My '95 has been flashing the CES light at me for the past 40-50 miles. It comes on for 10-20 secs then out. It will do it 3-4 times on a 10 mile trip. Truck runs perfect through it all.

I finally got a chance to check the code, all that is in there is a 35. Last time I had a 35 it was air in the fuel lines, I'm sure that all is well there this time though.

Where should I start looking? I have been having trouble with my charging system - batteries dead after 3-4 days of sitting. Could that cause it?

:help:

Have you cleaned the battery connections??????

The batteries and alternator were all new 6 months ago, but when we went on holidays I left my cell phone charger plugged in for 12 days and when I got home she was stone dead. I charged it up but it still goes dead after 3-4 days sitting. I either have a short somewhere or I wrecked the batteries.

your phone charger would not kill your batteries for at least a couple of months. If you get the batteries load tested then you'll know if they are at fault or not.

PMD causing Short CTIME is an unlikely scenario. It happens, but not very often.

Are you 100% sure that you don't have air in the fuel supply or a weak supply pump?

The most likely problem is the IP itself. Fuel Solenoid components wear, poppet valve spring gets weak and the poppet valve stroke needs to be reset. An overhaul is probably what it needs.

Can I get away with just the solenoid itself, or will the whole pump need rebuilding? The pump has about 120000km on it.

I will check the fuel supply tomorrow.

OK, the light is on 80% of the time now at highway speeds. Is it ok to drive this thing or should I get it in to get checked ASAP. What is going to happen? Truck is still running perfect.

Please don't tell me this is the original IP on this engine....This sounds like it's getting worse. You may want to try to add a 1 quart of 30W oil (or your metric equiv..) to your fuel tank. See if that "loosens" up your solenoid if it's sticking and dragging. That's only experimential, and not a long term "fix." Worth trying.

Click below for diagnostic check list. Cut and paste the information to this thread if you can. The "answer key" is the second post on that thread and gives you more information on each line item. The list will go over all the questions we would ask, and keeps you from having to wait for answers with posts asking more and more questions. This gets you closer to a diagnosis, and being on the road quicker. Thanks!

OK, My apologies to the group, I did the lift pump test tonight out of desperation and she died almost instantly. Slip the tranny in drive and hold the ignition and the lift pump runs 100%.

I will get a new OPS tomorrow.

Note to self: dont take anything for granted on these damn trucks!

Thanks guys

Oh, and this is pump #2 on this truck, replaced about 120,000km ago

Lift pump one of the weak links for sure-:t

OK, My apologies to the group, I did the lift pump test tonight out of desperation and she died almost instantly. Slip the tranny in drive and hold the ignition and the lift pump runs 100%.

I will get a new OPS tomorrow.

Note to self: dont take anything for granted on these damn trucks!

Thanks guys

Oh, and this is pump #2 on this truck, replaced about 120,000km ago

What exactly did you do on this test. I don't get it. If you pulled the plug from the lift prmp and the engine died, how does that mean that the OPS is faulty?
didn't you just un-power the lift pump when you pulled the plug?

I also just went through the code 35 thing, I replaced the pmd, New Heath isolator system on skid plate and replaced the short wiring harness on top of IP that Heath recomended. cleared the codes and have'nt had any problems yet>>>>

Code 35 was a PMD/FSD for me as well.

The lift pump test consists of opening the brass valve on top of the thermostat housing. Then one of two things will happen, either fuel will pump out of the hose attached to the valve (good), or the truck will die (bad)

This problem I had progressed to the point of the CES light on 100% of the time, then it started random stalling. Pull over, let it sit for a bit and it would fire back up. Bought a PMD and I am back running again.

However, I am still fighting the charging system gremlins, I have cleaned and redone all the battery connections both pos and neg and all grounds on the truck (must be a dozen!)

Thanks
Slapshot

Damn thing died tonight, no codes


Filled out checklist

1.Lift pump test - pass
2.Service Engine Light - off
3.Model year 95
3a. Odometer reading 247000
3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced: inj pump at 117000km, new lift pump, OPS (now protected by relay)
4.Do you have any engine codes? Yes and No. None since PMD change
5.If you do have engine codes - what are they? Were 35
6.Air Filter condition (visual check) good, K&N
7.Fuel filter condition freshly changed
8.Condition of Battery terminal connections: cleaned and tightened, many times
8A.Known condition and age of the batteries. new in april
9.Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? no
10.Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? no
11.Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? no
12.Have you used the block heater, and does this effect engine starting? yes and yes
13.During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? no
14.Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? no
15.Turbo check out - pass/fail - not performed, but truck has good power, and no smoke
16.Do you have an EGR on the engine? No, F engine code
17.Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD. 2500hd
18.Indicate fuel that you are using: #2 Diesel, #1Diesel
19.Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list. yes, cant remember, a lubricant in my bulk tank
20.Please indicate geographic region you are in: Canada
21.Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? PMD changed 3 days ago, was code 35 with intermitant stalling. Now truck stalled and wouldnt start for two hours, batteries weak again, charged batteries and truck started and run perfect
22.Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better. 3" straight pipe exhaust
23.Upon unscrewing the fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? yes

I think I have another bad PMD? Also, I found the battery cable spacer under the positive cables on the RH battery to be in poor shape, cleaned for now, will replace

Help if you can please
Slapshot

Have you checked the engine ground to vehicle on the passenger side rear of engine for continuity. I had a similar stalling condition a few years ago and the solution was to add another ground from the engine to the frame. I used a section of welders cable but any 4 guage wire should work.

As to your discharge problem, if you flattened the batteries one or both may have been to deeply discharged to hold a full charge. You could have them deep cycle tested to determine this.

Good luck

#23 - unscrew your fuel cap and drive around. See if it still stalls, betcha 4.99 dat's yer problem....

Well guys, I have exhausted all my options. The truck will run for 10-15 seconds then die.

I will be calling the tow truck tomorrow. Thanks for the assistance.

Slapshot

I guess no change with #23 then eh?

No, but I seem to be able to hear the lift pump louder now, I think I will leave it loose.
I will update the group when I get this resolved.

Thanks again