hey guys, I read that a lot of you are running a subthump box and 2-10's downfiring. Was wondering what was the best setup for a crew cab truck. I can't do behind the rear seat because of storage constraints, so it has to be under the rear seat. A couple of guys I have talked to have said forget about 2 10's and go with a ported box with 2 8's. What would sound the best? With the subthump box, what are the best speaker match for the box?

hey guys, I read that a lot of you are running a subthump box and 2-10's downfiring. Was wondering what was the best setup for a crew cab truck. I can't do behind the rear seat because of storage constraints, so it has to be under the rear seat. A couple of guys I have talked to have said forget about 2 10's and go with a ported box with 2 8's. What would sound the best? With the subthump box, what are the best speaker match for the box?

Really?:eek: What kind of 8's are they talking about? I have NEVER heard ANY 8's sound better than the same kind of 10's. pure physics. 10's go deeper than 8's, 12's go deeper than 10's...and so on. the bigger the speaker, the lower the hertz, and the bigger the soundwave.

Personally, I don't know, because I haven't heard any, but a few years ago, I heard a guy's extended cab with 2 ten's downfiring, and, in my opinion, it sounded anemic, and needed some:help: ! owever, they were offbrand, and being ran on crap power.

I would like to run a pair of 12's, or optimally, 15's in the back in some configuration to save the stock seating, with about 600-1000 class D watts going to bass, and about 500 watts going to highs.!:ro)

my 2 cents, find people in your town that have crewcabs with different setups, and listen to them, and pick what YOU like, oh and forget about the 8's, unless youre planning on running like 6 of them:eek:

What would sound best would be your opinion. But for you just get the 10s in a sealed box. I don't think you would gain a lot from 2 8s ported plus it going to cost ya more. The 2 8s could get louder and lower in a good box, but it may take more than one try to get the box tuned to make it really perform. Go listen to some subs and pick some up you like. Run a search I have posted lots of good subs RE, SS, Alpine, and ect. The size of the sub has VERY LITTLE to do with how low a sub gets.

two tens and they will move your hair , some people here on the PLACE have witnesed them firest hand and were amazed at the sound, a good digital amp will make the difference, with a proper x-over setting , plus with down fireing box you will get the best transfer function gain , about 12db in cabin gain at about 60hz

I had two setups, both were behind the seat but in my 03 was 4 8's and my 05 was 3 10's. Honestly both sounded very good. Both setups were JL Audio subs. The 4 8's had roughly 900 watts to them, the 3 10's had appx 500-600 watts.

New 5500 4x4 is on the way, I'm puttin as much as I can in it. :P

a lot of my friends here a huge fans of ported boxes, I've only ever had sealed boxes so I don't have any comparison experiences.

For those with a crew cab with the sub thump box which subs best match up to the box. I already have a Memphis 16-1000D amp to push the subs which should be plenty of power no matter what set up I go with. What do yall think?

The size of the sub has VERY LITTLE to do with how low a sub gets.

soooooooooooooo are you sayin that, relatively, ALL size subs go as deep, and produce the same ocillating sound wave??:lol: I don't know what planet you are on, maybe the atmosphere there allows for higher frequencies to play lower, but I have been around custom car audio for over 20 years, and have NEVER heard 8's go as deep as 10's, 12's or 15's. You are completely ignoring the bigger cone's ability to push more air.

Before you say anything about how deep or loud any certain size can be, check specs at websites like kicker, fosgate, memphis and so on

Indeed, size has ALOT to do with deeper bass. yeah, 8's might be able to get loud, but when I use 8's for my mids, instead of woofers, I think I know what I am talking about

Now, if you are dealing with limited space, like in a freekin geo metro, or a "green" car, where space is at a premium, then yes, by all means, go with whatever you can get to fit your app.

I helped install 6.5" woofers behind the seats of a ferrari 308 about 10 yrs ago, and for the limited space, it sounded good. HOwever I think 8's or 10's would have been great, but there wasn't enough airspace.

a lot of my friends here a huge fans of ported boxes, I've only ever had sealed boxes so I don't have any comparison experiences.

For those with a crew cab with the sub thump box which subs best match up to the box. I already have a Memphis 16-1000D amp to push the subs which should be plenty of power no matter what set up I go with. What do yall think?

memphis is really clean power:ro) that should do you justice with your subs, and piss off your neighbors too:cool2: My preference, go with the 10's

The deal with ported boxes.........they are tuned with the port to a certain frequency, usually a really low frequency. they sound good at that frequency, but leave much to the imagination with the rest of the bass frequencies.

anyway to mount amps or speakers behind the seat in an extended cab truck?

is there any room behind that seat? if not, then maybe redrill some floorboard holes to move the seat forward to make room for the box?

is there enough room under the front seats for 2 woofers?

out of the following speakers what would yall suggest for my application.

2- L5 or L7 Kicker Solobarics
2- JL 10W3's
2- Infinity Perfect 10.1
2- Alipine Series 10's
2- Any Suggestions?

What would be better a DVC or SVC speaker?
If DVC should I wire them in series or parrallel?

I like the kickers, but that is my preference

you need to make sure that the speakers you will run will have enough airspace to do thier thing in the box you will be using. I would go with the subs that match your airspace the best, hell they are all good subs

look at the specs of each sub, and they will tell you optimum box volume you will need

as for running in parallel or series, check the specs of your amp, because if yo run in series, you will be bridging the amp to half the ohm load it runs in stereo, with increased power. which means that if your amp runs at 4 ohms stereo, and you bridge it down to 2 ohms, then you will need to run 2 ohm subs

Kicker for SPL Alpine for a little better SQ on a budget and my picks RE #1 (http://www.reaudio.com/html/), SS #2 (http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli_ignition_series_8_inch_and_10_inch_diy_subwoof er_drivers.html). Real subs have DVC more wiring options.

Kicker for SPL Alpine for a little better SQ on a budget and my picks RE #1 (http://www.reaudio.com/html/), SS #2 (http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli_ignition_series_8_inch_and_10_inch_diy_subwoof er_drivers.html). Real subs have DVC more wiring options.

the only problem with the SS is the mounting depth and that is the same for the RE the mounting depth is just too much.

Sorry, I plan on making a custom box. Treo (http://www.treoonline.com/ssi.html) will fit they are good subs cost more but cheaper than JL.

soooooooooooooo are you sayin that, relatively, ALL size subs go as deep, and produce the same ocillating sound wave??:lol: I don't know what planet you are on, maybe the atmosphere there allows for higher frequencies to play lower, but I have been around custom car audio for over 20 years, and have NEVER heard 8's go as deep as 10's, 12's or 15's. You are completely ignoring the bigger cone's ability to push more air.

Before you say anything about how deep or loud any certain size can be, check specs at websites like kicker, fosgate, memphis and so on

Indeed, size has ALOT to do with deeper bass. yeah, 8's might be able to get loud, but when I use 8's for my mids, instead of woofers, I think I know what I am talking about

Now, if you are dealing with limited space, like in a freekin geo metro, or a "green" car, where space is at a premium, then yes, by all means, go with whatever you can get to fit your app.

I helped install 6.5" woofers behind the seats of a ferrari 308 about 10 yrs ago, and for the limited space, it sounded good. HOwever I think 8's or 10's would have been great, but there wasn't enough airspace.

I just heard 4 RE 8's in the back of a the seat of a crew cab and let me tell you. I've been around car audio for a realy long time also and those 8's hit hard as ******. they had a 500 watt zapco runing them. After hearing that my mind was made upwhat im using. So I guess maybe this guy was wrong because those 8's hit all the low deep bass we thru at them with no problem. Oh i forgot to say the box was ported at 30 hrtz.

I just bought a set of MB Quart PWE 254's. They are dual voice coil 10's. I also got a 400wx2 MB Quart amp to run them. I've heard great things about the brand from true audiophiles and I can wait to hear em blast.

My Two L7 10s behind the back crew seat hit HARD with 1600 watts from an alphasonic. Non ported as well, they sound close to onld school 12s as far as lows go but hit 10 times harder.

the question is for you guys that have mounted the speakers behind the seat. do you think that you lose any bass through the seat? Do you think your setup would be louder if mounter under the seat vs behind the seat?

I had a 96 chevy with a 12 downfire under the back seat, it went low, but I couldnt feel it much. Also Ive noticed if the speaker is firing down mild distortion goes unnoticed. I had to get good 10s that held plenty of capacity so I could push them hard and not get distortion behind the back seat. The L7 10s go pretty low for any ten Ive ever heard and they are in a sealed box. I actually had more room behind the seats rather than under because of the folding seat option, there wasnt enough stuff to remove to gain space like the behind vents and flap brackets etc.

I had a 96 chevy with a 12 downfire under the back seat, it went low, but I couldnt feel it much. Also Ive noticed if the speaker is firing down mild distortion goes unnoticed. I had to get good 10s that held plenty of capacity so I could push them hard and not get distortion behind the back seat. The L7 10s go pretty low for any ten Ive ever heard and they are in a sealed box. I actually had more room behind the seats rather than under because of the folding seat option, there wasnt enough stuff to remove to gain space like the behind vents and flap brackets etc.
Any pics

I just heard 4 RE 8's in the back of a the seat of a crew cab and let me tell you. I've been around car audio for a realy long time also and those 8's hit hard as ******. they had a 500 watt zapco runing them. After hearing that my mind was made upwhat im using. So I guess maybe this guy was wrong because those 8's hit all the low deep bass we thru at them with no problem. Oh i forgot to say the box was ported at 30 hrtz.

I never said that 8's couldn't do the job. my argument is that speaker size/cone size does matter. imagine what 4 of the same 10's or 12's would sound like???:eek: :ro)

I never said that 8's couldn't do the job. my argument is that speaker size/cone size does matter. imagine what 4 of the same 10's or 12's would sound like???:eek: :ro)

So where are you going to put 4 10s or 12s in a CC without major work? :exactly: So you can only easily have 2 10s and 1 12. So lets do the math 1 12 has a ~31" of cone area, 2 10s have ~50" of cone area, and 4 8s have ~75" of cone area. So that means (assuming everything is the same) 4 8s would be 50% louder than 2 10s and more than twice as loud as 1 12.

So where are you going to put 4 10s or 12s in a CC without major work? :exactly: So you can only easily have 2 10s and 1 12. So lets do the math 1 12 has a ~31" of cone area, 2 10s have ~50" of cone area, and 4 8s have ~75" of cone area. So that means (assuming everything is the same) 4 8s would be 50% louder than 2 10s and more than twice as loud as 1 12.

:exactly: what I was thinking.

So where are you going to put 4 10s or 12s in a CC without major work? :exactly: So you can only easily have 2 10s and 1 12. So lets do the math 1 12 has a ~31" of cone area, 2 10s have ~50" of cone area, and 4 8s have ~75" of cone area. So that means (assuming everything is the same) 4 8s would be 50% louder than 2 10s and more than twice as loud as 1 12.

get rid of/ modify the back seats!

So where are you going to put 4 10s or 12s in a CC without major work? :exactly: So you can only easily have 2 10s and 1 12. So lets do the math 1 12 has a ~31" of cone area, 2 10s have ~50" of cone area, and 4 8s have ~75" of cone area. So that means (assuming everything is the same) 4 8s would be 50% louder than 2 10s and more than twice as loud as 1 12. It all depends on the box and the speaker's ability. If it will fit I would do a ported kicker L5 8 or 10 with about 400 watts rms on it, just make sure you have a subsonic filter and get the crossover tuned in well.

driver size has nothing to do with how loud it will play , efficiancy of the drivers will have the most deciding factor of that, 4, 85 db 8 inch will not play as loud as two 87 db 10 inch , because the tens are taking and turning the power into volume more efficiantly,same with a single 12 at 94db, that being said the single most important factor in subwoofer design is enclosure design and area it is in , home or car. In a vehicle we try to take advantage of the cabin and use it as a step filter or gain that will add about 12db to the subs resonant frequency (called transfer function) , thus not all drivers and and not all box designs will perform the best in all vehicles . In our trucks I have had various 10 inch drivers and a few box designs, The combo of the two under the rear seat 10,s with a good digital amp has proven to get the best results and still retain most of the stock functions

The best combo is not the MB Quart PWE 252/254 series of 10" subs and the subthump box. Even though the mounting depths were good, and the volumes were right, the magnet was too big to fit in the sloped base of the box. There is also no room to make the box a hair bigger on passenger side. That said, a set of Kicker 10" CVR's fit fine and sounded fantastic. I was just a little disappointed at not getting to hear the "good" speakers. I will though...when they go in my car. Just a reminder that even the best thought out plans sometimes go awry.

I have the Infinity Perfect 10.1, best sounding sub I've heard in quite sometime.
Edit: added 1/2 inch ring to subthump box for enough mounting depth.

get rid of/ modify the back seats!

Let me guess, you are one of those guy's who would show up at SPL comps with a makeshift plywood box with 4 15's in it, not secured, where the backseat used to be. -:t This is why I got out of competition. Why not take the time to reseach and properly design a system instead of just throwing drivers and power at it to overcome it's lack of engineering. A properly designed box for 2 good quality 8's with a moderate amount of power will sound better, go lower, and be as loud as 2 10's in a generic box with a ton of power. :exactly:

O.K. now I'm really confused. :confuzeld I am a total dumb a** when it comes to subs. I don't want to be laughed at, :idiot: but I don't want to lose my seat fold-down function in my CC, and the only way I can see to add subs is to make my own "plywood" box and install 2, 3, or 4 eight inch speakers. Tens are out of the question because of the obvious depth needed. No, I'm not unbolting the seats and moving them forward to gain depth either. I have a Cad Cam program, and can draw a box in the demensions I want and analize it to get it's volume, but beyond that forget it. I used to be a CNC programmer. If I had one of those $120,000.00 machines, I could make some sweet boxes. Wood cuts a lot easier than stainless!

Anyone here have pictures of behind-the-seat installations? Ultimately, I think four 8 inchers are what I will go with. Any suggestions on wiring such a setup? I know I need to tap with a PAC GM-24 (I think that's the #) for the RCA output leads. I have an "old school" Kenwood K-623 amp (again, I think that's the #) when bridged was like 770 amps total output. I hate to buy all new stuff, the amp was $435.00 back when I bought it. Seems weak by today's standards, but in the day ('90 or '91), it was a mid to high end amp. It's been so long, I forget how to figure this stuff out.

You will be happy with 4 8s.

Wiring Diagrams (http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-lsYpvJeJlL7/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?view=all) you need to know what ohms your amp will put out 770 Amps at.

Run a "crew cab" search at Fullsizechevy.com for a few pics, but I don't think there is much info on them.

If you want to keep the back seat without losing any space, dont want to put the sub's on the floor. Then do what I did. JL AUDIO StealthBox. I have a 02 CC. The JL Audio Stealthbox sits in the center console. IT's a single 10" 10w3v2. I was worried that I might not have enough thump. BOY was I wrong. You have to throw major power at it but the sub can handle it and it does go deep. Yea you lose the deep storage. But you keep your cab stock without sacraficing space and you gain the sub.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_stealthbox_make.php?make_id=47&model_id=739

I ended up with Kicker 10" CVR's in the subthump box and the MB Quart amp. The seat doesn't fold, but there isn't much reason to go past half volume anymore. I've fooled around with a couple cheap amps in friends' vehicles before, and I definitely got my money's worth out of the MB Quart. Sounds great using the PAC adaptor. The amp was also too big for the back wall, so its attached to the back of the seat instead.

I didnt want to move the back seats either so my usual pro audio shop built a box for behind the rear seats,,,, after removing part of the vents and the flapper things,,,, Im running 2- L7 10" subs, with sealed box and 1600 watts of alphasonic power. Aint no eights gonna do what these are doin. The depth was not a problem. Ill try to post pics.

pics are too big cant get them resized to post.

Yes Davedan... Please do post some pics. I would love to put 2 10s behind the seat.

Only pictures of 4 8s I could find was at this link... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32024

Can you shrink them in your "paint" program?

davedan - can you email me those pics? :cool2:

Let me guess, you are one of those guy's who would show up at SPL comps with a makeshift plywood box with 4 15's in it, not secured, where the backseat used to be. -:t This is why I got out of competition. Why not take the time to reseach and properly design a system instead of just throwing drivers and power at it to overcome it's lack of engineering. A properly designed box for 2 good quality 8's with a moderate amount of power will sound better, go lower, and be as loud as 2 10's in a generic box with a ton of power. :exactly:

I make a comment about modifying/ getting rid of the back seat, and youve gotta jump to conclusions and venture to believe that I would zip-tie an installation in a 50,000 dollar truck???? come on now

the rear seat could be moved forward some, but the fold down option would be lost, unless the front seats were set up for midgets

beleive me, i am a fan of clean installs, and would not do a great injustice to my vehicle, as you claim i would, or do.

I dont know what the problem is with everyone saying to go with 8's or 10's. I have 2-12's under the rear seat and no problems with clearance when the seats are folded down, I did have a custom box made that cost $250.00 and had to remove a few seat brackets under the seat but no problem because the box is now supporting the seat. I am running an 800 watt amp to power them with crossovers, I post some pics monday with more info. One thing is, I dont like were the amp is located, screwed to the back of the seat, not a good location if I do say so myself.

Aint no eights gonna do what these are doin. The depth was not a problem. Ill try to post pics.

Thats what you think, but you have no clue. I will give you that l7s are loud, but they have the cone area of a 12 and there SQ is far from the best. And I bet your amp isn't putting out no 1600W.

Bob post some pics and info on your set up.

Thats what you think, but you have no clue. I will give you that l7s are loud, but they have the cone area of a 12 and there SQ is far from the best. And I bet your amp isn't putting out no 1600W.
I agree that the 1600W of Alphasonic power may be a stretch, but to say that he has no clue may be a bit harsh. True, the L7's with massive quantites of power will be loud, and they may suffer some in the SQ department because of it, but who buys L7's and 1600W to listen to sound quality? :confuzeld I have installed systems with 8" subwoofers that were very respectable when it came to SQ, but they couldn't compare in volume. It's all subjective. Not all people can hear minute audio imperfections. Most don't care. But there are some that do. If you want it loud, build it loud. If you want it clear, build it clear. Just don't rag the other guy because he doesn't like your style. :chillpill:

If you want it loud, build it loud. If you want it clear, build it clear. Just don't rag the other guy because he doesn't like your style. :chillpill:

Bravo! I wanted loud and clear. I'm not an audiohile-nazi by any stretch. Unfortunately, my speaker/box combo didn't work out and I had to lean towards loud slightly. Still, it sounds great and can shake the mirrors out of adjustment. Different strokes for different folks.

Swamp
Your right, but I wasn't trying to rag on him for his set up. I have had L5s my self and have considered L7s for my next set up. I was how ever because there are set ups with 8s that will blow his away in SQL.

get rid of/ modify the back seats!

Hey, I was going by what you said. And by alot of the advise given on this subject in this thread. Don't get me wrong here, I'm not wanting a pCensored ing war here but some of the advise scares me as a person who was involved heavily in IASCA competition. And, just to be clear, it was the "get rid of" part that got me, because I have done and do have a modded back seat to fit the 3 10w6's behind it. It isn't modded much though, just moved fwd about 1". Anyway, to make a long story short, I hate to see a person get advise that may lead him to be ultimately unhappy with his results. I appologise for being a bit harsh though Richard. I admit, I must not have had my coffee yet or something.

My camera broke, My wifes fault, I will try to post pics later today or tommorro morning. Bear with me

Hey, I was going by what you said. And by alot of the advise given on this subject in this thread. Don't get me wrong here, I'm not wanting a pCensored ing war here but some of the advise scares me as a person who was involved heavily in IASCA competition. And, just to be clear, it was the "get rid of" part that got me, because I have done and do have a modded back seat to fit the 3 10w6's behind it. It isn't modded much though, just moved fwd about 1". Anyway, to make a long story short, I hate to see a person get advise that may lead him to be ultimately unhappy with his results. I appologise for being a bit harsh though Richard. I admit, I must not have had my coffee yet or something.

it's alright fire, i just don't want you to think i'm some tweeker doin shotty installs, like having the ablity to run the radio with the keys out of the truck:eek:

in my spare time, i take the vcr apart):h

in my spare time, i take the vcr apart):h

Hey me too, but I can't get it back together and the tape is still suck in there.:rolleyes:

Hey me too, but I can't get it back together and the tape is still suck in there.:rolleyes:

LOL! Better hope it ain't the wife's tape! :lol:

Here you go dozerboy
2-12in Audiobahn subs w/ 1in air gap (down facing)
Audiobahn 800 watt amp driving sub's
4-6x9's Audiobahn in all doors
Alpine deck (CDA-9853) 200 watt per channel
It works for me, what do you think?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2200306/1

Here you go dozerboy
2-12in Audiobahn subs w/ 1in air gap (down facing)
Audiobahn 800 watt amp driving sub's
4-6x9's Audiobahn in all doors
Alpine deck (CDA-9853) 200 watt per channel
It works for me, what do you think?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2200306/1


DID THE 6x9's just bolt up? or did you have to mod them???

The kid from down the road did the install for me and I do not know for sure if he had to cut or not, But, I don't think he did.

Bob thanks,any ides what model your subs are?

IMO you would be better off with 61/2s,63/4s then the 6x9s. And I would think he would have to mod the doors to get them to fit, but I haven't seen a CC with the door panels off in person.

Dozerboy,
Give me a day or two and I'll let you know, info is in the files.
I will say this, The system does "ROCK":ro)

Here you go dozerboy
2-12in Audiobahn subs w/ 1in air gap (down facing)
Audiobahn 800 watt amp driving sub's
4-6x9's Audiobahn in all doors
Alpine deck (CDA-9853) 200 watt per channel
It works for me, what do you think?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2200306/1

Don't have any first hand experience with their stuff, but many on the audio boards claim it's over rated. If your using the HU to power those mains you are'nt getting 200W to them.....more like 20.

I have the Infinity Perfect 10.1, best sounding sub I've heard in quite sometime.
Edit: added 1/2 inch ring to subthump box for enough mounting depth.

Why did you need the 1/2 spacer? Infinity says these have a mount depth of 6". Box has 6 1/8" depth. I have this box and am trying to decide between the infinitys, jl audio 10w3v2, kicker comp vr. From mfg's specs all should bolt right up.

From mfg's specs all should bolt right up.

You would think, but when I went to put my MBQ subs in the box, the base of the speaker was too wide for the beveled shape of the recess. So even though mounting depth was good, it wasn't. There really isn't any room to make the box bigger or raise it up either. It is in there tight and is as big as it can be.