Ok I have a friend that has a 94 6.5 turbo pickup and wants to know if he can easly bolt a na 6.2 under his 6.5 induction system. 6.2 is from A 84 3/4 ton should he use the 94 ip and intake will all the electronics fit from the 6.5 how do you adjust/check the boost presure what about transmision and tq will those fit a 6.2 thanks:help2:

Why put electronics back on ? Just get a rebuilt DB2 IP mechanical> The rest will bolt right up. Except for the injectors . Take the injectors off the 6.5 and put them on the 6.2 for turbo clearance reasons. 6.5's are shorter. and the 6.2's wont work with a stock gm turbo, also you will have to modify a 3" down pipe off the turbo to clear the frame. Thats All ! Oh and put new head gaskets on with arp studs (new) Always new head bolts or your asking for it !

what he said

Why put electronics back on ? Just get a rebuilt DB2 IP mechanical> The rest will bolt right up. Except for the injectors . Take the injectors off the 6.5 and put them on the 6.2 for turbo clearance reasons. 6.5's are shorter. and the 6.2's wont work with a stock gm turbo, also you will have to modify a 3" down pipe off the turbo to clear the frame. Thats All ! Oh and put new head gaskets on with arp studs (new) Always new head bolts or your asking for it !howbout idrop the turbo keep n/a 6.2 only not interested in alot of power.

Heads are also different between early 6.2's and 6.5's. The main difference is in the injector angle. Later heads have a different injector angle that helped in reducing smoke. Other than that most of the parts are interchangeable with the exception of rear main seals and timing cover. In order to keep the 94 electronics, it would require reuse of the 94 balancer, lower timing chain gear, timing cover, cylinder heads. :eek:

this 6.5 blew a head gasket poped a hole in piston .is it an option to sleeve deamaged cylinder?

I know to many questions to ask about such a vague discription. but i got a deal on the truck even if i do have to buy an enjohn. just educating myself. thanks for the tips

sleeving is a very good option if you only have one bad hole.:cool:

if i stick w 6.5 do i need to beef up bottom end to support main bearing caps? better yet recomend a good manual to answer these questions. ihave ordered a military service manual offebay, looking foward to getting my feet wet. thanks again

i'd sleeve the 6.5 and put it back together i sleeved the #4 hole in my 6.5 cost me 100 bucks to have sleeve put in

This just in: this is a '93 one-ton, not a '94. This means I have the mechanicals, not the electronics. The 6.2 I have is running great. In order to use turbo, do I need to beef up the botton end of 6.2, or do I just run it n/a? I'm interested in longevity. Will I lose this by using the 6.5 turbo and heads instead of plain-jane 6.2?

6.2's and 6.5's share many common parts. Bearings are the same, as are rods, wrist pins etc. 6.5 has beefier piston crowns that resist cracking better from high heat, boost etc. 6.2's seem to fail head gaskets more often when turboed than 6.5's or it could have just been my right foot and 15psi of boost:confused: Bolt your 6.5 heads and injection system on your 6.2 bottom end and run it. While you are running around the country side, rebuild your 6.5 short block. 93's were a very good year for blocks and you probably have the highly desireable 599 block.