Well my trans is soon to be on the way and I can finally turn up my bastard stack):h . My question is that my 305 nittos rub pretty bad right now as it is. I can crank my green keys up more, but the cv and tie rod angles are pretty:eek: :badidea: , espically for racing. If I slam my t-bars for racing, I can barely even turn on to the track.

I had a 6" procomp on my old HD so I had an Idea. What If I installed a 6" full drop lift like procomp and then lowered the t-bars all the way down. I could leave out the add-a-leaf in the back to help keep it level. I was thinking that this way The front end would always be at race stance, I could still turn into a parking space, and it would still look good. Any ideas on why this would or would not work. Ive seen many people on here race with a lift so im assuming the driveshaft angles would not be an issue.

Also, doesn't the procomp steering assembly that bolts on to the center link also bolt on to the diff. cross member thus gitting rid of any centerlink twisting?

Thanks for the input,

Brennan

I do the same thing. I run smaller tires in the summer, with the front end turned down for racing, then I turn it back up to run 35's in the winter. I use air bags to level the rear. You are correct about the Pro-Comp centerlink/brace (as long as it is a full drop lift, not a spindle lift)

High cv angles and a boosted launch can be entertaining for spectators.:eek:
They can also be a pita if a cv joint explodes and you are 150 miles from home. Trust me. Luckily Max Payne was there to lend a hand.

C.V.'s are cheap and easy to replace. I would carry an extra one if you are going to hammer your rig like that.

While easy, they are far from cheap. JMHO...C.V.'s are cheap and easy to replace. I would carry an extra one if you are going to hammer your rig like that.

You can buy replacements from auto-zone for 90 bucks.Lifetime warranty.

You can buy replacements from auto-zone for 90 bucks.Lifetime warranty.
Yes, this is true. If you like to do 15 psi launches with a 7000 pound truck and propel it to 110 MPH or more on a 90 dollar front axle, go for it... Pictured is a Carquest 100 dollar axle (saved from a customer who learned an important lesson about buying cheap parts. He got to hike 10 miles when this happened. Lifetime warranty doesn't pay for hiking boots)

I agree with Max Payne...All the money we got into these trucks, why get the el cheapo CV's?

Although for a toolbox spare that you might never use, a cheapo is probably a good option. I just wouldn't leave it installed in the truck.

The cheapo in the tool-box is good insurance.

Max I was not aware of different quality in this part. Who makes the strongest? OEM?

I have learned w/ my last truck that the c.v. is like a Fuse, you want it to break! It gets really expensive when you crack the diff case, etc.. etc..

Yes you are correct that it is like a fuse. Unfortunately, when it breaks at high speed, it can wing-around and take apart ball-joints, break tie-rods, and crack the diff case. In the case of the one pictured, the front hub bearing assy could have come apart had he not stopped immediately. I really cannot say with certainty that the oem is the strongest, but I can say with certainty that the Carquest axle pictured is junk. I wasn't trying to bust your balls or anything either, just wanted to share some of the personal experience I have had with them. Nevertheless, one in the toolbox could save a lot of hiking, or a tow-bill.

No offense taken Max, I am here to learn. Great info.

Another thing to consider: If you do explode a CV or break a shaft, most parts stores will make you pay the core on the 90 dollar axle too, which could be as much as $250.

Another thing to consider: If you do explode a CV or break a shaft, most parts stores will make you pay the core on the 90 dollar axle too, which could be as much as $250.

Got that right...Actually, if you guys are thinking of getting a spare shaft to keep in the tool box, I would recommend getting a new one (no core involved that way) It will cost you a bit more up front, but if you explode one, you aren't out the core price..And, as Ben mentioned, the core is often times more $ than the actual part itself is.
For example, at this store..
The Axle is 109.00 w/exchange
The core charge is 155.00 :eek: