I have an 05 Dmax with 19K miles

I was driving down the road today going about 40-45mph, when all the sudden my truck made this strange sound (not a loud pop or anything) a weird sucking sound, then it had zero power. Like, wont go over 15mph, and it sounds like a john deere tractor. I have a boost gauge, and the truck is hitting right at about 5psi, but it actually takes 30 seconds to get up to 15mph, and it wont go any faster than that becaue it is in limp mode and the check engine light is on. Luckily i was near my shop, so i backed up traffic for a few miles driving at a steady 15mph, but I can't go anywhere. This thing flat out wont run. I couldn't hardly get through an intersection without the light turning red - that is how slow it is. I let it sit for a few hours (went and shot some skeet) and came back, now it wont even go over 700rpm when i sit and hit the gas, and the engine sounds worse. What could be going on? I filled up with fuel this morning, and it was suggested that maybe it could be bad gas, but I need to know what is going on so that I dont take it to the dealership and owe them a ton of money for bad diesel or soemthign like that.

Anyone dealt with this before, or know exactly what bad fuel is like so I can rule that out.

You probably popped off an intercooler boot. Check the lower boot on the driver side. You will have to remove the fender liner to get at it.

I just checked that out...thanks for the tip, but unfortunately that wasnt it. When i say it sounds like john deere tractor, i mean it really sounds like a tractor and makes this horrible clacking sound from the dead center of the engine. Not like piston slap, or valves hitting or anything like that, like a really bad diesel clacking sound.

I'd say follow the intake tract from the Filter into the motor. Sounds like you have a leak somewhere.

It could be something really major as well. Better take it to a dealer.

Yeah, I dont mind taking it to the dealer, it has a warranty and that was my plan, I just was wanting to make sure that it wasnt something that I could easily fix. Thanks for the help.

How many miles on the fuel filter?

Sounds like a shorted FICM wire. That happened to me and with the same results. There's a TSB on it somewhere. You can fix it yourself as discussed in here previously (do a search) or the dealer can fix it pretty quick.

Sounds very similar to what mine did a few weeks back. Threw a code for the injector circuit on # 1 injector. The fuel gauge read empty, and the low fuel warning light was on as well. After sitting overnight, it was fine. Hasn't occurred since.

Mark

This morning I started it up and it sounded almost normal for a little bit. It was very very very slow to rev up, but it would go past 2K rpm, and then about 30 seconds later it went back to "john deere mode." So I dont know if it has to do with warming up or what. I had it towed into the dealership. They called me from the dealership and said that they were very busy and that they haven't had a chance to diagnose it yet...and they were giving me a hard time because it has "oversize tires" on it. They are gonna call me tomorrow, hopefully they will fix it up quick.

Kennedy:
The fuel filter just got changed after about 16K miles (it has 19K now)

BTfarm:
That would be great if that was the case what is an FICM wire?

DMAX/Hemi:
the Gauges are all reading normal

and they were giving me a hard time because it has "oversize tires" on it.

What size are the tires ?

285/70 16 on factory wheels

Thats rediculous. I had my dealer in Louisiana before I moved, ask me if I put a chip in it. They even said the exhaust sounded good. I told them no because I didnt know if it was a trick question or not. Playing dumb, I said, "I have done a bit of research on chips and wasnt sure yet which one to get". I couldnt believe it. Sorry for your troubles. Maybe try a different dealer down the road. I went through 3 untill I finally got great service. And the 3rd one wasnt where I bought it at.

Is this problem resolved yet?

I am a novice and know nothing, but my 2005 DMAX just did the same thing 2 weeks ago. I had just changed the filter, but it was getting steadily worse. Then the weather got warmer (was < 40F, now > 70F), and it all of a sudden started to run fine again. Someone here suggested my problems might be fuel that was not ready for Winter and they were probably right.

When you filled up before it happened, did you by any chance go to a Mobile station and grab the green handle and fill it with Gas, because Mobile stations that do not sell diesel have a lot of green Handles.

i thought about the gas/diesel thing a lot, but i am 100% certain it was deisel - i went to the same station i always do, and i remember thinking about how dirty the green handle was. Also, just for good measure I bled the fuel system at the fuel filter, and definately got some diesel on my hands - no gasoline in there.

I have been reading about the TSB relating to the FIMC wire, and I am now almost certain that is what the problem is. I also talked to a friend of a friend who I now know is a duramax specialist at the other local dealership (man I wish i knew that before) and he said he just fixed a truck 2 weeks ago doing the exact same thing...so I am gonna head down to the dealership tomorrow where it is and show them what I think the problem is.

It sounds like it is definately injector related. When the injectors don't fire correctly the almost sound like a knock from a hard part, ie. rod or piston. Sounds like there might be a few of them out. I had two injectors dropping out on me at light load speeds, and I could still pull enough power to maintain 55mph

Sounds like a shorted FICM wire. That happened to me and with the same results. There's a TSB on it somewhere. You can fix it yourself as discussed in here previously (do a search) or the dealer can fix it pretty quick.

This could be the problem, but regardless if it is or not, this simple procedure should be done by EVERYONE with a LLY. It isn't a matter of IF these wires are going to wear through, only WHEN they wear through - and it will leave you up the creek when it happens!

2004.4 2500HD LLY/A CC/SB

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36956

OK, they said the truck will be ready tomorrow. I really havent felt like asking them a bunch of questions, so I havent had any in depth conversations with the people about what the problem is, but basically the lady said they are "Replacing the FICM Module" and it will be ready tomorrow afternoon. She did say that b/c of the 285s if i ever have a problem with the transmission they wont cover it...that kinda blows.

if the FICM replacement fixes it, I'll buy the beer.....

lol...well, i'll just hope it does...but what are you thinking it is

[quote=coleaudio She did say that b/c of the 285s if i ever have a problem with the transmission they wont cover it...that kinda blows.[/quote]


What a load of CRAP!:mad:

Let us know what the final service sheet says...

OK...Got the truck back. Really the whole thing went smoothly. They replaced the fuel injector control module, and replaced one injector. And everything is back to normal. Since I was already under the hood once I got it back, I decided to unhook the egr - so we'll see how that goes.

so, what fixed it, the injector, or the ficm, or the harness they wiggled while doing one of the repairs?

Ok...so i got the truck back at about 2:00...drove it to work, went from work to the bar to watch the Astros - pretty kick ass - then on the way home my truck went right back into John Deere mode. So I guess it's off the the dealership my truck goes again. I am gonna guess that they went ahead and replaced whatever the computer said to replace, but didn't check out that wiring harness (neither did I when I got it back) So we'll have to see what happens this time around - I'm guessing on wiring harness though.

Ok...so i got the truck back at about 2:00...drove it to work, went from work to the bar to watch the Astros - pretty kick ass - then on the way home my truck went right back into John Deere mode. So I guess it's off the the dealership my truck goes again. I am gonna guess that they went ahead and replaced whatever the computer said to replace, but didn't check out that wiring harness (neither did I when I got it back) So we'll have to see what happens this time around - I'm guessing on wiring harness though.

I hate Stealers!! I'd make a big deal about this....ask them if it is okay for you to call GM and fill them in on the wasted injector and FICM they just billed out under warranty. Maybe if these idiots didn't waste GM's money on fixes they didn't have to do, they could cover your trans and 285's without a hassle! This is an ongoing problem w/ GM stealers and it has to be fixed! My stealer just did an oil change and fuel filter change on my wifes 04 Impalla SS. Now I have oil on my garage floor? WTF...$85 worth of service and they can't do a damn oil change right. I am supposed to trust my Dmax in there? Good luck with your truck. I feel your pain!

If they are just replacing the FICM, chances are thet it will happen again... They rarely fail, and are commonly misdiagnosed. Sounds like you have a connector issue on the injector control circuit...

Engine Soon (SES) Light On with Reduction in Engine Power, DTCs P0202 and P2149 or P0207 and P2146 Set (Install Revised 90 Degree Injector Connector with Harness Support Bracket Service Kit) #05-06-04-047A - (Sep 2, 2005)
Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On with Reduction in Engine Power, DTCs P0202 and P2149 or P0207 and P2146 Set (Install Revised 90 Degree Injector Connector With Harness Support Bracket Service Kit)
2004-2005 Chevrolet Silverado

2004-2005 Chevrolet Kodiak C4500/C5500 Series

2004-2005 GMC Sierra

2004-2005 GMC Topkick C4500/C5500 Series

with 6.6L Duramax™ Diesel Engine (VIN 2 - RPO LLY)

This bulletin is being revised to update the information on the diagnostic trouble codes. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-047 (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System).

Condition
Some customers may comment on the Service Engine Soon light becoming illuminated along with a severe reduction in engine power (limp home mode). Upon investigation, the technician may find DTCs P0202 and P2149 or P0207 and P2146.

Cause
The injector connector circuits on cylinders 2 and 7 are not fully supported near the connector and are more susceptible to terminal breakage from engine vibration.

Correction
If published diagnostics lead to an injector connector, install the revised 90 degree connector and the harness support bracket from the service kit, P/N 98017958, using the following repair procedures.


Repair Procedure for Left Bank Cylinder Number 2


Disconnect the negative battery cables. Refer to Service Information (SI) for the Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure (Single Battery) and Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure (Auxiliary Battery).
Remove the left wheelhouse panel. Refer to Service Information (SI) for the Wheelhouse Panel Replacement.
Remove the left charge air cooler inlet pipe. Refer to Service Information (SI) for the Charged Air Cooler Hoses/Pipes Replacement (Left).



Disconnect cylinder number 2 and cylinder number 4 fuel injector harness connectors.



Remove the cylinder number 2 glow plug connector nut and remove the cylinder number 2 glow plug harness connector from the glow plug.



Remove the fuel injector harness bracket bolt.



Cut the tape to remove the fuel injector harness bracket and discard the bracket.



Cut cylinder number 2 fuel injector connector off the engine harness approximately 38.1 mm (1.5 in) away from the base of the connector.
Important: It is not necessary to maintain the same polarization of the injector circuits.


Strip approximately ¼ inch of insulation from both fuel injector circuits and, using the supplied Duraseal® connectors, crimp the new 90 degree fuel injector connector to the engine harness.
Use an Ultra Torch, or equivalent, to shrink the tubing and set the glue in the Duraseal® connectors.
Secure the Duraseal® connectors with electrical tape.



Position the new injector harness bracket to align with the bracket bolt hole and secure to the harness with electrical tape.
Install the new injector harness bracket and original bolt.

Tighten
Tighten the fuel injector harness bracket bolt to 10N·m (89 lb in).





Install the cylinder number 2 glow plug harness connector and nut.

Tighten
Tighten the glow plug harness connector nut to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

Connect the cylinder number 2 and cylinder number 4 fuel injector harness connectors.
Install the left charge air cooler inlet pipe. Refer to Service Information (SI) for the Charged Air Cooler Hoses/Pipes Replacement (Left).
Install the left wheelhouse panel. Refer to Service Information (SI) for the Wheelhouse Panel Replacement.

Repair Procedure for Right Bank Cylinder Number 7





Remove the fuel filter assembly bolts.



Position the fuel filter assembly out of the way.



Disconnect cylinder number 7 fuel injector harness connector and cut the number 7 fuel injector harness connector wires directly at the base of the connector.
Important: It is not necessary to maintain the same polarization of the injector circuits.


Strip approximately ¼ inch of insulation from both fuel injector circuits and, using the supplied Duraseal® connectors, crimp the new 90 degree fuel injector connector to the engine harness.
Use an Ultra Torch, or equivalent, to shrink the tubing and set the glue in the Duraseal® connectors.
Secure the Duraseal® connectors with electrical tape.



Install the new injector harness bracket to the upper valve cover.
Install the injector harness bracket bolts supplied with the kit.

Tighten
Tighten the injector harness bracket bolts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

Connect the cylinder number 7 injector harness connector.



Install the injector harness to the bracket as shown.
Install the fuel filter assembly.
Install the fuel filter assembly bolts.

Tighten
Tighten the fuel filter assembly bolts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

Connect the negative battery cables. Refer to Service Information (SI) for the Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure (Single Battery) and Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure (Auxiliary Battery).
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

98017958
Injector Connectors #2 and #7 Service Repair Kit
1

Fuel Injector Driver Circuit Codes P0201 through P0208 - keywords P0202 P0203 P0204 P0205 P0206 P0207 #PIP3238D - (Aug 31, 2005)
Fuel Injector Driver Circuit Codes P0201 through P0208
2004-2005 Chevrolet Kodiak, Silverado

2004-2005 GMC Sierra, TopKick

Equipped with 6.6 Diesel Engine (VIN 2 - RPO LLY)

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Intermittent SES or MIL light on with injector driver trouble codes P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204, P0205, P0206, P0207 or P0208 and bank shutdown trouble codes P2146 or P2149.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Complete normal SI diagnosis for the trouble codes set.
Injector circuit or injector coil tests may be normal until the engine reaches operating temperature, recheck circuit/injector resistance readings with warm engine.
Inspect for wire harness chafes on the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) wiring harness retaining bracket. This is an aluminum bracket very close to the FICM connectors. If any part of the taped portion of the harness is touching the FICM wiring harness retaining bracket, then you must look for chaffing on the wiring harness. It must be disconnected from the FICM and bent back towards the engine. Look for any chafes into the tape. If necessary peel the tape from the area and look for any chafes into the wires. Some of these chafes are very small, possibly the size of a pen tip, but could still cause injector circuit concerns.
If diagnosis is inconclusive, inspect the injector connections on all related cylinders. Pin drags and terminal tension can be checked with Kent Moore tool number J-35616-4A.
Clear trouble codes then wiggle test the related injector connectors to see if the trouble codes can be induced. If the vehicle had only injector circuit codes for P0202 or P0207 (with bank shutdown P2146 or P2149) and the wiggle test induces a P0202 or P0207 to reset, see bulletin number 05-06-04-047 for the injector connector support bracket service kit.
If the trouble codes or customer concern is induced during the wiggle test on any other cylinders (other then P0202/P0207), use the long wiring pigtail found in the service bulletin number 05-06-04-047 for repair. Carefully push back a little of the pigtail shielding that is found at the ninety degree elbow near the injector connector. The ninety degree elbow can then be removed. After removing the elbow the longer pigtail can be used to repair on all remaining injector connectors.
Note: Dealer technicians are to repair wire chafes at the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) as needed. Follow the correct SI wiring repair procedures. Insulate the harness from the aluminum retaining bracket with suitable material (electrical conduit or heater hose) so the harness will not chafe again.

Note: When diagnostics are being completed for Injector Driver Fault codes the dealer technician may notice the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) connector is wet or has a wet residue on it. The FICM connectors do have a type of dielectric grease that may be mistaken for diesel fuel. The FICM should not be replaced if this type of wet residue is found. Clean and dry the connectors as needed. No extra dielectric grease needs to be added to the FICM connectors.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

Well, this morning I went out there and checked the wiring harness...and the electrical tape that covers it up is definately worn through. So I cut back the rest of the tape, but didnt see any insulation that was worn through. The thing is that as soon as I pulled the harness off of the bracket and started the truck, it ran fine again...but then about 10 minutes later (idling) it went back into tractor mode. So I figure that there has to be some bad connectors on the harness. I just called the dealership and they are sending a tow truck to get it, and I told them about the wiring harness, they said "they'll call chevrolet this time and get them to help" I dont really know exactly what that means....

Well, this morning I went out there and checked the wiring harness...and the electrical tape that covers it up is definately worn through. So I cut back the rest of the tape, but didnt see any insulation that was worn through. The thing is that as soon as I pulled the harness off of the bracket and started the truck, it ran fine again...but then about 10 minutes later (idling) it went back into tractor mode. So I figure that there has to be some bad connectors on the harness. I just called the dealership and they are sending a tow truck to get it, and I told them about the wiring harness, they said "they'll call chevrolet this time and get them to help" I dont really know exactly what that means....

NO NO NO.

Where mine was wore thru, it was just a pinhole...look REALLY close. Did you retape everything before you started driving it? If not, that's why it went into JD mode. I needed a SINGLE STRAND of copper conductor to reach into the pinhole that was on mine to ground it out. You don't need the dealer on this one. They've wasted enough of your time already.

You need to find a dealer with a good Dmax / Allison Tech
My buddy back home is the Dmax/Allison tech at the dealer I bought it from, (and also a drinkin' buddy of mine), and diagnosed my truck from 400 miles away over the phone. Told me EXACTLY where to look, and EXACTLY how to fix it.

Yes, tape the p!ss out of it and leave the wire ties off. They just make it chafe worse.

Yeah, I just let it idle - didnt even drive it when the problem started again...and I promise I looked closely, and there wasnt anything wrong with the wires.

I just got a call from the dealership and they are going to replace the entire engine wiring harness - I'm glad I'm not in charge of that project.