Thanks for the advice... if it breaks I guess it needed to be fixed anyway right? ):h I guess I need to back it down to 45 until I have the coin for an upgrade then. Between this and trying to build a home theater I don't think i'll ever have much cash in hand. :)

Hopefully fingers or Kennedy can confirm.

It looks like the connector to the boost sensor is about 6 inches long and then plugs into another connector that is part of the big wire loom that comes to a Y. If so, it it pretty easy to cut some of the tape holding the connector to the wire loom, pull it up enough to grab, disconnect and plug in the boost stick. This can be done without removing the A/C compressor or needing a screwdriver/grabber to fish it into place on the boost sensor. It also looks like you wouldn't need the extension cable either. All that you need to remove is the resonator cover.

Can anyone confirm if this is correct?

BS will not plug into that connector.

I got my Boost stick installed today...I did not take the A/C compressor of..I did use a long needle nose pliers and a flat head screwdriver..Start to finish took me about 30 minutes..I have been driving my truck now for 16,000 miles with the predator on 100 and never limped the tranny..I must have a strong one cause i do beat the piss out of it daily..I normally see about 22 pounds of boost now i see about 28 and between shifts 25..So i would say i got around 5 more pounds of boost..Stock Tranny is still learning the new power so shifts suck right now, but i am not sure if it can handel that..I might have to take the stick off or lower the tune until i get my stage v..No codes and i have a CA emissions truck..

I did notice that the boost gauge goes up to 22 fast then stops and clims again to 24 or 25 then stops then goes to 28 is that normal? That was the only thing that looked weird to me..I though maybe i didnt have it plugged in all the way or maybe a pin was out of wack on the sencor but it all looks good by the eye..Any ideas???

sean

After driving now for a couple days since I installed the BS, I'm impressed. I'm noticing how quickly shifts are happening due to the faster acceleration. Defuels are more noticable. I've been running the Superchips on High Perf. since I installed it. I've had a few turbo barks, or bursting which I never had before. Mostly when I get on it in 5th. I took the program down to Tow Perf to see if the bursting goes away. Haven't manually calc'd milage but DIC dropped quite a bit, 2-3 MPG, hopefully thats no ligit, I was hoping for the opposite. I also noticed as someone else did that the engine temp is running about 5 deg lower than normal, a tic below 210. No EGT guage yet so I can't say what they look like. Money well spent, looking forward to more testing.

Any ideas on why the bursting in 5th? Mine's bad enough that I might have to take it back off. I can't tow with it in 5th, going up hills, it will cough all the way up a hill. This is with predator on 45.

I'm assuming it's not getting enough fuel. Dumb question, but will a higher tune fuel it more and make it go away, or would that just make it worse??

Thanks.!:)

it seems my turbo is barking abit when shifting. i have put 200 miles one it since i put it in. my truck is stock except the BS. I am thinking it might be relearning

Just installed your Boost stick.A bit of a stickler to connect.But what an improvement.Truck shifts smoother.Maximum boost 32-34. Cruising @ 65mph 5-7lbs increase from stock.Stock was about 4lbs.Egt possibly 200-300% cooler.Fuel milage seamed to increase 2-3mpg.This is all with Predator on (40).As it was before b/s.Have not pulled 5th wheel yet.No lites/codes.

I drove mine again today for 20 miles or so. Perhaps it is relearning because the tranny seems to be shifting better now though like some others I am getting a lot of turbo barking (guess that sounds like brief rapid popping?) and the engine cuts out/in at peak rpm right before 3-4 & 4-5 shifts. Feels really strange so hopefully it will learn that too? I'm keeping it easy until I confirm if this is harmful or not. I don't want to report normal driving EGT's yet since I need to compare it during my normal route to work (at same spot, speed, OAT, etc) so it's objective. Overall it does feel stronger especially during normal acceleration. Hope to resolve that soon - before I take it to the dyno this Sat 29th. I would like to test stock then w/Hyper L3 then w/BS. Everything else stock. Sorry if my articulation isn't as succinct as those more experienced.

hey madmax
does it feel like it is surging because i get that when i turn up my stack but i would say it feels more like a fuel issue i'm going to add a kenndy lift pump system here very soon

BS will not plug into that connector.

thanks for the quick response, guess I'll be going for the A/C removal or coathanger method. Should have guessed it couldn't have been that easy!

Oh man. I got mine installed today. My seat-o-pants meeter stayed pegged at awesome during my hole test drive. I am still running a stock tranny so I am careful not to turn the attitude up to high... On my 180 mile round trip to work and home I will be able to give it a true testing. Also by the end of the week I will know if there is any MPG increase since I monitor that like a hawk. I did notice a LOT less smoke and the turbo is most definitely spinning up faster(sounds like a 737 under the hood when I push on the throttle). Now I need to get me a mechanical boost gauge so I can see the real boost numbers and get the tranny upgraded so I can play in 5/5. I will have to stop by Mike L's shop and start talking to him about some upgrades...

Fingers... My hats off to you... Great job.
John thanks for the prompt shipping.

Hey all,
I reported earlier on the instal and first impression of the BS. On a little trip I took this weekend with about 25 miles of in town and rural driving mixed with 125 miles freeway at 75mph plus steppin on it a few times to get away from traffic, and a couple of pretty fair mountain passes, I got 17.543209 mpg hand calced. where as I used to get around 16 mpg on the same kind of trip before. On the return trip was from gas station to freeway to gas station, 125.4 mi. back over the passes, Cruise set at 75mph, I got 18.379012 mpg. Which is about 1.5 mpg better than I have gotten on this trip at the same speed before. Egt never went over 1000 going up the passes. I really think the BS will help more with the stop and go driving as you are using less pedal to get going and burning your fuel more efficently. The above was with the truck lightly loaded and Predator on 65.
I have not had any turbo bark or any other symptoms except more POWER!
I just love my truck!
Thanks again Fingers & Kennedy!

Dennis

CHP777:

no, it's actually a cough or if it was an old carb'ed car, i'd say it was a backfire through the carb. I'm going to unplug tonight and see if it goes away. Might check my connections again, altho I'm positive it's working, cause you can tell the power increase, and the turbo really sings now.

i'm kinda lost on it. I might end up taking it off till spring when the temps warm up and see if that helps. It's in the 30's-high 40's temp wise here, and the IAT's were at 49 when it was coughing. Maybe that has something to do with it. I'm going to try a higher tune tonight just for the heck of it and see if that helps.....

maybe a bad stick? Seems like i'm the only one having this problem.??

Installed the BS and took it out for a drive. After letting it warm up, I nailed it and yes, it does hit harder all through the gears, up until it"coughs" (bursts) as was described earlier. I removed the EZ and was disappointed in the performance difference without it. Installed the EZ again. Same result.

Not a good thing to be doing to the turbo/engine so I am at this time inclined to remove the BS until this is resolved.

From what you have descibed, it sounds MAF related. Your air box mods may be messing up the airflow across the MAF sensor.

For those of you getting "bursting" symptoms with the BS: Please check in and let us know what you are running for an air intake. Initial indications are that the extra air flow is causing problems with the MAF sensor on some modded systems.

The BS is not causing the "bursting".

Stock intake, EDGE EZ level1, TTS cat back exhaust. 2005 California truck.

When I remove the BS, the Bursting disappears. I have been romping on my truck for a few months with the EDGE and exhaust with no bursting. When the BS was installed the bursting began. Removed, it goes away. My truck does not like the BS with the present setup, which is pretty mild compared to others.

Bursting? Is that like a POP... POP... when hard on the pedal? If it is then mine started doing it after installing the BS. It has never done it before even on the 100 hp Predator tune. I am running the stock intake. I even had it happen once on the 65 HP tune. Now, I am not complaining,
unhappy, or even sure it's a BS problem. This is just to give you guys information. I ran the 100 HP tune yesterday for probably the last time until I get some tranny help and if I have the defination correct it bursted everytime I hit hard on the go pedal, mostly around shift points but even in between shifts a couple times. On the 65 tune it happened once and that was when I was on it as well. I also noticed that my RPM's changed on the trip home which I believe either the tire size is off after changing back and forth on tunes or I may have hurt the tranny playing yesterday. I checked the tire size and it still shows what I inputed but the speed feels off to me. I will check again today and reload the whole program if necessary.

When I remove the BS, the Bursting disappears. I have been romping on my truck for a few months with the EDGE and exhaust with no bursting. When the BS was installed the bursting began. Removed, it goes away. My truck does not like the BS with the present setup, which is pretty mild compared to others.



Contact me via telephone or email and we'll arrange a refund.

CHP777:

no, it's actually a cough or if it was an old carb'ed car, i'd say it was a backfire through the carb. I'm going to unplug tonight and see if it goes away. Might check my connections again, altho I'm positive it's working, cause you can tell the power increase, and the turbo really sings now.

i'm kinda lost on it. I might end up taking it off till spring when the temps warm up and see if that helps. It's in the 30's-high 40's temp wise here, and the IAT's were at 49 when it was coughing. Maybe that has something to do with it. I'm going to try a higher tune tonight just for the heck of it and see if that helps.....

maybe a bad stick? Seems like i'm the only one having this problem.??


I will assume that you have a functional EGR system? What you describe sounds like a minor turbo "bark" when the EGR activates.

Fingers: Mine bursts too - see previous posts. No mods except Hyper on L3. I tried it again last night going up a small grade and the bursting happened more frequenq but in lower gears (1st-2nd-3rd)..so worse under a load. I havent had the opportunity to reduce the levels to make sure it's the BS. In addition, I can't honestly say it has not happened before without the BS but may be more pronounced with it. I really want this thing to work and willing to try another tuner if that will help.

Not sure if i have busting or not, BUT i have to revise my review...

Now i have MORE smoke with the BS!

Also, i threw a few codes with the FS and BS But cleared them and havent come back,

THe one other wierd thing is that my truck will sometime rev to pass the redline by maybe 2-300 rpm. Is that normal or bad for my truck?

200-300 RPM isn't an issue. But tell me more about getting more smoke than before? When, what is your boost reading, ect ect.....

Fingers: Mine bursts too - see previous posts. No mods except Hyper on L3. I tried it again last night going up a small grade and the bursting happened more frequenq but in lower gears (1st-2nd-3rd)..so worse under a load. I havent had the opportunity to reduce the levels to make sure it's the BS. In addition, I can't honestly say it has not happened before without the BS but may be more pronounced with it. I really want this thing to work and willing to try another tuner if that will help.


Humor me and unplug the EGR to see if it still bursts. The SES light will come on, but ignore it for the test runs.

200-300 RPM isn't an issue. But tell me more about getting more smoke than before? When, what is your boost reading, ect ect.....

I just see more smoke, when im cruising and gas it hard it just seems like im blowing more smoke than before also stock intake if that matters. It seems, not thicker just more, but maybe im looking at it more than before also, i will unplug the BS and confirm, also dont have boost guage.

i am having the same thing on my completely stock truck with the studdering and turbo bark. i am going to run it till wed when it goes back to the shop then pull it off and see how much it does it. it seemed only when i took my foot off the gas alittle while going up hill. only happenned twice. i dont have the egr blocker in there right now so i know that the blocker is not causing it.

i am having the same thing on my completely stock truck with the studdering and turbo bark. i am going to run it till wed when it goes back to the shop then pull it off and see how much it does it. it seemed only when i took my foot off the gas alittle while going up hill. only happenned twice. i dont have the egr blocker in there right now so i know that the blocker is not causing it.

Put the blocker back in would be my suggestion.

I guess what we are trying to look at here is the possibility that when the EGR activates, it causes a rapid drop in the drive pressure which results in turbo bark or surge. As we push boost psi higher, we get to apoint where this can occur much more commonly.

Anybody having these issues hapen to have a v2.02 Predator beta on hand? If not, I could send one for trial.

my plan is to do that as soon as it does not have to go back to the dealer to get the coolant flushed i am going to put it back

Hey Fingers, thanks for the reply. Yes, my EGR is still functioning. I'll disconnect it tonight and report back. Do I just unplug it while cold and that should do it?

I'll leave it on the 40hp tune for now to not enter any thing new into the equation. As far as the air box goes, it's stock with the TxC cold air mod only.

Mine isn't as bad as others are describing now, only does it in 5th gear while over about half throttle. However, it makes towing a load impossible, cause it coughs all the way up a hill.

Thanks for the help, I want to make it work, the power is really smooth and nice.!:D

Just pull the EGR plug with the engine off. Cold is better so you don't burn your hands.

Installed the BS today,only took 10 minutes with the right tools,,no did not take off the compressor. Only drove a couple of miles but,,,,,quite a difference. I have a boost guage and at 3/4 throttle saw 32 pounds. Seems like an increase of approx 5 lbs at lower throttle and 10+ on the top end.I bought the extension but did not use it so far. You really don't need it in my opinion. I am running Predator,new program 2.02 at 65hp and stock airbox with magnaflow catback.

i get a lot more bursting now with the bs but as lon as i keep the predator on 40 hp it will only do it very little and not all the time in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear at 3,000 r's and up , as bobo posted way back here i do believe that it has something to do with outside air temp because my truck acts the same as his to the t and i'm not running any lift pumps. i'm more than happy with my bs i can run 5/5 and 40 hp all day long (not towing of course) and never even look at egt's

Thanxs fingers and jk for your time and effort,
fingers if you ever need any local testers give me a shout

Fingers:

Fixed!

Thanks a ton.........guess i'll be buying a finger stick also......;)

o, and ROASTED a 80's monte carlo SS on the test drive....was fun seeing him go down in a cloud of smoke......

OK. I did the "hard part" in. I replaced the plugg with the BS connector near the A/C compressor but where does the other end go to? I assume the two inch long stock connector isn't the right area as the BS connectors don't fit there. help?

The BS goes between the boost sensor and the connector you unplugged from the sensor.

Hi Fingers- Then I must have a unique plug on my CA emission vehicle. It definitley won't fit the connector the other end came out of. I have pictures of it. Where can I send them to you? I have pics of the little three / four inch original plugs next to the boost stick plugs and they are definitely different. Can I get an email address to share these pics with you? Any help would be appreciated. Mike- can you PM me please?

I also have a CA emissons truck and mine went in with no problems.. I just had trouble getting to the connector. But nothing strange on a CA truck.

Edit - If you do an advanced posting of your message you can post the pictures...

Hi Fingers- Then I must have a unique plug on my CA emission vehicle. It definitley won't fit the connector the other end came out of. I have pictures of it. Where can I send them to you? I have pics of the little three / four inch original plugs next to the boost stick plugs and they are definitely different. Can I get an email address to share these pics with you? Any help would be appreciated. Mike- can you PM me please?

OK, so you unplugged the gray connector like in my picture. Now plug it into the black connector on the boost stick. It's just like a household extension cord. The plastic dart is in place so that you cannot reverse the plug.

OK Call off the dogs. I didn't realize you had to utilize the existing three inch long connector. I tried to replace the three inch long stock connector. Which was incorrect. Everything fits fine. Sorry.

Fingers / Kennedy,

First and foremost, great job with the product, price and service.

I just installed the BS yesterday afternoon. Before restarting, I checked for any codes with the Predator. There were none. Took it out for a test ride and got up to 30 PSI a few times before backing out of it. Great improvement over what I'm already getting from the Predator. The Predator is v2.0 and is set to 65HP. I also have the AFE Stage 2 intake kit. FYI, I cleaned and oiled the PG7 filter about a month ago. I haven't touched the MAF sensor since the initial install of the AFE (almost a year ago). After I got back, I checked again for codes. Again, no codes.

I wanted to pass this along since some folks are having P0101 codes thrown, and some folks think this may be related to the AFE. Also, I'm running the stock exhaust (with cat). I was wondering if the restrictions from the stock exhaust are keeping the airflow down, and therefore - no codes. The question would be if I added 4" cat-back system, would that increase the chances for MAF sensor codes?

Brian

Fingers / Kennedy,



I wanted to pass this along since some folks are having P0101 codes thrown, and some folks think this may be related to the AFE. Also, I'm running the stock exhaust (with cat). I was wondering if the restrictions from the stock exhaust are keeping the airflow down, and therefore - no codes. The question would be if I added 4" cat-back system, would that increase the chances for MAF sensor codes?

Brian

I dont know if this helps at all but i had gotten that code like 3 times and the truck would buck and pop..I also have the AFE stage 2 with a full 4 inch exahust..The filter didnt seem to dirty to the eye but i ended up cleaning it and re- oiling it, and i have not got that code again..This might help some but i dont know to much about these things yet..Still in the learning curve..

sean

I wanted to pass this along since some folks are having P0101 codes thrown, and some folks think this may be related to the AFE. Also, I'm running the stock exhaust (with cat). I was wondering if the restrictions from the stock exhaust are keeping the airflow down, and therefore - no codes. The question would be if I added 4" cat-back system, would that increase the chances for MAF sensor codes?

Brian

I have the AFE Stage 2/w Pg-7, 4" cat delete exhaust, Fingered and Blocked egr. I have thrown no codes what so ever, no bursting, only smooth power.

Dennis

OK Call off the dogs. I didn't realize you had to utilize the existing three inch long connector. I tried to replace the three inch long stock connector. Which was incorrect. Everything fits fine. Sorry.

I knew you'd get it. You already had the hard part done. Just outsmarted yourself!

Got mine installed on Saturday. So far it works great and I am pleased. I have noticed that the tranny will stay hung up in some gears for a lot longer. Almost as though the trailer tow is engaged. Has anyone else experienced this?


Also, I removed the bolts that hold the AC pump and just lifted on the back of the pump to gain additional clearance. the front of th pump acted as a hinge wich meant that I did not even mess with the serpentine.

got mine friday and works great on my CA lly wow thanks for the tire smoken fun

MIne is working flawlessly as far as I can tell... Level 2 from now on though, as i tempted fate with Level 4 again and it shut me down quick!!!!

Definately pulls a level higher than selected compared to pre- BS....

I run Edge J/A w/ 4" and EGR blocked!!!

Fingers / Kennedy,

First and foremost, great job with the product, price and service.

Also, I'm running the stock exhaust (with cat). I was wondering if the restrictions from the stock exhaust are keeping the airflow down, and therefore - no codes. The question would be if I added 4" cat-back system, would that increase the chances for MAF sensor codes?

Brian

I don't think exhaust will hurt a thing, in fact, a full system should be fine, and will yield the best performance results. I haven't seen any corrective action taken by these codes, and nor SES illumination so even if it does set one it's not that big a deal. Some LB7 trucks did this also.

I have the AFE Stage 2/w Pg-7, 4" cat delete exhaust, Fingered and Blocked egr. I have thrown no codes what so ever, no bursting, only smooth power.

Dennis

ditto but Ive got a 5" with no cat or muffburger.

Just wanted to say that I do finally have a few of these on hand, and should have plenty in by Friday. Finally stock on hand!

Humor me and unplug the EGR to see if it still bursts. The SES light will come on, but ignore it for the test runs.

Are you saying that with my FE9 truck I should get a CEL if I unplug my EGR? I unpluged my EGR and no CEL:confused:. I have the barking but it seemed to go away when I unpluged the EGR.

FE9 will not set SES typically.

Alright guys i must be having a problem here but from all the pictures that i have seen non of them come out and say what conector is the right one. so i took a few pictures of my truck please feel free to use them. and please tell me what conector is right. or am i missing it all togeather.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/homeskillet86/DSCN0563.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/homeskillet86/DSCN0562.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/homeskillet86/DSCN0564.jpg

The plug in the first pic is the right one its a pain in the @ss to get to! Remote claw and long screw driver and a lot of beer!!

Question I can't get my boost readings above 22 psi? I do notice that my turbo spools up faster and there seems to be little or no turbo lag, I have a lot of seat of pants power which is great. I do have the barking but I had that before the boost stick is something wrong or do I need a programmer other than edge to get 30 psi? Just wondering

John Kennedy is the s***! Thanx a lot!!

Increased boost will NOT be measured by databus reading devices because we are altering the signal output at the sensor.

Unless you drill/tap for physical psi you will not "see" the boost increase...

The pic on my web site shows the plug with the harness pried back so it can be accessed.

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/docs/booststickinstallation.pdf

Ok now I understand, Either ways its an awsome product and well worth the money!!!:ro) :ro) :ro) :ro)

Increased boost will NOT be measured by databus reading devices because we are altering the signal output at the sensor.

Unless you drill/tap for physical psi you will not "see" the boost increase...

i dont understand how removing the ac compressor is going to make it any easyer the coolent pipe is still in the way.

When removing the compress you can actually get you hand in there and uplug the connector. It gives you a lot of space, I did it after to make sure the plug was in the connector fully. Yes the coolant line is still in the way but you get a lot more space!!!

i dont understand how removing the ac compressor is going to make it any easyer the coolent pipe is still in the way.

Look at the pics in this post.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=754022&postcount=249

They show you where the connector is with the compressor out.

Skillet, none of your pics actually show the connector. It would be under the return pipe near the bottom of your first picture.

I did not remove the compressor and installed the BS in approx 10-15 minutes. Having the proper tools for the job makes it quite easy.

so its not the plug infront of the turbo air inlet.

It is almost directly under the coolant return pipe.

Fingers
I have read posts till Im blue an I have not seen what I wanted, probably missed it somewhere. My question is how much will it help on take off. Im not looking to go racing but to help this dog I just got. I swear I can out run it on foot across the intersection, what a dog compared to my LB7. It has 18k an I asume it is broke in.
Geno

Fingers
I have read posts till Im blue an I have not seen what I wanted, probably missed it somewhere. My question is how much will it help on take off. Im not looking to go racing but to help this dog I just got. I swear I can out run it on foot across the intersection, what a dog compared to my LB7. It has 18k an I asume it is broke in.
Geno

Geno, Fingers ran his truck stock for a little bit recently with and w/o the stick and not surprisingly said something similar. It does help with a stock truck, but....

Based on your sig, you have no tuner? The BS really likes the E/A...
:muahaha:

Only replying as I know he is on the road and might not be checkin' in as frequently for a few days.

geno, get a Predator and a BS and you will want no more, at least for a while!:)

geno, get a Predator and a BS and you will want no more, at least for a while!:)

Plus get rid of EGR huh

See, it's started already!:):):)

oh and of course you will need the fingerstick, uhh oh then your going to need a lift pump, but you gotta get your tranny upgraded for the nitrous and stacked tuners, and don't forget about some traction bars to plant the rear end.

It's definately a drug. DAMN expensive drug to 30-40g's just to get you hooked. hell crack aint even that expensive.

Fingers
I have read posts till Im blue an I have not seen what I wanted, probably missed it somewhere. My question is how much will it help on take off. Im not looking to go racing but to help this dog I just got. I swear I can out run it on foot across the intersection, what a dog compared to my LB7. It has 18k an I asume it is broke in.
Geno

You are not going to see much increase, if any, from a no boost launch stock. You just don't have the fuel. With a mild tune, you will really brighten up. The extra air makes a huge difference if you have the fuel.

Rick has more experience than most anyone using the BS on a stock truck empty and towing. I defer to his opinion there.

Has anybody been towing with the booststick? What kind of performance can I expect when towing using E/A when towing?


Boyd

Try the Edge EZ thread. RickDLance tows just about daily...

hey i have a ca truck and i spoke to soon today it threw A p0101 CODE WHAT NOW?

I have experienced the turbo "bark" or backfire after I installed the BS. It seems that I am not the only one having this problem. What are others doing to prevent this. I notice from a half pedal excelleration inbetween the higher gear shifts. One time it did it "barked" multiple times between the 3-4 shift. What to do know? I really like the extra turbo whine. Stock tune + BS

powerco02, unplug the EGR while the truck is cold and ENJOY!!

No barking with EGR unplugged but it feels much slower. Removed FS and boost is back down to 25 from 32 ;(

Decisions....should I wait for Predator 2.02 or get the Finger Stick and Blocker. How do I order the FS & Blocker???

Quick note:

SES light= likely performance issue

No SES, but history DTC= not an issue in most cases

powerco02, unplug the EGR while the truck is cold and ENJOY!! will this not defeat the purpose of the fingerstick? I am expierencing somewhat the same at part or half throttle passing someone on the street. Already in fifth.

Can not speak for anything but Ca emissions trucks.. If you unplug the EGR while the engine is cool. On the first start, the truck will perform like it was ment to and there will be no bark from the turbo. Now shutdown and start the truck again and you get an SES light. Truck will now perform like you just strapped 10 tons to the bumper. This a bulls#$t :mad: limp that GM did so you can drive the truck to the stealer and get the failier fixed. Because no one would disconnect it on purpase. Remember in good old Ca, we take pride in robbing your truck of its performace in that name of cleaner air. Hence the need for the FS to fool the ECM. I just got mine today. Thanks Fingers for the fast turn around.:ro)

You don't need a FS...Predator has the EGR disable built in on the 2.02 version.

You don't need a FS...Predator has the EGR disable built in on the 2.02 version.

Where did you get this information? Not name calling, don't get me wrong. That would be a HUGE federal crime. I would not think it likely that Diablo (or any tuner manufacturer) would mess with altering oem emission standards.

Wonder if any vendor selling this stuff here has been contacted about it. That is, anything that is sold with the intent to defeat a federally approved emissions configuration.

"Off road use only" ):h

Interesting... does it only cause the ECU to ignore the codes, or does it actually disable the EGR, negating the need for a plate (and thus, perhaps avoiding the oil-collection mess described in another thread)?

The Predator revision does not disable the EGR system. It simply alters the diagnostic function.

The Predator revision does not disable the EGR system. It simply alters the diagnostic function.

Meaning no codes?

Yep, couresy request made by yours truly...

Very nice.
So now we need an '06 EGR blocker plate... someone posted in the LBZ forum that they deleted their cat, but the blocker plate didn't fit.

OK follks. Dispite my attempt to test over a range of vehicles. I missed the fact that all of the testers had bypassed the EGR in one way or other. My bad.

It appears that with the EGR functional, the turbo will make a bark sound when the EGR opens. This is because of the higher drive pressures caused by the BS to make the higher boost. This high pressure vents into the intake at a much higher rate than the ECM is expecting. The codes (P0101) appear to come from the ECM seeing the MAF flow drop to near zero (cause the Exhaust gasses are flooding the intake instead of clean air from the intake filter.)

The cure is to either unplug the EGR, or put on a blocker plate and Finger Stick.

I just ordered mine. . . man I missed out on some good stuff. . . .I didn't even need to read this whole thread. .

1. Fingers made it.
2. JK endorses.

'nuff said.

Sold.

Unplugging will set a code correct? Do we get the FS from Kennedy? I will admit I am too lazy to look that up. ;)

The Predator revision does not disable the EGR system. It simply alters the diagnostic function.

My EGR used to run. I could hear it...now w/ new Pred. it don't. I think the Pred. shuts it off.

OK follks. Dispite my attempt to test over a range of vehicles. I missed the fact that all of the testers had bypassed the EGR in one way or other. My bad.

It appears that with the EGR functional, the turbo will make a bark sound when the EGR opens. This is because of the higher drive pressures caused by the BS to make the higher boost. This high pressure vents into the intake at a much higher rate than the ECM is expecting. The codes (P0101) appear to come from the ECM seeing the MAF flow drop to near zero (cause the Exhaust gasses are flooding the intake instead of clean air from the intake filter.)

The cure is to either unplug the EGR, or put on a blocker plate and Finger Stick.



To add to this:

With functional EGR The Predator 2.02 will bark the turbo on some trucks. The VA will also bark on some trucks. The Juice 1.0 would bark on some trucks.

Basically, if you add enough boost, the EGR does not like it.


VA bark: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50601

I pm'd Fingers but figured I should post my results here in BS central as well.

If you didn't know better you would never know the BS is on my truck. Very very smooth, more thrust on top, most noticeable thing is turbo whistle that I never had before and I like that. If I get a chance I will make some runs with the gtech pro rr to see what the power gain is roughly. I am very pleased with the product and feel safe with Kennedy and Fingers backing it.

No turbo bark for me.

If you never intend to remove the BS you can skip the extension. If you think you will EVER take it out and put it back in then the extension will be worth more than the price of the stick!

.

I have also found the truck seems to run much smoother than before the BS. Not exactly sure how to describe it but there is an obvious improvement.

My truck did not bark for the first week. Now on acceleration 3/4 throttle ,I have the barking. I have stock air box,Predator 2.02 on 60hp. Would it be possible to restrict the air flow at the egr with a washer,smaller opening. Would something like this work?????

To add to this:

With functional EGR The Predator 2.02 will bark the turbo on some trucks. The VA will also bark on some trucks. The Juice 1.0 would bark on some trucks.


Mine also barked pretty good with Juice 1.2. After I unplugged the EGR, bark went away, and everything is back to normal.
Thanks for the help everyone.

i dont understand why anyone would want the egr working a little bit if at all? who needs that crap in their motor?

Won't you get a DIC message with the EGR removed/or disconnected???

yes you will. but you can get a fingers stick for around 25 bucks and the problem is solved. i think if you were to block it off with a washer with a hole in it you would still get a code. the amount of air going through the egr would either be insufficient to make the egr work properly, or insufficient to satisfy the parameters the computer expects to get from the egr sensor. so you would most likely still get a code.

OK where is the EGR on our trucks,,is it a sensor that you unplug????

How does this boost stick work with the Bank's Six Gun? or can you run both at the same time?

I found the EGR and unplugged it. Also went into the Predator programmer and modified the program and turned off the EGR. So all should be well now.

Installed Boost Stick today. What a pain.. Fired it up, took it out on the road, and really felt a difference. Plus, it does appear the EGT's have decreased. Like it a lot...

Ed

Unplugged the BS, tired of the turbo bark. I really noticed how much difference the BS made. I am going to plug the BS back in and unplug the EGR.

I also found that unplugging the EGR caused SES light after 2 cold starts. I re plugged the EGR and wiped the code with my Predator. So far it's working fine. I did turn off the EGR with the Predator programmer..

i've got the preditor, the egr block off plate, the Fs, and the BS. for the sake of ease in the event a trip to the dealer is necessary, which would be the best configuration to keep from throughing codes and be able to put back before a dealer visit.

i haven't thrown any codes relating to the egr or mas. would i be better off removing the block off plate and unplugging the egr? for ease of simply plugging back in if i'm gonna see the dealer for any reason? no tools required to plug the egr back in.


David

i put the egr blocker back n the truck and it looks like the turbo bark is gone.

Installed the Boost Stick Today.

I can hear the Turbo at all speeds. NICE :) !!!

It feels a little quicker off the line.

I only drive it about a mile or so, but the sound put a big grin on my 10 year old daughter's (she likes hot rods) face.

I know it has already been said, but anyone installing this thing should definitely remove the plastic cover (has 6.6 on top of it) from the top of the intake and the A/C Compressor. It makes the install very easy.

Thanks to Fingers and Kennedy for a great product:ro) .

Have we found out if it is good to go on an '06 lly yet??

Current BS will not work on '06's

will the boost stick work with the old version edge juice attitude 1.0 or do i need to upgrade?

Got my B/S installed a few days ago. I LOVE IT! What a difference.:ro)
Thanks Fingers.

will the boost stick work with the old version edge juice attitude 1.0 or do i need to upgrade?

Work? Ues, but not as well as it could. Works much better with the update.

Got my B/S installed a few days ago. I LOVE IT! What a difference.:ro)
Thanks Fingers.

It's about time he got that thing in. I gave it to him, what, 2 weeks ago?

Been away from the 'Place' for awhile - good to be back. Been reading with great interest about the BS.
Got it figured, ya gotta have Finger Stick & EGR blocker plate.
Just think, you could've named it "Boost Adjust" or "BA" ):h

guys i am setting a P0101 on my truck. i have the northeast emissions because i bought it in boston.....it seems to only come since i put the egr back on

You are not running a BS are you?

yeah i am i saw you repsoned to my other post....i have been running it for a while now with no problems and then i put the FS and egr blocker in and in about 4 days it pops on..

Finger Stick connections. Hate to say it, but best bet is uninstall and reinstall. Are they soldered? While it is off, make sure the code goes away. (you will get 401s and 404s) The 101 should go away and stay away. If not, there have been a few bad engine harnesses out there.

that is what i am thinking....i used tapes in there but wouldnt throw the EGR codes if it is not right? i can pull it off no problem though so i will give that a shot tomorrow...it is not going to hurt anything right

Shouldn't hurt

ok i will check over the connections is there any one wire i should be looking at or do you think it is the BS that is causing the light

with this code i am having a HUGE lose in power.

Good money is on just a bad connection. But anything is possible.

i am betting on that too...i have the taps on there now...iam just going to solder everything and hide it good....i have to go back to the dealer and have the coolant flushed and i dont want them to see the code or anything else.

My FS is soldered and I'm still getting P0101s with the BS.

hmm....so the question is.....is the BS causing it or is the FS......i need to figure out which it is going to the dealer for another coolant flush and i dont want them to see it

IF it is the BS it will only set it on hard accels. The FS will set it right away at idle.

it set it as i was pulling on to the high way...what i will do is clear it then see when it comes back

Still think it is a finger stick connection.

i think so too

My FS is soldered and I'm still getting P0101s with the BS.


Before I forget. Cleaning the MAF sensor is also in order. Face it, you are working it much harder now than you ever have.

what am i checking on the FS to make sure it is working

well i soldered everything and found the ground and the power wire to the MAF were almost not attached. soldered them took a drive down the street and the light went off

Before I forget. Cleaning the MAF sensor is also in order. Face it, you are working it much harder now than you ever have.

What's the best way to clean it? Carb cleaner? (Engine OFF of course). I have the stock airbox and stock paper element.

electric contact cleaner is best.

Pull the MAF sensor and it should be dry. Spray with contact cleaner OFF the engine and reinstall when dry. If your filter is over oiled it will probably oil up again...

guys any idea what would cause P0101 and P0299 on light throttle. all the wires are solddered at this point and i know everthing has a tight connection. it seems to happen ever week or so and will go off on its own if i let it

What intake are you running? Is the MAF sensor clean and dry?

truck is stock execpt the BS and EGR delete

from what i see yes it is clean and dry

:eek: I have had my boost stick in for about two weeks now with my Edge EZ! This is the best money I ever spent! I was not impressed with the Edge till I got the boost stick, it makes the truck accelerate much better a must have for any LLY, it kicks a$$!!!!!!:exactly:

It sure cuts down the smoke too!