Anyone know what it takes to make a kill switch(air shutoff) for pulling? And if you run a tranny blanket, does your trans run hotter pulling a trailer down the road?
Thanks,
Jason

sorry this is a stupid question...but why would you need a kill switch..?

---ben

sorry this is a stupid question...but why would you need a kill switch..?

---ben

Ben..Most pulls require them for safety reasons..If you're ever motoring down the track with the sled in tow and the chain breaks, they want to be able to shut your truck down. When a chain breaks, it looks like the truck was shot out of a cannon..:eek:

Anyone know what it takes to make a kill switch(air shutoff) for pulling? And if you run a tranny blanket, does your trans run hotter pulling a trailer down the road?
Thanks,
Jason

Also if you pop a turbocharger your engine can feed off of engine oil, rev to the moon and go boom (boom is a highly technical term for ^^'s up)

stroub safety will have a pattern for an allision bell housing around $300 for a 4.1 nylon bellhousing blanket, you do not need a trans blanket just need to cover the bellhousing and it should not effect temps at all. Tomac has been running one for awhile. the kill switch is alittle more complicated but essentially you need to remove the ignitionA or ignitionB fuse under the hood in the fuse compartment on the driverside wheel well(not near my truck to look and I can not recall off hand which one but the easiest way to find out is start the truck and remove one of them and see if truck dies) and install a long jumper that goes all the way to the back of the truck and has a removable plug completing the circuit(the plug jumps from one wire to the other) make it so it can be pulled out with a good tug but not so loose that it falls out while driving around the pits or worse yet while hooked to the sled, also install a inline fuse on your wire going out to the plug that is the same size as the fuse you removed. when your not pulling just use your oem fuse and when your pulling hook up your kill switch.

After all that typing I reread the first post and see you were asking about an air shutoff, thats even more complicated but they do not usually require them unless you are running in a mod or open class just need to kill the ignition on the dmaxs.

I believe the supplier is Stroud.

www.stroudsafety.com

Thanks bigd, you're very helpful.
Jason

Here is my air kill, it ain't cheap but I like the looks and it works great selinoid operated, I mounted a trailer break controler on the bumper that works for a quick disconect on the rear and then I added a three way swith in the cab, I can send power the rear bumper in one position, off in one position, and then I can flip it to the last position and shut the valve instantly. lets say I blow a turbo or something I can slam it shut and posible stop parts from entering the motor.


http://www.bigbaddodge.com/files/Air_shut_off_completed_not_installed.jpg


http://www.bigbaddodge.com/files/Air_shut_mounted_in_tube_end_view.jpg

BBD

Do you have pics of it installed???


Here is my air kill, it ain't cheap but I like the looks and it works great selinoid operated, I mounted a trailer break controler on the bumper that works for a quick disconect on the rear and then I added a three way swith in the cab, I can send power the rear bumper in one position, off in one position, and then I can flip it to the last position and shut the valve instantly. lets say I blow a turbo or something I can slam it shut and posible stop parts from entering the motor.

BBD

Here is the brakeaway device ion the rear bumper.

http://www.diesel-central.com/photogallery/pictures/Ad_174_2.jpg


I am looking for the installed valve photo.

BBD

Here it is

http://scottsram.homestead.com/files/air_shut_installed.jpg

There is this type too, on the intake side

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=49612&stc=1

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=49613&stc=1

last two pics didnt work. your air shut off, is that kinda like an exhaust brake deal?

I would like info on that valve, like where to get one. Pro Street requires an air shutoff next year.

last two pics didnt work. your air shut off, is that kinda like an exhaust brake deal?

Same here. The last two pics did not work (seems like their hosted on another BBS that won't allow remote linking).

I assume it's just a butterfly valve that closes to keep air from entering the engine......????? Or is it a guillotinestyle valve? It's hard to tell from the first picture, but it seems small (i.e. air inlet restriction), or is it just look that way.

Sorry for all the ????'s, but curious minds want to know :exactly:
TIA

Sorry about the last two pics there on the TDR.

Correct, mine is a selinod operated butterfly valve with a manual reset. They are made in the UK so watch out for the sticker shock, I believe mine with the tube adaptors was around $500. mine is the SVX-381 with the HAX-309 tube adaptors, and is set up to operate "energized to shut" its a 3" wich is the size of the stock cummins uptake pipe. they show them in 5" and 8" as well.

U.S. Distributer:
Stewart & Stevenson
5407 S E Evangeline Thruway
Broussard
Louisiana 70518
USA
Tel: (001) 337 837 9001
Fax: (001) 337 837 2317
E-mail: r.ronsonet@ssss.com (r.ronsonet@ssss.com)
Contact: Ryan Ronsonet / J. B. Moreno


Ask for Ryan and let him know I sent you, he will know what you want to do with it then :)

http://www.chalwyn.co.uk/index.html

BBD

i guess $500 and so bad. i have paid more for things on my truck! i like the buterfly valve better than the guillotinestyle valve.