I have an 01 Ext. cab 4x4 2500HD and was wondering what I need to make this a dooley. I want to put a dump bed on and need the extra safety of the duel rear wheels.

Thanks,

Wolford

IMO you are gonna dump alot of money into a conversion.

So if it where me, I would:

1. consider buying a new truck that is equipt to handle a dump bed.

2. buy a gooseneck dump trailer, you might get out cheaper if you could find a used trailer and then you wouldn't need to beef up your truck....;)

Really, I thought that the only diff. is 3500 has overload springs. read somewhere that they are the same axle.

Not just a dump bed it will double as a very nice flat bed also.

to bad your so far away. I would swap springs with you. I could then add air bags if I needed to haul a heavier load.

Jim

I've never done a conversion but I was thinking about it when I had my 2500. Check out this site.

http://www.arrowcraft.com/

hmmmm....

Thats how I got my dually was to convert my SRW to a DRW and I had no problems doing it. I have a 1994 3500 and I had to locate a dually rear axle and it bolted right up, $500. Next was the front wheel spacers that also bolted up to the front hubs, need these so you can run the off set dually wheels in all positions, $300. I had to locate dually wheels and get new tires and I looked at a few take-off bed before I found one that was clean. I also added airbags to help out when I'm towing the 14000# 5th wheel. I am very happy with the way it went and the results. Everything is factory GM and bolted right up with no problems or supprises that usually come with these types of projects. If you're happy with your current truck and want to keep it then just do it.

THis is from the Arrowcrap FAQ page:


Will adding the dual conversion increase the GVWR of my truck?

No. What the dual wheel conversion gives you is the better stability (elimination of sway) and tire blow out protection. You will gain weight capability for the tires and wheels, but it will not surpass the factory rating for the axle.

Sell the truck and get a chassis cab with a real dump body. The inserts aren't worth the trouble. You will lose around 1000 lbs in payload. or buy a dump trailer.

check out my avitar I have a dump insert. Just purchase a rear axle and wheels and front spacer and save a ton of $. My fat back was 38000 and change Now Gm makes the single RW inone ton with duramax my next truck will be done that way.:cool2: :grd: :ro)

THis is from the Arrowcrap FAQ page:


Will adding the dual conversion increase the GVWR of my truck?

No. What the dual wheel conversion gives you is the better stability (elimination of sway) and tire blow out protection. You will gain weight capability for the tires and wheels, but it will not surpass the factory rating for the axle.


That is standard "legaleeze". Arrowcraft is doing CYA in case you have trouble/ problems. The GM rear axle rating is based on the the weight capacity of the tires the truck came with. Stock 2500HD came with 245/75r16 with capacity of 3042 lbs per tire. So, GM rates the rear axle at 6084 lbs. AAM rates the 1150 axle at 10,913 lbs. capacity. The AAM 1150 is used in the 2500HD and 3500 SRW & DRW when eqipped with the 8.1L or Dmax. The 6.0L gets a different axle, IIRC.

If you convert to DRW and add springs, then you are the same minus the door sticker. The door sticker rating and ratings in general tend to be a grey area. Look at some the commercial hualers on this site. They routinely carry more weight than the door sticker says, yet the are licensed for the weight have no trouble with weigh stations or dps.

All and all, use common sense and you will be fine. If you do convert, then stick to the ratings issued for the stock duallys you should be fine.

Ps. The conversion for front & back should be less than $1500 total with new tires. Also, you could reuse the front tires and just buy rear tires and save some money. When I get around to doing the conversion, I will keep my 265's on the front and run 235's on the rear.

When I was looking at trucks, I noticed that the 3500's (dually) weren't any more expensive than the 2500HD's. I wouldn't want to buy a new truck and do all that to it when I could just buy it that way for the same money. That is one reason I went w/3500 over the 2500HD, it was the same money, at least in my area.

That is standard "legaleeze". Arrowcraft is doing CYA in case you have trouble/ problems. The GM rear axle rating is based on the the weight capacity of the tires the truck came with. Stock 2500HD came with 245/75r16 with capacity of 3042 lbs per tire. So, GM rates the rear axle at 6084 lbs. AAM rates the 1150 axle at 10,913 lbs. capacity. The AAM 1150 is used in the 2500HD and 3500 SRW & DRW when eqipped with the 8.1L or Dmax. The 6.0L gets a different axle, IIRC.

If you convert to DRW and add springs, then you are the same minus the door sticker. The door sticker rating and ratings in general tend to be a grey area. Look at some the commercial hualers on this site. They routinely carry more weight than the door sticker says, yet the are licensed for the weight have no trouble with weigh stations or dps.

All and all, use common sense and you will be fine. If you do convert, then stick to the ratings issued for the stock duallys you should be fine.

Ps. The conversion for front & back should be less than $1500 total with new tires. Also, you could reuse the front tires and just buy rear tires and save some money. When I get around to doing the conversion, I will keep my 265's on the front and run 235's on the rear.


Or you could get a DPS officer that is an ass and he looks at you 3/4 ton rating on the door, and gives you a ticket for being overweight......

I am not going to put a dump insert. I am going to ditch the bed and go with a real dump body. I want the DRW for looks mostly as well as the added safety. Why would I buy a different truck for 20-40K when I could just drop 1500 or so and still be and look the same.

Or you could get a DPS officer that is an ass and he looks at you 3/4 ton rating on the door, and gives you a ticket for being overweight......

True, but what if you removed the 2500HD badging and had a 3500 badge?

Lots of different ideas and ways to look at it. I personally was more interested in overall length and turning radius.

Also, I have seen and talked to many contractors who run single wheel F250s and F350s who tow overweight that say the tires and trailer are the primary concern with the DPS. But, who knows? Even the "weight police" can not give you a straight answer. Go ask a couple of troopers. Bet you will get a different answer from each.;)