Well I got the kit Friday, opened it up very, very nice and professional looking. The instructions were clear and easy to understand. Install took less then 5 mins, first impression while towing a 10k trailer with my race cars, AWSOME!!!!! :ro) :ro) Now all I need is a foam filter and my MRBP front pipe and I'll be set!

What is this one? Where can I get more info?

:nopics:

JLew:D

Its a modified gasser box. Uses the snorkles on the fender wall as well as a 4" hole near the back of the headlight on a spring. Very sweet, very easy to install. I'll get some pics up tonite......:grd:

:nopics:

So where are they????

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8842&d=1127140103

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8843&d=1127140396

KB, I don't get it. Some days I can see the pics and some days I can't. Today I can't! ARGH

KB, I don't get it. Some days I can see the pics and some days I can't. Today I can't! ARGH

DITTO!!

Complain to the mods, I have nothing to do with it.

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8843&d=1127140396

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8842&d=1127140103

If you view thes links, they should then show up. Let me know.

Hi All,

I installed a KB-modified CAI last Thursday and took a trip to North Carolina (I-81, I-77) and returned through West Virginia (I-77 to I-64 to I-81) climbing some decent mountains .... towing my 11.5k lb 5th wheel. I averaged 12.5 mpg going mostly 65mph (I purposely climbed Fancy Gap at 65mph.) Normally I would have achieved 10.5 mpg on this trip (from previous tows of the same route.)

I figured KB's modified CAI saved me $60 in diesel on this 915 mile trip .... I also installed KB's shrouds and stack seal, which kept coolant temps down (although it was cooler this trip.)

Looks nice. Out of curiosity, do you think the spring loaded flapper is necessary? I opened mine like the JK opening and sealed it off from the engine compartment and the stack so that it is open to the world behind the headlights at all times.

...and all the elements also Mitch. Not real important to you and me, but it will impact others around the country that see more rain.

The sprung door is "on-demand". The turbo pulls it open. If you come to a stop in heatquench conditons, you want that opening blocked, the temps under hood rise 100 degrees in 60 secs. It shows up on the data charts in stop-go. Pulling away from lights, or resuming uphill from a stop, this is perfect. A large unobstructed opening, even shrouded, gets hotter IAT than one that is obscured when not needed. The wind can push the door open a bit also. That keeps underhood temps out till ambient is moving into the area, displacing heatsoak.

In empty conditions, I have driven around town, and stayed within 5 degrees of ambient on a 90 degree day. Hiway driving is at ambient or 1 degree above.

In empty conditions, I have driven around town, and stayed within 5 degrees of ambient on a 90 degree day. Hiway driving is at ambient or 1 degree above.

and the results are black and white, not hype and conjecture. 102 degree day, stop-go.

STOCK IAT
CAI IAT

HERE (http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8434&d=1126385724)

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8434&d=1126385724

I took my gasser box and installed 3 inch abs out bottom. using 2 45 deg. elbows then about 1 1/2 feet of pipe drops level with bumper. I am desiding if i will in stall a 90 deg. elbow to act as a ram air. With out 90 cant see pipe from front of truck. Easy install of a plug for bad weather. Will be towing next week see how all the new modes do.

I understand your points. Guess I'll have to carry an extra airfilter in my "million dollar box" in case it ever rains or snows on a road trip. A buddy asked me if I should be worried about the head generated from the headlights being sucked into the airbox. Aw Geezy Peezy, something else to worry about now!

So does this box allow moisture to get into the airbox easier as it is pulling form inside the fender opening???

I don't quite follow how this works ont he fender side as far as air flow!!!

I undertand the flapper door though!!!

Can someoen explain??? I don't have overheating issue but I still run a Stock airbox and would like a CAI, so its either this K.B. design or a AEM Brute Force..


Help a lost guy out!!:eek:

WILL

So does this box allow moisture to get into the airbox easier as it is pulling form inside the fender opening???



I know of one member who will be on top of your question very shortly. LOL, everyone wants fame. The reality is, no cold air intake can avoid moisture altogether. Many so-called CAI are not cold at all, just hype and pretty colors

The answer is, this box is untested in the rain. I have had no reports of issues to date. Only raves for the performance and mpg enhancement

The GM fender appears to be fairly tight. The Chevy, not so tight. Each can take water obviously, if air gets in there water drops can. That doesn't mean that you will hurt anything, we drive in fog conditions and splashed water in the motor bay all the time. The object is making sure too much moisture doesn't load the element. In coming months I will look at any reports that come in for throwing codes in rain, and report that in this forum. If that happens to anyone with this box, I will ask them to try a suggested fix, or I will refund. That simple.

Mitch, you live where I do, we don't have to worry I suspect.

FYI, the correct element for our vehicle has about 110 pleats and several glue strips on the bottom of it. If you don't have this element, you are looking for trouble IMO. People are buying the incorrect replacement elements.

Update: I had one report of use in heavy rain while towing this past week. No issue.

Here is another report: Mark drives a Chevy

Hi Michael,

Today I checked the coolant level. I was able to add ~6 oz more to fill to
the rim. I noticed when I removed the cap (after the truck had been sitting
for 48 hours) I could hear the pressure release and the level in the
expansion tank changed a bit. Looks like the cap is creating a vacuum.

As for the air filter, it was a little dirty, but no more dirty than when I
installed the CAI - the filter has about 7200 miles on it now. It was not
wet or damp at all as far as I could tell. I should have checked it Friday
when towing because it rained so hard my trailer slideout seal leaked water
onto the carpeting - this has never happened before. We were driving
through the remains of tropical storm Tammy. Six inches of rain fell in
areas we travelled. There were flood warnings posted for North Carolina.

If you have any recommendations for keeping water out of the filter or
sealing my Chevy fender better from water, I would definitely try them, but
as far as your modified CAI, I saw no signs of water penetration whatsoever.

Sincerely,
Mark

Mark should check his truck for a bad head gasket or cracked or porous head. That coolant pressurization problem is what tipped me to my head replacement saga.

????????????

Today I checked the coolant level. I was able to add ~6 oz more to fill to
the rim. I noticed when I removed the cap (after the truck had been sitting
for 48 hours) I could hear the pressure release and the level in the
expansion tank changed a bit. Looks like the cap is creating a vacuum.

I was referring to that quote. It may not be a bad cap - it may be a bad head.

Oh, ok. This has evolved somewhat from the observation that many of us have apparently never had full systems

OR, we are creating so much gas/vapor in the heatup process, that we are dumping some coolant.

I don't see it as leakage issue. I have seen the cap get stuck not venting.

Off topic now

Hi All,

I believe there is a small amount of air left in my system from not being full from the start. If I were actually using 6oz a day from the start, I would have had an empty system long ago. I think what happened was my system was not filled completely (meaning the reserve/expansion tank was not full from the factory, so when I filled it properly, it was able to draw some additional coolant in to the radiator. From reading prior posts it is my understanding that the radiator coolant level is directly proportional to the level in the expansion tank when both are cold and at equilibrium. I know when the engine is hot it forces some coolant into the expansion/reserve tank and when the engine coolant cools down, the reverse happens. If there is not enough coolant in the reserve tank, then the system sucks air I would assume.

I will monitor for signs of a cracked head or bad head gasket (such as higher moisture in the exhaust, leakage from head, etc.) also just to be sure. I have not seen the truck puke coolant at this point (sure does throw lots of water on the ground from the AC though .... ;)

As for the CAI airbox, I think the greatest benefit is decreased/measurable fuel consumption and a small increase in power due to the colder/denser air being drawn in. I chose KB's because TX's was not yet available and when looking at his pictures I could understand how it operated and how his modification worked. I would venture to guess that Tx's, Vararam's and other vendors that draw from similar places would work very well also.

Normally I would build such things myself, but in this case, with all the work KB has done, I was happy to purchase his product (I could not have produced the products he does with the precision he has given the tools I have and the materials I have to work with.) It would have taken weeks for me to locate all of the material and then with a 2YO and 4YO my time to make something would have been greatly increased.

I may soon take the wheel well covering off to see how well it is actually sealed from water being thrown from the tires into the fender area (had this happen on my trailer where the water actually penetrated a seal and soaked my carpeting ....)

:)mark