My wipers quit. It could be a problem from the alarm installer. They came unplugged once before up on the steering column.


But I checked the fuse and it has no power to it at all on either side of the fuse. Does anyone know if the power goes up to the wiper switch first and then back down to the fuse? So if it came undone again I Wouldn't have any power there? Or does the power go to the fuse first and I should have power there.


Also the 40 amp fuse popped under the hood marked ign B. It happens if I move the tilt wheel all the way up so I'm assuming a wire is getting pinched some where on the column. I guess I'll be taking it apart tomm night http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif


Also for a FYI if you pull the 40 amp fuse ign B your truck wont crank over and they can't steal it. A good antitheft device.


Thx for any help Diesel Dragon

Your ign. B fuse is probably where your power for your wiper comes from so the reason you have no power at either side of the fuse is because your ign B fuse is blown.

I replaced the 40 Amp fuse under the hood and the truck is running now but my wipers are still not working with no power at the "wiper" fuse.


I was just wondering if it acidentally got disconnected on the steering column would that disconnect the power to the "wiper" fuse also?


I hate electric problems

Is your wiper fluid pump working?

No it's not working either thats why I think the stalk got disconnected again it's just weird that theres no power at the fuse either.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

sounds like a shorted multi function switch hav seen in a few cases that the harness down the column rubbbs through at the metel plate behind the knee bolster trim.

The DC voltage should defintely go through the fuse before it hits the wiper itself. If you replaced the ign B fuse and everything else is working, I would agree with patrick that the problem is in the column and probably a wire that's been nicked or rubbed through. Good luck and keep us informed.


Fish

Your ignition will have to be on to see power at that fuse.

Here are the Wiper schematics if your interested.


626_Wipers.zip (http://dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/626_Wipers.zip)

Ok I found out what was shorting out.


It was the heavy 12 guage BROWN wire that comes back down from the ignition switch. Seems it got sliced on a heavy metal piece of the steering column. Every time I moved the tilt wheel up and down it would rub and it finally cut through. I taped up the wire and its not shorting anymore.I think the alarm guy helped it along when he was tapping into red and red w/white striped wire for the remote start. So I'm not sure if GM will warranty this now cuz im sure they will say the alram guy caused the problem.


But my problem is that I still dont have wipers cuz I think the ignition switch got burnt up by too many shorts. Power goes up to the switch and comes back down when key is on on all the wires EXCEPT the brown one.


So I think something is not right in the switch.


The brown wire goes down to the fuse box I will try tomm to cut the brown wire and run direct 12 volts to it and see if the wipers will work. the brown wire powers the WS WPR Fuse 25A, SEO ACCY fuse 10A, the TBC ACCY fuse 10A, and the RR WPR Fuse 15A. I'll see what happens tomm.


Does any one know what GM charges for parts and labor to change the Ignition Switch?


Ok thats it for now. wish me luck tomm


Diesel Dragon

Check to see if you have power on both the large red wire and red/white. I really, really doubt the igntion switch is burnt out. I bet you have a burnt fuse under the hood.

Check your IGN B 40 amp fuse under the hood. That is your problem.

I read through your post again. Your right, sounds like the ignition switch is the problem. There should be power on the large brown wire when the key is on.


Under the circumstances you should be taking your truck back to the alarm installer first. Explain the problem and your diagnosis. He might choose to order the ignitions switch and change it himself. IF that is the case, suggest he buys the switch and you replace it. Sounds like he should be touching your truck. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif

The fuse is good Max. thats the one that kept popping every time the brown wire shorted out. I got so tired of replacing fuses that I made up a 40A circuit breaker and plugged that in. But this last time I think it took a little too long to pop and the next weakest link burnt. Which I think is the switch. But I'm not sure. My truck is running now which it wouldnt do without the 40A underhood fuse.

We posted that last one at the same time Max. The problem is the installer is a friend of mine who did it on the side so I dont think hes going to cough up the money. But I wouldnt mind buying a switch put the procedure to change it is pretty involved. Disconnect the airbag, remove the steering wheel, Then you need a special tool for the lock cylinder and another special tool for another part. So I think the labor is a little too involved for me and it will be expensive at the dealer. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif

You can skip a few steps IIRC. I don't have to pull of the steering wheel or airbags. You also don't need a special tool the way I do it. It is a little bit hard to do if you have never seen it done before because you have to do it blind.


There is another way you could do this. With a relay you could power up that wire.


Terminal 85 to large orange wire from ignition switch.


86 to ground


30 to red/white stripe


87 to brown wire.


You could use this as a permanant fix if you wish. There won't be any adverse affects. Edited by: Max Power

Ok all is good with the world again.


I looked up the ignition switch on gmpartsdirect $80.00. I stopped at the chevy dealer yesterday morning, he says switch is $130. I ask him to check part # cuz partsdirect only had a listing up to 2002 MY. He tells me # is wrong for 2003. He says he has the right # in stockhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif He also says the part is $30http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif So I get the part head home and see that the part is held in place by 2 spring loaded latches. Use a couple of small screwdrivers to pop out the old one, I line up the gear teeth on the new one like the old one and pop the new one in. All in about 5 minutes.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif No need to remove the wheel or airbag or even the lock cylinderhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


I hook up my wires again and everything works including my wipers<IMG onMouseOver="this.style.cursor='hand'" onMouseOut="this.style.cursor=''" alt='Click on image to open in new window' onClick="window.open('smileys/Clap.gif', 'Image', 'toolbar=0,location=0,status=0,menubar=