Ok here's the scenario
97 3/4 ton Suburban 6.5TD, Boost,Pyro,Trans Temp, 3" down pipe run into 3" Duels, K&N on a Fabricated induction system.

Ok the vacuum pump is pumping 4 lbs. (bad) and in the future I'm planning on re flashing the ECM. DO I replace the pump or install a Turbo Master?
If I install a Turbo Master what to I need to do to protect my engine? LBS of boost? and what about the ECM? How do I fool it?
Thanks for the help.

Turbo dad welcome to the site, read up in FAQ stickys, and welcome note at top forum header, also better single questions rather than many shot gunned ones, TM replaces vac, set for 10 psi sustained boost without IC, can run 12-14 after IC, will need a fooler if you don't have reflash (variable or fixed resister that lowers output volt of MAP sensor to PCM), as PCM will try & control higher boost levels than what GM planned for, watch boost gauge is your best protection until you get TM set.

Do a search on boost fooling plenty of detailed info in earlier posts

After reading most of the boost fooling threads Im confused on what I need to do. I dont understand all of the acronyms and the resistor thing has me really confused.
Do you have tiem to baby sit the newby?

In my opinion, the vacuum pump is a waste of power robbing space...it takes power to turn the pump...maybe not much, but some, nonetheless

A boost fooler is quite simple. Go to Radio Shack, and for about $6 ask for a 10K potentiometer (POT) with a linear taper...simply wire it into the MAP circuit according to the diagrams posted on this site (do a search for "boost fooler") Make sure the connections are soldered and heat shrinked to avoid corrosion in the future. Mount the POT on your dash, and away y ou go.

You could put a fixed resistor in place of the POT, but would lose the ability to turn the boost down if your Exhaust Gas Temps (EGT's) start to climb too high while towing.

As for babysitting.......THE GUYS ON THIS SITE ARE GREAT...THEY'VE HELPED MYSELF, AND MANY OVERS THROUGH OUR TRIALS WITH THESE SOMETIMES TEMPERMENTAL ENGINES. THANKS A LOT TO THE GUYS/GALS OF "THE DIESEL PLACE"

Ok I know what a POTS is now and I have one on the way I also ordered a Turbo Master. Now is the Pots the only fooler Im going to need?

After reading most of the boost fooling threads Im confused on what I need to do. I dont understand all of the acronyms and the resistor thing has me really confused.
Do you have tiem to baby sit the newby?

No baby sitting, it will require some effort on your part, I said to look for earlier POSTS about fooling, using search feature as described in the welcome note, you can find a lot of information about boost fooling. Using the FAQ there is a "decoder ring" :D thread for most of the acronyms. I'm not trying to be a PITA but whole reason for FAQs & welcome notes is so newbys don't have to be baby-sat, spend some time there and if something there leaves you fuzzy (be specific about the area you don't understand) after reading all the FAQs as some blend with others; ask for clarification.

The pot you will install will have to be wired into output of the MAP sensor, again search the other posts/threads for for boost fooler, there is a schematic in one of the threads I don't recall which, also look for quantum mechanic, it was in one of his posts.

Turbo master mechanically sets waste gate, if PCM sees too much boost for a given engine speed it will code as PCM will not be able to dump excess boost like it wants to once Vacuum control is bypassed with a TM. So boost pressure via the MAP sensor output has to be "fooled" but installing resistor to lower output voltsage signal to the PCM so it won't code. Hope this helps.

PS update your signature of what kind of truck & options you are running.

Ok I got my Pots. Waiting on the TM. Looking at the diagram that I found is a little deceiving. It shows the A wire going to the first pin on the pots but where does the PCM side of that wire go? It shows cutting the B wire and the MAP side of the wire goes to the third pin and the PCM side going to the second pin.
Could some one clear this up for me I want to get it right.

I also seen another post where a gut cut the B pin and ran map side to the first post and the PCM side to the other 2 post.
Which way is the correct way?
Thanks

somebody spank turbodad, he has been asked once as well as told once to update his signature:rant: and informed as to how to do it. bad dad.:muahaha:

somebody spank turbodad, he has been asked once as well as told once to update his signature:rant: and informed as to how to do it. bad dad.:muahaha:

Hey, is that why it doesn't say where he lives, so we can't find him and do this:nutkick: or this:snipersmi or if he REALLY makes us mad, this:sheephump

:sorrysign I got a little out of control there:muahaha:

Are we happy now?

NOPE:grd:

Are we happy now?

Sorry about that guys I have alot going on right now.
So now that you know where I live can we get my truck fixed?

Are we happy now?

Sorry about that guys I have alot going on right now.
So now that you know where I live can we get my truck fixed?


OK, now I'm laughing. What was the original question??:joke: :lol:

Serious now. In my opinion, vacuum pump has to go. I have some experiments to run and then mine is history. You put a 10k ohm resistor in the map circuit if you want to run more boost without the engine light coming on. Don't do that without gauges first. You can also set the turbomaster for stock boost levels and you won't need to mess with the map.

I agree.

Dump the pump! Nature abhors a vacuum, and you should too!

Tim

I agree.

Dump the pump! Nature abhors a vacuum, and you should too!

Tim

Me too!):h