Well I've been saying I'd take some pics of my box and post it up for a long time now. Well finally here it is. What you're looking at here is about 2K +labor at retail. I know the pics aren't the best, I need to get Problemchild to come out here and get some shots for me. I have covers for the wires below the amps, but I just changed head units and had them off for tuning, it looks smooth with them on. I looked into having this box reproduced at a place that does it with a CNC machine, but loaded it would be over a grand! I'm working on a similar design with a less expensive yet quality brand that will run around $600 loaded. I gotta build it a hear it first though, I don't sell crap! I also put a night shot of my current Head Unit, a Kenwood X859, not my first choice but I had it already. I installed it to try out the PAC OS-2 Interface as well as the SWI-X. Both work great, the OnStar and steering wheel controls work with the new HU. I was running the factory unit to an 11 band EQ before this and my next HU will be pretty over the top...stay tuned this summer....

Ox

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/ECC_jll.jpg

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/47F_jlr.jpg

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/DF8_HU.jpg

Looks nice! I hope to get my JL's installed soon also.

Looks good. Do you think the 8" is all anyone needs? Did you calc. the internal volume of each enclosure to match to what the sub recommends?


I'm thinking of going the same route, but I have one monster 5 channel amp and I was just going to stuff it in between the 2 subs.

Looks nice.. i got a JL-1000.1 and a 450.4 for my dmax.. with some PG ti6 comp's up front, and JL 525cx's in the back.. probably going with 3 jl 10w3v2-d6's so i don't have to move the back seats... i've had everything minus the subs for 6 months..just haven't had time to put them in!

Thanks, The 8's actually hit pretty hard as 8's go, most people don't believe that they are 8's. Yes the enclosure was built to within 2ci of JL's recommended optimum internal volume as per JL's reference manual.

Drop me a line with what you have and I'll see if I can't help you design something..

Ox

Nick,
Mine are 8w3v2s and it's a tight fit, 10w6AEs or 4 8w3v2s would better suit your application as the 10w3v2s need more depth than is available. If you have money to burn, have someone fab you box with two 8w7s. It'll be tough and use ALL the space back there, but will hit...

Ox

Hey I want to add something similar, but found that a box wont fit behind or under the seat of my crew cab 04. Any ideas?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif

Your not one of those guys sitting next to me at a red light going thump thump thump are you?

I hate that.....


Nice tunes dude

http://www.subbox.net/store/ThePickup2XSubSolution(Avalanchefull-sizetrucks).html here is one that goes behind the seat

I go along with Ox on this one. I heard his system a few weeks ago and the 8's sound good. They do hit pretty hard, but have a nice tight sound to them. I was impressed and now thinking of doing something similar. I also liked how he changed his steering and a/c controls to a different color.


Chris

8's are great, they fill in a lot of the mid to low, so you get a good overal sound! But the box must be done correctly, and ox looks like he did a sweet job, where do I sign!!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Hey Ox, did you change the color of your AC and steering wheel buttons? If so, how in the world did you do it? Looks great, pulle dmy sub and amp out this weekend hope to start box soon!

Ox,


Any ideas for an extended cab. There is a company about to make a harness that allows the addition of an amp to the Bose 6CD changer, and would like to put something in to enhance my sound.

I'm pretty sure Ox is working on something for the extended cab. Pretty sure I know the guy...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif


Ty

Nice looking setup Ox. What is the mounting depth of those subs? I'll agree with grasshopper, 8's are perfect with the proper enclosure. What material did you use to build the enclosure? I have been trying to decide where I want to install subs. I have some pretty good equipment out of a truck I sold, just haven't decided how to do it yet. I will have to purchase or build a new enclosure because my old truck was a regular cab. Anyone know if you can purchase something to go between the stock head unit and the speakers that would allow you to step down output to pre-amp level, through the crossover and amps and then to the speakers using the factory harnesses? I would like to keep the stock head unit if at all possible. Maybe I can just find the factory plugs that go to the speakers and go inline? Haven't had an opportunity to dig in under the dash very much yet. Edited by: flhrciblueice

www.jpcustoms.com (http://www.jpcustoms.com) sells the PAC harness products. I believe they would have the harness you desire. The are putting together a harness to add audio inputs to the Bose 6 CD changer as well. I believe that several folks, including BlueOx have tried their products. I contacted PAC about the product above, and they mentioned a 3/1/04 release date. They were very helpful, and gave me the name of several distributors as they do not sell to the general public. jp customs has been mentioned in the forum before, might try them.

That looks nice, what subs did you use?

Looks nice.. i got a JL-1000.1 and a 450.4 for my dmax.. with some PG ti6 comp's up front, and JL 525cx's in the back.. probably going with 3 jl 10w3v2-d6's so i don't have to move the back seats... i've had everything minus the subs for 6 months..just haven't had time to put them in!


That should be really nice. How do you like the PG ti6's? I was initially considering those, but I couldn't find any info on them. InfiniteCarAudio.com has had some amazing deals on them. I wound up going w/ Dynaudio 240 GT's, but I am hoping they can stand up to the power (over 300 watts RMS each for the front components). The PG's are supposed to handle that and more (they are actually manufactured by Morel I believe).


If you would, please post info/pictures on your sub install once complete.


I am going to start w/ a single IDMAX 12 facing the back inside a sealed center console/enclosure in between the two front seats. A single JL W7 would have worked as well. That powered w/ a US Amps 2000x should be enough, but if not I might put a couple of shallower subs under the rear seats (either upward or downward firing -- not sure). I will likely need the area behind the rear seats for the amps (the 2000x and three Zapco AG350's for the components), but I might be able to get them under the seats.


Amazing how little room there is in a crew cab http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I have been considering this enclosure for my crew cab, but I am still undecided on under or behind seat.


http://www.subbox.net/store/ChevyCrewCabHeavyDutyDualDown-firesubwooferbox(2001-2004).html

Ox,


thanks for posting this.. i finally got motivated.. my stereo and my alarm/autostart/turbo timer will be getting installed while i'm on vacation back east.. i guess i just needed a little reminder of what i'm getting!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

BlueOx03 ---- NICE JOB ON THE INSTALL,LOOKS GREAT,I DID ALMOST THE SAME SET UP BUT I WENT WITH ONE 10 IN. ,IT'S MORE THEN ALL I NEED,MIKE

Nick,
It's good to see you'll finally be getting the important stuff in your truck. I've got a 1000/1 and a 10W-7 just itching to replace what's in the pics, I just need time. I hope you get a chance to look at Diesel 5's compustar at the dyno day before committing to buying something else, it has a built in turbo timer as well so no need to buy a separate one.
To all with compliments, Thank You!
Lightning-8W-3V2s
Silatman-yes PAC makes very good products, I've used them for years. For those out there in cyberspace JPcustoms is a very good online source for PAC products. If you happen to live near me, I happen to know a very good source here as well.
For those wondering about my other top secret projects like blue dash lights and other sub boxes, you'll find out when the time is right. I had to kill chilly and tysmith this weekend to keep it all under wraps for now.

For those of you considering pre fabed boxes, make sure you match the sub to the box as close as posable for the best sound. A smaller sub in an optimum sized box will sound better than a bigger one in too small of a box....

happy boom'n,
Ox

Come on spill the beans, how did you change the color of your dash lights???? HUH? HUH? I just gotta know!


Russ

Blueox - Thanks for motivating me to get this done. Can anyone guess what's on the screen in the first picture? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif Box is fiberglass w/ speaker cover panel to keep the dogs from trasking them. Here are the pictures:


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/67F_stereo1.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/5C1_stereo2.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/86A_stereo3.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/B61_stereo4.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/14D_stereo5.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/55E_stereo6.jpgEdited by: Diesel Power

sweet!!!! nick when you coming east?

Ox,


Sweet, clean install. I wish I'd of seen this before installing mine, but with 2 10's don't think it would have worked with the built in amps in the box like that. The box in my truck takes up the WHOLE back section, had to put the amps under the rear seats.


Diesel Power,


Those 10's inside that box? Like the deck too. I have the 760 premier, love it.


HD

HD4fun-


there are 3 JL 10w3v2d6's in that box. fits very snug behind the back seat. i needed as much room as i can for airspace to everythere else went under the seats. its pretty close to the 4 soundstream exact 10's i had in my old truck powered by a soundstream rubicon 1002 amp. this setup sounds cleaner at high volume though.


i bought all the stuff last summer and just had it put it, thanks to motivation by ox http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif. i would have got a newer deck but the weren't out then!

Has anyone out there used the under seat box for the crew cab from subbox.net. If so how did it work? Have been thinking about building my own but I really like the look of this one.

xcman,


I have one being built right now. I should have it by the end of the week so I'll let you know what I think when I get it. I was going to build one too, but the subbox one is built to the specs that my subs require, and it was cheaper than my time is worth, so I figured buying it would be as good as anything.

Is there anyway to fit 2x R/F Punch IIs in the back of a 04 Crew Cab??

Thanks sp33d. Looking forward to hearing what you think of that box.

Is there anyway to fit 2x R/F Punch IIs in the back of a 04 Crew Cab??


What diameter and mounting depth are they?

Has anyone out there used the under seat box for the crew cab from subbox.net. If so how did it work? Have been thinking about building my own but I really like the look of this one.


I was leaning toward subbox.net's setup, but I came across this one http://www.proboxrocks.com/chevy/crew.shtml and decided to try it out. I have yet to install it though. I am still trying to decide on which sub/amp combo to use. FYI, the airspace listed on that page is incorrect. It is actually 1 cubic foot. The enclosure looks like a very nice setup. It cost me $180 shipped. It only takes up the 60% area behind the rear seat and the port exhausts into the 40% area. This should leave enough room for some of the amp/crossover equipment in the 40% area.

Don't know what size subs you want but I put one 10w7 in my boat last summer with plenty of power and it is unbeleaveable. I had a very tight space to work with and that is all that would fit. So if you have enough volume for one 10 inch of high end jl you want be disapointed! It will make the water riple off the sides of the boat when it hits.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif

yueah, i put 2 10's in my boat last year. it does shake the fishies

JL'S JUST KICK A$$

I agree that JL's are top shelf units, but they require too much mounting depth for my enclosure. I am probably going to use a Kicker Comp VR dvc 10". I can still get them at a decent price through one of my old suppliers. I am probably going to use the old Carver 2040i to drive it until I can shop around more for a newer sub amp.

I am strictly Rockford Fosgate when it comes to subs and the amp to run them!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


HD

I am leaning toward a Rockford-Fosgate amp to push the sub. I have a few R-F subs, but none of them are 10" and that's what I need for the new enclosure. The Kicker is an outstanding sub though and it's sitting in the back seat of my truck now. Now, if I can find the time to hook everything up.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

Bought the ProBox 10" underseat single box, and it is awesome. Putting a Kicker VRComp 10" in, try eTronics, and powering with a JL Monoblock 250/1. Will see next week how it goes. Waiting on new PAC harness so I can use my iPod without an FM modulator. For those of you that haven't tried it, the iPod is like having all of your CD's in your truck. I love the thing.

I am strictly Rockford Fosgate when it comes to subs and the amp to run them!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


HD

I was the same way till I got ahold of my first JL subs.

I am running a 500.1 to my sub and a 450.4 to my door speakers. All jl audio. I have a 12w3 for my sub. I built box under seat. Took nearly 7 hrs to build. I had to notch out box a bunch. I mounted the amps behind the seat. The one 12 is more than enough with 500 watts.

I put two JL 10W3v2's behind my seat. I did move the seats up 2" to get the volume and clearence I needed though. Started out with two W8's, but wanted more. It's all good now. Sound deadener will make anything you put in sound much better.

motovet - i need to fold my seats often, otherwise i would have moved mine forward as well.

Honestly I never intended to move the seats. I did'nt want to give up all of my under seat storage so I mounted my 500/1 on the rear deck next to the box. In doing that I made the box as big as possible to get .8 cubes each, as the guys at the car audio forum were saying these sounded better with up 1 cube each. Even with .8, stuffing the box with polyfill made them sound that much better. After my careful measurements the spekers ended up to close to the seats for my liking so out came the drill and grinder. The seats still fold.....some.

Everyone who posted pics; Looks good!! I think I went a little on the overkill side with the 2 12"s behind me.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Behind_Back_Seat.jpg

Overkill?.....no such thing. Those must get deep huh. Box looks good, a bit of work to clear the hump I would imagine. Also now you have heated rear seats....at least in the middle.

Actually box wasn't too bad, just moulded the fiberglass right over the hump, perfect fit!!! People in the back seat usually walk funny after a ride in my truck. That's why I said overkill. I'm sitting at 142dB's right now.

Yes looks good. what type of amp is that?

Amp is a Pheonix Gold Octane-R 8.0:1

Nice!.....Any ladies sitting back there might not want to get out!

I am strictly Rockford Fosgate when it comes to subs and the amp to run them!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif



HD




I was the same way till I got ahold of my first JL subs.





Old style PPI Flat piston makes those subs look like baby toys. LMAO!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif


I know of someone around here who is running 1 - 10" Flat piston and I would bet you'd all be amazed. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

Question...I have an extended cab 2500. I need the under seat area for storage and don't want a bed box. Since GM decided on cheesey pop outs for the back windows, would cutting out the lower portion of the door panels and installing 8" subs with a custom panel work? My biggest concern is using the flimsey door panels as an enclosure. Would spray on Dynamat be sufficient? Any ideas?

03BlueHD-Hmmm wonder who that could be???http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif





Berk- I've done 10's in the lower portions of an OBS, you should not have any problems sticking a 10 per side, hope you like the smell of fiberglas resin! You should only be using the factory "flimsy" panel as a cosmetic panel, it is a very labor intensive effort, but can definetly be done.





8.1http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

I put 2 Alto 12" Subs iunder the rear seat and 4 Bulter Audio Amps behind the seat. The truck sounds greathttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/1ZA_DSC00048-small.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/EF3_DSC00063small.jpg

I put 2 Alto 12" Subs iunder the rear seat and 4 Bulter Audio Amps behind the seat. The truck sounds greathttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


That is one sweet install. Do you have any more pictures and/or specs on the sub enclosures? Fiberglass? Sealed? Ported? Volume?

The box is MDF. Not Portted. There is actually room under the box, since the Sub fire down. Not sure on the air space, but I will find out. I know that these subs dont require a lot of air space. The Speakers are only about 2" thick. The box extends to the outer edge of the seat, over the mounting bracket.

SP33D or anybody else have you got that box from subbox.net yet for the crew cab. Really want to get one but want to hear from somebody that has one first.

I received the box about a week ago. It's sitting empty in the back under the seat right now. I'm just waiting on a few more pieces of the system to start wiring things up.


As the subbox.net site states, you have to remove the jack under the passenger seat to install the box. It's a tight fit between the floor and the seats, but a little loose between the brackets on each end. It fits really well though, and it is made very well. I don't think it needs anchored down as it doesn't move at all with the seats down. I'll have to look into this a bit more before I finish the install though.


I had initially planned on putting my amps between the two humps on the box as it looked like there was enough room in the picture on the site... But the humps are barely even noticable in real life, and the seat sits very snug against the top of the box. The amps now have to go behind the seats.


I'll try to post a couple pics in a few days.


flduramax,


Did you buy your box, build it yourself, or have a stereo shop build it? It looks very nice!

I had audioprops in Fort Lauderdale build it. They did the entire installation. They had the truck for almost a month.

Wow! That's a loooooonng time to be without the Max. Nice install though. Was the mileage the same as when you left it?

I spent a few hours lastnight adding a single 10" sub to my factory Bose system in my 03. It took me about 5 hours, but only because I spent more time tracing down the right wires, than doing the work.


I did a write up on it complete with photos. Visit my website for the information. Knowing what I know now, I could probably do it again in about 90 minutes.


My bass is definately much better and more solid than the lame factory Bose sub.


Andrew's Duramax (http://photos.onlinedesk.net/silverado)

As promised, a couple pics of the subbox.net box.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/6D2_DSCF0076.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/BFZ_DSCF0078.gif

Nice wire nutshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif

think I will go the adapter route from PAC, seems easier and less cutting. Good effort though.


think I am gonna break out a forgotten skill set and fab a rear box of out 'glass. should increase overall dimensions over 3/4 MDF considerably. maybe cover it in same pleather the rear seat is convered in.

I guess I was too lazy to solder that connection. I did solder all the others though ;)


The only two wires that have to be spliced into are green/black blue/white set. These are the feed to the factory woofer.


I played some Bon Jovi tunes today when I was stuck in traffic, a young kid in his Mustang looked over and grinned cause he could hear the bass nicely :)Edited by: andrewfessler

He was probably grinning because you were listening to Bon Jovi in 2004. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

He was probably grinning because you were listening to Bon Jovi in 2004. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

He was probably grinning because you were listening to Bon Jovi in 2004. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif And that's wrong?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gifEdited by: Trippin

He was probably grinning because you were listening to Bon Jovi in 2004. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif And that's wrong?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif





Ditto........Trippin... I like to reminesece(sp) every now and then!!! LOL

He was probably grinning because you were listening to Bon Jovi in 2004. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif And that's wrong?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif








Nope, but a 'kid' might get a good chuckle out of it. Some day they will understand. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

I was looking at the underseat dual down-fire sub box. What speakers and amplifiers do you electronic gurus recommend for the box as well as the doors for a good clean quality sounding system? I dont compete in BOOM contests, I just like hard rock-n-roll when im alone or traveling.


This will likely be purchased by me through any deals I can get, then installed by local stereo shop personnel.


BTW- Blastin even Dr. DRE has helped get me home from allnight drives home from drag racinghttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif A nice sound system is a must!

Nope, but a 'kid' might get a good chuckle out of it. Some day they will understand. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif


Ditto Max. You should see some of the looks I get from the kids when I go through town with the windows down.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Tony- i hear you.. I've listened to almost anything to stay awake during a 7 hour drive after being up for 36 hours!

Laughs! I listen to all sorts of music, it just happened to be that I was in the mood for some good Jovi tunes. On those long late night drives, anything fast paced usually keeps me awake.


I have noticed that, the local FM stations have better bass and sound then my XM stations.


I love pulling up next to these kids and cranking my truck up. They certainly dont expect a truck that appears to be stock to, break the noise ordinance and speed ordinance at the same time. :)


(gotta love Juice)

Anyone been able to fit two 12's under or behind the backseat of an '04 chevy crewcab. Already got my amps, 2 alpine M1000's 1000 watts each at 2ohms. Don't want to have to cut into the bed. Can't find any 10's that are rated that high so I don't really want to waste all that power that I already have in those amps.

It'd be a very tight fit, but JL 13W6V2 might work. They will take on 1000 watts @2 ohms and knock your eye balls outhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I have two Alto 12" subs under by back seat. see the pics earlier in this thread. Sounds great. They fire down.

I think I am going to order the SubBox.net box. Will two Punch 2's fit under the seat perfect? Also I have the PAC Connector I used in my 98 Cobra with the Mach460, that should work still?? I'm going to buy an aftermarket Headunit, probably Alpine, but funds arent here for that.

Powell,


I have two Punch 2 8's under my seat in the subbox.net box. None of Rockford's 10's would fit, all were too deep. It's hard to find a good 10 that will fit under our seats, though I know they exist.


My truck is a crew cab... I know there is more room in the extended cabs. My brother got the p2 10's for his extended cab 2002 chev in the subbox.net box. We can't tell the difference between our trucks...

See I have 12s already. So am istuck??

Use a Peerless XLS series 10". AMAZING driver, very musical. Get the car version. Shallow depth for a 10 and they will move more air than most 12's. Alignment is important, follow the volume requirements for your desired application. If you can make your own box, this looks to be an amazing ported application, and will make SPL's at 30 HZ better than anuthing else I have modeled in a limited volume application.


This would be the way to go, I am designing 2 10's behind the seat, ported if possible. Will update.


PS, a piece of advise to those using factory heads and looking for a clean signal for this project, don't splice into the existing wiring, it is garbage, full of noise you don't want in a sub. Get the PAC adapter (not the line output converter!!!!) that provides 4 channel source origin line output, big improvement. For most of us, the part is AOEM-GM24. Plug and play.Edited by: masterp2

thought the PAC converter only provides 2 channel out, not 4. You 100% ???

I have a Alpine CD/sereo. I need some recommendations on quality door speakers, amps, crossover, as well as down fire thin type speakers for a small sealed box. The best cheap/quality way to go.


The installers at circut city and best buy etc have steered me in the wrong direction before. Im looking to go there with a plan and get them to "make it work".


Help!

ski1


What is your experience? Here are some links to cheap PAC adapters


http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=90129366&sp=1&loc=111


http://www.audiooutfitter.com/cgi-bin/store/AOEM-GM24.html?id=eWfcZLq3


They say 4 channel. Has amp trigger also!

I want to know which PAC adapter to get/use for my '04 truck with the BOSE system. I want to bypass the BOSE amp all together and hook up my MTX 5-channel amp to run my system with. I pulled out all the BOSE speakers and put in new components - Perless 7" woofers in the doors along with 1" Morel Soft dome tweeters, new MTX coax rear speaks and I am working on what to do for a sub.


Thanks for your help!


STefan

Assuming you are running factory head? Why wouldn't the one above your post not work? Just run new speaker wire.


I just designed a dual 10 wedge box for behind the rear seat. When done it will look like it came from the factory. 2- peerless xls 10" (Part 514), and works well in as little as .5 cf net, sealed. Ported can be done but it is harder to create a flat alignment after cabin gain, and it has construction challenges in this small space.


Flat response +/- 3 db, over 116 db from 5HZ-200HZ, according to simulation modeling software.

Newguy


How does all that sound off the bose amp? Can't be too good. The MTX off this adapter should really improve things. Do you have any pics?


Also the pair of XLS 10" drivers (4.5" mount depth) will likely need to be series, unless you have 2 seperate channels, both 2-ohm stable (according to peerless, they are less than 4 ohm). Running them parallel will bring the load to 1-2 Ohm.


Anybody, how do you deal with plastic seatbacks on the wedge boxes? Close quarters, firing into a barrier that close changes the response curve I'd guess Edited by: masterp2

masterp2,


you are correct. unit i was thinking of was only two channel

Tony- the best thing for you to do is go to some different shops and listen to different speakers and then get what you like. If you plan to drive the door speakers off the HU, it will be a pretty easy DIY install. That's the beauty of having a 01-02. You can get all you need at a Metra dealer to make the install pretty much plug n' play. Then if you want subs, but don't want to tackle the job, you'll have money that you didn't spend on putting all the rest of it in.


Newguy- if you do not have Onstar or you don't use it, just use the PAC C2R-GM24, JPcustoms carries them. If you have OnStar and want to keep it, you can use the PAC OS-2 and CM1 if you want chimes you can also get those at JP customs. Metra also has a line of interfaces, pretty much the same thing, just better sounding chimes.

removed


sorry for my haste, didn't RTFQ. But to clarify, that adapter is for using an aftermarket HU, correct?


Did Newguy say he wants to do that? I just didn't see it. If not, that is the wrong adapter.Edited by: masterp2

Yes those are for an after market HU. I just figured since he asked after the line out adapter was discussed that he was changing the HU as well. I cut the line level lines in the console and soldered on RCA and ran it to an EQ that I mounted in the console. The EQ cleaned up the sound, and it had a three-way crossover with three RCA outs. As anyone who went to the Grand Rapids GTG last year will tell you, it sounded pretty good.


Newguy-drop me a line if you're interested in info on wiring yours the way I described. Edited by: BlueOx03

Blueox03


have you tried the PAC adapters yet? For $29 it would seem to be a very clean alternative.

Masterp2


Yes I've used PAC adapters, I use them in many installs, I also sell them. If you're not using the factory amp, why waste $30 on an adaptor when you can tap the low level outputs that are already there? The lineouts from he factory HU can be hooked up directly to an after market amp or like I did to an EQ. If it's done right, which is not hard, it will sound better and be cheaper than the PAC adaptor. This is just an option, I'm not trying totis anyone's arm here.


Ox

"If you're not using the factory amp, why waste $30 on an adaptor when you can tap the low level outputs that are already there?"


I'm not sure I understand. What is the difference, using the bose amp or not using it? The line out you refer to would be there either way, upstream of the bose amp, correct?


Also, do you know if the stock speakers sound any better using another amp, or is that combo optimized?


The bose magic recipe is so annoying, I am at a loss to understand why they have to reinvent sound, I just don't care for it's lackluster and complete lack of bottom end, or why they even admit they put a sub on board, it's shameful. I really don't think I catch anything under 80HZ. XM doesn't "sound" digital. It sounds "hazy".


Is it possible, in an 04, to replace all the speakers, use another amp, and not run new speaker wire, ie use the factory harness to carry the new signal? Pro's, cons?Edited by: masterp2

I always like replacing everything. Head unit, speakers, amps and wiring. Use as little of the factory wiring as possible, but don't cut the factory wores, so you can replace the factory radio when you sell the truck.

Thats exactly what I want to do. replace everything. I want amps , eq, and anything else I need


Mainly looking for a certain brand or type of door speaker and low mounting depth subs that are better than the rest before the "sales kid" sells me some junk that sounded good in their display board.


I like lots of power, too much is good? Hard hitting clean sound. I'm keeping the truck for a while.

I went with Diamond Audio Speakers, Butler Audio Tube Driver Amps, I couldn't get the Diamond Audio Amps to fit, they were too big, and Alto 12" Subs. The combination produces great clean sound, there is plenty of bass, but not too much. What ever you get, make sure that all of the components are of the same quality, don't buy the most expensive speakers, if you are going to use a cheap amp or cables. They system is only as good as your weakest component.

Thanks fldur


Sorry if i sound stupid (I am) did you get the speaker/stereo system from a big circut city type or order and install yourself. Personally I dont have the time.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

Diamonds, MB, Focals, Adire, Jl,....there are is a lot of good stuff out there when it comes to components. Personally I like the uncolored sound of the Boston Pro. Thing is you will have to listen for yourself to see what you like. Bring a CD you like and compare the differences of each system. As far as amps and subs you can't go wrong with JL. A couple JL10w3V2's and a 500/1 will do the trick.

Masterp2-I agree Bose dose some wacky stuff with there car audio. I love my Bose home theader, but IMO thier car audio is WAY over price junk. I've heard Walmart bought Jensen sysems that sound better. I wouldn't try to just replace the amp, the front speakers run at 2 ohms where the rears run 4. That would fry some amps and make others give half as much power to the rears if they are balanced (like a JL 300/4). You could run two amps but there isn't much room in the console. or trouble than it's worth. You could use the factory wiring with afour chanel, but again more trouble than it's worth. I agree with flduramax, replacing eveything is your best bet.


Ox

Ok ok ok, here's my deal. I am keeping my factory radio adn bypassing the BOSE junk. I just ordered the PAC AOEM-GM24 which will give me 4 line out's from the HU and it will keep the annoying ding-ding and the Onstar working.


The current setup I have is a high level to line converter and the sound is REALLY bright and has no bass. The BOSE EQ curve is like that... From what PAC says I'll have a 20-20K flat response coming outta the HU for my amps.


As for speakers, I simply ordered mine as discrete seperate components from www.partsexpress.com (http://www.partsexpress.com) after spending tons of time researching the things. I'm really really picky (as I run a commercial sound install company) and didn't want to go with run of the mill speakers.


As for how the rear MTX speakers sound off the factory bose amp, they sound OK, but again no bass and really bright.


I'll get some pics posted once I have the install complete. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif


Oh, and I have 2 full bulk pak's of Dynamat Xtreme installed in the truck... what a HUGE difference that makes.


you can check my audio website out at www.audiovideoelectronics.com (http://www.audiovideoelectronics.com)


Stefan

blueox03,


Don't tell me you have an acoustimass!!!


remember back in 88, i was in the Air Force, got a great discount on 901's, (Oooooh 901's, unlimited power handling!!!!) suspended them from the cieling pointing down. I wondered why my wizzer cone auto settup sounded better with 15 W. Boy was I happy when I sold those, made room for some Polk audio (nice back then).


Thanks for the feedback on the harness and amp, interesting.


Newguy,


get that digital camera out! Sound deadening, now we're talkin. Where did you find the biggest improvement, doors, floor?


I bought some carpet and started a dual 10" peerless XLS sealed wedge project today. Initial specs, .71cf ea gross. Will contain up to 5.25" mounting depth, but the peerless will be 4.375" depth fully recessed. Amp will have to mount under. My first project with these, but appear to be a class A SQ driver. I'll start some photos of the project for anyone interested and post a new thread.

You got it, a Lifestyle 12 actually. It's seven years old, been rebuilt once and sounds great. I don't spend much time watching tv or movies though, so I don't nee much. Oh, I got a good military discount on it too, a gal I worked with got it for me a penny over cost when she re-enlisted.

As for speakers, I simply ordered mine as discrete seperate components from www.partsexpress.com (http://www.partsexpress.com)


Tell us what you ordered.

tony,


No I had a small custom shop do the work. I try and stay away from the big chain stores, they just want to get you in and out, not interested in doing a custom job. You will get better servie from a small shop. It may cost you a little more, but it is definately worth it, if you find the right installer.

Masterp2, check my pics for my sound deadener install. Newguy is right...big difference. My priority on our trucks would be: 1. Doors 2. Rear deck (vibrates with subs) 3. Floor 4. Roof. You can't get to the firewall, but you can use the spray on from the engine compartment to help out there. And Tony by all means do not have anything installed by a mega seller installer like mentioned above....in most cases you will get an install that is not worthy of our great ride.

Thanks guys,


I'll start shopin around.

Motovet


Thanks for the suggestions, nice install. Would you consider putting a dense pad, 3/8 carpet pad between the door panel and door? I have heard that is a good addition. Helps with that road noise echo chamber.


I notice you moved your back seat. Are those JL's bottomed in the cabinet?


Anybody baffling thier door speakers?

There is a bit of breathing room behind the subs. Problem was I had the box built to my specs as I don't own a table saw and did not account for the external speaker depth which is rather thick on these. I was attempting to maximize my internal volume and still have room for the 500/1 next to the box so I would maintain some underseat storage. I can't remember off hand what the exact internal volume was, but I did add alot of polyfill and they sounded even better. I learned over at the car audio forum the 10's sounded best at around 1 cube each, and I got close. As far as the pad I would think it's better than nothing, but would say the deadener is a better bet. I would check out the car audio forum to learn more on that. I learned alot over there and needed to as this was my first install. Edited by: motovet

I used a latex paint with rubber particles in it as well as a fiber mesh inbetween coats. I was able to coat the doors, door panels, roof, beack side of the head liner, floor, and rear wall. This made a great improvement in quieting the noise inside the truck.

Motovet,


Looks like you are having to keep to seats down? Do your driver touch the seat back when the seat is back?


Yes, the JL 10W3 has very high Q, even at 1 cf, Q=1.0. It would have some powerful "one note bass" characteristics that some people are after, not me, I want flat response, unfiltered all the way to the bottom octave. For what I like, Q=.7 or less, it would need 2-3 cf.


The peerless XLS modeled perfectly for me, and mounts over an inch shallower. A Qtc=.6 box modeled at .7 cf, and a 14 liter box (.5 cf) is a common application in audiophile systems. Still at 300RMS, a pair of these will be hard to beat for it's optimizing the small space behind the back seat.Edited by: masterp2

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/D51_10comp.pngEdited by: masterp2

Here is the MAX SPL plot, both great drivers, but if flat response at max spl's is desired, the peerless will attain it. The cabin gain for our trucks begins where the peerless starts sloping, when added to this curve the resultant is dead flat. With the JL, there will be a big hump making the JL the SPL winner, in a very narrow bandwidth, but there are considerable tradeoffs to the rest of the spectrum. Add 12 db/Octave (cabin gain) to this curve beginning at 100 HZ and this can be seen better. But aside from all this theoretical mumbo jumbo, the best thing about it to me, is that it fits in places that usually require an 8", yet with superior 10" performance.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/BZB_10maxspl.pngEdited by: masterp2

The drivers do not touch the seat back now that I moved the seat up 1.75". Interesting info.

Hully shot!I have no foking idea what thats all about!


Im sure it great info though. Will those 10" subs work in the dual down fire box? What amp specs are needed for the full range?

Tony, should work in any 10" app for this truck, as little as .4 cf, but prefers .6. Check the specs, this has a mtg depth of 4 5/8. Look for 300 W RMS in a good brand to maximize utility of the driver. Also outer ring diameter is 10.5"-10.6", only a factor for recessed mounting, which most commercial boxes are not. Inner dia is 9.5".


Or look here


http://www.d-s-t.com/main/tech/appxlsc2.htm

Wow mastrp


Will a 300w amp support 2 10" subs or would that be only one? And if only one is it necessary to have 2 separate amps or just 1 600+ watt amp for 2 subs in sealed downfire box?


Thanks Im headed to a couple stereo shops this afternoon.

This driver carries a low impedance single voice coil. I recommend a "2 Ohm stable" amp if you want to use 2 channels at 300 RMS per channel. Also, you can't have too much power, but you can damage drivers by trying to drive them loudly with too little. These will work great with 150 RMS, and only 3 dB louder (doubling sound volume) with 300 RMS.


You could also run these wired together in series, doing so would present a 4 ohm load (or higher) to the amp. Most single channel sub amps would have no problem with this. Or you could use a 2 channel amp bridged, again make sure it has no problem running 4 ohm bridged. MTX seems to make good stout amps. Also some amp manufacturers rate thier amps at 14.4V, which make them look better on paper than they actually are, some are overated, some underated, so shopping is not an easy apples-apples process. A few rate at 12V, a 300W amp at 12V has more capabilty than the same at 14.4V.


One thing you can do is compare the weight and fuse rating of various amps, silly as it sounds, this sometimes has more accuracy than listening to the power rating. Make darn sure your amp has built-in high pass/low pass crossovers.


Look ar crutchfields web site, they have some amps you can look at for features, but they are overpriced on everything.


BTW, these drivers are not widely available or known, though they are very high quality at half the price, marketed for the DIY crowd, which we know has superior results to commercial, the added improvement of construction overkill. As an example, most commercially available boxes will be made from single layer 5/8" MDF with no bracing and be full of resonance coloration. You'd be lucky to get one that is even glued, ar air tight. All these things spell out LOSS. I can make a 100 W amp sound better (and louder) than a 200W amp, using it in a better quality box. Sealed boxes are simple in concept, but are easily and commonly made trashy. Some don't even use MDF, substituting a lighter density fiber (cheaper to ship).


BTW, why are you set on a downfiring box? Not a bad way to go, just curious.Edited by: masterp2

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/EA3_Untitled.jpg

Thanks again. I am only looking at the downfire box because I have an 02 crewcab and not much is available. I want to use the underseat space opposed to behind the seat for subs. Space is very limited as you know. Also I cant give up the truck for a weeks while someone builds a box for it. The one I was looking at is the same as the one pictured earlier in the thread from subbox.net.


I really appreciate all the imput.

Things to look for in a box, or when building. Some will think this is overkill for auto sound. Not so, all these things improve performance, and make a 10 perform like a 12 (oversimplification). The box above is my design and incorporates a no compromise method, start to finish.


1.5" baffle lamination with 1" mounting, leaves full 1/2"-3/4" driver recess.


3/4" (minimum) MDF, not particle board, not plywood (except baltic birch)


Multiple rib bracing


Glued AND screwed everywhere, no unfilled gaps. A pint of WOOD glue and a pound of 2" drywall screws.


Drivers mounted on a gasket, with T-nuts and hex bolts, not screws.


silicone sealant inside every corner for airtight assurance!


HEAVY, the heavier the better. With drivers, this box is about 100 lbs.


Stuffed with fiberglass insulation or dacron polyfill, I prefer fiberglass.

And I thought I was picky....


Masterp2 is right the better the box, the better the sound. I've heard cheap subs in an optimum built box sound way better than JLs in a cheap box. You gotta get the air space just right. I get asked all the time how many 10s I have in my truck, the 8s hit that good.

Definately, for JL's T/S specs, the 8's are a better fit to the volume constraints, and probably sound better than 10's in the same volume.


For Sale:


Making 3 of these for locals, This one is routed for 10's up to 4.75" mounting depth, full recess, OD is 10 5/8". Perfect fit behind the seat, no moving the seat, .71 cf each, partitioned. Local sale or will ship. Just bring it to your installer or finish yourself. Can also make one for 10W3's mounting, though not optimum. PM me for more photos or info.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/183_Untitled.jpg

Does anyone have a comment on this idea -- likely stupid, but I thought I'd put it out....I have an ext cab and want to minimize the space taken under the seat. Could I build a custom sealed box who's cross section looks similar to the cross section of the rear bench where the box under the back of the seat would have minimum depth and height (just enough to mount two 8" of 10" drivers as close to the back as possible) and a 'wedge' cross section that went up behind the seat for the added air space. Building this would be no problem, but given the investment that’s going into the thing, for the trade-off of saved spaced to lowered quality sound, doe this sacrifice sound too much?<?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />


Thanks

It only comes down to providing enough volume for the driver you select. The major causes of lousy sound, listed by common occurence are:


Undersizing the enclosure volume


Shabby enclosure construction/leaky boxes


Ported misalignment


not enough power (current) for driver efficiency constraints


Poor quality driver (last)Edited by: masterp2

It only comes down to providing enough
volume for the driver you select.* The major causes of lousy sound,
listed by common occurence are:


Undersizing the enclosure volume


Shabby enclosure construction/leaky boxes


Ported misalignment


not enough power (current)*for driver efficiency constraints


Poor quality driver (last)

I agree 100%....the world may end now...

I recommend sticking with 8s for your space constraints. If you
chose to run JLs, drop me a line I have all the dealer reference books
for specs...

Ox

Enermax, if you do build this box post up some pictures for us. I'd be very interested in how it works out.