.230 1/4 @ 92.267 r/t .135 60' 1.887
Worst. Forgot to put in 4-wheel 14.866 @91.166 r/t.243 60' 2.287

Track is LACR at 2700'Now where did John @ DPS hide the Quad 215:D

We just installed one on one of our customers 2004 LLY. Works well with his Edge Juice and the truck is noticably quieter than before. The install was very simple to do and we liked the mounting bracket between the fuel cooler for keeping everything out of ther way. I would also recommend placing the controller under the fuse box as the instructions suggest, since it offers good protection against corrsion, especailly here in Canada. On the test drive we saw 0-3psi around idle and light throttle and 6-7 under full load on our fuel pressure guage. This was was the fuel pickup kit installed as well.

Please excuse the ignorance but why do we run lift pumps? Are they needed when running the Nicktane filter? If so why?
Thanks

Any tuner running more than about 65hp over stock will generate "fuel starvation" error codes (1093 or 1039).
When this happens, the engine goes into limp mode... 2000rpm max. Not good to have happen when trying to pass a semi on a 2-lane road.

Also, when you remove your old fuel filter, you will see that it is only about 3/4 full... a lift pump will have it completely full. This means that you will use more effective filter media area.

Stock trucks or mild "tow" tunes don't really NEED it, but it's not a bad idea.