Recently my 06 3500 van with the 6.6 Duramax, while warming up started missing, clearing, and missing repeatedly, and is still doing it and is undriveable. It won't go over a couple miles an hour.
Several days earlier I installed new fuel filters and primed the system as per the manual. It ran just fine.
I originally started a post on the Duramax second generation part of this forum. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4463361#post4463361
The question came up about the CP3 high pressure fuel pump, if they are even in the van models. I have no idea. I do know from this forum that this model has a lift pump somewhere between the fuel tank and filters.
Could that be causing the problem?
A friend who mechanics for a pipeline contractor advised me to start back at the filters and install new ones.
I'm not real quick to want to crawl under the truck in this cold weather, and am trying to gather more info before I get horizontal.
Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.
GUS

I would get under there and remove and check the filter install. It may be sucking air and causing your issue.

Just like Joey said check your filters since you just changed them. I read your other thread and it sounds like you have some other issues as well. You should not ignore check engine lights as it might start out as a small issue then turn onto a bigger one. Get your batteries in good working order and make sure the charging system is good. You have 1 glow plug that needs to be changed. What was the temp sensor code ?

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. With my van down I've been forced to use my pickup for work, just not enough secure space, I've got to get van back up and running.
I ordered new filters and will start there, and am hoping it's nothing more serious.
When I get it driveable I'm going to get it to a local auto electric shop to check out the electrics.

The temp sensor code was PO115.

Happy New Year
Thanks Gus

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. With my van down I've been forced to use my pickup for work, just not enough secure space, I've got to get van back up and running.
I ordered new filters and will start there, and am hoping it's nothing more serious.
When I get it driveable I'm going to get it to a local auto electric shop to check out the electrics.

The temp sensor code was PO115.

Happy New Year
Thanks Gus

I would look at the o rings at the filters as sometimes they don't stay put when you install the filters.

Before completely changing the filters I would unscrew them and look them over real good.

The new filters arrived and I installed them yesterday, bled it out and vroom, vroom, running like a clock. Although I can't see anything wrong with the others. Only thing I did different was to lightly sand the angled mating surface on the water seperator as it shows signs of corrosion creeping in.
Maybe that was the problem. If so that was an easy fix. Thanks for the encouragement. I saved the old filters but will probably not ever use them.
Now to get to the root of the starting problem. It seems that the relatively new batteries are loosing their charge or maybe they are just no good. It starts right up when I put jumper cables to it.
How much amp draw if any should I expect between one of the battery terminals and it's cable, with the other battery disconnected? The charging system seems to be OK judging by the dashboard volt meter. It starts right up after it's been run a while, but usually wont start again next morning.

Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.
GUS

Its a pain but I would start with getting your batteries tested at just about any chain store.I had corrosion issues with the outside battery cables/connections and my van was only using one battery, that wont cut it when the glow plugs and intake heater stay on in colder weather.My outside battery wasn't getting charged or used and quickly killed the inside battery.This showed up last year and I didn't feel so bad as they were the original oem batteries,5 years on diesel batteries on a van that sat on the dealers lot for 11 months when new.That was the only day my truck didn't show up for work lol.

Check your cables for corrosion like Big Windy said and make sure all grounds are clean and tight. I would not go off the dash gauge. Have the batteries and charging system tested. Do you have anything extra like cell phone charger, XM, inverter, etc that is drawing power when the van is not running ? Get that glow plug changed also.

The batteries are about 2 months old. The original batteries died last winter. I repalced them with Walmart batteries, a big mistake I now know. Less than 7 months later I was getting the dead battery thing. At that point I claened all the terminals again. I finally pulled them out and returned to Walmart, both batteries tested dead cells. They "cheerfully" replaced them (they have a 3 year free replacement guaranty) and now here we go again.
I guess the first thing is I've got to get the "new batteries can't be bad" idea out of my head and pull them out and have them tested. Truth is I don't want to put Walmart Neverstart batteries back in. I've never had batteries go bad that quick in my life (I"ll be 64 tomorrow). I've not had good results from their lawnmower batteries, or the marine duty battery I put in my camper. I'm going to start by buying a couple of good ones, Interstate maybe.
One thing I can think of is the starter being finicky or possibly doesn't have a good ground. I thought of that when I changed the batteries last time, I even loosened and retighted the one bolt I could get at.
My Ford 7.3 lost a starter due to a rusted thru ground strap between the solenoid and starter body.
Thanks for the replies, I'll get back after I change the batteries AGAIN.
GUS

Yesterday I pulled the lower battery and unkooked the pos. on the upper.
I get a smalll spark between it and the term on the battery, so it is drawing current when everything is off. My VOM shows about 1 amp.
Which brings me back to the question, how much if any current should be being drawn?

GUS

•Check and record the current reading.
•Note the battery reserve capacity, amp hour rating. Refer to Battery Usage.
1.Divide the reserve capacity by 4, amp hour rating by 2.4.
2.Compare this to the multimeter milliampere reading taken in the previous step. The parasitic current drain should not exceed this number.

Example : If a battery has a reserve capacity of 100 minutes, (60 A/H) the current drain should not exceed 25 mA

Your Vehicle: 2006 Chevy Truck Express 3500 V8-6.6L DSL Turbo VIN 2




















Vehicle » Starting and Charging » Testing and Inspection » Component Tests and General Diagnostics » Electrical Drain/Parasitic Load Test

Notes
















Electrical Drain/Parasitic Load Test











BATTERY ELECTRICAL DRAIN/PARASITIC LOAD TEST

TOOLS REQUIRED
J 38758 Parasitic Draw Test Switch

DIAGNOSTIC AIDS

•Be sure to rule out any possible obvious influences, such as customer error or aftermarket equipment.
•Customer driving habits, such as regular short trips. This does not allow enough time to properly charge the battery. Refer to Battery Description and Operation.
•Verify that the battery and charging system are in proper working order. Refer to Battery Charging (Non-HP2) and Charging System Test. See: Battery ChargingSee: Charging System Test
•A battery discharging for no apparent reason while the vehicle is parked can be caused by an intermittent draw, such as a module waking up, or a continuous draw, such as a dome light or stuck relay.
•Some systems and modules such as OnStar(R), and regulated voltage control (RVC), if equipped, are designed to wake-up, perform a task, and go back asleep at regular intervals. Refer to Body Control System Description and Operation in Computer/Integrating Systems for the system or modules description and operation.
•Remote keyless entry (RKE) will wake up due to an outside input. Refer to Keyless Entry System Description and Operation in Keyless Entry.







•The battery run down time will vary depending on cold cranking amperage (CCA) and reserve capacity (RC). If the CCA and RC are higher, then the battery run down time would be longer. If the CCA and RC are lower, then the battery run down time would be shorter. The graph below indicates roughly how many days a 690 CCA battery with at 110 min. RC (60.5 AH ) starting at 80 percent state of charge will last with a constant current draw until it reaches 50 percent state of charge. Differences in battery rating and temperature will affect the results.

IMPORTANT: The battery specification listed is a generic specification. Refer to Battery Usage when testing the battery.

CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.

NOTE :

•Do not turn the parasitic draw test switch to the OFF position with the engine running. Damage will occur to the vehicle's electrical system.
•The test switch must be in the ON position when removing the fuses in order to maintain continuity in the electrical system. This avoids damaging the digital multimeter due to accidental overloading, such as a door being opened to change a fuse.

IMPORTANT: The switch knob (1) on the J 38758 is marked ON and OFF. When the switch knob is in the ON position, the circuit is closed and electrical current will pass through the switch. When the switch knob is in the OFF position, the circuit is open and electrical current will not pass through the switch.


1.Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal.
2.Install the male end of the J 38758 to the battery ground terminal.
3.Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position.
4.Install the battery negative cable to the female end of the J 38758.
5.Turn the J 38758 knob to the ON position.
6.Road test the vehicle and activate ALL of the accessories, including the radio and air conditioning. This may take up to 30 minutes .
7.Park the vehicle. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove the ignition switch key.
8.Connect a 10A fused jumper wire to the test switch tool terminals.
9.Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position. The current now flows through the jumper wire.
10.Wait 1 minute . If the fuse blows, install an inductive ammeter and go to step 20.
11.Remove the fused jumper wire.
12.Set a digital multimeter to the 10A scale.
13.Connect the digital multimeter to the test switch tool terminals.
14.Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position. The current flows now through the digital multimeter.
15.Wait 1 minute . Check and record the current reading.
1.When there is a current reading on 2A or less, turn the J 38758 knob to the ON position. The electrical current will now pass through the switch.
2.Then switch the digital multimeter down to the 2A scale for a more accurate reading when the J 38758 knob is turned OFF.
16.Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position. Wait 15 minutes for most vehicles.
17.Check and record the current reading.
18.Note the battery reserve capacity, amp hour rating. Refer to Battery Usage.
1.Divide the reserve capacity by 4, amp hour rating by 2.4.
2.Compare this to the multimeter milliampere reading taken in the previous step. The parasitic current drain should not exceed this number. Example: If a battery has a reserve capacity of 100 minutes, (60 A/H) the current drain should not exceed 25 mA .
19.If excessive current drain is not found at this time and there are no other apparent causes, complete the following:
20.Using the MIN/MAX function of the digital multimeter, monitor the parasitic drain overnight or during the day. This will determine if something has been activated during that time frame.
21.When the vehicle has an unacceptable amount of parasitic current drain, remove each fuse one at a time until the current drain falls to an acceptable level. This will indicate which circuit is causing the drain. Refer to Power Distribution Schematics in Diagnostic Aids to diagnose exactly which part of the suspect circuit is causing the parasitic drain. In some cases a non-fused circuit or component, such as a relay, is the cause of excessive parasitic current drain. NOTE: The test switch must be in the ON position when removing the fuses in order to maintain continuity in the electrical system. This avoids damaging the digital multimeter due to accidental overloading, such as a door being opened to change a fuse. IMPORTANT: Removing fuses, relays, and connectors to determine the failure area may wake up modules. You must wait for these modules to go to sleep or use the sleep function on the scan tool.
22.Repeat the parasitic current drain test procedure after any repair has been completed to make sure that the parasitic current drain is at an acceptable level.
23.When the cause of the excessive current drain has been located and repaired, remove the J 38758.
24.Connect the battery negative cable to the battery negative terminal.