Hello

So finnaly after busy summer both at work and in the garage working on race cars I had the time to push the truck into the garage and start working on it. ( I kinde of need it soon since my current daily driver and snow dont mix and it snow 2 days ago)-:t

Truck was missfiring on cyl #7, tons of white smoke, hard starts , and not holding commpresion in #7 rest was fine close to 400.

Fisrt i took the intake manifold out since I expected that the head will come off and then valve cover, I was amaze to find tonse of sluge in the head - camera is in for repairs so no pictures. Then I discovered that the Intake (2nd from the fire wall) pusch rod came loos from the rocker arm. Censored

I learnd my stuff around OHC and DOHC engines ( my current race car has 5 valves per cylinder DOHC) I never dig in to the push rod engine and never worked on a diesel nither.

Now the dumb questions, what to do next ? Did this happens often ? What couses the push rod to jump out ?

:help:

Check this thread out.
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50212

My assessment in this case would be that you built up an excess of this same sludge (EGR, + CDR oil vapors+ valve guide dripping) on the valve stem to a point that it began to stick allowing the pusrod to drop out of the cup. That or a collapsed lifter. If you reassemble and the pushrod is slacked, then I'd look to the valve or lifter.


Cleaning the sludge is a tough one as the diesel is a "dry flow" engine so detergent in fuel does nothing outside of the fuel system and cylinder.

Amsoil Power Foam clearly states on can NOT FOR DIESEL USE but I suspect this is for the risk of hydro-locking. You'd have to check further, but I would guess that if you took out the injectors (not just the glow plugs) and shot this in the intake ports it may be OK. Proceed at your own risk.

I also like Marvel's Mystery oil in the crankcase to help clean up crap...


Ditching the EGR would also be top priority.

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/airboxmods.html

My bad I didn't even notice it was a 1500(s engine), I guess having an F engine that's the only one that comes to mind when I think of the 6.5. They do get pretty nasty in the intakes of the S engines though. Don't use carb cleaner or brake cleaner to try and clean them though, seen a guy try this once. Got it all back together and had a heck of a runaway when it fired up. Try and find a cleaner that is non flamable for that reason.

Just for my .02 I would hand clean change oil, reassemble and if all looks ok starts and runs I would put in one quart of ATF for not more than 100 miles, drain and change oil again and use a good detergent oil. Just an opinion.

I did want to add that I personally have used Power Foam in 6.5 diesels sprayed into the turbo while running. It will not radically explode or anything, but if you spray too much it can start to buck and knock.

I don't recall it ever saying anything about not using on diesels until recently, but I may have missed this.

I'm going to check that plastic thing on the rocker and roll the rod, see if i can assambled it and check for tightness.

Will go to part store to see if ther are any no flamable cleaners and maybe try the ATF trick.

So what is "good detergent oil" in your opinion ?

Whene I firt got the truck this is how the rubber booth to turbo look like

And what you mean by loosing the EGR ?

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7103&d=1122953909

So what is "good detergent oil" in your opinion ?

Synthetics:exactly:

Adding Lucas Enigne detergents inbetween oil changes REALLY helps clean an engine and remove intenal deposits. I love the stuff and it really helps and engine in the long run. MY .02 cents:)

And I thought I was the only LUCAS junky on this forum. I really like there products, there upper cylinder lubricant really helped my milage alot.

And I thought I was the only LUCAS junky on this forum. I really like there products, there upper cylinder lubricant really helped my milage alot.

My uncle use to work for Lucas and he use to get me all the products for $0.00 :rolleyes: (all the open test products).

I used it all and have know the products all work awesomly and prove their investment time after time. Hell, if they make a Lucas energy drink to help improve human performance,;), I would buy it by the case
:lol: .

I got the rod out and it dosent look to good. first of all it was kinde of jamed ??????????? it wobbels a bit whene rolled and it has a lot of wear, it starts about 1/4 inch above the ball and it gose up for another 1/2 inch, the shaft is definitly thinner on that 1/2 inch lenght.

I wish the my camera was here. Will try to get someone with camera down here so I can post the picture.

If indeed carbon was the culprit in the intake track, Chrysler makes a product called combustion chamber cleaner. I don't think it is flamable like carb cleaner, but I never tried it in a diesel. I know it would do wonders for cleaning up a gas engine though. How did the plastic pieces for the pushrods look?

Bending a pushrod is not always a sign of an internal malfunction. Fatigue of the material is alwasys an option to look at but like said earlier, inspect components, look for shinny areas where other wear might have occured and such. Pull the lifter out too and look at the lifter cup where the pushrod sits. See how worn that looks and check for debris.

I have seen bigblocks that were beaten hard bend a couple pushrods at a time. But again review the vavle train and look at the valve and valve spring itself. You may even want to get a valve kit to used compressed air to hold the valve shut, remove the keeper and valve spring and then remove the pressure to let the valve go down into the cylinder but make SURE THAT THE PISTON IS UP! This way, you can check to see if the valve moves freely. If the valve is galled and is stuck, that will cause the pushrod to get bent and warn.

PrezeS, IMPO Delo 400 has been as good a detergent oil as I have seen. Rebuilt a few gassers of mine after using and things really stay clean. I run Delo in my 6.2 and 6.5. Synthetics are good but expensive. If you are going to change the oil often for a couple of times it gets high priced.

pictures , this is the bottom end of the rod

and that plastic reteiner look good and hold the rocker in place nice and tight

I think I have to remove the head to look at the lifter, I got the feeling the rod went thru the lifter.

OUCH!

Well, the somewhat good news is that you CAN remove the lifters with the heads installed.

The bad news is that it's really fun, and I mean really fun.

What you'll do is go get two good telescoping magnets (not the harbor freight variety). They have to be the normal size, not some really beefed up commercial ones.

Anyways, you'll get your rachet and extension in the hole that holds the lifter retainer brackets in place. remove this bolt and then the retaining clip.

Then reach down with your magnet and remove the bolt and retainer, then remove the lifter guide that holds the lifters, keeps them from spinning, because these are roller lifters.

Then you'll use your magnet and suck the lifters you want to remove, they'll slide right out.

Installing them is somewhat interesting, but you do with the the magnet and an unmagnetized long screw driver to hold the lifter or bracket in place while you remove your magnet from the hole. The hardest part of the whole deal is just seeing what you're doing. You'll need a flashlight that's small enough to fit into the cavern in the heads and lifters, but you will want to tie it down with a string in case you drop it and it's not metallic to pull out with your magnet.

I did this fund procedure on a 6.2, I did all 16 lifters twice, the third time I pulled the engine to find out what was really wrong with the engine (cam and bearings shot).

But, if you're only doing two lifters, then it's better to do it this way, verses all the trouble you'll run into r&r the head and gasket.

Oh man, it really sounds like lot of fun

wild willy had the suggestion of removing the heads to disassemble and clean the valves etc. This is probably the best idea although looking at the intake elbow, I really have to wonder if the engine has much left in it.

wild willy had the suggestion of removing the heads to disassemble and clean the valves etc. This is probably the best idea although looking at the intake elbow, I really have to wonder if the engine has much left in it.

I was thinking about rebuilt and spring would be the best time to do it, if I can cure it for now with some new parts and keep it alive thru winter with some good maintenance.
Previous owner obviously didn't know or care about proper maintenance.

I just got the liffter (the fun-magnet way) out and its definitly bad one, rod come thru the top of the liffter all the way down to the roller.

parts will come in tommorow,

Now time to clean up a bit, got a castrol cleaner non-flamable,

I w'll be installing new lifter and rod and since Haynes Diesel repair manual and chilton full size trucks manual dont specified it i was wondering if there is certain direction of installing lifter - witch way should the roller be pointing.

It should only go one way and it only works one way. You should drop it in, align the lifter, and then put the retainer cage that bolts to the block on, the cage being the part that will align it and hold it in place and keep it from rotataing

Dzieki

Just the update.

Truck is running very nice, drove over 600 miles this week. Bit loud but not bad - my first diesel.
Starts good, it was only below 30 in mornings next week will be colder.
Got about 18 mpg mixed driving highway/city.
Got to work this weekend but next week will move on to the driveline. Front diff needs new seal, will install new tranny filter, gasket and new fluids in both diffs and TC.
Truck could also use some new shocks, its a bit to soft but then again I have sport suspension in my car and really stiff racing suspension in race car so I like firmer stuff.

Want to thank everybody that helped me in this thread and previous one whene I was about to buy this truck. THANK YOU

:ro)