So I would like to install one on my truck, to help with cold starts. Does anyone have any detail info they can share? (pics would be awesome!) Like wire color/location? Thanks guys!

You can buy a kit from Peninsular engine. They have one in which you can set the glow time. You have to do some wiring, but it is an easy install. Otherwise you could install a selanoid and a momentary toggle switch.

Make sure you have extended time glows, or you will burn them up, also use a momentary switch from any electronics or most automotive stores, spring loaded momentary on switch keeps you from forgetting to switch them off. look at Kennedy's site IIRC he has a plug & play set up worth checking out.

push button switch and an aux headlight or fog light relay will work. easy to do. with push button there is no chance of leaving it on tooooo looong

You can purchase a complete over ride kit from SSDieselsupply.com. Here is the link:

http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/product_9_GM_6.5_TD_Glow_Plug_OverRide_Kit.html

You can purchase a complete over ride kit from SSDieselsupply.com. Here is the link:

http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/product_9_GM_6.5_TD_Glow_Plug_OverRide_Kit.html


I bought on of the SS Diesels and the hardest part was fishing the wire into were I wanted to hook the thing up at. It would be pretty easy to make on with a 100 amp Solenoid and a couple of battery cables and push button. I liked the put toogether kit the only fault I think with the SS kit I had the black wire that went from Solenoid to pushbutton could have been 6 inches longer to make things bit easier for me. :confused:

how many amps does the relay draw? was thinking about putting a relay that i have extra from remote start install and putting momentary switch/push button to trigger it.

how many amps does the relay draw? was thinking about putting a relay that i have extra from remote start install and putting momentary switch/push button to trigger it.

It would be pretty easy to make on with a 100 amp Solenoid

I think a Ford is the one that most folks use.

Draw of the relay's solenoid coil should be minimal maybe 1/4 amp for that coil, (NVMtLion you the tron tech what-cha think) ;what you need to size for is the load side of the relay powering the glowplugs themselves, I don't recall rating off hand, but a relay rated a little more than the rating of the fuse in the normal glow circuit should be sufficient

i just put mine in and have it work with the trucks relay so it still comes on when you turn the key and when it is little too cold then you can push the button -- i ment to clamp the wires and see how many amps they pull but i will do that tonight if i get a chance

Okay,
I popped open the manual, and the skee-matic, shows hot wire from ignition to relay protected by a 20 amp fuse, so unless i'm reading wrong, 25A relay should carry the load for control side of coil, and from output glow relay load terminal is split with a 2A fusible link for left bank of glows and another 2A fuse link for right side glows, will try to better confirm what i'm looking at is correct, I do jets, this is trons so I gotta double check my thoughts when it comes to trons.

Okay I think I got the scoop on this thing, manual schematic isn't showing current rating of the glows, current draw for full glows on output of relay is about 55A, control side is less than 20A.

I thought solution would be to put a manual button on the PCM side of the relay and make them stay on longer, problem there is PCM would still see them on when calling for glow off so you will most probably code, see description of fault logic in BR6.5's post what next http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50980

Couple of ways to get around this a second independent relay sized as recommended earlier in the thread, or pre-glow with a momentary on auxillary feed to on engine relay control coil before turning ignition on so you don't code, power side of relay that feeds the glows is always hot, and PCM is just powering control coil/contacts during start to energize glows until PCM is satisfied all is warm & toasty.

As in last post trons ain't my thing so someone please sanity check my assumptions.

does anyone know if you can use the PCM trigger for the glows pre relay? Using the glow relay as it is, just triggering it manually? where to find the trigger? and what type of feed is it looking for? I will do some probein' this weekend and see what i can find out but lookin for you experts out there. anyone have a diagram/schematic for the relay showing what wire is which? or know where i can find one. Thanks again everyone!

I looked at schematic it looks like terminal B is glow control from PCM, which would be the one to connect momentary 12v switch on for pre start extended glow, (confirm with volt meter it's late, I'm thumbing thru books) with ignition on you should see 12v on/off as PCM cycles on command to relay & power glows (verify you have glows that will tolerate extended glow time and fuse the momentary switch as well)

Again Kennedy has plug & play kit for those wanting to do cleanest install.

how do you know if the glows will tolerate extended glow cycles? And how long is considered extended?

Dude making me hit all the books(which is good forces me to learn sumthin new) in my hurricane mess where I can't find nuthin, I think what you are after is 11G's, or higher as a 98 I think you should have those, (pull one look at the body should be a number stamped there, I think I posted a pic of a glow in FAQ pics)

I'm not sure how long those can stay hot; there was a thread here or on the Page where they energized them to see how long the could glow without burn out, 11gs IIRC burnt out in 5 minutes, 60gs in 15, and Kennedy quick heats indefinate. Now you would not glow that long, probably 20 sec max should be sufficient, but each glow you put on them shortens life of them, summary conclusion of that test; was longer they glowed without burn out at full energize longer they should last.

I'll stroll around to see if I can find actual text somewhere of the test result. I have Kennedy quick heats in mine, the ones I removed from my 98 were 11gs, still functional, but replaced them as a preventative measure as I did not want to deal with a swollen glow extraction somewhere later.

Borrowed this little snippet from the Page

"In the beginning was the #9. Apparently they couldn't survive a cycle longer thn 8-10 seconds. The failure mode was swelling uup and becoming near impossible to remove. Doesn't explain how I got 140K miles on a set, but...

Then came the #11's. Didn't burn out and swell up, but simply quit working.

These were folloewd by the 60's. Didn't burn out or fail, just wouldn't get hot enough in a normal cycle to light the engine cleanly."

Mine pulls 3.5 amps. I used a NAPA push botton starter switch. Has seen duty since 1990 without problems. The glo-plug relay measured 45 ohms across the energizing coil. That figures out to 3.125 amps @ 14.4 volts or 3.688 amps @ 12.2 volts. It's still well under the rated load for an aftermarket push button switch. Most switches will carry 15 amps with ease.

Thanks Fred, knew the answer was here somewhere.

You're welcome! Thanks for all the help you provide. I enjoy reading your posts.

You should be able to hook direct to the relay without a code. Push button > plugs lite off AND then hit the key. Computer won't know they where on, right?

Dual coil plugs can remain on, single coil will burn up.

Personally I would get a new set of Delphi plugs, or plugs from one of the vendors here.

WOW i finally put my amp clamp on the glow plug wires - i clamped the wire that feeds all the glow plugs didnt just check one all 8 of them and well it was 65 amps and slowly cam down to about 61 amps

i was very shocked it was that high so i checked again and again and got the same results

i also met to say that all the plugs are new 3 weeks ago with the fast glow from SS