DO you have a Tuned Delete LML?

What setting are you running while towing?

I have a couple friends who always leave their trucks on Hot - 2004-2008 Fords and Chevy's - they swear by Hot for better economy and drive normal and take it easy .....even towing, and watch their EGT's and parameters closely......

I don't know anyone with a LML doing it yet.........

So i was curious what you all were running on when towing?

Thanks!!

Its up to you. Watch the EGT and don;t get on it to pass for instance. It may not take much to slip the Allison with a heavy load behind it and running hot.

Brian

I tow with the setting on hot and like the op said just watch your egt's, you should be fine. Typical trailer loads have been 8k with the occasional 10-12k load. All my towing has been in FL so pretty flat roads.

I will say one thing , it's hard to keep this thing under 70mph it tows like a champ. :D

For towing id turn it down.

No point in abusing your tranny.

For towing id turn it down.

No point in abusing your tranny.

Which setting would you suggest?

DO you have a Tuned Delete LML?

What setting are you running while towing?

I have a couple friends who always leave their trucks on Hot - 2004-2008 Fords and Chevy's - they swear by Hot for better economy and drive normal and take it easy .....even towing, and watch their EGT's and parameters closely......

I don't know anyone with a LML doing it yet.........

So i was curious what you all were running on when towing?

Thanks!!

Keep this in mind (and I speak only on emissions equipped street legal trucks). Towing your load (trailer, boat, tractor, whatever), requires XX force to move XX mph. Changing the tuning on your truck does not, and cannot change the work required to move that load. The only thing it CAN change is how quickly and efficiently your vehicle can perform said work. Running a hotter tune means nothing more than you have the potential to do damage. Your truck exerts the same amount of energy either way to pull that trailer if you maintain the same speeds and driving style.

Higher horsepower tuning will usually net you a better economy gain because of the increased timing values. To meet NOX emissions, many of the new diesel motors run very mild timing values. At the sacrifice of using a little more SCR, tuning companies can advance the timing tables and gain slightly better economy. More timing is more cylinder pressure and more torque, until you cross a fine line of course.

Just a little info to help in your decision, as I believe that sometimes guys get way too biased in one direction when deciding what tune to run. It is all in the end user, and how you control the skinny pedal. :D

towing wise wild is about the most I run. unless you are towing at max gvw then i would go down to the mild tune. on the wild setting towing 12k i see 1400 egt pretty easy and i don't push it much past that. auto back off is at 1450 just play it safe

dont worry bout killing trans running on "hot" setting because the rail will drain so bad that you will be lifting the "skinny pedal" to recover rail presure

:)And by the way keep an eye on the boost presure when the rail drops...:)

Keep this in mind (and I speak only on emissions equipped street legal trucks). Towing your load (trailer, boat, tractor, whatever), requires XX force to move XX mph. Changing the tuning on your truck does not, and cannot change the work required to move that load. The only thing it CAN change is how quickly and efficiently your vehicle can perform said work. Running a hotter tune means nothing more than you have the potential to do damage. Your truck exerts the same amount of energy either way to pull that trailer if you maintain the same speeds and driving style.

Higher horsepower tuning will usually net you a better economy gain because of the increased timing values. To meet NOX emissions, many of the new diesel motors run very mild timing values. At the sacrifice of using a little more SCR, tuning companies can advance the timing tables and gain slightly better economy. More timing is more cylinder pressure and more torque, until you cross a fine line of course.

Just a little info to help in your decision, as I believe that sometimes guys get way too biased in one direction when deciding what tune to run. It is all in the end user, and how you control the skinny pedal. :D


What he said! I tow (about nearly 26k lbs total when I have water and all) on Wild (also DD on Wild). I never go WOT towing (never need to) and I try to ease of at the shifts. Even climbing the big grades around here EGTs are nice and safe. I've peaked in the mid 1200s a few times, but just for an instant. Even going up the Grapevine at 60mph I was staying around 900-1000 using 4th.

-TJ

What he said! I tow (about nearly 26k lbs total when I have water and all) on Wild (also DD on Wild). I never go WOT towing (never need to) and I try to ease of at the shifts. Even climbing the big grades around here EGTs are nice and safe. I've peaked in the mid 1200s a few times, but just for an instant. Even going up the Grapevine at 60mph I was staying around 900-1000 using 4th.

-TJ

Time to invest in an accurate sensor and guage.

Time to invest in an accurate sensor and guage.

I have a pyro correctly placed in the manifold (NOT reading the factory pyro) reading it on a H&S BlackMaxx. Why wouldn't that be accurate? I don't go WOT towing (no need to) but I'm sure I could build a bit more EGT standing on it up a hill w/ my trailer - but who does that? I can easily accelerate from 50-65 up the biggest grades I've come across yet while keeping EGTs in the mid-1200s. Seems like that makes for a happier truck.

-TJ

Time to invest in an accurate sensor and guage.

Agreed.

CntrlcalDmax and Moss - what are you saying his readings should be at?

CntrlcalDmax and Moss - what are you saying his readings should be at?

x2. My readings are inline with my other buddies with D'max'es and similar trailers too. Mine are a bit lower than theirs, but I'm running no cat and a full 5" vs. most of them on 4" with a cat.

-TJ

x2. My readings are inline with my other buddies with D'max'es and similar trailers too. Mine are a bit lower than theirs, but I'm running no cat and a full 5" vs. most of them on 4" with a cat.

-TJ

On a LML 5" ?? Custom ?? I helped a friend with his and after raising the transmission there is barely enough room to get the 4" pipe in from down tube back..... after that there is room for 5".

I have only seen 5' available on lml from cat section back..... and 4" section from downpipe to where DPF section is..........

I also talked to a custom fabricator and they said 4" delete pipe through cat section is all that fits and then you can go 5" the rest of the way.....

again i am speaking of an LML - I am unfamiliar with the others

On a LML 5" ?? Custom ?? I helped a friend with his and after raising the transmission there is barely enough room to get the 4" pipe in from down tube back..... after that there is room for 5".

I have only seen 5' available on lml from cat section back..... and 4" section from downpipe to where DPF section is..........

i have the 5 inch mbrp and it is 4 inch then to 5 like stated

CntrlcalDmax and Moss - what are you saying his readings should be at?

Stock and towing 14,000 +/- it is very easy to get in the 1,400 range without pushing too hard on 6% grades. Ideal conditions in the flats and running 65-70 1,100 degrees is pretty normal; add a tad of adverse wind and you should see mid 1,200 easily. With your additional fueling and timing variance, plus your additional weight if you are seeing the numbers you cite, then I think there is little doubt that there is a problem with your instrumentation.

On a LML 5" ?? Custom ?? I helped a friend with his and after raising the transmission there is barely enough room to get the 4" pipe in from down tube back..... after that there is room for 5".

I have only seen 5' available on lml from cat section back..... and 4" section from downpipe to where DPF section is..........

i have the 5 inch mbrp and it is 4 inch then to 5 like stated

It's all AFE. The Downpipe itself is definitely not 5" but the rest is IIRC. I didn't actually measure any of it though, it's just the stuff AFE offers.

Stock and towing 14,000 +/- it is very easy to get in the 1,400 range without pushing too hard on 6% grades. Ideal conditions in the flats and running 65-70 1,100 degrees is pretty normal; add a tad of adverse wind and you should see mid 1,200 easily. With your additional fueling and timing variance, plus your additional weight if you are seeing the numbers you cite, then I think there is little doubt that there is a problem with your instrumentation.

If you're 100% stock then there is a huge difference. The factory tunes are biased towards not producing soot since that requires me regens, which tends to lead to hotter EGTs. On top of that you have the restrictive, kinked downpipe, a cat, and a DPF to push your exhaust through. The more restrictive the exhaust (in general) the more EGT.

My numbers are pretty similar, if a tiny bit lower than most of my buddies with modded D'max trucks. Maybe H&S will weigh in here. I know the "HOT" tune is supposed to see mid-1400s, but I haven't run that yet. I can get into the mid-1200s with no load just staying WOT through a few gears. But with a load I'm never WOT. Up big grades if I let the truck lug in 5th or even lug 4th on the really big ones the EGTs start to climb fast, but I downshift it a gear (or two when appropriate) and the EGTs drop right back down. Maybe I'm just a lot more cautious and overly easy on the truck when towing... but I drag a lot of weight.

-TJ

It's all AFE. The Downpipe itself is definitely not 5" but the rest is IIRC. I didn't actually measure any of it though, it's just the stuff AFE offers.



If you're 100% stock then there is a huge difference. The factory tunes are biased towards not producing soot since that requires me regens, which tends to lead to hotter EGTs. On top of that you have the restrictive, kinked downpipe, a cat, and a DPF to push your exhaust through. The more restrictive the exhaust (in general) the more EGT.

My numbers are pretty similar, if a tiny bit lower than most of my buddies with modded D'max trucks. Maybe H&S will weigh in here. I know the "HOT" tune is supposed to see mid-1400s, but I haven't run that yet. I can get into the mid-1200s with no load just staying WOT through a few gears. But with a load I'm never WOT. Up big grades if I let the truck lug in 5th or even lug 4th on the really big ones the EGTs start to climb fast, but I downshift it a gear (or two when appropriate) and the EGTs drop right back down. Maybe I'm just a lot more cautious and overly easy on the truck when towing... but I drag a lot of weight.

-TJ

I've done the big exhaust and no cat route before and saw little if any difference in EGT's; with a tune, yes definately higher. Still believe you have a problem based on your earlier post of temps; hope I'm wrong.

myabe a poll is in order to find out what egts people are running with out and with a load........

It was my understanding a free flowing exhaust woud reduce EGT'S

I've run 4" exhaust on three previous trucks. A Kennedy on the LB7, and MBRP on the LLY & LBZ. All made less than 100* difference. I'm not aware of any changes to the LML that would make the EGT's less than preceding models. On the LBZ I ran many different timing plots to try to reduce EGT's. It made some difference and I finally settled on one that was slightly more than 50/50. The LB7 was tuned with a Hot Juice and the LLY & LBZ were EFILive tuned. The LLY was right at 500 RWHP and while towing in the highest HP DSP5 setting I could easily pass 1400*. The LBZ was tuned specifically for towing and was a modest 380-400 RWHP (estimated). It would still see 1400* on a longer climb like Baker Grade or running through the Rockies.