If the T-Valve is leaking...in other words sucking in air while the vehicle is not running. Could this cause the motor to stall a few seconds after start-up?

How hard is it to replace the fuel line that runs from the bottem of the fuel filter to the t-valve?

How hard is it to replace the fuel line that runs from the bottem of the fuel filter to the t-valve?

Not sure about the first question, but not too hard to replace the fuel line. I had to do my a couple of months ago. Just a little tough fishing it under the intake.

Not sure about the first question, but not too hard to replace the fuel line. I had to do my a couple of months ago. Just a little tough fishing it under the intake.

Was yours leaking? Any stalling problems at all?

My truck also has the symptoms of a failing PMD but it has been cold stalling for so long it makes me wonder. I know that I will probably eventually have to shell out the $400+ for a remote mount set-up but I am hoping that it might be something simple to fix.

Was yours leaking? Any stalling problems at all?

No it was not leaking. I did the lift pump test and got no fuel and no stalling. The fuel filter to T valve fuel line was clogged. That is why I replaced mine.

Try upening up the T valve and see if you get fuel, sure you will if you are leaking there, if the truck stalls you might have a lift pump problem. Also, check the fuel filter.

I'm sort of new with the diesel engine, so, maybe somebody else can chine in and correct me if I am wrong. :o:

Upon closer inspection the rubber fuel line is ripped right below the T-Valve. I'm not sure if it was this bad prior to removing the bracket on the thermostate cover or i made it worse when taking a look at it. It seems that it would be leaking quite a bit of fuel when the engine is running...more than is apparent.

After cutting off the end and trying to reinsert the T-valve into the hose it seems as though the hose is to brittle. The end is cracking.

Is this hose a hard plastic type hose or is it this way because of age?

What needs to be done in order to replace this line? Can I pick up this fuel line at any parts store?

How do I get to the bottom of the fuel filter?

Is there anything to be careful of?

I know...to many questions!!

I did not know much about mine either. I just jumped in there and gave it a try.

The hose is rubber and I think it is 3/8 fuel hose. I got mine from Napa. Look on your hose and you should see the size.

As far as the bottom of the filter..if I remember right..there are two bolts, one on each side of the filter housing. Remove those and you should be able to raise the housing up enough to get the hose off.

Go ahead and get a new filter in while you are there. After the filter change, turn the black valve on top of the new filter to bleed the air out.

On the bottem of the fuel filter which line in the one that runs to the T-valve? Is it the one labled "OUT"?

Should I drain the fuel fiter?

I have taken the bolts out that hold the filter in and That gives me a little more room to work but how in the world can I get that fuel hose on the bottem of this housing without messing up the one that runs to the IP?

Any Tips out there on this would be much appreciated. I'm supposed to be leaving for Albany in the morning.:help:

It's a 1/4' fuel line, and it's just hard and brittle from age. Mine crumbled when I took the t-handle off to do the 97+ cooling mods. Try and get marine coast guard approved hose for it if you can, much thicker and heat reistant.

On the bottem of the fuel filter which line in the one that runs to the T-valve? Is it the one labled "OUT"?

Yes the one labled "out". I think the one labled "in" is from the lift pump. I think it will drain when you take the hose off. Its a little tough getting in there even with the bolts off but with a little elbo grease you should get it. Maybe somebody on here has a tip or better way...

It's a 1/4' fuel line, and it's just hard and brittle from age. Mine crumbled when I took the t-handle off to do the 97+ cooling mods. Try and get marine coast guard approved hose for it if you can, much thicker and heat reistant. Thanks Ferminator!!

I have Hose and have it threaded on thru to the back I'm just kinda staring at it wondering once I slide that hose off the bottem of the filter how i'm going to get the new hose on. Any Suggestions?

I'm still stuck on this. Which one goes to the T-Valve. After looking at the hose I think the one that says "out" goes to the pump..but i'm not sure. A little help?

The one that has the hose on it that goes to the T valve. Trace the hoses or wiggle one and watch the hose at the T valve. Hopefully you have'nt taken it off already. If you did, then put the new hose on the niple that you took it off. Unless you took both of them off. It should the the out one.

I haven't taken either off yet. I've loosened the one that says "out" but then stopped when I wiggled it and could not feel it. The other one is wet with diesel and is the one that I think is the one that runs to the T-Valve but I wasn't very sure because I couldn't grab that one to check and because of your earlier post i stopped. It looks like if I mess up the one that goes to the IP the manifold has to come off and I don't want to go there...hence the caution.

The one that goes to the T-Valve is on the left(passenger side). The one that says "out" and is on the right (Drivers side) goes to the IP.

I found it interesting that no diesel came out when i finally took the hose off.

Once I figured out which line it was it was not all that big a deal sliding the old hose off and putting the new hose on. I will give it a few days and post again if this gets rid of the cold stalling problem.

Some good pics of the bowl here(Mine is modded yours will have 2 small barbs) http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42291&highlight=feeding+beast T should be connected on the drain barb, out is out to the IP, if it wasn't leaking fuel, it wouldn't suck air, your problem lies elsewhere, look in the FAQ for troubleshooting lift pump.

Upon closer inspection the rubber fuel line is ripped right below the T-Valve. I'm not sure if it was this bad prior to removing the bracket on the thermostate cover or i made it worse when taking a look at it. It seems that it would be leaking quite a bit of fuel when the engine is running...more than is apparent.

After cutting off the end and trying to reinsert the T-valve into the hose it seems as though the hose is to brittle. The end is cracking.

Is this hose a hard plastic type hose or is it this way because of age?

What needs to be done in order to replace this line? Can I pick up this fuel line at any parts store?

How do I get to the bottom of the fuel filter?


Is there anything to be careful of?

I know...to many questions!!
The hose is rotting due to age, mine did the same thing when changing out the t-stat. It is a bit of a PIA but you can get the rubber fuel line from a local auto store and get new clamps.
You will need to loosen up the fuel filter bowl and I used some #8 guage copper wire(used for grounding) bent to follow the run under the intake and clamped the line to the fuel bowl first and then to the front. I forget the actual size of the line and can not find the left-over 3 feet that I had left(if you saw my garages, you would understand) to get the sizes for you.
Be patient and you will :grd: .
Mark

I'm sure TD will correct me if I'm wrong but you may want to check your OPS as well as checking your lift pump. It is what controls your lift pump(at least on my year truck, your has the new electronic stuff), it may save you a few bucks unlike me by not checking both and then ended up replacing both....:eek: .
Mark

I'm sure TD will correct me if I'm wrong but you may want to check your OPS as well as checking your lift pump. It is what controls your lift pump(at least on my year truck, your has the new electronic stuff), it may save you a few bucks unlike me by not checking both and then ended up replacing both....:eek: .
Mark

:thumb::thumb: :thumb:

I replaced the OPS a few weeks ago and that cured the sputtering during hard acceleration and the occasional stalling that went with it. I have done the test in the FAQ's for the lift pump and it seems to be OK. I have had this odd stalling that seems to me to be air in the fuel...or that could be just wishful thinking and it is the PMD on it's way out or worse the IP. Hope Not! Anyhow I tried something less expensive first. After finding this forum I realized that I have been driving around in this truck for quite awhile with quite a few problems. It will be one weekend project after another for a while.

I'm glad you know what your doing in regards to working on the truck. I'm $3,000.00 deep into it now and still do not have it running(for a month now). I now have all new injectors, IP, tank, sending unit, blown lines, filter, flushed/replaced coolant and now having the valves checked. Not to mention everything else I've changed/replaced prior to this endeavor. After the tranny I'll have a new truck..:eek:
Mark