Ok well I'm gonna do one this week. It's been about 3000 miles since I got it(was done by previous owner). Now I see Rotella seems to be the choice...any specific weight for Chicago winter use I should get? And what brand filter should I go with? How much oil is needed and where's the cheapest place to find this stuff? I have no Sams card so can't go there.

I personally run 15W40 ROTELLA, I get it at wal-mart. It takes about 7-8 quarts to fill it up, and I normally run the STP filters from autozone. I'm not sure if you'll need 10W30 oil or not for the winter up there though, I always run 15W40.

15-40 is fine unless you want to go with the Rotella synthetic which is 5w-40 and can also be bought from wal-mart for about $13.00 and change per gallon. It's a matter of preference. I have good and bad about synthetic. Most I've heard good from have several miles on their engine.
Mark

5-40 Mobil 1 or Rotella 5-40 synthetic.

You can't go wrong with any of the top brand diesel oils. Rotella T, Valvoline Blue, Castrol, Quaker State, etc. are all excellent. I don't think you could judge one as better than the other, although a lot of old school diesel junkies swear by Rotella, probably because its been around the longest, and a lot of interstate truckers use it. Just make sure you go with the correct diesel oil weight, which is 15W-40, or 5W-40 for synthetic.

As for filters, again, use a good name brand and don't cheap out with it. I've heard the basic Fram filters suck now (used to be good), but their higher end ones (pro-guard or whatever its called) are decent. I use Bosch - seems to be a high quality filter, and priced in the mid to high range (cheaper than Mobil 1 filters and Ultra AC's, but more than Fram and STP). Can't go wrong with AC Delco filters either. The Ultra AC Delcos are probably the best, but are expensive and hard to find. Mobil 1 filters are also excellent, but are probably overkill, especially if you change the oil every 3k to 5k miles.

IMO, changing the oil and filter religiously every 3k to 5k is more important than what brand of oil and oil filter you use.

I just picked up a couple of FRAM HP4 filters at the local Shucks Auto Supply. They were $10/each. The specs on them look good.

The specs:

Oil Filter Style:CanisterHeight (in):5.750Outside Diameter (in):3.71875Filter Bypass Relief Valve:YesRelief Valve Open (psi):22 psiAnti Drain Back Valve:YesSmallest Particle Filtered:15 micronsMaximum Burst Pressure (psi):325 psiThread Size:13/16-16 in.Gasket Outside Diameter (in):3.46875Gasket Inside Diameter (in):3.0625Gasket Thickness (in):0.34375Quantity:Sold individually.

Trap particles as small as 15 microns.
Oil Filter High Perf. 10 GPM, 200 PSI, GM 6.5 Diesel, 13/16"-16 Thread
Fram's HP Series filters are for performance and racing use. The spin-on filters can trap particles as small as 15 microns, smaller than the 20-40 micron-sized particles that cause most engine wear. All filters have an anti-drainback valve. Maximum flow rate is 10 gpm, and maximum operating pressure is 200 psi.

The theory, as I understand it, on these HP filters are that they are designed to have significantly larger filter areas, in order to provide adequate filtration at high volume with minimum restriction for racing use. Since low restriction and high filter efficiency tend to work against each other, FRAM advertises this as a filter that is engineered to have extremely high flow, but to still filter well by virtue of increased amount of filter media.

Before this, I was using the Delco filters, which cost about $5-6/each.

Sincerely,

Rob :)

I have been using Napa Gold oil filters and I have been satisfied with their performance. I really want to do new oil cooler lines and remote the oil filter with bypass filtration.

I have run Rotella 5W-40 synthetic with 1/2 bottle STP red since the second oil change I did on the truck. Oil analysis always comes back good. Caterpillar does them here in Reno for $12.

The only thing I notice is with the K&N my silicates went up just a little.

Cool, thanks guys.

Now why the different viscosity from synthetic to standard?

And what does an oil analysis tell ya? And I can go to any CAT dealer to have this done? How longs it take?

Oh, do ya run any additives like Lucas? I've heard bad about them but we use it in the semi's at work and the mechanic seems to like it alot. Says he noticed a difference when using it.

Technically the lighter cold weight of the synthetic is better in cold climates for easier starting. I believe the synthetic has the flexibility to go down to a 5W cold weight, whereas the dino can only go down to 15W cold weight, while still maintaining the required 40 warm operating weight. Or, it could just be the manufacturers only make a 5W-40 synthetic. ;)

An oil analysis can tell you a lot about what is getting into the oil over time. Things like high iron content, high brass or copper content, etc. can tell if you are having ring or bearing failure for example. High silicate content can indicate an air filtration issue. They can also measure the amount of soot, carbon compounds, and for various chemicals/additives, which can tell if your engine is running too much unburned fuel, running too hot/cold, etc. And it will tell you the overall condition of the oil including how much particulate matter is in it (indicator of air filter and oil filter performance, as well as age of the oil), and its viscocity properties (oil tends to lose its viscocity properties as it breaks down over time).

So, an oil analysis can tell you a lot. It's kind of like getting blood work done for your engine.

As for the additives, I'm not a big believer in them. GM doesn't recommend you use any, and I would stick with what they recommend. If you change your oil every 3k to 5k, and maintain the rest of the engine, it's highly unlikely you will ever suffer engine failure due to an oil problem, or actually wear your cylinders or rings down to a point where you're losing compression and need a rebuild. Your engine will easily last 300k+ with minimal internal wear, and chances are your engine will fail from some other common 6.5 failure such as cracked block, cracked heads, broken crank, oil loss due to cooler line failure, etc., before it actually is worn out due to oil issues. So, based on that, oil additives are a waste of money, IMO.

Regal,

I checked with the local CAT dealer, they charge $8 for analysis and I get the results in 2 to 3 days. Do an analysis before you change the oil and then one in like 1500 miles to see how things are doing. Turbine Doc and others can suggest an interval for dino oil. I check mine at 4500 miles to see if I am gonna do the change at 5000 or stretch it out.

Technically the lighter cold weight of the synthetic is better in cold climates for easier starting. I believe the synthetic has the flexibility to go down to a 5W cold weight, whereas the dino can only go down to 15W cold weight, while still maintaining the required 40 warm operating weight. Or, it could just be the manufacturers only make a 5W-40 synthetic. ;)

An oil analysis can tell you a lot about what is getting into the oil over time. Things like high iron content, high brass or copper content, etc. can tell if you are having ring or bearing failure for example. High silicate content can indicate an air filtration issue. They can also measure the amount of soot, carbon compounds, and for various chemicals/additives, which can tell if your engine is running too much unburned fuel, running too hot/cold, etc. And it will tell you the overall condition of the oil including how much particulate matter is in it (indicator of air filter and oil filter performance, as well as age of the oil), and its viscocity properties (oil tends to lose its viscocity properties as it breaks down over time).

So, an oil analysis can tell you a lot. It's kind of like getting blood work done for your engine.

As for the additives, I'm not a big believer in them. GM doesn't recommend you use any, and I would stick with what they recommend. If you change your oil every 3k to 5k, and maintain the rest of the engine, it's highly unlikely you will ever suffer engine failure due to an oil problem, or actually wear your cylinders or rings down to a point where you're losing compression and need a rebuild. Your engine will easily last 300k+ with minimal internal wear, and chances are your engine will fail from some other common 6.5 failure such as cracked block, cracked heads, broken crank, oil loss due to cooler line failure, etc., before it actually is worn out due to oil issues. So, based on that, oil additives are a waste of money, IMO.

Excellent post, Stingray!

Rob :)

Great info Stingray.... I'm gonna have an analysis done and see what it says just to know....I'll share the info with ya'll so anything can be diagnosed.

Oh, do ya run any additives like Lucas? I've heard bad about them but we use it in the semi's at work and the mechanic seems to like it alot. Says he noticed a difference when using it.
If you run additives, I would stick with Stanadyne products. They have been proven and GM will stand by them. I swear by them and use it every fill up especially since they took all of the sulfer out of the diesel fuel.
Mark

If you run additives, I would stick with Stanadyne products. They have been proven and GM will stand by them. I swear by them and use it every fill up especially since they took all of the sulfer out of the diesel fuel.
MarkWhat products are those...I've never heard of them. I know servicemaster fuel additives and lucas

What products are those...I've never heard of them. I know servicemaster fuel additives and lucas
Go to the Stanadyne web site and they will show all the different additives they have. I am not sure of the actual site right now, but believe it is www.stanadyne.com (http://www.stanadyne.com), you may want to do a search on the web to find it and they will give you local distributors that have their products.
I was fortunate enough to find one that has the products and is an authorized stanadyne/bosch reman shop.
This is where I bought my new injectors and had my old ones pop tested.
Mark

If you run additives, I would stick with Stanadyne products. They have been proven and GM will stand by them. I swear by them and use it every fill up especially since they took all of the sulfer out of the diesel fuel.
Mark

Just to clarify, the original question about additives such as Lucas was referring to oil additives, not fuel additives. Fuel additives are recommended, especially the Stanadyne ones, and I've heard a lot of truckers use an additive by Howe's. It's the oil additives I think are a waste of money, however fuel additives are good.

Just to clarify, the original question about additives such as Lucas was referring to oil additives, not fuel additives. Fuel additives are recommended, especially the Stanadyne ones, and I've heard a lot of truckers use an additive by Howe's. It's the oil additives I think are a waste of money, however fuel additives are good.
Good point, I missed the "oil" additive part. I have used the Howes before in a pinch but still see a difference with the Stanadyne. I do agree with the oil additives being a waste of money. Change your oil when needed with good quality oil and use a good filter and you will be fine.
Mark

Regal,

I checked with the local CAT dealer, they charge $8 for analysis and I get the results in 2 to 3 days. Do an analysis before you change the oil and then one in like 1500 miles to see how things are doing. Turbine Doc and others can suggest an interval for dino oil. I check mine at 4500 miles to see if I am gonna do the change at 5000 or stretch it out.


I've now run 4 samples on mine varying interval to find out what works for me to find the correct balance of economics/extended interval risk

3500 mi, 6000 mi, 7500 mi, and 12000 mi

Running a Amzoil bypass kit fitted with Baldwin filters, Rotella 15-40W dino oil only (topped off when 1qt low with fresh Rotella, modern quality oils don't need additive, save $$$ for something else IMO), and a Amzoil hi-flow round air filter all tests back said oil was safe for continued operation, no out of limit conditions or elevated trends to be wary of.

I've chosen 8,000 mile to be my interval based on lab feed back, but sometimes we get busy when we think about changing oil, with the 12K mile result "I've got a I'll get around to it cushion".

These results are for MY truck, MY driving location & MY driving style,, ONLY way for YOU to to positively identify what YOUR interval should be is to start a testing program.

Driving conditions on my oil, was everything winter & summer Texas to Va. could throw at it , some HD tow, some LD tow, mostly hiway, some off road mud, sand, and dirt road driving.